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MCOE
PRESENTED TO THE
LIBRARY OF THE
UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO
BY
THE HONOURABLE
JOHN B. AIRD
CHANCELLOR
UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO
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(From a Crayon Drawing at Woltord, Devon )
THE DIARY
OF
MRS. JOHN GRAVES SIMCOE
WIFE OF THE
FIRST LIEUTENANT-GOVERNOR OF THE PROVINCE
OF UPPER CANADA, 1792-6
WITH NOTES AND A BIOGRAPHY
BY
J. ROSS ROBERTSON
AND TWO HUNDRED AND THIRTY-SEVEN ILLUSTRATIONS, INCLUDING
NINETY REPRODUCTIONS OF INTERESTING SKETCHES
MADE BY MRS. SIMCOE
TORONTO
WILLIAM BRIGGS
1911
Copyright, Canada, 1911, by
JOHN Ross ROBERTSON.
AN ACKNOWLEDGMENT
The writer gratefully acknowledges Ms debt to the many persons in
Canada and elsewhere who have shown a kindly and personal interest in
the collection of data and of illustrations for this volume. It would not
have been possible to present so much in the line of information and of
illustrations in tJie volume without the aid of these friends.
Many portraits connected with the early history of Canada, and much
of the information, have been generously supplied by His Excellency the
Governor-General, Earl Grey; Mrs. .John Kennaway Simcoe, of Wolford,
Devon; Dr. Arthur Doughty, Archivist of the Dominion of Canada; Mr.
L. P. Sylvain, Assistant Librarian of the Library of Parliament, Ottawa;
Mr. Avern Pardoe, Librarian of the Legislative Assembly, Toronto; Dr.
G. H. Locke, Chief Librarian of the Public Library, Toronto; Mr. T-
O'Leary, Curator of the Chateau de Ramezay, Montreal; and Miss Janet
Carnochan, President of the Niagara Historical Society.
Grateful acknowledgment for many portraits connected with the earlier
history of Canada, and much of the information presented, is extended to
Messrs. J. Ashbridge, J. 8. Carstairs, J. E. Featherstonhaugh, ^Emilius Jar-
vis, E. M. Playter, S. H. Townsend, J. 8. Cartwright, K.C., A. Olaude Mac-
donell, M.P., A. McLean Macdonell, K.C., Walter Read, K.C., H. Crawford
Scadding, M.D., Col. George Shaw, C. C. James (Deputy Minister of Agricul-
ture, Ontario) , Mrs. Stephen Heward and Mrs. Robert Sullivan, of Toronto ;
Messrs. J. S. Brierley, Hertel La Rocque, H. Ryland Low, J. W. Molson,
W. H. Whyte, Sir Edward Gordon Johnson, Bart., W. D. Lighthall, E.G.,
David Ross McCord, K.C., Miss Gertrude Coffln and Mrs. Henry J. Lows
of Montreal; Dr. H. J. Morgan, and Mr. Errol Bouchette, F.R.S.C., of
Ottawa; Philippe B. Casgrain, K.C., and Mr. L. Lemieux, of Quebec;
Messrs. J. G. Elliott, Olark Hamilton, Abraham Shaw and Mrs. J. Maule
Machar, of Kingston; Messrs. Charles E. Britton and Charles Macdonald,
of Gananoque; His Honor Judge Herbert S. Macdonald, of Brockville;
Messrs. W. E. McKeough and Sydney Stephenson, of Chatham; Messrs.
William Johnson McKee and Francis Cleary, of Windsor; Prof. A. Mac-
mechan and Rev. C. W. Ternon, of Halifax; F. J. French, K.C., and Mr.
Edward Jessup, of Prescott; Andrew F. McCallum, C.E., Hamilton; Mrs.
George Macbeth, London; Miss Mary Servos, of Niagara-on-the-Lake ;
Messrs. James H. Coyne, St. Thomas; James B. Sheehan, Dunnville;
K. G. Thomson, Norwood; A. F. Hunter, Barrie; C. H. Hale, Orillia;
William Forbes, Grimsby; W. R. Hickey, Bothwell; A. Courtney King-
stone, St. Catharines; A. C. Casselman, North Bay; Robert C. Givins,
Chicago; Peter A. Porter, Niagara Falls, N.Y.; Basil Hamilton, Wilmer,
B.C.; A. H. Askin, Walkerville; C. M. Burton, Detroit; J. A. Macdonell,
K.C., Alexandria; A. E. Holland, St. Eleanor's, P.E.I.; A. E. C. Holland,
Wallace Bridge, N.S.; Mrs. E. Vosburgh, niece of the late Reverend
Prebendary Sadler, of Honiton, Devon; Miss H. E. Macaulay, Exmouth,
Eng.; Hector Sinclair Fraser, Inverness; Mrs. Arklay Fergusson,
Ethiebeaton, Scotland; Mr. A. M. Broadley, Bridport, Eng.; Mr.
B. 0. Pearce, Portland, Dorset, Eng.; Prof. Rushton Fairclough, Stan-
ford University, and Mr. Thos. H. Gwillim, San Francisco, California;
Ian Robert James Murray Grant, of Glenmoriston, Inverness-shire, Scot-
land; Mme. Falret de Tuite, Pau, France; the British Museum and College
of Arms, London, Eng.; Miss Maude Givins, Toronto.
vii
PREFACE
THE early history of Upper Canada has been usually sought for
in constitutional documents and State papers. The social life of
the period is recorded principally in the few private letters which
have survived a century. To this scanty fund of information it is
to be hoped that the diary of Mrs. John Graves Simcoe, the wife of
the first Governor, will make an interesting addition.
This record is the simple recital of her daily life in the pioneer
days when Niagara was the centre of military, civil and social life
in the new province, and York, the future capital, could scarcely
count a score of habitable dwellings outside the primitive barracks
that the Governor had erected within the few acres of ground where
still stands the Fort the Old Fort as it is familiarly called in
these modern days. Yes, when Navy Hall, on the banks of the
Niagara River, was the first Government house of the province and
an attractive home, full of welcome for visitors, official and unofficial.
The original manuscript of the diary, of which this volume
embodies the only copy, has been carefully transcribed by the kind
permission of Mrs. Simcoe, of Wolford, the Simcoe estate, near the
old town of Honiton in Devon, so well known to womankind for its
manufacture of exquisite lace. Mrs. Simcoe is the present lady of
the manor, and widow of the late Captain John Kennaway Simcoe,
R.N., Justice of the Peace for the County of Devon. He was the
only son of the late Rev. Henry Addington Simcoe (1800-1868)
of Penheale in Cornwall, who was the third son of General Simcoe.
Captain Simcoe died at Wblford in March, 1891.
As a general rule entries were made in this record day by day
and the writings mailed every week to Mrs. Hunt, a lady who had
undertaken the charge of Mrs. Simcoe's four daughters, Eliza,
Charlotte, Henrietta, and Caroline, all under seven years of age, who
remained at Wolford. Sophia, born in 1789, and Francis Gwillim,
born in 1791, accompanied the Governor and his wife to Canada.
The diary was commenced on the 17th September, 1791, nine
days prior to Mrs. Simcoe's departure from Weymouth for Quebec,
on the "Triton," man-of-war. The last entries are on the 16th
October, 1796, when Governor Simcoe and his wife again arrived in
London.
My annotations, instead of being arranged and placed in the
.conventional form as footnotes, are incorporated with the text of
the diary following the entries to which they belong. The notes
are so voluminous that, if given at the foot of each page, they would
be pages in advance of the text. The reader will, therefore, have
PREFACE
the advantage of reading first the text and then the note which
accompanies it. The few brief notes that appear in parenthesis
throughout the actual text are principally from memoranda made
by Mrs. Simcoe in connection with the small maps that form part
of the diary.
The illustrations, except where otherwise stated, are reproductions
of water-colors, pen sketches and pencil drawings made by Mrs.
Simcoe on her outward-bound voyage, and during her residence in
Canada and after her return in 1796 to her old home in Devon.
The originals of these drawings are nearly all at Wolford. But
thirty-two, in sepia, are in a portfolio in the Royal Library in the
British Museum. This library was given by George II. to the
Museum, and with the gift the Royal privilege of receiving gratui-
tously a copy of every book copyrighted in the British dominions
passed to the Museum. After his return to England, Governor Simcoe
presented these drawings to His Majesty King George III. Some
of them are copies of sketches made by Lieutenant Robert Pilldngton
(afterwards Major-General ), one of the staff, while on various excur-
sions with the Governor. The inscription on the title page of the
portfolio which contains these pictures reads: "Thirty-two views in
Upper Canada by Mrs. Simcoe, presented to His Majesty by Governor
Simcoe, with a sketch of Upper Canada, drawn on bark." These have
been carefully reproduced. Other water-colors of the collection which
have so faded that they could not be satisfactorily reproduced have
been redrawn, while the original pen-and-ink sketches and pencil
drawings are in facsimile.
Notwithstanding its excellence, the value of the art work of Mrs.
Simcoe lies not so much in its merit as an exemplification of good
color and pencil work, but in the fact that it gives to present readers
of Canadian history faithful pictures of places and scenes in Upper
and Lower Canada from 1791-6, which we would have lost absolutely
had it not been for the gifted hand of the wife of the first Governor.
"Were it not for her work, we would not have views of Toronto
Harbor at the end of the eighteenth century. We would not be able
to contrast the quiet of the harbor and its surroundings in 1793,
when it was the home of the aborigine and the haunt of the wild
fowl, with the commercial activities of to-day. We would not have
a picture of the Mohawk Village on the Grand River near Brantford,
which, with the exception of the Mohawk Church, has passed away ;
nor of the early days of the Niagara and Kingston settlements that
were then and are now important places in the history of the Province
of Upper Canada.
Her sketches of places on the route from Quebec to York, in and
about Niagara, and her copies of Lieutenant Pilkington's sketches in
the Georgian Bay district, must also add much to the interest of the
reader. One of Mrs. Simcoe's best efforts is a large water-color of
the Falls of Niagara, made during her many visits to this favored
spot. It adorns the walls of Wolford.
x
PKEFACE
To the diary I have appended the journal of John Bailey, who
for over thirty-seven years was in the service of the Simcoe family
at Wolford. He entered the Simcoe household in the autumn of
1802, when a lad twelve years of age, and after the death of General
Simcoe in 1806 he continued in the service of Mrs. Simcoe for about
two years. He then went to sea for a short time, but once more
wore the Simcoe livery from 1818 to 1850, when his mistress died.
In her travels in different parts of England and Wales never
once did she neglect to have Bailey look after all arrangements for
her comfort, and act when desired as her coachman. His opinions,
his reverence for Mrs. Simcoe, his devotion to the family, mark him
as a man of more than ordinary intelligence. It is most refreshing
to read his narrative.
The writing of the biography of Mrs. Simcoe entailed much
research. Every facility was courteously afforded me by Mrs. John
Kennaway Simcoe. I can never sufficiently thank her for her
unwearying efforts to help me in my quest concerning not only the
life of Mrs. Simcoe, but also that of General Simcoe, whose biography
will appear in another volume.
Nothing has ever been published concerning the esteemed and
talented wife of the first Governor of Upper Canada. In presenting
this record of her life my hope is that it not only may be read with
pleasure, but also find a place on the bookshelf of all who take in-
terest in the pioneer days of the province that started its pace in
the making of history one hundred and twenty years ago.
Toronto, August, 1911.
Xi
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I.
MRS. SIMCOE HER ANCESTORS. PAGE
The early days of Elizabeth Posthuma Gwillim The home at Old
Court Her father a distinguished officer The Gwillims of noble
lineage Arms and genealogy of the family 1
CHAPTER II.
ANCESTORS OF JOHN GRAVES SIMCOE.
Origin of Simcoe family Capt. John Simcoe, R.N. His marriage
Simcoe arms granted Death of Capt. Simcoe Brief sketch of
John Graves Simcoe in American Revolutionary War and as
Lieutenant-Governor of Upper Canada 12
CHAPTER III.
COURTSHIP AND MARRIAGE.
Colonel Simcoe meets Miss Gwillim Engagement Marriage Sim-
coe-Gwillim arms Removal to Wolford Appointed Lieutenant-
Governor of Upper Canada 29
CHAPTER IV.
FAREWELL TO WOLFORD.
Arrival at Weymouth Pleasant days before setting sail for Canada
First entry in Mrs. Simcoe's diary Mrs. Simcoe meets Lady
Collier George III. Visit to the island of Portland Story of
the custom of gavel-kind The records kept by a reeve staff
Something about the reeve Lady de la Pole Capt. Murray of
the " Triton " Mrs. Simcoe meets a number of distinguished
officers 35
CHAPTER V.
THE GOVERNOR AND SUITE EMBARK.
Captain Stevenson and Lieutenant Grey The Azores The " Deal
Castle " A gale Mother Carey's chickens Off Sable Island
Cape Breton sighted In the Gulf of St. Lawrence Communica-
tion with the " Liberty " Heavy seas Signalling a pilot - - 43
CHAPTER VI.
THE GOVERNOR AND His FAMILY IN QUEBEC.
Sir Alured Clarke Prince Edward Regrets at leaving the " Triton "
First impressions of Quebec Capt. Murray sails for Halifax
House in St. John Street Recollet Church Mrs. Simcoe
meets Quebec notables Colonel Simcoe sets out for Montreal
The Chateau St. Louis Lieut. Talbot returns with Colonel
Simcoe from Montreal - - 53
xiii
CONTEXTS
CHAPTER VII.
MRS. SIMCOE SPENDS AN ENJOYABLE WINTER. PAGE
Feast of the Epiphany A visit to Falls of Montmorency Mrs. Simcoe
meets Prince Edward Canoe travel in winter An ice bridge
Social functions Removal from St. John Street house A
journey from Frederickstown, N.B., to Quebec The Heights of
Abraham Cape Diamond A catastrophe 73
CHAPTER VIII.
JOURNEY TO UPPER CANADA.
Governor Simcoe and suite leave for Upper Canada The Bishop of
Caps Letters from England A night at Cap Sante with habit-
ants A drive to Grondines Impressions of places en route to
Montreal Capt. Stevenson meets the party at Pointe aux
Trembles (en haut) In Government House, Montreal Joseph
Frobisher extends hospitality La Baronne de Longueuil From
Montreal to Lachine A Highland welcome Courtesy of settlers
along the St. Lawrence Sojourn at Gananoque Arrival at
Kingston Its unfitness as a seat of Government 89
CHAPTER IX.
SIMCOE TAKES OATH OF OFFICE.
Early Kingston The shipyard The lake fleet Simcoe takes oaths
as Governor Entertained by Indians Mrs. Macaulay calls on
Mrs. Simcoe Method of clearing land Rev. John Stuart
The Governor determines to proceed to Niagara On board the
" Onondaga " Ill
CHAPTER X.
MRS. SIMCOE'S ARRIVAL AT NIAGARA.
Navy Hall and environments Freemasons' Hall An early call at
Hon. Robert Hamilton's Mrs. Simcoe spends a day sightseeing
Making friends A thunderstorm The visit of H.R.H. Prince
Edward Mr. Littlehales goes to Philadelphia to see the British
Ambassador Commodore Bouchette surveys Toronto harbor
Thayendanegea Evening pastimes 121
CHAPTER XI.
JOURNEYS OF THE GOVERNOR.
Mr. Littlehales returns from Philadelphia The Governor and party
set out for Detroit Different stages of the journey Home again
An account of the trip Governor Simcoe indisposed A fort-
night at Queenstown The " Upper Canada Gazette " Captain
yEneas Shaw's family arrives at Niagara The Governor's first
visit to Toronto 146
CHAPTER XII.
AMERICAN COMMISSIONERS GUESTS AT NAVY HALL.
Their arrival The King's birthday celebrated Sir William Johnson
Mrs. Simcoe ill at Fort Niagara Queen's Rangers in camp
The Commissioners leave for Fort Erie Illness of Francis
Gwillim Simcoe Recuperates at the camp on the mountain An
Indian council Mrs. Simcoe's first visit to Toronto Picturesque
scenes Ojibways pay their respects Envoys of the Government
Governor's trip to Lake Huron Varied experiences - - - 164
CONTENTS
CHAPTER XIII.
BUILDING OF CASTLE FRANK ON RIVEB DON. PAGE
The want of a summer home a site for Castle Frank selected
Description of the building Life in the' early days of York-
Dining in a meadow on Toronto peninsula A canoe trip to
Scarborough Heights Peculiarity of Indian burial rites Armed
schooner " Onondaga " of the Provincial Government Sergeant
Wright of the Queen's Rangers Mrs. Simcoe visits old French
Fort Rouille 203
CHAPTER XIV.
A WINTER AT YORK.
Residing in Castle Frank John Scadding's dwelling burned The
" Onondaga " afloat Poverty of Indians Instructions of Lord
Dorchester with regard to building Fort Miami Mr. McGill's
farm Again at Niagara Rumor of war Francis Gwillim Sim-
coe's third birthday Soldier accidentally wounds the Governor
An excursion to the " Forty " General Washington at Phila-
delphia Bishop Mountain visits Niagara News from Fort
Miami Return of Alex. Mackenzie from the Pacific - - - 213
CHAPTER XV.
MRS. SIMCOE VISITS QUEBEC.
Uncertainty of continued peace necessitates Mrs. Simcoe's going to
Lower Canada The " Mississaga " in readiness Passage for
Molly Brant Anchored in Kingston harbor Hospitality of Gan-
anoque settlers A stormy sail, attended with anxiety Lachine
reached Wearisome drive to Montreal Mr. Frobisher always
hospitable Voyage recommenced The closing day Welcome at
Cap Sant6 Reception at Belmont Friendships renewed Cer-
tainty of peace Courtesy of Lord and Lady Dorchester Loss of
the Bridget" 244
CHAPTER XVI.
RETURN TO UPPER CANADA.
Assembly at the Chateau Social enjoyments Lady Dorchester calls
to take leave of Mrs. Simcoe Travel in winter season The Gov-
ernor meets his wife They proceed westward Difficulties on the
way In Kingston Many miles covered on Bay of Quinte ice
The Governor seriously ill In great danger off Gibraltar Point
Gaieties at York Pleasurable canoe trip to Niagara - - - 264
CHAPTER XVII.
VISIT OF DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULD.
Prominent in France Guest at Navy Hall His remarks regarding
Mrs. Simcoe " Anglo-Canadian's " criticism Mrs. Simcoe's
opinion of the Duke and his party Mrs. McGill visits Niagara
Characteristics of Fort Erie Governor Simcoe proceeds to Long
Point and Mrs. Simcoe returns to Niagara A mineral spring
Long Point (Charlotteville) impresses the Governor favorably
His illness on return 277
XV
CONTENTS
CHAPTER XVIII.
VISIT TO NEW CAPITAL OF UPPEB CANADA. PAGE
A quick trip across the lake Mr. John B. Laurence accompanies the
party to York Deer in vicinity of Lake Simcoe Castle Frank
in process of erection Fishing on the Don River Governor's
health improves Winter picnics John Macaulay (Honorable
John Simcoe Macaulay) an axeman Thaw affects the " Head of
the Lake " A few days at Castle Frank in camp fashion - - 297
CHAPTER XIX.
A TRIP ACBOSS LAKE ONTABIO.
The Governor worse The journey from York to Niagara is made in
four hours A snowfall in May News of the ratification of Jay's
Treaty Mrs. Simcoe takes leave of Mrs. Hamilton Farewell to
Navy Hall Grandeur of the " Forty " Over mountain and
stream to the " Kings' Head " inn The surrounding country
Some inhabitants Sight-seeing at Stoney Creek A diversion at
Burlington Bay Embarked at the inlet A sail through a heavy
sea to the River Credit Arrival at York 310
CHAPTER XX.
LEAVETAKINGS OF FBIENDS.
Castle Frank in summer The Governor receives official reply to his
request for leave of absence He and his suite to sail on the
" Pearl " from Quebec A round of farewells Mrs. Simcoe much
depressed at leaving friends Sail from York on 21st July, arriv-
ing in Kingston on 25th A short stay in Kingston Some events
of the voyage east to Lachine Piloted through the rapids to
Montreal Sojourn at Mr. Edward Gray's Unpleasant voyage
from Montreal to Three Rivers A few minutes with Rev. Dr.
Mountain Mrs. Simcoe enjoys approach to Quebec Greetings at
Belmont 332
CHAPTER XXI.
HOMEWABD BOUND.
Bishop Mountain places his house in Quebec at Mrs. Simcoe's disposal
She accepts offer The " Active " with Lord Dorchester wrecked
off Anticosti Mrs. Simcoe fears Lord Dorchester will sail oil the
" Pearl " A visit to the Convent of the Ursulines Recollet
Church destroyed by fire Embark on the " Pearl " Chased by
French frigates Anxiety at an end Several days of stormy
weather Land's End sighted In the Downs Pleasant hours at
Dover The Cathedral at Canterbury Mrs. Simcoe contrasts
English climate with that of Canada Arrival in London - - 350
CHAPTER XXII.
AGAIN AT WOLFOBD SIMCOE'S DEATH.
The home-coming Life at Wolford Gov. Simcoe appointed Com-
mander-in-Chief at San Domingo Climatic conditions unfavor-
able Returns to England Commander of the Western Military
District Appointed Commander-in-Chief in India, followed by
orders to leave for Portugal Mrs. Simcoe makes preparations to
leave for the East News of the General's illness and return to
England Mother and daughters hasten to Exeter General
Simcoe's death . 359
xvi
CONTENTS
CHAPTER XXIII.
MBS. SIMCOE AND HER CHILDREN. PAGE
Wolford after the death of the General Rev. Henry Addington Sim-
coe Work of the Misses Simcoe What they did for the Parish of
Dunkeswell The building of the Abbey church Carving and
ornamentation by the Misses Simcoe Death of Mrs. Simcoe An
impressive funeral service A daughter on her mother's char-
acter Capt. John Kennaway Simcoe succeeds to Wolford His
marriage and life on the old estate 363
CHAPTER XXIV.
LOVING WORDS FROM THE PULPIT.
A last tribute to Mrs. Simcoe A memorial sermon in the parish
church Every parishioner present A memorable gathering - 370
CHAPTER XXV.
THE WILL OF MRS. SIMCOE.
Her daughters her heirs Leaves a large sum of money to each The
land and estate of Dunkeswell Abbey left to Eliza and Caroline
as joint tenants Mr. Walcot, of Oundle, a cousin of Mrs. Simcoe,
bequeaths a large estate to the Simcoe family - ... 381
CHAPTER XXVI.
GENERAL SIMCOE'S ESTATE IN CANADA.
His lands principally in the eastern part of the province His income
as Governor Accounts not all adjusted when he left Canada
Trouble in disposing of lands and in collection of arrearages
The Castle Frank property, which belonged to Francis, his eldest
son Mrs. Simcoe's interest in property at York Kept up a corre-
spondence with Canadian friends until within a short time of
her death Profound regard for Rev. Dr. Scadding, of Toronto - 387
CHAPTER XXVII.
JOHN BAILEY'S MEMOIRS.
The author talks with some of the old retainers of Dunkeswell Parish
Kindly words of the Simcoes from tenants Something about
Bailey 390
CHAPTER XXVIII.
BAILEY'S OPINION OF THE SIMCOE FAMILY.
Tells of incidents in the daily life at Wolford Pleasurable outings
Catastrophe at the " Old Passage " Bailey a man well versed in
Bible knowledge The Simcoes as early risers The improve-
ments on the estate at Wolford Visit of Mrs. Simcoe to her son,
Henry Addington Simcoe at Penheale North Wales a favorite
touring place Bailey's knowledge of every locality visited - - 393
CHAPTER XXIX.
THE PASSING OF MRS. SIMCOE.
Describes the funeral of the General in 1806, and of his mistress in
1850 Comments on death and the resurrection Bailey tells of
General Simcoe's work as commander of the South-Western Dis-
trict Describes a sham battle near Honiton Training of volun-
teers Simcoe's great care Bailey on the proposed French
invasion 403
xvii
CONTENTS
CHAPTER XXX.
THE VILLAGE OF DUNKESWELL. PAGE
Its improvement in fifty years Improvements at Wolford Estate
and military discipline Bailey again gives opinion on the
chances of a war with Prance Dinner parties at the Manor
House Death of the General Bailey's high opinion of the
Misses Simcoe 409
CHAPTER XXXI.
INCIDENT AND COMMENT.
His recollections of the General Bailey intersperses comment of a
religious character in relating his story As a small boy in the
butler's pantry Curious incident concerning a distinguished
Frenchman Journey to Bath A runaway - - - 415
CHAPTER XXXII.
MANY JOURNEYS WITH MBS. SIMCOE.
Places and scenes Comparisons by Bailey Musings Courtesy and
Liberality of the General Always progressing .... 422
CHAPTER XXXIII.
TRIBUTE BY BAILEY.
Wolford a great social centre in Devon The General appointed to
India The Scadding family in Devon and Canada Bailey quotes
Scripture Likens Governor Simcoe to Biblical characters - - 426
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
MBS. JOHN GRAVES SIMCOE .... . Frontispiece
JOHN GRAVES SIMCOE, Frontispiece
" OLD COURT," NEAR Ross, HEREFORDSHIRE - - ' - - - - 1
(From a drawing- in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
COLONEL GWILLIM - ... 2
(From the plaster bust at Wolford, Devon.)
THE OLD CHURCH OF WHITCHURCH BEFORE RESTORATION 3
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe in the J. Ross Robertson
collection. )
ARMS OF GWILLIM 4
(From a drawing in the College of Arms, London, England.)
THE GWILLIM TOMB AT WHITCHURCH 6
(From, a drawing in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
COLONEL GWILLIM 8
(From a drawing in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
THE RESIDENCE KNOWN AS HEMBURY FORT 9
(From a drawing in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
MRS. SIMCOE IN WELSH DRESS 10
(From a miniature at Wolford, Devon.)
BROCADE SKIRT OF GOWN WORN BY MRS. SIMCOE 11
(From the original at Wolford, Devon.)
GATE OF BEESTON CASTLE, NEAR BUNBURY, CHESHIRE - - - - 13
(From a drawing made in 1818, in the J. Ross Robertson
collection.)
ARMS OF JOHN SIMCOE, R.N. 15
From a drawing in College of Arms, London, England.)
CAPTAIN JAMES COOK .... 15
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
SIB WILLIAM HOWE 16
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
HON. JAMES BABY - - - 21
(From a drawing in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
NAVY HALL, NIAGARA, 1792 - Face 22
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe, In the Royal Library, British
Museum, London.)
BUCKERALL PARISH ClIUBCH, NEAR HoNITON, DEVON 29
(From a drawing in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
BUCKERALL PARISH CHURCH, INTERIOR 30
(From a drawing in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
THE SIMCOE MARRIAGE CERTIFICATE 31
(From register of Buckerall Parish Church.)
SIMCOE-GWILLIM ARMS, 1782 - 32
(From a drawing in the College of Arms, London, England.)
SIMCOE-GWILLIM ARMS, 1792 32
(From a drawing at Wolford, Devon.)
xix
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
WOLFOHD, NEAR HoNITON, DEVON 33
(From a drawing- in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
NOBTH VIEW OF WEYMOUTH, 1788 35
(From a drawing in the Broadley collection, Brldport, Dorset.)
GEOBGE III. 36
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
A REEVE STAFF 38
(From a drawing by B. O. Pearce, ex-Reeve of Portland.)
VIEW OF WEYMOUTH, LOOKING WEST, 1791 39
(From a water-color by Wm. Delamotte, in the Broadley
collection, Bridport.)
BARON GBENVILLE 39
(From an engraving- in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
BABON THURLOW 40
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
PRINCESS OF WTJRTEMBURG 40
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
LADY POULETT 41
(From a miniature owned by the late Miss Gwynne, Toronto.)
SIR GEOBGE MURRAY 41
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
SIR WILLIAM SYDNEY SMITH 41
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
EARL ST. VINCENT 42
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
SIR CHARLES GREY 43
(From a portrait in possession of His Excellency Earl Grey,
Governor-General of Canada).
A SNOW BIRD 47
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe on board H. M. S. " Triton.")
A CROSSBILL 47
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe on board H. M. S. "Triton.")
ISLAND OF ENTRY, 1791 49
(From a drawing- by Mrs. Simcoe on board H. M. S. " Triton.")
THE " LIBERTY " 50
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe on board H. M. S. "Triton.")
LORD DORCHESTER 50
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
ISLAND OF ANTICOSTI 51
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe on board H. M. S. " Triton.")
J. F. WALLET DES BARBES ---62
(From a portrait in possession of Rev. C. "W. Vernon, Halifax, N.S.)
BRANDY POTS ISLANDS, 1791 52
(From a drawing- by Mrs. Simooe at Wolford, Devon.)
SIB ALURED CLARKE 53
(From an engraving in the Public Library, Toronto.)
PRINCE EDWARD 54
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
THE RECOLLET CHURCH 55
(From a drawing of interior of the church, restored after the
siege of Quebec.)
JUDGE ADAM MABANE. 56
(From an engraving in the Legislative Library, Quebec.)
XX
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
THE RESIDENCE KNOWN AS " SAMOS " 57
(From a drawing in possession of P. B. Casgrain, K.C., Quebec.)
SURVEYOR-GENERAL SAMUEL HOLLAND 67
(From a miniature in possession of his great-grandson, A. El
Holland, St. Eleanor's, Prince Edward Island.)
CANADIAN CARRIOLE 58
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
BELMONT, NEAR QUEBEC 59
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
OFFICERS' CARRIOLE 60
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
RUINS OF INTENDANT'S PALACE, QUEBEC, 1791 - 60
(From an engraving in the Dominion Archives, Ottawa.)
THE FORT AND CHATEAU ST. Louis, QUEBEC RECONSTRUCTED BY
FRONTENAC, 1694-8 61
(From an engraving in the Dominion Archives, Ottawa.)
THE OLD CHATEAU STONE - 62
(From an engraving in the Dominion Archives, Ottawa.)
HALDIMAND CASTLE, QUEBEC Face 62
(From a water-color by H. Bunnell, 1887.)
COLONEL THOMAS TALBOT -65
(From a water-color by J. B. Wandesforde, in possession of
Mrs. George Macbeth, London, Ontario.)
COLONEL TALBOT'S RESIDENCE, PORT TALBOT 65
(From a sketch sent to England in 1806, copied by Mrs. Simcoe.)
MGR. HUBERT 66
(From an engraving in the Legislative Library, Quebec.)
CONVENT OF THE URSULINES, QUEBEC 67
(From a drawing by Richard Short, 1761, engraved by James
Mason. )
THE GENERAL HOSPITAL, QUEBEC 68
(From a drawing in the Dominion Archives, Ottawa.)
THE CATHEDRAL, QUEBEC, AS RESTORED 69
(From Routhier's "Quebec.")
ST. Louis GATE, QUEBEC, 1791 70
(From a drawing In the Dominion Archives, Ottawa.)
MONS. GRAVfe DE LA RlVE - 71
(From an engraving in the Dominion Archives, Ottawa.)
COLONEL JOHN BUTLER 71
(From an engraving in the Dominion Archives, Ottawa.)
GENERAL ST. CLAIR --72
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
BISHOP PLESSIS 73
(From a portrait in possession of L. P. Sylvain, Assistant
Librarian, Library of Parliament, Ottawa.)
SIR FREDERICK HALDIMAND, BART. 75
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
CHIEF JUSTICE WILLIAM SMITH 76
(From an engraving in the Dominion Archives, Ottawa.)
THE PROVISION STORE, QUEBEC 76
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
HON. FRANQOIS BABY 77
(From a portrait in the Dominion Archives, Ottawa.)
xxi
ILLUSTEATIONS
PAGE
M.ONS. IGNACE DE SALABERBY 78
(From a silhouette in possession of Mons. Hertel la Rocque,
Montreal.)
MADAME DE SALABEBBY 78
(From a silhouette in possession of Mons. Hertel la Rocque,
Montreal.)
FATHEB P. FELIX DE BEBEY 78
(From a portrait in possession of L. P. Sylvain, Assistant
Librarian, Library of Parliament, Ottawa.)
MONS. IGNACE DE SALABEBBY 78
(From a portrait in the Chateau de Ramezay, Montreal.)
COLONEL ^NEAS SHAW 79
(From a portrait from life in possession of his grandson, Colonel
George Shaw, Toronto.)
HON. JAMES McGiLL, MONTBEAL 80
(From a portrait in the David Ross McCord collection, Montreal.)
HON. ISAAC OGDEN 81
(From a portrait in possession of L. P. Sylvain, Assistant
Librarian, Library of Parliament, Ottawa.)
MAJOB-GENEBAL JAMES WOLFE - 82
(From an engraving in the Dominion Archives, Ottawa.)
BY THE RIVEB, QUEBEC, 1792 83
- (From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
CASCADE NEAB WOLFE'S COVE, QUEBEC, 1792 84
(From a drawing 1 by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
HON. PAUL ROCQUE DE ST. OUBS 84
(From an engraving in the Dominion Archives, Ottawa.)
CHIEF JUSTICE WILLIAM OSGOOUE 85
(From an oil painting from life at Wolford, Devon.)
HON. "PETEB RUSSELL 86
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
NEAB FALLS OF MONTMOBENCY, QUEBEC, 1792 - Face 86
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
JOHN McCoBD, JB. 91
(From a portrait in the David Ross McCord collection, Montreal.)
Sue E. BAKEB BAKEB, BABT. (MAJOB E. B. LITTLEHALES) 93
(From a portrait from life in possession of his grandson, Sir
Randolph Littlehales Baker, Bart., Dorset, England.)
CHAMBLY, ON THE ST. LAWBENCE, 1792 94
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
VABENNES, ON THE ST. LAWBENCE, 1792 94
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
JOSEPH FBOBISHEB - 94
(From a portrait in the David Ross McCord collection, Montreal.)
GOVEBNMENT HOUSE CHATEAU DE RAMEZAY, MONTBEAL 95
(From an engraving in " Hochelaga Depicta," 1839.)
MONKLANDS, A FOBMEB GOVEBNMENT HOUSE, MONTBEAL 96
(From "Montreal After 250 Tears," by W. D. Lighthall, K.C.).
DOWAGER BABONESS DE LONGUEUIL (MARIE FLEUBY D'ESCHAMBAULT) - 98
(From an oil painting from life in possession of Mrs. Rushton
Fairclough, her great-great-granddaughter, Stanford Univer-
sity, Gal.)
HON. WM. GRANT -... gg
(From an engraving in the Dominion Archives, Ottawa.)
xxii
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
FOURTH BARONESS DE LONGUEUIL (MABIE CHARLES JOSEPH LE MOYNE) - 98
(From an oil painting: from life in possession of Mrs. Arklay
Fergusson, her great-granddaughter, Ethiebeaton, Scotland.)
POINTE AU BODET, 1792 Face 100
(From a drawing- by Mrs. Simcoe in the Royal Library, British
Museum, London.)
HON. JOHN MUNRO 103
(From an engraving- in the Dominion Archives, Ottawa.)
CAREY'S HOUSE, GANANOQUE, 1792 106
(From a drawing- by Mrs. Simcoe in the J. Ross Robertson
collection.)
VIEW NEAR THE THOUSAND ISLANDS, 1792 .... FOC6 106
(From a drawing- by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
VIEW NEAR GANANOQUE, 1792 109
(From a drawing- by Mrs. Simcoe in the J. Ross Robertson
collection.)
CATABAQUI (KINGSTON), SOUTH-EAST VIEW .... Face 112
(From a drawing- by James Peachey, 1783, in the J. Ross
Robertson collection.)
A DISTANT VIEW OF KINGSTON, IN 1792 ------- 115
(From a drawing- by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
DB. JAMES MACAULAY 118
(From an oil painting from life, in possession of his grand-
daughters, the Misses Macaulay, Exmouth, Devon.)
MRS. MACAULAY 118
(From an oil painting from life, in possession of the Misses
Macaulay, Exmouth, Devon.)
REV. JOHN STUART *- - - - 119
(From a portrait in the David Ross McCord collection, Montreal.)
ONLY REMAINING BUILDING OF NAVY HALL GROUP - - - - 122
(From a drawing in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
NAVY HALL, NIAGARA, FROM THE RIVER, 1792 - - - - Face 122
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe in the J. Ross Robertson
collection.)
HON. ROBERT HAMILTON 126
(From a miniature in possession of his grandson, Clark Hamilton,
of Kingston, Ontario.)
RESIDENCE OF HON. ROBERT HAMILTON, NIAGARA RIVER ROAD, 1792 - 127
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe in the J. Ross Robertson
collection.)
NIAGARA FALLS FROM CANADIAN SIDE, 1792 - - - Face 128
(From a water-color by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
COLONEL JOHN ASKIN 132
(From a silhouette in possession of his grandson, A. H. Askin,
Walkerville, Ontario.)
QUEENSTOWN, OR THE LOWER LANDING, 1792 - FttC6 132
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe in the Royal Library, British
Museum, London.)
NIAGARA RIVER AT QUEENSTOWN, 1792 135
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
VISCOUNT GEORGE GARLIES 136
(From a portrait at Newton-Stewart, Scotland.)
QUEEN'S RANGERS' HUTS AT QUEENSTOWN, 1792 - - - Face 136
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe in the J. Ross Robertson
collection.)
COLONEL JOSEPH BOUCHETTE 140
(From an engraving in possession of Errol Bouchette, F.R.S.C.,
Ottawa.)
xxiii
ILLUSTRATIONS
THATENDANEGEA (JOSEPH BBANT) ----....
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson Masonic collection.)
BBANT HOUSE, RESIDENCE OF JOSEPH BRANT, AT BURLINGTON, ONT.
(From a drawing in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
MAP OF NIAGARA RIVER, SHOWING SITES OF FIRST AND SECOND FORTS
LITTLE NIAGARA, 1745-51 ........
(From a drawing by Peter A. Porter, of Niagara Falls, N. T.)
REMAINS NEAR FORT SCHLOSSER .......
(From a drawing- by the late Col. Peter A. Porter, of Niagara
Falls, N. Y.
OUTLINE OF GOVERNOR SIMCOE'S ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO DETROIT, 1793 147
(From a drawing by Lieut. Pilkington, copied by Mrs. Simcoe.)
THE MOHAWK VILLAGE, GRAND RIVER, NEAR BRANTFORD, SHOWING INDIAN
COUNCIL HOUSE AND CHURCH, 1793 ..... Face
(From a drawing in the Royal Library, British Museum, made
by Lieut. Pilkington, and copied by Mrs. Simcoe.)
PAGE
142
- 142
- 144
- 145
148
Miss RACHEL CROOKSHANK .........
(From a silhouette in possession of her niece, Mrs. Stephen
Howard, Toronto.)
152
Face 152
Face 158
162
164
164
LOG HUTS OR BARRACKS AT QUEENSTOWN, 1793 -
(From a drawing by "Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
AT THE WHIRLPOOL RAPIDS, NIAGARA, 1793 ....
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
"THE CASTLE," FORT NIAGARA, N.Y.
(From a drawing made in 1830, copied by Mrs. Simcoe.)
GENERAL BENJAMIN LINCOLN
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
JOHN RANDOLPH
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
TIMOTHY PICKERING ........... 165
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
SIR WILLIAM JOHNSON, BART. ......... 167
(From a portrait in the Dominion Archives, Ottawa.)
LADY JOHNSON, WIFE OF SIR JOHN JOHNSON ...... 167
(From a portrait from life in possession of Sir Gordon Johnson,
Bart, Montreal.)
SIR JOHN JOHNSON, BART. ....... - 168
(From a portrait in the David Ross McCord collection, Montreal.)
COLONEL GUY JOHNSON .......... 168
(From an engraving in the Chateau de Ramezay, Montreal.)
TENTS OF MRS. SIMCOE IN CAMP NEAR QUEENSTOWN, 1793 - Face 168
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
HON. ALEXANDER GRANT .......... 171
(From an oil painting from life in possession of Grant of Glen-
moriston, Inverness-shire, Scotland.)
NIAGARA FALLS FROM CANADIAN SIDE, 1793 - ... Face 172
(From a water-color by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
YORK (TORONTO) HARBOR, 1793 ....... Face 176
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe in the Royal Library, British
Museum, London.)
CASCADE ON THE SEVERN MCDONALD'S RAPIDS, BETWEEN SPARROW LAKE
AND RAGGED RAPIDS ........ Face 180
(From a drawing by Lieut. Pilkington, copied by Mrs. Simcoe,
in the Royal Library, British Museum, London.)
xxiv
ILLUSTKATIONS
PAGE
ON THE SEVERN MCLEAN'S BAY, AT OUTLET TO SPARROW LAKE Face 184
(From a drawing- by Lieut. Pilkingrton, copied by Mrs. Simcoe,
in the Royal Library, British Museum, London.)
SIR D. W. SMITH, BART., FIRST SURVEYOR-GENERAL OF UPPER CANADA - 187
(From a portrait in the Dominion Archives, Ottawa.)
CANISE, INDIAN CHIEF, KNOWN ALSO AS " GREAT SAIL " - - - - 188
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
L'ABBfi PHILIPPE Louis DESJARDINS 188
(From a portrait in the Ursuline Convent, Quebec.)
ON THE SEVERN RIVER THE LITTLE CHUTE, NEAR THE ENTRANCE TO
GLOUCESTER POOL Face 188
(From a drawing- by Lieut. Pilkington, copied by Mrs. Simcoe,
in the Royal Library, British Museum, London.)
ON THE SEVERN HEAD OF BIG CHUTE, NEAR GLOUCESTER POOL Face 192
(From a drawing: by Lieut. Pilkington, copied by Mrs. Simcoe,
in the Royal Library, British Museum, London.)
FIRST OFFICIAL PLAN OF YORK (TORONTO), 1793 195
(From the original in Public Record Office, Chancery Lane,
London, England.)
SPARROW LAKE CHUTE ON SEVERN RIVER, BELOW MCLEAN'S BAY Face 196
(From a drawing- by Lieut. Pilkington, copied by Mrs. Simcoe,
in the Royal Library, British Museum, London.)
" BY GLOUCESTER POOL," ON THE SEVERN RIVER - Face 200
(From a drawing by Lieut. Pilkington, copied by Mrs. Simcoe,
in the Royal Library, British Museum, London.)
MODERN PLAN SHOWING SITE OF CASTLE FRANK 204
(From a plan in the Crown Lands Department, Toronto.)
CASTLE FRANK, 1794 Face 204
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe in the Royal Library, British
Museum, London.)
NEAR CASTLE FRANK 208
(From a drawing- by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
H. M. SCHOONER " ONONDAGA " 211
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
EDWARD GRAVES SIMCOE WRIGHT 212
(From an oil painting from life in possession of his grandson,
Edward H. Rodden, Toronto.)
ADMIRAL ALAN GARDNER 212
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
QUEEN CHARLOTTE 213
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
JOHN SCADDING'S DWELLING, EAST SIDE OF DON RIVER, 1793 - - - 214
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
JOHN SCADDING, JR. 215
(From an oil painting from life in possession of his grand-
nephew, Dr. H. Crawford Scadding, Toronto.)
REV. DR. HENRY SCADDING AT TWENTY-EIGHT 215
(From a portrait in possession of his daughter, Mrs. Robert
Sullivan, Toronto. )
REV. DR. HENRY SCADDING AT FIFTY-SIX YEARS 215
(From a portrait in possession of his daughter, Mrs. Robert
Sullivan, Toronto.)
A VIEW ON THE MIAMI RIVER, 1794 217
(From a drawing by Lieut. Pilkington, copied by Mrs. Simcoe,
at Wolford, Devon.)
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
SITE OF FORT MIAMI (MAUMEE) ' 218
(Prom a drawing: made in 1910, in the J. Ross Robertson
collection. )
SOUTH SHORE OF LAKE ONTARIO FROM NIAGARA TO THE " FORTY," 1794 - 222
(From a drawing: by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
WATERFALL NEAR BURLINGTON BAY, 1794 Face 222
(From a drawing- by Mrs. Simcoe, in the Royal Library, British
Museum, London.)
TWENTY MILE CREEK (JORDAN, ONT.), 1794 225
(From a drawing- by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
RESIDENCE OF D. W. SMITH, NIAGARA, 1794 - - - - - 226
(From a drawing- by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
THE SERVOS HOUSE, NIAGARA, 1783-1911 230
(From a drawing by Owen Staples, O.S.A., of Toronto, in 1911,
in the J. Ross Robertson collection, Public Library, Toronto.)
THE FIFTEEN MILE CREEK, 1794 Face 230
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe, in the Royal Library, British
Museum, London.)
INTERIOR VIEW OF SERVOS HOUSE 233
(From a drawing by Owen Staples, O.S.A., of Toronto, in 1911,
in the J. Ross Robertson collection, Public Library, Toronto.)
THE GORGE NEAR FORTY MILE CREEK (GRIMSBY), 1794 - - Face 234
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
BISHOP MOUNTAIN - 238
(From a portrait in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
SPRAY OF THE FALLS OF NIAGARA, AS SEEN FROM CHIPPAWA RIVER Face 238
(From a drawing- by Mrs. Simcoe, in the Royal Library, British
Museum, London.)
LIEUT.-GENERAL DAVID SHANK 241
(From an oil painting from life, at Wolford, Devon.)
GENERAL SIR ROGER HALE SHEAFFE, BART. 241
(From an engraving in the Dominion Archives, Ottawa.)
GENERAL ANTHONY WAYNE 242
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
SIR ALEXANDER MACKENZIE - 243
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
KINGSTON, U. C., IN 1794 - - - Face 244
(From a drawing- by Mrs. Simcoe, in the Royal Library, British
Museum, London.)
COLONEL JOEL STONE 249
(From a portrait in possession of his grandson, Charles
Macdonald, Gananoque. )
HOUSE AND MILL NEAR GANANOQUE, 1794 250
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe in the J. Ross Robertson
collection.)
FAIRFIELD HOUSE AND MILL, NEAR GANANOQUE, 1794 - ... 252
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe in the J. Ross Robertson
collection.)
VIEW FROM FAIRFIELD'S HOUSE - - - 252
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe in the J. Ross Robertson
collection.)
MONTREAL EAST TO POINT DU LAC, 1794 - - - - - - 256
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe in the J. Ross Robertson
collection.)
MAP OF ROUTE FROM THREE RIVERS TO QUEBEC, 1794 - 257
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe in the J. Ross Robertson
collection.)"
xxvi
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
LADY DORCHESTER 260
(From a copy of a miniature in England.)
HERMAN WITSIUS RYLAND - 263
(Prom a portrait in possession of his granddaughter, Mrs. Henry
J. Low, Montreal.)
GOVERNMENT MILL ON THE APPANEE RIVER, 1795 - - - Face 270
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe, in the Royal Library, British
Museum, London.)
DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULD-LIANCOURT 277
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
MRS. TICE'S HOUSE NEAR QUEENSTOWN Face 278
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
CHIEF JUSTICE WILLIAM DUMMER POWELL - - ... 281
(From an oil painting from life, in possession of ^milius Jarvis,
Toronto.)
MRS. POWELL 281
(From an oil painting from life, in possession of ^milius Jarvis,
Toronto. )
CAPTAIN JAMES MATHEW HAMILTON 282
(From a portrait in possession of his grandson, Basil G.
Hamilton, Wilmer, B.C.)
MRS. HAMILTON 282
(From a portrait in possession of his grandson, Basil G.
Hamilton, Wilmer, B.C.)
FORT CHIPPAWA, ON THE WELLAND RIVER, 1795 - - - Face 282
(From a drawing" by Mrs. Simcoe, in the Royal Library, British
Museum, London.)
MOUTH OF THE WELLAND RIVER AT CHIPPAWA, 1795 - - - Face 286
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe, in the Royal Library, British
Museum, London.)
A GLIMPSE OF THE LAKE AND BEACH NEAR FORT ERIE - - Face 290
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe in the Royal Library, British
Museum. London.)
BASS ISLAND, WEST END OF LAKE ERIE, 1795 - Face 294
(From a drawing by Lieut. Pilkington, copied by Mrs. Simcoe,
in the Royal Library, British Museum, London.)
SITE OF CHARLOTTEVILLE, AT LONG POINT, 1795 - Face 298
(From a drawing by Lieut. Pilkington, copied by Mrs. Simcoe,
in the Royal Library, British Museum, London.)
SKINNER'S MILL, EAST BANK OF DON RTVEB 301
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
LIEUTENANT JAMES GIVINS 304
(From an oil painting in possession of his grandson, Robert
C. Givins, Chicago, 111.)
CAPTAIN ANDREWS 304
(From a miniature in possession of his great-granddaughter,
Miss Maude A. A. Givins, Toronto.)
ORIGINAL ENTRANCE TO BURLINGTON BAY, 1795 - Face 304
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe in the Royal Library, British
Museum, London.)
WILLIAM JARVIS *- 311
(From an oil painting from life, in possession of his grandson,
^Emilius Jarvis, Toronto.)
MRS. JARVIS , 311
(From an oil painting from life, in possession of her grandson,
^Emilius Jarvis, Toronto.)
CHIEF JUSTICE JAY 312
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.) .
xxvii
ILLUSTBATIONS
PAGE
THE TWENTY MILE CREEK (JORDAN, ONT.), 1796 - - - Face 312
(From a drawing: by Mrs. Simcoe in the Royal Library, British
Museum, London.)
FRANCIS GWILLIM SIMCOE - - - 315
(From a drawing from life by Lieut. Pilkingrton.)
JOHN GREEN'S DWELLING AT THE " FORTY " - 316
(From a drawing by Win. Forbes, Grimsby, Ont., in the J. Ross
Robertson collection.)
VIEW FROM THE KING'S HEAD INN, 1796 Face 316
(From a drawing- by Mrs. Simcoe in the Royal Library, British
Museum, London.)
THE HEAD OF LAKE ONTARIO, 1796 320
(From a drawing; by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
COOTE'S PARADISE, NEAR BURLINGTON BAY, 1796 - - - Face 320
(From a drawing- by Mrs. Simcoe in the Royal Library, British
Museum, London. )
THE KING'S HEAD INN, BURLINGTON BAY, 1796 323
(From a drawing- by Mrs. Simcoe in the J. Ross Robertson
collection.)
KING'S HEAD INN, FROM THE SOUTH-EAST 324
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe in the J. Ross Robertson
collection.)
LAKE ONTARIO AND ORIGINAL ENTRANCE TO BURLINGTON BAY, 1796 Face 324
(From a drawing- by Mrs. Simcoe in the Royal Library, British
Museum, London.)
THE SHORE AT THE " HEAD OF THE LAKE " 327
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
THE RIVER CREDIT, NEAR YORK, 1796 Face 328
(From a drawing- by Mrs. Simcoe in the Royal Library, British
Museum, London.)
THE BEACH NEAR THE KING'S HEAD INN, 1796 331
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
THE GARRISON AT YORK (TORONTO), 1796, SHOWING FIRST HOUSES IN
FORT AND MAGAZINE ON SHORE Face 332
(From a drawing- by Mrs. Simcoe in the Royal Library, British
Museum, London.)
MRS. SIMCOE'S SPINNING WHEEL 336
(A photograph of the wheel in possession of Mrs. Stephen
Heward, Toronto.)
PLAYTER'S BRIDGE OVER THE DON RIVER AT YORK, 1794 - - Face 336
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe in the Royal Library, British
Museum, London.)
CASTLE FRANK IN THE SUMMER OF 1796 339
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
KINGSTON, FROM THE HARBOR, 1796 340
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
BRIDGE OVER THE DON AT YORK, 1796 Face 340
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe in the Royal Library, British
Museum, London.)
POINT IROQUOIS, DUNDAS COUNTY, 1796 343
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe in the J. Ross Robertson
collection.)
THE RIVER BELOW POINT IROQUOIS 343
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe in the J. Ross Robertson
collection.)
A BEND IN THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE 344
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
xxviii
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
ISLE Aux SOEUKS, NOW NUN'S ISLAND 345
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
GENERAL GABRIEL CHRISTIE 347
(From a portrait in the Chateau de Ramezay, Montreal.)
THE RECOLLET CHURCH, QUEBEC EXTERIOB 352
(From an engraving: on the spot by Richard Short, 1761, in the
J. Ross Robertson collection.)
JOSHUA BARNEY 355
(From an engraving in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
REV. H. A. SIMCOE, THIRD SON OF GOVERNOR AND MRS. SIMCOE - - 364
(From a photograph at Wolford, Devon.)
MOTHER EMILY CLARE, DAUGHTER OF REV. H. A. SIMCOE - - - 364
(From a photograph at Wolford, Devon.)
PENHEALE MANOR, NEAR LAUNCESTON, CORNWALL .... 354
(From a picture in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
DUNKESWELL ABBEY CHURCH HOLY TRINITY 365
(From a drawing by Miss Harriet Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
A RESTFUL SPOT AT PENHEALE 366
(From a picture in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
CAPTAIN J. KENNAWAY SIMCOE, R.N., SECOND SON OF REV. H. A. SIMCOE 368
(From a photograph at Wolford, Devon.)
MRS. SIMCOE THE LADY OF THE MANOR, WOLFORD 368
(From a photograph at Wolford, Devon, 1908.)
DUNKESWELL PARISH CHURCH, BEFORE RESTORATION EXTERIOR - - 370
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
DUNKESWELL PARISH CHURCH, BEFORE RESTORATION INTERIOR - - 371
(From a drawing by Miss Harriet Simcoe at Wolford, Devon.)
DUNKESWELL PARISH CHURCH, AS RESTORED IN 1867 - - - - 376
(From a picture in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
CHAPTER I.
MRS. SIMCOE HER ANCESTORS.
The personal character of Mrs. John Graves Simcoe, the wife
of the first Governor of Upper Canada, may be written in a few
brief sentences. The records that have been handed down to us
from her own pen and from the pen of others who were contem-
porary with her, all testify to her worth as woman, wife and mother.
Mrs. Simcoe had not all the advantages that in natural course come
to a daughter in girlhood days. She never saw her father, and in
"OLD COURT/' NEAR Ross, HEREFORDSHIRE.
(From a Dramng in the J. Rogg Robertson collection.)
the first twenty-four hours of her life she lost her mother. Bereft
of those she would have loved, it fell to other than the gentle hands
of father and mother to care for her as she grew to girlhood.
Elizabeth Posthuma Gwillim was born in 1766 at Whitchurch,
in Herefordshire, at the mansion known as "Old Court" near the
town of Ross, the home of her mother, Elizabeth Spinckes, widow of
Lieutenant-Colonel Thomas Gwillim. Her father died seven months
1 1
DIARY OF MBS. SIMCOE
before she was born, while her mother died a few hours after giving
birth to this daughter her only child. She was named Elizabeth
after her mother and Posthuma to commemorate the circumstances
of her birth. Her father was an officer in the army, attaining the
rank of colonel a few years before his death. He served in Canada
and was one of the three Majors of Brigade of General Wolfe at
Quebec in 1759, and died in 1766 while his regiment was stationed
at Gibraltar. The marble bust of General Wolfe, now in the saloon
at Wolford, was presented to Colonel Gwillim by the General, and a
plaster bust of Colonel Gwillim from which the
picture is taken is in the drawing-room of the
old mansion. On the death of her mother and
father the infant Elizabeth inherited " Old
Court" and all that it contained. Mrs. Simcoe's
mother was a daughter and co-heir of Elmes
Spinckes, Esq., of Aldwinkle in North North-
amptonshire, who died there in 1762. She suc-
ceeded to the fortune left by her mother and
grandmother, both of whom were heiresses in
their own right.
"The old Church of Whitchurch on the Wye"
was erected some hundreds of years ago, and was
COLONEL GWILLIM. the church which the Gwillim family attended
from the time of its erection. The registers show
baptisms in connection with the family as early as 1754 and burials
from 1766. The family tomb of the Gwillims is in the churchyard.
In alter years Mrs. Simcoe often visited Whitchurch and made
sketches of spots so well known to her mother. Amongst them was
the old church.
The Gwillims came of noble lineage. Among the Archives at
Wolford is an elaborate pedigree of the family, which is a very ancient
one, the genealogy being traceable in a straight line from the early
kings of North and South Wales. To this family belonged the
celebrated Herald Gwillim, Rouge Croix Pursuivant-at-arms, 1618.
Several pedigrees of the family have been drawn from time to
time at the different visitations or investigations by a high heraldic
officer whose duty is to examine into the pedigrees and inter-marriages
of a family or the families of a district, with the view of ascertaining
whether the arms borne by any person or persons living in that
district are incorrect or unwarrantably assumed. Of the later ones
entered at the College of Arms, one was drawn in 1569, another
in 1683, and another was drawn for the subject of this biography by
Francis Townsend, Windsor Herald, in 1806. It is a most elaborate
document, being eighteen feet in length and forty-eight inches wide,
and contains about four hundred quarterings of arms in colors, the
work of a skilled artist, and forty-four feet of illuminated border.
The penwork in which the names are written gives the document rank
as an example of the best in heraldic art, and is said to have cost 300.
2
THE FAMILY OF GWILLIM
The Gwillims on the paternal side were originally from Brecon-
shire, having been Lords of Brecon before the Conquest. At a
somewhat later date their ancestral home was at Brayne Court,
Herefordshire, where they were domiciled before the fifteenth cen-
tury and again early in the sixteenth century at Fawley Court,
Langstone Court and Whitchurch Court, and later at the Hunt
House, Clodock, all in the county of Hereford. They married into
many notable families and possessed at different periods vast landed
estates, principally in the counties of Brecon, Hereford and Mon-
mouth.
THE OLD CHURCH OF WHITCHURCH, 1792.
(From a Drawing by Mrs. Simeoe in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
During the troublous times of the Conquest, and for some
centuries after, the Gwillims were actively engaged in warfare, some-
times holding their commissions from the Welsh princes and some-
times from the English kings. At the Wigga, Rowleston, Hereford-
shire, there are papers relating to farms that had been given to
Gwillims more than eight hundred years ago for their services in
the army.
The history of the family entwines with the well-known and
historical Herbert family, of which the Gwillims are a branch, both
paternally and maternally. William, eldest son of Howel-ap-
Thomas, Lord of Perthhir, was the first of the family to adopt a
3
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
surname, in conformity with the English law, and the first pat-
ronymic of Ap-Howel became corrupted with Powell. Gwillim
Dhu (William Herbert), Earl of Pembroke (beheaded at Banbury in
1469), was commanded by the King, Edward IV., to take the surname
of "Herbert" in memory of his illustrious ancestor Henry Fitz
Herbert, Chamberlain to King Henry I. The Gwillims seem to have
adopted "Gwillim" as a surname about the same timo, one Robert
tjrwillim, son of Gwillim ap Thomas and Margaret, daughter and heir
-of Sir James Abrahall, Knt. of Ingestone, 'County Hereford, being
according to Francis Townsend, Windsor Herald in 1806, the first to
do so. Prior to the edict of Edward IV. it had always been "the Welsh
custom to change the surname at every descent." Hence the
Welsh were always most careful to preserve
authentic evidence of their family records.
The writings on this interesting document
have been summarized from its beginning. It
will be noted that the name of Gwillim first
appears about the time of Edward IV. This
summary shows an unbroken line back to Wil-
liam I., of England, commonly called the
Conqueror, and also to the ancient kings of
Xorth and South Wales.
The arms granted to the Gwillim family are
here given:
Argent a lion rampant Ermines, collared Or.
Crest A dexter arm embowed in armour proper
grasping a broken sword argent.
The introductory paragraph or preamble as
written by the Windsor Herald reads :
GWILLIM.
"The Genealogy of the ancient family of
Gwillim deduced to Mrs. Elizabeth P. Simcoe,
wife of Lieut.-General John Graves Simcoe. Tracing her descent
paternally from the ancient British Lords of Brecon from Henry
Fitz Herbert, who was Chamberlain to King Henry the First and
from King William the Conqueror; and paternally and maternally
through Sir Giles de Brewes or De Braisosa, Lord of Buckingham
in the time of King- Edward the First, from William de Braisosa,
one of the Conqueror's companions whose posterity were Lords of
Brembre, Brecon, and Gower and from the ancient Earls of Clare,
Gloucester, Pembroke, Hereford and Derby and other of the most
noble and illustrious families of England and Wales, compiled from
public records and other authentic evidences by me, Francis ; Town-
send, Windsor Herald, MDCCCVI."
Then follows the line of descent :
Gundreda, daughter of William the Conqueror, married William,
Earl of Warren and Surrey. She died in 1085 and was followed
4
ABMS OF GWILLIM.
THE FAMILY OF GWILLIM
in 1088 by her husband, who, the records show, was buried in Lewis
Priory.
The line is continued through Maynarch, Lord of Brecon, through
whom also is traced the descent from the Welsh kings, he being the
fourteenth in descent from Kariadoe Vrachfras and the daughter and
heir of Pelinor, King of North Wales.
Maynarch married Ellen, daughter of Eynon ap Selif, Lord of
Cwminwd, and their second son was Blethyn ap Maynarch, Lord of
Brecon, who married Elinor, daughter of Twdwr Mawr, King of
South Wales, 1077 to 1091, and sister of Prince Rhys.
In 1090 A.D., Blethyn was slain by Bernard Newmarch, who
became Lord of Brecon. Blethyn's second son, Gwrgan ap Blethyn,
appears in the records as Lord of Llangorse.
Gwrgan ap Blethyn married Gwenllian, daughter and sole heir
of Philip Gwy?, Lord of Wilton. Their second son, Traharne ap
Gwrgan, was the next Lord of Llangorse and married Joan,
daughter of Sir Aaron ap Bledry, Kn't.
Howel ap Traharne succeeded his father and married Gwenllian,
(laughter and heir of Griffith ap Eynon of Senighenith in County
Glamorgan. During his lifetime he waged prolonged but unsuc-
cessful wars against the Lord of Brecon in an attempt to win back
the ancient seat of his family.
At his death, Howell was succeeded by his son, Rees ap Howell,
also known as Henry II L, of Aberllfni, who married Katherine,
daughter of Griffith Gwyre.
The line then comes through a cadet branch of the family,
descended from Eynon Says ap Rees ap Howell, third son of Rees
ap Howell, who succeeded to the family estate of Lywell, County of
Brecon. The family burying-place was at Crych-Einon. The family
arms are given as "Argent, 3 cocks gules."
Eynon Says ap Rees ap Howell married Joan, daughter and
heir of Howell ap Meredith ap Cradock ap Justin, her mother being
Ann, daughter of Gwilliin of Llewellyn-Lagar ap Ivor ap Einon.
Their son was named Howell ap Eynon.
Howell ap Eynon married Llelles Lettice, daughter and sole heir
of Cadwallader ap Gruff ap Sitsile, Lord of Gwent, and had for
heir Howell Vychan ap Howell, who took for his arms "a fees
between two arming swords."
Howell Vychan married Ellen, daughter and heir of Llewellyn
ap Howell-hen.
Their third son, Llewellyn ap Howell Vychan, married Malltion,
daughter and co-heir of Jevau ap Rees ap Jevan. The family arms
were "A lion rampant, sable armed, or."
Thomas ap Lin ap Howell, eighth son of Llewellyn and Malltion,
succeeded to the family arms, which are given during his generation
as "Argent, a lion rampant, sable armed, or." He married Mar-
garet, daughter and co-heir of Philip ap Adam of Llanvair, Gelgedyn.
5
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
The name Gvvillim, which afterwards became the family name,
first appears as the given name of the son of Thomas ap Lin and
Margaret Gwillim ap Thomas, who is the next in line and who
married Margaret, daughter and heir of Sir John Ahrahall, Knight
of Ingestone, Co. Hereford. '
Robert, son of Gwillim ap Thomas and Margaret, took his father's
name as a surname and was known as Robert Gwillim of Treken-
THE GWILLIM TOMB AT WHITCHURCH.
(From a Drawing in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
keved. All the information given as to his wife is that she was the
"Daughter of Egerton."
Thomas Gvvillim succeeded his father Robert and is known in
the records as Thomas Gvvillim of Llangonoke. His wife was the
"Daughter of Milbourne," and their sons were: (1) John Gwillim
of Trerise, who died unmarried in 1600, and (2) William Gwillim,
of Trekenkeved.
SIMCOE-GWILLIM CONNECTION
William Gwillim married Margery, daughter of Thomas Vaughan
of Trevervyn, and the line to Mrs. Simcoe is continued through his
third son, Thomas Gwillim, of Whitchurch.
Thomas Gwillim married Barbara, daughter and co-heir of
Walter Powell of Whitchurch, who was descended in a direct line
from Robert Corbet, to whom King Henry I. gave the town of
Alcester ("In Com. Warn."). Corbet's daughter, Lucy, married
Henry Fitz Herbert, the famous Chamberlain of King Henry I., and
it was from this marriage that the family sprang of which Barbara
Powell was a descendant.
- Thomas Gwillim was succeeded in 1634 by his son Rudhall
Gwillim, of AVhitchurch, who married Jane, daughter of Edmund
Fox, of Leighton Court ("aforesaid"). They had two sons: (1)
Thomas, who died unmarried, and (2) Eichard Gwillim.
Richard Gwillim of Whitchurch, who succeeded to the estate
in 1683 at the age of 54, married Margaret, daughter of Charles
Price, of Llanfoist in the County of Monmouth.
Then their son, Thomas Gwillim of Whitchurch Court, married
Sophia, daughter of Selwyn of Matson, County of Gloucester.
Thomas and Sophia had two sons, Selwyu who died unmarried,
and Thomas Gwillim who succeeded his father and married Elizabeth,
daughter and co-heir of Elmes Stuart of Cotterstock, High Sheriff
of the County of Northampton.
The children of Thomas Gwillim and Elizabeth Stuart were
Jasper and Elmes, who died without issue, Henrietta Maria and
Sophia, two daughters who died unmarried and were buried at
Whitchurch, and Thomas Gwillim who succeeded to the estate.
This Thomas Gwillim of Whitchurch Court was a lieutenant-
colonel in the Army and died in 1766 and was buried in Gibraltar.
His wife was Elizabeth, daughter and co-heir of Elmes Spinckes, who
died at Aldwinkle, Sept. 22nd, 1762, and is buried there.
Thomas and Elizabeth were cousins on the maternal side. Mrs.
Gwillim died in 1766. The only child of this marriage was
Elizabeth Posthuma, so culled because she was born subsequent to
the death of her father. She married John Graves Simcoe of Wol-
ford on December 30th, 1782, and died at Wolford, January 17th,
1850.
The Simcoes were related to the Creed family of Northampton-
shire, through the Gwillims. The connection is shown as follows:
Sir Edward Montague, Knt., created Earl of Sandwich, July
12th, 1661, and from present Earl, 1806.
Nicholas Stuart of Pattishull, aforesaid, J. P. for County, living
1682, aged 57, married Susanna, daughter of Anthony Elmes and at
length co-heir, living 1681.
Sir Thomas Elmes, Knt. (bro. of Susanna) of Lilford, High
Sheriff of said County, 1670, died without issue.
7
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Sir Sydney Montague, Knt. Master of the Requests (living 1G18)
married Paulina, daughter of John Pepys of Cottenham, Co. of
Cambridge.
Elizabeth,, daughter of Sir Sydney Montague, Knt., married Sir
Gilbert Pickering of Tichmarsh, County of Northampton, Bart, of
Nova Scotia.
John Creed of Oundle, County Northampton, Gent., married Eliza-
beth, daughter of Sir Gilbert Pickering, Bart, of Nova Scotia.
Elizabeth, daughter of John Creed, Esquire, born 1672, married
1692, died 1742, buried at Whitchurch married Elmes Stuart of
Cotterstock, County Northampton, High Sheriff of said County, Ano.
12, Wm. III., aged 26 years, 1682, living 1710.
Anne, daughter and co-heir, died unmarried and was buried at
Whitclmrch.
Jemima, daughter and co-heir of Elmes Stuart of Cotterstock,
aforesaid, Esq., died at Aldwinkle, 26th May, 1763; married Elmes
Spinckes, Esq., Lord of the Manor of Warrington, County Northamp-
ton, died at Kidwarke. The issue of the marriage was a daughter who
married Thomas Gwillim, the father of Mrs. John Graves Simcoe.
This closes the summary.
Thomas Gwillim, as before stated, died at Gibraltar in 1766, seven
months before the birth of his daughter, and his
widow died a few hours after the birth.
The child thus born was named Elizabeth
Posthuma. She married Lieutenant-Colonel John
Graves Simcoe, who was born in 1752 at Cotter-
stock in Northamptonshire, the ceremony being
performed in SS. Mary and Giles, the Church
of Buckerall parish in Devon in 1782. Colonel
Simcoe, afterwards a general and the first Lieu-
tenant-Governor of Upper Canada, died in 1806
in Exeter. Mrs. Simcoe, his widow, died in
1850. Both husband and wife are buried in the
COLONEL GWILLIM. east end of the private chapel erected by the
General on the estate of Wolf ord. General Simcoe
was the only surviving son of Captain John Simcoe, R.N., of Cotter-
stock, who married Catherine Stamford on 8th August, 1747. The
marriage took place in Bath Abbey. At the time Captain Simcoe
was in command of the "Prince Edward." Afterwards he was pro-
moted to H.M.S. "Pembroke" and died of pneumonia while his ship
was off the island of Anticosti in the St. Lawrence River, on 15th
May, 1759, four months before the capitulation of Quebec.
The following is an extract from the Registers of the Abbey
Church of SS. Peter and Paul, Bath, regarding the marriage of Cap-
tain Simcoe:
"1747, August 8th, John Simcoe, Esqr., commander of His
Majesties ship Prince Edward and Catherine Stamford, spinster, of
Walcott, were married by License."
EARLY HOME OF ELIZABETH GWILLIM
Part of the city of Bath is now in the parish of Walcott, and
although search has been made in the registers of the parish church,
which date from 1694, no trace can be found of the name of Stamford.
After the death of Mrs. Gwillim, the daughter was most tenderly
cared for by her aunt, Mrs. Graves, a sister of her mother and wife
of Samuel Graves of Hembury Fort, three miles from Wolford in
Devon, who was Admiral of the White in 1717. There is a monu-
ment in Buckerall parish church to the memory of Admiral Graves.
To the west of Honiton one looks over a space of comparatively
flat country, to the northwest overshadowed by St. Gyres Hill, and
further north is the bold height of Dumpdon. On the top of this
hill are the remains of an oval camp, and a few miles away the
better known camp called Hembury Fort. The Fort stands very
high and looks south to the sea beyond the vale of the river Otter,
THE RESIDENCE KNOWN AS HEMBURY FORT.
(From a Drat
the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
and west to Haldon and the fringes of Dartmoor over Exeter. Three
ramparts surround the fort, which covers a large space of ground.
It is oval in shape, divided into two parts by an earthwork and
enclosed by a triple "vallum" or line of palisades. Several Roman
coins and an iron "lar" in the form of a small female figure three
inches high, representing a goddess who presided over the fortunes
of the home, have been found there. Past Honiton ran the great
Roman road of the Fosseway to Totnes, and according to some authori-
ties, on into Cornwall. It is thought that the Romans, in making
these famous roads, usually followed the line of the oldest British ways.
Of Elizabeth Gwillim's very early youth little is known. Her aunt
was most affectionate in disposition, a tender, kind and lovable woman,
who in a thoroughly Christian spirit accepted the responsibilities
9
DIARY OF MES. SIMCOE
of watching over her sister's child. This much may be gathered
from the Graves' correspondence.
The years were not slow in passing with Miss Gwillim. As a
child she evinced a natural ability that surprised her governesses.
She gathered knowledge as eagerly as she gathered the wild flowers
by the roadside, of which she was so passionately fond.
MRS. SIMCOE IN WELSH DRESS.
(From, a Miniature at Wolford.)
She loved to ramble through the woods, where she could repro-
duce bits of landscapes that are still so charming all around Hem-
bury Fort. Her delight as a girl was to be skilled in pencil, pen,
and water-color work; and be it said that some of her water-colors
that hang to-day on the walls at Wolford bear excellent evidence of
10
GIRLHOOD DAYS
her artistic skill. It was readily admitted by all who met her at Hem-
bury Fort that Mrs. Graves had in her niece Elizabeth an accom-
plished relative.
As a linguist Miss Gwillim was an apt pupil. She spoke German
and French fluently and ventured occasionally to converse in Spanish
when opportunity offered. To a letter from Miss Burgess, a friend
at Tracey, near Honiton, Devonshire, she replied with one in
Spanish.
She was fond of gaiety and outdoor life. To rahirl in the dance,
to cross country with the hounds,
seemed second nature to her,
while to tramp through the
woods and along the rural roads
with her young friends was one
of the ordinary enjoyments of
her life. Though she had an ex-
cellent ear for music, she never
sang or played on any instru-
ment.
She was below the average
height, about five feet, not more,
and this is indicated by a satin
skirt, thirty-seven inches in
length, which she wore in her
married life when she was twenty-
five years of age, just before
leaving for Upper Canada. The
waist is missing, but the skirt
has been preserved at Wolford.
The garment was known as Mrs.
Simcoe's "presentation dress/'
'and was worn by her at the opening of the first Legislature of Upper
Canada at Niagara on the 17th September, 1792.
It was in the spring of 1782 that Colonel Simcoe first met Miss
Gwillim; and as the story of her life is so interwoven with that of
her husband, it is fitting that the reader should have some knowledge
of the family of Simcoe; for the first Governor of Upper Canada
was a man of marked ability, whose name is to-day a household word
in the great province, the government of which he inaugurated
under many difficulties.
BROCADE SKIRT WORN BY MBS. SIMCOE.
(From the Original at Wolford.)
1 1
CHAPTER II.
ANCESTORS OF JOHN GRAVES SIMCOE.
It was only in the summer of nineteen hundred and six that the
writer finally after years of research determined that the Simcoe
family was of Cheshire origin. There are no records in the papers
at Wolford in Devon which give any trace of the birthplace
or even the names of the ancestors of the first Governor of Upper
Canada. Indeed, it was only after a continuous personal quest in-
volving a careful examination of a score of parish and other records
in villages, towns and cities of Northumberland, Yorkshire, Nor-
thamptonshire, Devonshire, Cheshire, and even north to the border-
land of Berwickshire, that the writer was able to place his hand or/
documents that proved beyond doubt that the ancestors of John
Graves Simcoe were born and bred in Bunbury, a village and large
parish in West Cheshire about three miles from Tarporley and a
mile and a half southeast of Beeston Castle. This old stronghold
occupies a romantic and impregnable site on the summit of a huge
and lofty isolated rock. It was built in 1220 by the fourth Earl of
Chester and dismantled after surrender to the Parliamentary forces
in the year 1646. The parish records date from the year 1559. Mrs.
Simcoe visited the old ruin on one occasion but no date is given in
the memoranda. It was probably about 1800-1.
The first trace of the name of Simcoe was found by the writer
in the "Cantabrigiensis Graduati" of the University of Cambridge,
published in the year 1800. At page 381 of this work under the
letter "S" is the record "Simcoe, Gail., Christ, A. B., 1675" and
"Simcoe, John, Christ, A. B. 1716." The late Dr. John Peile, the
master of Christ's College, 1887-1910, informed me that "this Wil-
liam Simcoe of 1675 was the son of a William Simcoe, born at a
place not given, in Cheshire, was at school in Bunbury, and was
admitted a sizar under Mr. Lovett at Christ's College, 5th April,
1672, aged 19." The parish records show that he was born in the
parish of Bunbury. At Cambridge University and Trinity College,
Dublin, a sizar was an undergraduate of limited means, and was
allowed free commons and some other gratuities. Formerly menial
duties were imposed upon a sizar.
A memorandum on a half sheet of note paper in the papers at
Wolford states that Captain John Simcoe, K.N., father of General
Simcoe, was born at Leamside farmhouse, some miles from the city
of Durham; but other than this memorandum, though a close exam-
ination has been made of the property registers of Durham Uni-
versity, at one time owners of the farm, there is no entry to be
12
CAPTAIN JOHN SIMCOE, RN.
found containing the name of Simcoe. It should be stated that the
University records in this regard are not extant before 1752.
There are some hundreds of entries of births, marriages, and
deaths of persons named Simcoe in the parish books of Bunbury
and the adjacent parish of Acton, the earliest dating back to 1759,
but there are so many entries with Christian names alike that it is
impossible to fix upon the ancestor of William Simcoe who entered
Christ's College, in 1675. The opinion prevails at Bunbury that
"William Simcoe/' a churchwarden who died in 1664, was his
father.
GATE OF BEESTON CASTLE CHESHIRE.
(From an old Drawing in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
The same difficulty arises in determining the parentage of Captain
John Simcoe, R.N., born in 1714 and father of John Graves Simcoe.
Hodgson in his history of the parish of Long Horsley in Northum-
berland states that Captain John Simcoe was a son of the Rev.
William Simcoe, vicar of that parish, who died in June, 1714. If
this statement be true the vicar died in the year his son was born.
There are no letters or documents in the papers at Wolford too
help in a verification of Hodgson's statement. Suffice it to say
that Captain Simcoe was a distinguished naval officer. Of his early
life nothing is known. His after life shows that he was a man of
exemplary habits and character, highly educated, and had made a
13
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
special study of seamanship and naval tactics. He was thoroughly
earnest in his work, eager in the obtaining of knowledge and with
a mind most retentive, made the best use of leisure hours in per-
fecting himself so as to eventually reach the top round of the ladder
in the profession he had chosen. He had an extensive knowledge of
the classics and in mathematics he excelled. He was a voracious
reader and his cabin was the home of a small library consisting not
only of works on military and naval tactics but of the best authors
in general literature. Through the influence of his father he entered
the Royal Navy as a midshipman in 1730. The name of the ship
is not on record.
In 1737 he was promoted to a lieutenancy and in 1743 at twenty-
nine years of age he obtained a captain's commission. In 1747 he
was in command of H.M. Ship "Prince Edward." His ability was
recognized in many ways by the Admiralty, and his advice was often
sought in considering questions of grave import. He was one of the
members of the court-martial on the trial of Admiral Byng
(1756-7).
About four years before the capitulation of Quebec he drew up/
a plan, and wrote an able paper suggesting the manner in which
not only the ancient city could be captured, but how Canada could
be possessed by the British Crown. He addressed this document to
Lord Barrington, who was Secretary of War 1755-61 ; and the latter
after giving the paper a careful reading complimented Captain Simcoe
on its excellence, and said that when the time came to act, his sug-
gestions would have due consideration.
Another paper entitled "Maxims of Conduct," or, as it is also
called, "Rules for Your Conduct," was written in 1752 by Capt.
Simcoe for the guidance of young officers in the naval and military
service, and for the edification of his sons. It is an admirable
paper, unexcelled in stvle and diction, as worthy of perusal in these
modern days as when it was penned a hundred and fifty-nine years
ago.
After his marriage with Catherine Stamford Captain John
Simcoe decided that he would make his home in Cotterstock,
a village about a mile from the old town of Oundle in Northamp-
tonshire: Four children, all sons, were issue of this marriage,
Paulet William, John, John Graves, and Percy William. The first
and second sons died in infancy, and the fourth was drowned in
1764 at Sandy Point above the head of the river Exe near Exeter.
On August 22nd, 1747, Captain John Simcoe was granted by the
Garter and Clarenceux Kings of Arms, the arms and crest here given,
namely: Azure, a fesse wavy ermine, between two stars of twelve
points in chief and a cannon barwise in base or, and for his crest,
out of a naval cross or a demi sea lion proper holding in his fore fin a
mariner's cross staff erect or and on his shoulder a rose gules seeded
proper. In October, 1747, application was made by Captain Simcoe
for an alteration in his arms. The extract from the official document,
14
DEATH OF CAPTAIN SIMCOE
dated 4th November, 1747, regarding the granting of this alteration,
reads: "The crest depicted on the other side granted to John
Simcoe of Chelsea, in the County of
Middlesex, Esq., and his descendants is
hereby altered from out of a naval crown
or a demi sea lion proper holding in
his fore fin a mariner's cross staff erect
or and on his shoulder a rose gules
seeded proper, to out of a naval crown
or a demi sea lion proper, holding in
his fore fin a dagger erect argent, the
pomel and hilt gold and on his shoulder
a rose gules barbed and seeded proper
as the same is in the margin hereof more
plainly depicted/'
Captain Simcoe joined H. M. Ship
"Pembroke," 60 guns, in 1757, as com-
mander, with Mr. James Cook as master,
and in 1759 sailed for Canada with the
fleet under Admiral Saunders. Mr. Cook
was afterwards the celebrated navigator
who in 1768 circumnavigated the globe
in the "Endeavor"; and in later years he
declared that he was under many obliga-
tions to Captain Simcoe, for from him he
had received a great part of his training
in "navigation and seamanship." Captain
Simcoe, however, was never to reap the
reward of his years of study in naval work,
for on Tuesday, May 15th, 1759, while the "Pembroke" was near-
ing the island of Anticosti he died of pneumonia and was buried
at sea at six o'clock on the evening of the
17th.
Mrs. Simcoe, on receiving the sad news of the
death of her husband on the "Pembroke," decided
to leave Cotterstock, where she had spent many
happy years, and remove to Exeter. She had
friends in Devon, several of whom resided in
Exeter, and she felt that the advantages for the
education of her children would be much greater
in a city, possessing better schools than Oundle/
She accordingly rented a dwelling in the Cathedral
City and determined that her life's aim should be
the care and education of her boys.
But her cup of sorrow was not yet full. The CAPT. JAMES COOK.
death by drowning of her fourth son, Percy, sad-
dened Mrs. Simcoe's heart for years ; however, with an affection that
was intensified by her affliction, she devoted her life to her surviving
15
ARMS OF JOHN SIMCOE.
DIAEY OF MES. SIMCOE
son and to a certain extent outlived the last great sorrow that fell to
her lot.
The future Governor of Upper Canada was an apt pupil. He
received his primary education at the Free Grammar School in
Exeter and in 1766, in his fourteenth year, he was sent to Eton.
On 4th February, 1769, while in his sixteenth year, he entered
Merton College, Oxford, and matriculated. There is no record of
his graduation. It is said that owing to ill-health he was compelled
to withdraw from college at the end of his first year. He accord-
ingly returned to his mother's home in Exeter and with the assist-
ance of a tutor he devoted the years 1770-1 to the acquiring of
general knowledge and especially to the subject of military tactics,
for he had the promise of an ensign's commission from friends of his
mother in the War Office.
In 1771 at the age of nineteen he entered the army as an ensign
in the 35th Regiment of Foot. He sailed on the outbreak of the
war of the American Eevolution for New England and joined his
regiment in June at Boston a few days after the historic battle
of Bunker Hill, or rather Breed's Hill; for that is where tb battle
took place on the 17th of June, 1775.
His anxiety to be of service to the Crown was shown by his offer
to raise a corps of negroes for service in New England; but not-
withstanding the strong influence of Admiral Graves, his godfather,
who was in command of the fleet, his offer was declined by General
Gage, who was in command of the forces. While his regiment was
stationed in Boston he acted as adjutant, but there is no record of
his appointment. At the evacuation of Boston in March, 1776, he
embarked with General Howe's army for Halifax.
During his stay in Halifax he purchased a captaincy in the
grenadier company of the 40th Eegiment, and when New York was
threatened with attack he sailed with the forces
early in June for Staten Island and disembarked
with the army on 3rd July, 1776. He took an
active part in the military operations in Long
Island and the Jerseys during the summer and
won commendation for his services.
While at winter quarters at Brunswick in 1776
he went to New York to see Sir William Howe
and ask for the command of the Queen's Eangers,
which was then vacant. But driven by stress of
weather out of its course, the boat in -which he
sailed was delayed and he arrived at headquarters
QTT, WTTT * some hours too late, for the position had been
o! U W 1LL.IAM JlOW.h. r-n -i -r 11 n -i i -i-i i
filled. In the summer of 1777, still bent on an
independent command, he wrote to General Grant, under whom he
had served, requesting his influence in the securing of a "command
similar to that of the Queen's Eangers; but there were no vacancies,
and once more he was disappointed. The Queen's Eangers were at
16
JOHN GRAVES SIMCOE
that time commanded by Major Weymess. Shortly afterwards, on
the llth September, was fought the battle of the Brandywine. Simcoe
led his company of the 40th Regiment and received a wound, from
which he never fully recovered, although he was able to resume his
duties.
At last his ambitions were realized, for on the 15th of October,
1777, Captain Simcoe was nominated major commander of the cele-
brated Provincial regiment known as the Queen's Rangers, which
became under him one of the most efficient and gallant corps .that
took part in the War of the Revolution. It was at this time encamped
with the army in the vicinity of Germantown, near Philadelphia.
In June, 1778, he received from Sir Henry Clinton the local
rank of lieutenant-colonel of the Rangers. In an action in 1779
he had a narrow escape for his life and was taken prisoner. He
obtained his release on the 31st of December, 1779, and returned
to his regiment. His Majesty on the 19th of December, 1781, was
pleased to confer upon him the rank of a lieutenant-colonel in the
army, the duties of which he had fulfilled from the year 1778. His
regiment was amongst the troops which were included in the sur-
render by General Cornwallis at Gloucester Point on the 19th of
October, 1781.
The story of his part in the campaign as colonel of the Queen's
Rangers, as told in his journal, will be found in another volume.
His journal is one of the most interesting books of its kind. It was
published in Exeter at the close of the war, and was .received most
favorably by the press and highly commended by the leading military
writers of England. Simcoe returned to England in December, 1781,
at the close of the war, married Miss Gwillim in 1782, and from
1783-7 he resided in the Cathedral City.
In 1784, the estate of Wolford, four miles from Honiton, in
the parish of Dunkeswell, Devon, was purchased by Mrs. Simcoe.
Although there was an old farmhouse on the property, a new resi-
dence was built; the estate was considerably improved during the
years 1786-7, and in 1788 Colonel Simcoe and his family left Exeter
and took up their residence at Wolford. He held the rank of
colonel in the army from the 18th of November, 1790, and in the
same year he was elected to Parliament for the borough of St. Maw's
in Cornwall. His political career, however, was of short duration,
for in. 1791 he received his commission as Lieutenant-Governor of the
new province of Upper Canada and sailed from Weymouth for Quebec
on the 26th of September in the ship " Triton," 21 guns, accompanied
by his wife and two of his children and Lieutenant Talbot.
In a despatch to the Secretary of State, Lord Dorchester had
.previously recommended Sir John Johnson as first Lieutenant-
Governor of Upper Canada. Sir John Johnson had rendered valuable
services, and in the matter of claim was entitled to consideration.
On the other hand, his appointment was undesirable, not only on
.account of his large property holdings in the new province, and
2 17
DIARY OF MBS. SIMCOE
consequent local interests, but also from the fact that the policy of
the British Government did not allow the appointment of residents
of colonies in the government of the same.
The "Triton" arrived in Quebec on the llth of November. Lord
Dorchester, the Governor-General, was on leave of absence in Eng-
land and Major-General Alured Clarke, who by the way was a
Devonian, was acting as administrator. Simcoe had been entrusted
with the commission of and instructions to the Governor- General
which were to be issued on the division of the province into Upper
and Lower Canada, together with the commission of Sir John
Johnson, Bart., as Superintendent-General of Indian affairs, and the
commission of Major-General Alured Clarke as Lieutenant-Governor
of the new Province of Lower Canada. All these documents were duly
delivered on the day following his arrival.
Simcoe presented also a personal letter from the King to H.R.H.
Prince Edward, Duke of Kent, the father of Queen Victoria, in
which His Majesty commended the newly appointed Governor io his
son, who was in command of the 7th Fusiliers, stationed at Quebec.
It should be stated that Governor Simcoe was offered by the War
Office before his departure for Canada the rank of Brigadier-General ;
but he declined the promotion because he foresaw that unless His
Royal Highness should be promoted at the same time, his acceptance
would place him above the King's son.
Moreover, Governor Simcoe understood that such promotion
was not desired by Prince Edward, and from general belief it was
also not his Majesty's intention to confer it. Governor Simcoe had
always a dislike to nominal rank. His local Provincial rank in
America was senior to that of Major-General Alured Clarke, for
early in 1778 Simcoe had been gazetted a lieutenant-colonel, though
of course ranking as the youngest of the service.
The Governor in a letter to Mr. Dundas on the 6th September,
1791, said: "I by no means wish to command or to wound the
feelings of a senior officer, much less to interfere with the just pre-
tensions of the son of my Sovereign."
The official proclamation and the text of the Act dividing the
old province of Canada into two provinces was issued on 18th No-
vember, 1791, a week after the Governor's arrival in Quebec, and
was published in the Quebec Gazette of December 1st, 1791. The
natal day of the new provinces was fixed for the 26th of December.
General Alured Clarke was duly sworn in as Lieutenant-Governor
of the Province of Lower Canada, but being administrator in the
absence of the Governor- General he occupied a different position from
that of Governor Simcoe. When the proclamation was issued for
the division of the province, Lieutenant-Governor Clarke had full
powers as regards his own government, but he had no authority to
deal in any way with the affairs of the civil government of the Prov-
ince of Upper Canada. But, at the same time, acting as administrator,
18
APPOINTMENT AS LIEUTENANT-GOVERNOR
he could exercise all the prerogatives and powers of the Governor-in-
Chief in either province.
The Act of 1791 making further provision for the government of
the province of Quebec is familiarly known as the Act for dividing
the province of Quebec into the provinces of Upper and Lower Canada.
But Mr. Avern Pardoe in his excellent paper on "The First Chapter
of Upper Canada History" (Ontario Historical Society Transactions,
Vol. VII.) points out, the creation of the new provinces was an Act
of the King under his royal prerogative. The Crown divided
Quebec by proclamation and Parliament's duty and privilege in the
matter was to provide a constitution for them.
The statute quoted enacts that these provinces which the King has
created shall have a Legislative Council and Assembly and that these
shall be assembled by the Governor or Lieutenant- Governor. But
there is nothing in the Act authorizing the appointment of a Gov-
ernor or Lieutenant-Governor. That is another prerogative of the
Crown in these days exercised on advice but hardly so in the days
of George III. Nor does the Act contain any information as to the
extent of the powers conferred upon the Governor or the Lieutenant-
Governor of the Province. That is yet another prerogative of the
Crown. The powers of the Governor and Lieutenant-Governor are
those conferred upon them by their commissions and instructions.
Lieutenant-Governor Simcoe seems to have been from the first at a
loss to know his exact relations to the Governor-General, Lord Dor-
chester. The commission of and instructions to Lord Dorchester
as Governor-in-Chief and Captain-General over the provinces of
Upper and Lower Canada issued on the division of the province, were
brought out by Simcoe as before said, and Simcoe's own instruc-
tions directed him to read Dorchester's instructions and conduct
himself accordingly.
The power of the Governor-General was almost unlimited. The
whole duty of the Lieutenant-Governor was to follow out the instruc-
tions of the Governor-in-Chief. There were no instructions issued
to Governor Simcoe other than his commission and the injunction
to regard Dorchester's instructions, neither is there record of any in-
structions having been addressed to Simcoe. His commission, which
was simply a few hundred words appointing him as Lieutenant-
Governor, contained nothing that would throw light on the extent of
the powers the Lieutenant-Governor should exercise.
Simcoe felt that in accepting office he should in the main have
been free to administer the affairs of the province as one endowed
with authority, and that he should not be hampered with edicts
and instructions from Quebec, but should have the right to com-
municate direct with the home authorities. As a matter of fact
he did so communicate.
In the Simcoe correspondence there is a letter from Sir George
Yonge in connection with the military force, giving an "extract from
the instructions given to the civil Governor."
19
DJAKY OF MKS. S1MCOE
These instructions show that, where no specific orders have been
given by the Commander-in-Chief or by the General commanding
the district, the civil Governor-in-Council may give orders for the
inarching of troops and other military services; but such order must
be repeated to the Commander-in-Chief, and that the Civil Governor
must not interfere with the detail of the military regimental duty.
The complexity of the situation and the delay in getting his
government formed was galling to Simcoe. He foresaw that he would
be virtually cribbed, cabined, and confined in Quebec for the winter,
and that he was absolutely powerless to make any immediate move
in the direction of occupying his seat of government.
Meanwhile he occupied his time with various matters that con-
cerned the new province. Many months before his departure from
England, indeed before the Canada Act of May, 1791, was passed,
he had considered the policy he would pursue in conducting his new
government; for, of course, he knew at that time his appointment
was assured.
One of Simcoe's first suggestions was the raising of a military
force for service within the limits of the province. This suggestion
Avas assented to in August of 1791, the corps being known as the
Queen's Eangers. Another was that he should be permitted to visit
Philadelphia, where the United States Congress was sitting, to
discuss and mediate on the Indian question. But this suggestion
was not acted upon.
Even in regard to the administration of justice in Upper Canada
the Governor's hands were tied ; for, as there was no majority of his
Council in Canada, the oaths could not be administered. He, there-
fore, had no power to issue a proclamation. This was after the
division of the provinces was proclaimed. Major-General Alured
Clarke could act for Lower Canada, but Governor Simcoe, until he
had taken the oath, had no legal power. This difficulty might have
affected the organization of courts in Upper Canada, but when Judge
Powell was appointed to hold court in Kingston in December, the
difficulty was overcome by him, as, on the advice of Chief Justice
Smith, he did not raise the question of authority to hold court in the
new province.
Simcoe now occupied a singular position. By virtue of his com-
mission he was the Governor of the new province of Upper Canada,
but, notwithstanding, had no military command ; and as regards his
own military rank, he could not avail himself of his colonelcy until
the corps the Queen's Eangers, of which he was Commander
or part of it, was actually on service under him. This restriction
was specifically set forth to Governor Simcoe in a letter from Sir
George Yonge, the Secretary of State, on September 21st, 1791.
Simcoe knew that the Rangers would not arrive until the summer
of 1792 and keenly resented the inevitable delay in the recognition
of his rank.
20
TAKES OATHS OF OFFICE
Furthermore, his civil powers' as Lieutenant-Governor were not
operative until a meeting of the Executive Council had been convened
and the oaths of office administered. Four members of this body
had been nominated by the authorities in London, namely, William
Osgoode, William Robertson, Alexander Grant and Peter Russell.
Mr. Grant was the only member who had arrived in Canada. Thus,,
in the absence of a majority of his Council, the Governor had
practically to mark time and await their arrival.
Simcoe saw clearly the situation and at once applied to England
for permission to nominate James Baby, of Detroit, as one of the
three Councillors required and asked permission
to appoint two more so that the seven members
required by the act would meet and initiate the
business of organizing the government of the
new province. In June, however, Osgcode and
Russell arrived, and with Baby made a quorum.
The appointment followed of John Munro, of
Matilda, in January, 1792, and later of Richard
Cartwright, jr., of Kingston, Robert Hamilton,
of Niagara and Richard Duncan, of Rapid du
Plat. The Council was now complete. William H J AMES BABY
Robertson, however, never came to Canada but
resigned, his place being filled in June, 1793. by the appointment of
Aeneas Shaw.
All this delay was vexatious to Simcoe. True, he and his wife
were the recipients of unbounded hospitality from the military, civil,
and social leaders of the old capital, but the Governor was a man of
active habit and eager to journey to his new province.
At the end of May and in the second week of June two divisions
of the Queen's Rangers arrived at Quebec, and some weeks later
reached the new province.
Governor Simcoe had paid a short visit to Montreal in December/
1791, but did not go further west. On the 8th June, 1792, with his.
family and Lieutenants Grey and Talbot he left Quebec for Kingston
in bateaux, arriving in Montreal on the 17th, leaving there on the
27th and reaching Kingston on the 1st of July. On the 8th of July
the Governor repaired to the Protestant church, and there the oaths
were administered by Chief Justice Osgoode. The Honorable James
Baby and the Honorable Peter Russell, together with the magistrates
and principal inhabitants of the town, were present ; and the ceremon-
ial must have been, so far as the primitive environment permitted, of
a very impressive character. A note containing the minutes of the
Executive Council in connection with this event is given in its proper
place in Mrs. Simcoe's diary for July, 1792.
From Kingston, Governor Simcoe, with his family and suite,
sailed on the Government schooner "Onondaga" for Niagara, where
they arrived on the 26th July, 1792. Navy Hall was undergoing,
alteration?. These were not completed, so by the Governor's orders
21
DIARY OF MKS. SIMCOE
three marquees were pitched on the hill above the Hall. In these
the Governor's family and suite were housed pending the completion
of the alterations. Navy Hall had been originally built by Governor
Haldimand for the use of the naval officers on the lakes. During
Simcoe's time some additions were made. One of these was a council
chamber, and it was used as a ball-room where Mrs. Simcoe enter-
tained. Simcoe's work in the way of organizing the Provincial
Government and carrying on the affairs of the Province, will be told
in another volume.
Simcoe was energetic in his administration and was inspired by
a determination to do his best for the people he was called upon to
govern. The first Legislature was called on 17th September, 1792,
at Navy Hall, Niagara, and was prorogued on the 15th of October.
There has always been some doubt as to the building and the place
where the first Legislature met. Some assert that the meeting was
held in a tent pitched on the common above Fort George. This
ground was marked 'by an old oak tree known as the "Parliament
Oak." A picture of this tree in decay is in the Museum, Niagara-on-
the-Lake. Another writer asserts that the Legislature met in Free-
masons' Hall, Niagara. The records of the Upper Canada Gazette,
however, dispose of all doubts, for in the issue of that paper of 18th
April, 1793, the words "Government House, Navy Hall" are used,
and on 3rd July, 1794, the same words are used, while on the 10th
of August, 1794, Governor Simcoe calls the members to appear at
"our Government House, Navy Hall." On the 14th of August, 1794,
the latter expression is again used.
During Simcoe's term from 1792-6 five sessions of the Legislature
were held at Niagara, in one of the four buildings known as Navy
Hall, for there was no accommodation for the Legislature at York.
The buildings at York were not ready for occupation till 1797, the
year following Simcoe's departure. Rochefoucauld in his "Tour
Through Upper Canada," 1795, writes that "during our residence
at Navy Hall the session of the Legislature of Upper Canada was
opened." He does not indicate any building other than "Navy Hall"
and says the Governor "dressed in silk entered the hall with his hat
on his head, attended by his adjutant and two secretaries."
Eight acts were considered and passed. The ancient laws of the
Province of Quebec were abolished, the laws of England were to
prevail, and all forms of law and equity were to be in conformity
with the British rules of evidence. Trial by jury was established and
provision made for the recovery of small debts. Jails and court
houses were to be erected in the four Districts, the Eastern, the
Middle, the Home and the Western. A marriage bill was introduced
with the view of legalizing all irregular marriages, for at this period
no marriage ceremony was legal unless performed by a clergyman of
the Church of England. It was, therefore, necessary that all past
marriages should be legalized and a law provided for the future vali-
dation of all such unions.
22
SIMCOE AXD DOECHESTER
But this act was withdrawn and another act was drawn during
the recess, submitted to the authorities in England, and was then
passed by the Legislative Assembly and assented to by the Governor.
Shortly after the prorogation of the first Assembly the publication of
the Upper Canada Gazette or American Oracle, the official
journal of the province, was commenced.
In February, 1793, General Simcoe visited the western parts of
the Province, accompanied by Major Littlehales, Captain Fitzgerald,
Lieutenant Smith of the 5th Regiment, and Lieutenants Talbot, Grey
and Givins. They proceeded west to the Mohawk village on the Grand
River, then to the Moravian Settlement of the Delaware Indians, and
returned by way of the present site of London, Ont., which at a later
date Simcoe suggested as a proper place for the capital of the prov-
ince.
On' the 2nd May, 1793, he visited the site of Toronto for the
first time and decided to call the new town York "in consideration
and compliment of the Duke of York's victories in Flanders." But
it was not until the 26th August, 1793, that the official notification
of the name was published.
In 1793, Simcoe directed also the making of a roadway to the
western part of the province, the present Dundas Street, and named
it after the Right Hon. Henry Dundas, Secretary of State for the
Colonies. In May, 1794, he paid his second visit to the site of his
new capital (now Toronto), and ordered Mr. Alexander Aitken, a
Government surveyor, to make a plan of the town. He also selected
the site for a fort at the west end of the town so as to command the
mouth of the harbor. This fortification was destroyed in 1813, but
rebuilt in 1816, and is now (1911) being restored by the corporation
of Toronto under agreement with the Dominion Government.
It must be remembered that Lord Dorchester, the Governor-Gen-
eral, was on leave of absence and did not return to Canada until
September of 1793. From the date of Lord Dorchester's return down
to the date of Simcoe's departure from Canada, there was constant
friction between the Governor-General and the Lieutenant-Governor
of Upper Canada. Indeed, it looked as if Dorchester had determined
to make Simcoe's position as uncomfortable as possible. Simcoe had
not forgotten the "unjust, humiliating and disgraceful order," as he
termed it, issued by Guy Carleton in 1783, concerning a charge made
against the Queen's Rangers as being guilty of "plundering and
marauding" on Long Island Sound during the War of the Revolu-
tion, a charge, by the way, that was without foundation. The official
correspondence shows that Dorchester seized every opportunity to
clog the wheels of Simcoe's .Government. As an example of this
unfriendliness Dorchester compelled Simcoe to change the system
of contracting for supplies and he ordered the change in a manner
that was most mortifying.
Then again, Simcoe was strongly against the proposal of Dor-
chester to erect a fort in the Indian territory on the Maumee River.
25
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Dorchester insisted that the fort should be established and his order
was carried out by Simcoe. He did not agree with Simcoe on the
choice of London as the capital of Upper Canada; and when Simcoe
objected to Dorchester's policy of removing the best part of the
troops from Upper Canada and taking them to Quebec, the Governor-
General wrote to Simcoe saying that he would act on his own
judgment irrespective of the opinion expressed by Simcoe. The
official correspondence of the time teems with passages at arms
between Dorchester, Simcoe, and the Duke of Portland.
Simcoe, of course, had carried on official correspondence during
his term with the authorities at London. Dorchester naturally
thought that Simcoe should use the Governor-in-Chief as the medium
of communication. Indeed, Dorchester complained that he had not
been treated as the Governor-in-Chief should be ; and that the author-
ities in London, that is, the Duke of Portland, had no right to
receive official communications from the Lieutenant- Governor, who
was subordinate to the Governor-in-Chief.
The poles could not be further apart than Simcoe and Dorches-
ter in their views as to the powers and prerogatives of the Governor
and Lieutenant-Governor, respectively. Dorchester would have made
the new province a military colony with forts for the protection of the
settlers. On the other hand Simcoe's aim was to bring in colonists
even American colonists and make Upper Canada a great agricul-
tural province.
Simcoe often said that the day would come when every acre of
land from the Ottawa to the Detroit River would so respond to the
call of the husbandmen that the sickle would never be idle and the
people never be in want.
The Duke of Portland tried to throw oil on the troubled waters,
but without avail. Dorchester felt that Simcoe was his inferior
officer, for he writes that Simcoe "seemed to think that he had an
independent command." Simcoe held fast to the idea that, outside of
actual military operations, he was supreme in his own province. The
neglect to furnish Simcoe with individual instructions defining
exactly his powers and duties seems to have been the cause of all
the trouble.
This continued friction and unrest between the Governor and
Lieutenant-Governor in Upper Canada led to the resignation by both
of their respective commands in the usual form of "leave of absence."
Dorchester sailed for England on the 9th July and Simcoe said
farewell to Upper Canada on the 21st July, 1796. On the 10th Sep-
tember, with his wife and children he sailed from Quebec in H. M.
Ship "Pearl," which anchored in the Downs on the 13th of October.
On disembarking, the General and his family proceeded to Dover,
Canterbury and Dartford, and on Monday, the 17th, reached Wolford.
In 1796 the British Government wanted an officer to take charge
of the forces in San Domingo. General Simcoe, who had been
gazetted Major-General on the 2nd of October, 1794, was offered the
26
SIMCOE'S LATER POSITIONS
position. He called upon the Duke of Portland, who told him that
he could retain his position of Lieutenant-Governor of Upper Canada
or go as Commander-in-'Chief of the forces in San Domingo, to succeed
Sir Ralph Abercrombie.
Simcoe accepted the new position and on the 3rd of December,
1796, he was appointed Civil Governor and Commander-in-Ohief of
the British forces in San Domingo in place of Sir Adam Williamson,
who had established the British protectorate over the island.
Simcoe was much disappointed. In a letter written to H. R. H.
the Duke of Kent on 24th November, 1801, referring to his San
Domingo appointment, Simcoe writes: "His Grace (the Duke of
Portland) expressly told me that I was to be Commander-in-Chief.
In this I was disappointed. Sir R. Abercrombie retained that office,
but with the injunction communicated to him by a letter from Mr.
Dundas, the Secretary of State, not to exercise any authority in San
Domingo," and Simcoe further adds, "I believe such an injunction
to be illegal, I am sure it was unmilitary." In this letter Simcoe
also pointed out that his "services in Canada had been slighted" in
that as Lieutenant-Governor he had a fair claim to the command of
the Royal Americans in preference to General Hunter. The letter
further shows that he was promised the position of Governor-General
of Canada and also a peerage.
In 1797 General Simcoe proceeded to his new post with instruc-
tions to aid the French in restoring, if possible, order to the island.
While the General did excellent work in his command, he became
wearied with the kind of warfare in which he was engaged, and after
eight months in the island he returned to England, either to pro-
cure a force adequate for the work or to abandon the cause. His
place was filled by his second in command, Brigadier-General Sir
Thomas Maitland, appointed 18th April, 1797. In 1798, owing to
the fear that Napoleon would seek a landing on British soil, General
Simcoe was appointed to the command of Plymouth and the Western
District, and in Felruary, 1801, he was gazetted as "Lieutenant-
General in the Army."
In 1806 the General was appointed Commander-in-Chief of the
British forces in India, to succeed Lord Lake, and he at once began
to make arrangements for departure to his far-distant command.
Mrs. Simcoe and one of her daughters had gone to London and
were busily engaged in making purchases such as would be required
in their new home, when an entire change of plan came from the
authorities in London by special messenger to Exeter, the head-
quarters of the Western District.
The order was in effect that the British Government had informa-
tion that led to the belief that an invasion of Portugal was contem-
plated by Napoleon. The orders were peremptory. The fleet under
Earl St. Vincent was cruising off Brest, whence it was ordered to
the Tagus, while Lord Rosslyn and Lieutenant-General Simcoe were
directed to join Earl St. Vincent at Lisbon.
27
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
General Simcoe had been in poor health, but by exercising the
greatest care he was able without undue exertion to cover the large
amount of work assigned to him in the command of the Western
District. He was so confident of his physical strength that he did
not hesitate to accept the India command when it was offered to
him.
Indeed it was anticipated that after the negotiations in Lisbon
lie would return to England and then proceed to India. But it was
not to be. He sickened on the voyage to Lisbon and was compelled
to return to England. There was some delay owing to the non-
arrival of the man-of-war which was ordered to convey him to Eng-
land. But on the 28th of September, 1806, he sailed on H. M. S.
"Illustrious" and on the 21st of October he landed at Topsham and
the next day was carefully driven to Exeter and taken to the house
of his friend, Archdeacon Moore, whose dwelling was in the Cathedral
Close. He was too ill to make the journey to Wolford, and on the
following Sunday, the 26th, the General passed away.
The remains of the General were embalmed and kept in Exeter
until the 4th of November in order that the funeral arrangements
might be perfected. His funeral was an imposing one and every mark
of respect was paid by the citizens and by the military authorities.
The burial took place at Wolford, fourteen miles from Exeter, and
the old Roman road over which the cortege passed was lined by the
volunteer militia of Devon. At the third mile of the journey a squad-
ron of dragoons were drawn up and escorted the remains to Wolford.
The regulars stationed at Exeter were unable to take part owing to
the fact that there was a Parliamentary election in progress and
during such an event the military were not allowed in the constit-
uency. Reaching Wolford at six o'clock in the evening, the burial
was by' torchlight in the presence of his widow and family and the
leading men of the county. The remains were interred at the east end
of the private chapel, which had been erected by the General.
28
CHAPTER III.
COURTSHIP AND MARRIAGE.
Lieutenant-Colonel Simcoe after his return in 1781 from the
American campaign, spent some days in London with the authorities
of the War Office. During that summer he journeyed to Exeter and
resolved that Devon, the county in which he had so many friends and
connections, should be his permanent home.
There is no correspondence in the manuscripts at "Wolford to
show whether his mother, to whom he was devoted, was alive at the
BUCKERALL PARISH ClIURCH, DEVON.
(From a Drawing in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
time of his return. Nor is there any record of her death to be found
in the registers of the Cathedral or of any of the churches of Exeter,
although diligent search for entries has been made by the writer.
The impression amongst the Devon connections of the family all
by marriage is that Mrs. Simcoe died in Exeter shortly before the
return of her son from the United States.
After his return the Colonel was not in the best of health. The
strenuous activities of military life in the American campaign had
told severely on his physique. He had not fully recovered from the
29
DIAEY OF MES. SIMCOE
effects of a wound he had received at the Battle of Brandywine; and,
therefore, a quiet life and perfect rest were prescribed by his physician.
He loved the balmy air of Devon and enjoyed short visits to the
country houses of friends, who delighted to welcome him ; for he had
a happy and amiable disposi-
tion, and was an entertaining
conversationalist.
But there was one country
home where his presence gave
more than ordinary pleasure. It
\vas Hembury Fort, some miles
from Honiton. Here on the site
of this old Eoman encampment
resided two old friends of his
father, Admiral and Mrs.
Graves. The Admiral was his
godfather, and out of respect
and deep regard for that officer,
Captain Simcoe, E.N., had
given his son " Graves " as one
of his Christian names. Mrs.
Graves was a sister-in-law of
Colonel Gwillim of "Old
Court " in Herefordshire.
On the first of these visits,
in the spring of 178.2, Colonel
Simcoe met Miss Gwillim. It is
BUCKERALL CHURCH INTERIOR. sa id to have been a case of love
at first sight. She was then
sixteen, petite, fair to see,
bright and entertaining, and attractive in manner. The Colonel, now
in his thirtieth year, renewed his visits ; and in this case the course
of true love ran absolutely smooth, for the engagement followed, but
no date for the wedding was fixed.
Mrs. Graves naturally thought that sixteen was rather an early age
for her niece to assume the responsibilities of married life, but what-
ever objections she offered were evidently overcome, for Samuel
Graves and Margaret Graves were witnesses to Simcoe's marriage
at Buckerall Parish Church, on the 30th of December, 1782, which
was solemnized by the Eev. Thomas Kosskilly, Curate of the Parish.
The marriage certificate reads :
"No. 60 Lieutenant-Colonel John Graves Simcoe of this Parish
and Miss Elizabeth Posthuma Gwillim of this Parish were married in
this church by License this 30th Day of December in the Year One
Thousand Seven Hundred and Eighty-two by me, Thos. Eoskilly,
Curate. This Marriage was solemnized between TJs, John Graves
Simcoe, Elizabeth Posthuma Gwillim, in the Presence of Saml.
Graves, Margaret Graves."
30
(From a Drawing in the J. Ross Robertson
collection.)
MARRIAGE OF COLONEL SIMCOE
Where the honeymoon was spent does not appear in the Wolford
MSS., but the Colonel and his wife after marriage resided in Exeter.
The Colonel felt that Devonshire was really his native county. He
had practically lived in it for twenty-three years from 1759, when
his mother and his brother Percy left Cotterstock, after the death
of his father. With this idea in his mind he determined to settle
down in some congenial spot, of which there are so many in Devon,
the most charming of all the English counties.
His wife felt as he did, and her fortune made it possible to realize
this desire. Accordingly in 1784 Wolford and the surrounding
estate were bought by Mrs. Simcoe from the heirs of Peter Geneste.
But it was not until 1788 that they made Wolford their permanent
residence, after improvements in the house had been made.
and (tit'/,
Married in this (~6u>rc bv ^(/GGHOU
this 3a*- Day of fdef^t,^ in the Year One ThoufandSevci
Hundred and g^gx -(&* by me_
This Marriage was folemnized between Us-
InthePrefenceof
$$^ftatt*ett#^^
THE SIMCOE MARRIAGE CERTIFICATE.
(From Register of Buckerall Parish Church.)
Shortly after the marriage, the College of Arms, on application,
authorized the arms here depicted to be borne by Colonel and Mrs.
Simcoe, viz., Dexter, Simcoe Azure a fesse wavy Ermine between
two stars of twelve points in chief and a cannon barwise in base or,
Sinister, Gwillim Argent, a Lion rampant, Ermines, collared Or.
Crest, Simcoe: Out of a naval crown Or a demi Sea Lion proper
holding in his fore fin a dagger erect Argent the pomel and hilt gold
and on his shoulder a Rose Gules barbed and seeded proper as hereon
depicted.
Mrs. Simcoe was entitled to a large number of quarterings and at
a subsequent date some of these were added to the arms borne by the
Colonel and his wife. An explanation of the later arms is: The
arms in the first and fourth quarters are those of Simcoe. The arms
31
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
SlMCOE-GWILLIM
ARMS, 1782.
SlMCOE-GwiLLIM ARMS,
1792.
in the second and third quarters have not been identified by the
College of Arms, London, England, and there is nothing in the
College to show that 'Colonel Simcoe was entitled to make 'use of this
'quartering. -With regard to the smaller shield
the first quarter is an incorrect representation
of the Gwillim arms.
The second, consist-
ing of four lions and
crosses, represent the
Spinckes arms. The
third quarter contains
the arms of Stuart
Or a fesse chequy
argent and azure, a
bordure, ermine ; and
the arms in the fourth
quarter of the smaller
shield are those of
Elines Ermine two
bars sable each
charged with five elm
leaves or.
From 1783-7 the
Colonel and his wife
lived at St. Stephen's in Exeter, and in January, 1784, Eliza, their
first child, was born. Then in August, 1785, at St. David's in Exeter,
Charlotte, the second child, arrived, and in April of 1787, the third
child, Henrietta, another daughter. The first child born at Wolford
was Caroline in November of 1788, followed by Sophia, another
daughter, in October of 1789. The sixth child, the first boy, Francis
Gwillim, was born in June, 1791, some months before the departure
of the Colonel and his wife for Canada.
The Exeter Flying Post of Thursday, June 9, 1791, announces
the birth as follows: "Monday, the Lady of Colonel Simcoe was
safely delivered of a son and heir, at their seat, at Wolford Lodge,
near Honiton."
The Colonel devoted his entire time for the first few years to re-
organizing and improving his estate. Wolford, which was a
small but well-built house, was remodelled. A new dwelling was
built in front of the old-time farmhouse. Every convenience for
those days was introduced; roadways were laid out through different
parts of the estate, which covered about 5,000 acres; and under the
direction of Colonel Simcoe and his active and well-informed manager,
Mr. John Scadding, many valuable improvements were made. Mr.
Scadding was the father of the late Rev. Henry Scadding, D.D.,
grand-uncle of Dr. H. Crawford Scadding, of Toronto.
32
THE SIMCOE HOME
All this delighted Mrs. Simcoe. She had a direct interest in
the work of improvement, and it was at her suggestion that many of
the acres, thickly wooded to-day, were planted and improved.
Mrs. Simcoe, as has been said, was of a vivacious disposition. She
was fond of gaiety. Wolford in 1789 became the centre of attraction
in that part of the county. The house had ample accommodation
for visitors, and never a week passed without all its guest-chambers
being filled.
Mrs. Simcoe had inherited all the Gwi'llim wealth and it was
liberally spent, not only in improving the estate but in making life
enjoyable in the manor house. She had a great admiration for her
husband and was especially pleased when in 1790 he entered Parlia-
ment as the representative of St. Maw's in Cornwall.
WOLFORD, NEAR HONITON, DEVON.
(From a Drawing in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
But a change in their lives came when the British Government
decided in the summer of 1791 that it would require Colonel Simcoe's
services immediately as the first Lieutenant-Governor of the new
Province of Upper 'Canada. All plans for the coming winter were
summarily disposed of, for arrangements had to be promptly made
for the journey to Canada. Mrs. Simcoe and the Colonel went to
London, the former to arrange for her outfit, the latter to interview
the authorities at the War Office and receive his final instructions.
Then came the question of the children which of the six could
be taken to Canada. Eliza was seven years of age, Charlotte six,
Henrietta four, Caroline three, Sophia two, and Francis Gwillim was
only three months old. Mrs. Simcoe would have liked to take all her
little ones with her, but that was impossible.
3 33
DIARY OF MES. S1MCOE
Fortunately, however, there were two old friends, Mrs. and Miss
Hunt, in whom the Colonel and his wife had the greatest confidence
and in whose care at Wolford they determined to leave the four
eldest, Eliza, Charlotte, Henrietta and Caroline, taking Sophia and
Francis to Canada. Mrs. Simcoe returned from London in the
beginning of September and most energetically directed the packing
and looked forward with pleasure to the days to be spent in the new
world.
The story of Mrs. Simcoe's life from the day she with her husband
left Wolford and sailed in H. M. S. "Triton" from Weymouth, cannot
be told better than it is written in her diary. Some incidents of her
life in Canada not given in the diary will be found in subsequent
chapters.
When in 1759, her father, Captain Gwillim, ascended with General
Wolfe the rugged path that led to the heights of Abraham, little did
he think that thirty-two years later his daughter would give to future
generations of Canadians pictures of places in the new land that he
and his companions were winning for the Empire. But the daring
and resolute soldier of Wolfe transmitted to his daughter not only the
courageous qualities that had been necessary to win this new land
for Britain, but also the foresight and the genius by which she has
preserved by pen and pencil the spirit both of the natural scenery
and the social life of the New Britain that was being planted.
CHAPTER IV.
FAREWELL TO WOLFORD.
The air at Wolford was filled with loving farewells as Colonel
Simcoe, his wife, his children and attendants left one of the happiest
of England's homes to face the perils of an Atlantic voyage. For a
week before their departure the county people had called to say good-
bye, and wish the new Governor and his wife a safe voyage to their
colonial home in the western continent.
Wolford had during the few years of residence by the Simcoes
been the most hospitable of all the country houses in that part of
NORTH VIEW OF WEYMOUTH IN 1788.
(From a Drawing in Ike Broadley collection.)
Devon. Its guest chambers were never without an occupant, and the
reception days of Mrs. Simcoe had a welcome and a charm for the
large circle of friends who had the pleasure of being entertained there.
Colonel Simcoe's name was a household word, not only in county
families, but in military circles in Devon and Cornwall, and as a
Devon chronicle writer says, "more distinguished men than ever
dined under one roof in Devon were often found at Colonel Simcoe's
table/'
The afternoon of Thursday, 17th September, 1791, was fixed for
the journey to "Weymouth, from which port they were to sail. The
luggage and there was plenty of it had been sent forward on
Wednesday. On Saturday morning, the 17th, the pa'rty arrived at
35
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Weymouth and in a few hours were comfortably settled in lodgings
which faced the esplanade and the bay.
Weymouth is a well known port in Dorset, on the English Channel
south of Dorchester, on a bay at the mouth of the river Wey. The
river separates the two quarters of the town. Old Weymouth is on
the south side and Melcombe Regis faces the bay on the north. The
sands are extensive and there is a magnificent esplanade. George
III. after his serious illness in 1788 found the place an excellent
health resort and visited it nearly every year between 1788-1805.
He resided at Gloucester House, built by the Duke of Gloucester
and bought by the King. Owing to the King's visits the town soon
attained considerable social prominence.
Colonel and Mrs. Simcoe thoroughly enjoyed the days spent in
Weymouth before sailing in the "Triton" frigate which lay anchored
in the bay awaiting the embarkation of its distinguished passengers.
The first entry in Mrs. Simcoe's diary was made on the day of her
arrival in Weymouth.
Weymouth, Saturday, 17th Sept., 1791 We arrived at Weymouth. I
walked with Lady Collier on the Esplanade in the evening.
NOTE. Lady Collier was Elizabeth Fryer, second wife of Sir
George Collier, whom he married in 1781. He was Senior Naval
Officer, Halifax, July, 1776-9, and in 1780 commanded the
" Canada."
Sunday 18th Went to church with Lady Collier and to the Rooms in
the evening. The King looked very well.
NOTE. Robert Huish (1777-1850) in his "King George III."
writes :
"The time of His Majesty was chiefly
occupied at Weymouth in receiving the
formal address of the corporation or the
visits of the nobility and gentry of the
vicinity, and partly on horseback, rambling
over the hills and downs or walking on the
esplanade amidst respectful joyous groups
of his loyal subjects. The Sabbath day was
always passed in the offices of religion, the
royal family walking to church without
parade or ceremony, the service of the
day always ending with 'God Save the GEORGE III.
King.'"
Mr. A. M. Broadley, of Bridport, Eng., informs me that the
"Weymouth Rooms" patronized by the Royal Family were those
known as "Stacey's," formerly part of the Royal Hotel, which can be
clearly seen in the earlier pictures and engravings of Weymouth
C 1789-91) of which he possesses a large collection. The "Royal"
spoken of by Dr. Wolcot in his satire " Weymouth Amusements "
(1795), was pulled down several years ago and has been replaced by
a modern building.
36
GAVEL-KIND IN PORTLAND ISLE
Mon. 19th I went to Portland Island, a rock peninsula of Dorsetshire,
connected with the mainland, with Lady de la Pole, wife of Sir John de la
Pole, and went round the Island in a cart, the conveyance generally used
on those rough roads. The sea views are very fine. There is an uncommon
aperture in the land in one spot, where we looked down as if into a vast
well and saw the waves dashing below. We drove by the lighthouse.
There are some buildings in ruins covered with ivy which have a very
picturesque appearance. We stopped to take some refreshment after the
drive at one of the largest villages in the island, where we tasted Portland
mutton. The inhabitants of the island have laws and regulations peculiar
to themselves. For instance, there is an official of the island called a
Reeve. He collects rent and has a staff called the Reeve Staff, a very long
stick on which payments are recorded in notches cut on the face of the
stick. In buying and selling land the buyer and the seller go to the
church, and sign a register before witnesses. They call it a Church Gift.
It's very simple no writings or parchment used, no lawyers consulted.
We crossed a very narrow passage to the island, but it is sometimes very
rough.
NOTE. The Isle of Portland, really a peninsula, though generally
called an island, is in Dorset, south of Weymouth, projecting into the
English Channel and terminating in the Bill of Portland. It is four
and a half miles long and about two miles wide and nine in circum-
ference. It is connected with the mainland at Abbotsbury by the
shifting Chesil Beach, a narrow ridge of gravel and shingle ten and a
half miles long. This peninsula is practically a great bed of stone,
first used in the reign of James I. The stone is quarried in blocks of
three to fourteen tons each. St. Paul's Cathedral and other great
structures were built of stone from these quarries. Portland is a
"liberty" of itself, and the custom of "gavel-kind" prevails, which is
an old land tenure in England still in vogue in Kent, by which land
descends to all the sons in equal shares.
In Portland service of lawyers is not necessary in connection with
the sale and purchase of land. The ordinary method of conveyance
is almost unknown in Portland. This is done by what is called a
Church Gift, a form used for the purchase from time immemorial.
The buyer and seller go to the church and in the church is a register.
The Church Gift is signed in presence of two witnesses who must be
" Tenants " of the Manor. The deed is called a Church Gift instead
of a common law conveyance.
One of the officials of the Island of Portland is called the Reeve.
His duty for his year of office is to collect the Chief or Quit rent. He
holds the office for one year only and never for a second term. A
new Reeve is appointed annually by the Court Leet, which is held
twice a year, in May and November. A woman or a man may hold
the office. Men and women have had equal rights in Portland, long
before any Married Woman's Property Act was passed by Parliament
giving women their rights. This has been the case in Portland from
time immemorial and women make wills and hold offices and buy and
sell property quite apart from their husbands.
The duty of the Reeve for his year of office is to collect the Quit
37
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Rent or Chief Rent which is due to the Lord
of the Manor, who in this Manor is the King
or Queen, this being a Royal Manor. The
Quit Rent is an annual payment at the rate
of three pence per ,acre to the Lord of the
Manor by landowners in the Island for their
private lands as distinct from Crown Lands
and Common or Parish lands. Every such
landowner is called a " tenant " of the
Manor, but the private lands are treated as
freehold notwithstanding this annual pay-
ment to the Chief. On the death of a tenant
there becomes due to the Chief a payment
of 2/6 which is paid out of the lands owned
: at his death. There are three kinds of
land, viz.: The Crovv-n lands, Private lands
and Commonable or Parish lands, the latter
belonging to the King and the tenants, and
in which the tenants have equal rights with
the King.
The Reeve Staff or Stick is the record of
the payment of this Quit Rent and is of
Saxon origin. It is a stick from ten to
twelve feet long and one and a half inches
square. Payments are represented by
notches cut across the face of the stick. A
deep notch cut across the whole side of the
face represents one shilling. A notch half
way across represents sixpence, a lighter and
not so deep a notch across the whole face
represents a penny. A notch the same depth
as the last named half way across the stick
represents a halfpenny, and a quarter across,
one farthing. No one pays less than a
farthing, but it is easy to see that an acre
may be so divided as to make many owners
who would pay one farthing each. This was
the custom before books for keeping accounts
were in vogue. It is done every year, but in
these modern days books are kept as well.
Each Reeve prepares a new Staff and retains
it as his own, as the stick he used during
his term of office.
The Chief or Quit rent is paid on pri-
vate lands only. The total amount has stood
at 14 14s. 3d. from time immemorial and
although by the sub-division of land the
Reeve collects more, only this sum is paid over to the Chief. No
question is asked and so the extra amount goes into the pocket of the
y*
3 /8
A REEVE STAFF
SOCIAL FUNCTIONS AT WEYMOUTH
Reeve. The payment proper to the Reeve is 1 per year. Formerly
he had no money payment, but had the use of a piece of land for the
year. This piece of land is called the " Reeve Plot."
VIEW OF WEYMOUTH, LOOKING WEST, 1791.
Showing (A) Gloucester Lodge, (B) Stacey's Hotel Rooms.
(From a Water-color in the Broadley collection.)
The picture of a Reeve Staff is from a drawing kindly made for
me by Mr. B. 0. Pearce, an Ex-Reeve, prominent in business circles
in Portland. He also furnished the information in this note con-
cerning the peculiar customs of Portland and the use of the Reeve
Staff.
Mon. 19th I dined with Lady de la Pole at
Stacey's Hotel on the Esplanade, and went in the
evening to see the play of "As You Like It," which
was very well performed. Col. Simcoe dined with
Lord Grenville.
NOTE. This conclusively proves Mr. Broad-
ley's contention as to Stacey's Rooms existing in
1791. They were quite close to Gloucester Lodge.
Lady de la Pole was the wife of the sixth Baronet.
George William Wyndham Baron Grenville
(1759-1834), Home Secretary, 1789-90 and Sec-
retary of State for Foreign Affairs 1791-1801 in
Pitt's administration.
Tues. 20th I was tired with writing, and did not
ro to the ball.
Wed 21st The Chancellor, Edward, Lord Thurlow, is gone into
Flintshire.
39
BAUON GREXVILLE.
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
The sealers, those officials who prepare documents for sealing in the
Lord Chancellor's department, are following with Gov. Simcoe's com-
mission, but not having yet overtaken him, we are detained here and
complaining of losing a fine east wind. We give two and a half guineas
a week for a very small lodging. I could not go to Lullworth Cove to-day
lest the Commission should arrive, in which case we are to sail imme-
diately.
NOTE. Thurlow, Edward, first Baron Thurlow (1731-1806),
Lord Chancellor, 1778, prepared a celebrated report on the Quebec
Bill which was quoted at length in Christie's
History. He intrigued with George, Prince of
Wales, against Pitt, and was obliged to resign in
1792. His political principles were merely a high
view of royal prerogative and an aversion to
change. It was of him that Macaulay said, "I
wonder if any man ever was as wise as Thurlow
looks."
Lullworth Cove is a beautiful inlet in the Eng-
lish Channel, almost landlocked, deep and narrow
with lofty cliffs, and very fine scenery. It is a
few miles from Weymouth, and is usually visited
BAROX THURLOW. by excursionists.
Thur. 22nd Intelligence is received that the Chancellor is gone to
Cumberland.
Fri. 23rd I was pleased with a camera obscura I saw fixed in the top
of a room. I bought a wooden pentograph, an instrument for the mechan-
ical copying of engravings, diagrams and plans. The Misses Rolle, mem-
bers of Lord Rolle's family (a Devonshire nobleman) are here and very
civil to me. I went five miles with Lady Poulett and her children in her
Sociable (a carriage of the period), and dined with her.
NOTE. Henry Rolle was created Baron Rolle of Stevastone in
January, 1747, and died without issue in 1759. His nephew John Rolle
eventually succeeded to the Stevastone property. He was M.P. for
Devonshire, 1780-4, 1790, and was a staunch
adherent of Pitt. In 1796 he was created Baron
Rolle of Stevastone. He died without issue in
April, 1842. The "Misses Rolle" were Isabella
Harriot Charlotte, born 1754, and Florence, born
1762.
Fri. 23rd In the evening we walked on tlhe
esplanade. The Royal family came and spoke to
Lady P., and the Princess Royal carried Lady
Mary Poulett, daughter of the Earl, a heavy
child three years old, the wihole length of the
esplanade.
NOTE. Princess Charlotte Augusta Matilda,
born 29th September, 1766, eldest daughter of PRINCESS
George III., (1738-1820) married in 1797, her
cousin Frederick William Charles, Duke of Wurtemburg, who subse-
quently became King of Wurtemburg. He formed an alliance with
40
MES. SIMCOE MEETS KING GEORGE.
Napoleon in 1805, his army fighting for Napoleon for several years,
but eventually joining the allies in 1813.
Lady Mary Poulett was the second daughter
of John, the fourth Earl Poulett, by Sophia his
wife, daughter and heir of Admiral Sir George
Pocock, K.B. Lady Mary in 1821 became the
second wife of Lord Charles Henry Somerset.
Sat. 24th I walked on the sands with Coll. Sim-
coe before breakfast. We met the King. He asked
me whether I left my children at school, how I should
like being at sea, &c. I was not well and dined at
home. Sir de la Pole sent me landrails. My French
cook dressed them without taking out the inside, and
I found a shell as large as a nut in one of them. I
thought they lived by suction. How could this be?
LADY POULETT NOTE. The Landrail or Corncrake, a mi-
gratory bird, leaves England before the winter,
and repairs to other countries in search of food. It appears in Eng-
land the latter end of April.
Sun. 25th I was at the Rooms to-night, and met Capt. Sydney Smith.
He wore a handsome star given him by the King of Sweden, in whose
service he distinguished himself. He is thought to be like Charles the
Twelfth of Sweden. His countenance reminded me of pictures of some
great men in Elizabeth's reign a marked countenance, expressing the
reverse of a trifling character.
The whole of this day it blew so heavy a gale that the "Triton," the
ship on which we are to sail for Canada, was obliged to go out to sea, it
being dangerous to remain at anchor. From Lady de la Pole's windows
in this hotel, where I dine, the waves looked tremendous. The scene was
grand, but, as the Queen (Charlotte) observed this evening, was "mixed
with too much horror to be pleasing."
NOTE. Sir William Sydney Smith (1764-1840) a naval officer
who entered the Navy in 1777, became captain in 1782, knighted
in 1792. He was captured off
Havre by the French in 1796,
imprisoned in Paris for two
years, escaped in 1798, and in
1799 undertook the defence of
St. Jean d'Acre. In March,
1799, he captured the French
vessels and held the town until
the siege was raised. He died
in 1840.
Sun. 25th I dined yester-
day, 24th, at Sir G. Collier's,
with Capt. Murray, of the
SIB GEORGE MURRAY. " Triton," who appears a very glR SYDNEY SMITH
gentlemanly man, and his hav-
ing the reputation of being an excellent officer is a great consolation to
us who are aJbout to sail in so late a season for a northern climate. Sir
J. Jervoise is the only man who tells Coll. Simcoe that he is certain of
making his passage at this time of the year. Others think it is too late,
41
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
but he is a man of knowledge in nautical affairs, and, therefore, his
opinion is to he trusted to.
The King asked Capt. Murray about his stock of provisions for the
voyage, and hoped he had prepared for making my passage as comfortable
as possible to me.
XOTE. Sir George Murray, 1759-1819, Vice-Admiral, of a
younger branch of the Elibank family. His actual services in the
Navy probably began about 1772 when he joined the "Panther" on
the Newfoundland station. He was afterwards in the " Romney,"
the flagship of Rear Admiral John Montague, on the same station.
In 1792 he was appointed to the "Triton" frigate, and after-
wards to the " Nymphe." In 1807, he was ap-
pointed commander-in-chief of the naval opera-
tions against Buenos Ayres. On 25th October,
1809, he was promoted to be a Vice- Admiral,
\\ T as nominated a K.C.B. on 2nd January, 1815,
and died suddenly at Chichester on 28th February.
1819.
John Jervoise (Jervis), Earl St. Vincent, the
first Viscount, was born at Meaford, Staffordshire,
17th January, 1734. He entered the navy in his
tenth year, led the advanced squadron in charge
of transport past Quebec, was entrusted by Wolfe
with his last message to his betrothed, 1759, and
EARL ST. VINCENT, was a personal friend of Captain John Simcoe,
R. N., father of Governor Simcoe. He became
admiral of the blue and commander of the naval forces in the
Mediterranean in 1795, and in. consequence of his victory over the
Spanish fleet off Cape St. Vincent in February, 1797, was raised
to the peerage. In 1821 he became admiral of the fleet.
CHAPTEK V.
THE GOVERNOR AND SUITE EMBARK.
Mrs. Simcoe's description of the trip from Weymouth to the New
World forms an interesting commentary upon the ocean travel of
a century ago. Long was the voyage and great was the discomfort
even upon the "Triton," which compared most favorably with the
usual sailing craft of the day. With wind as the only motive power,
the man-of-war which bore the Simcoe party towards the West took
forty-six days upon a voyage which the fleet liner of to-day would
make in less than five. And the gain in comfort has been no less
marked.
However, Mrs. Simcoe was possessed of an industry which pre-
vented her long passage from being irksome. Much of the time she
spent in reading and writing. Every incident of importance found
its way into her record. The vessel's speed and weather conditions
were, of course, sedulously jotted down by the diarist; there is men-
tion of the rare passing vessels; while the description of the routine
life upon an eighteenth century warship has a peculiar interest to
the luxury-loving traveller of to-day.
When land was sighted, the Captain's chart was always consulted
and every point of land that had a name found a place in her daily
writings. She certainly had a traveller's mind, with powers of obser-
vation that added to her voyage pleasure both for herself and for
the friends to whom she wrote.
Mon. 26th Sept. Wind east, blowing fresh, fine and clear. It became
calm this morning, and at one o'clock p.m. we embarked on board His
Majesty's frigate " Triton," 28 guns. Captain Murray. Capt. Stevenson
accompanied us, and Lt. Grey, a son of Sir Charles
Grey's, for whom Coll. Simcoe requested a passage,
who is going to join the Fusiliers or the 7th Regt. at
Quebec, the regiment of which Prince Edward is
Colonel.
I became giddy as soon as I entered the ship
and went to my cabin, an apartment just large enough
to swing a cot, which I immediately got into. On
leaving Weymouth and in going through a surf called
the Portland Race, one of the port hole windows was
stove in, and the gentlemen at dinner were quite wet.
NOTE. Sir harles Grey, first Earl Grey,
1729-1807, a General in the Army, was con-
spicuous for his services to the King in the Ameri-
r< can Revolution. He was created Earl Grey and
Viscount Howick in 1806. Earl Grey, the present Governor-General
of Canada, is the fourth bearer of the title, and is directly descended
from Sir Charles Grey. Lieutenant Thomas Grey, who sailed with
43
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Governor Simcoe, was fifth son of Sir Charles Grey, was lieutenant-
colonel of the 12th Regiment of Foot, which embarked for the East
Indies, 8th June, and anchored in Table Bay, 19th September, 1796.
The regiment was in bad health while in Table Bay, so Grey was
probably left behind when it sailed on the following 10th of November.
He retired by sale of his commission, 1st December, 1796, and died
at the Cape of Good Hope, 17th January, 1797, unmarried.
Tues. 27th East, fresh and fine. Went before the wind at 9 knots an
hour.
Wed. 28th East, fresh and fine. Went upon deck. Our hours are
early. We breakfast at 8; dine at 2, and never take any supper.
Sunday, Oct. 2nd Calm.
Mon. 3rd Rough.
Tues. 4th I got the better of my sickness yesterday, but there blew
so strong a gale of wind that I was obliged to remain in my cot or in a
corner behind the stove in the great cabin, to secure myself from falling.
It was by persevering to go on deck and by eating salt beef, covered with
mustard, that I soon became well. As my health amends my spirits rise,
and I am rather diverted at the difficulties we meet with at dinner, when,
in spite of all care, the dishes are often tossed to every corner of the room.
The ship not having sufficient ballast makes her roll so unreasonably. I
think I have great merit in beginning to write to you this early, in spite of
rough weather. The children (Francis and Sophia) are well, but never
appear to be safe except when in their cots, for the nurses are much indis-
posed and have very indifferent sea legs. I am learning to walk on deck,
but cannot yet do it without leaning on the arm of a gentleman. Capt.
Murray, who has been in France, plays at reverse, the French card game,
with us. Sophia's amusement is seeing the poultry on deck, where a little
midshipman carries her every day. The wind has for several days driven
us to the southward of our course. It begins to blow hard again, so I
must retire to my cot.
Wed. 5th Calm. Went five knots an hour.
Thur. 6th Went six knots an hour.
Fri. 7th We saw porpoises.
Sat. 8th Calm and fine. It is expected we shall see the Azores or
Western Isles to-morrow night.
Sun. 9th Hot and fine. We rose from dinner at three o'clock to see
a ship pass. She was the " Minerva," of London, from New York to Malaga,
a Spanish port on the Mediterranean. I admired the sight as she sailed
close to us. She did not give any intelligence. At 10 p.m. an island was
seen.
Mon. 10th Fine, very hot. The heat was so excessive I could not
sleep, and rose at 6 o'clock to look at the island, which was Corvo, the
most northerly of the Azores. The mist presently dispersing, we saw
Flores, the westernmost island of the Azores, where, in 1591, Sir Richard
Grenville, in a small man-of-war, the "Revenge," held at bay fifteen
Spanish warships till his own was but a wreck. The atmosphere far
from clear. Corvo is extremely high land, lat. 39, Corvo S.S.E., 3 leagues.
Coll. Simcoe has been reading " L'Histoire Generale de la Nouvelle
France," by Francois Xavier Charlevoix, the French Jesuit traveller, who
twice visited Canada and sailed down the Mississippi to New Orleans,
and who says that Corvo was discovered by a Portuguese, who found it
uninhabited, but saw an equestrian statue on a pedestal, of what metal
made he knew not; but there was an inscription on it which was not
legible. The right hand of the finger pointed to the west.
The Western Isles are inhabited by Portuguese, who are fond of buy-
ing black clothes whenever ships call there, which they frequently do to
44
ROUGH WEATHER AT SEA
take in water, and which we should have done had not the lateness of
the season in which we quitted England made it necessary not to lose an
hour on the passage, as we are doubtful of reaching Quebec before the
St. Lawrence is filled with ice.
I should have liked to have gone on shore here, as the climate is said
to be delightful and the islands abounding in grapes, oranges, melons,
chestnuts, etc. No boats came to us with fruits, and they rarely fish
beyond their harbour on account of the heavy squalls to which the coast
is subject, which endangers their being blown out to sea. From the
description of the islands I would like to make a voyage here instead of
going to Tunbridge Wells (in England) or other watering places, where
people frequently tire or weary themselves. The scheme would be more
enlarged, and I believe much more amusing. Being at sea in good weather
is delightful, and there is no occasion to execute such a voyage in the
equinoxial season.
Tues. llth Wind light, very hot and contrary. A ship on her lar-
board tack was seen last night; we, being on the starboard, did not speak
with her. I rose this morning at three o'clock and looked at the constel-
lation of Orion and its stars in great brightness. The heat is excessively
oppressive, though we have the windows open all night.
Wed. 12th I copied some prints of ships Capt. Murray lent me. An
American vessel was seen.
Thurs. 13th Fine. A sail passed this morning, supposed to be an
English 44 guns. At noon a Portuguese vessel was seen.
Fri. 14th Very hard gale this morning. The sea ran mountains
high. I sat on deck and saw the men reefing the sails. Their situation
appeared tremendous. Mr. Benge, the Purser, gave Coll. Simcoe an
account of his having been twice wrecked on the 14th October, which made
him rather distrust his safety on this anniversary. He was on the " Deal
Castle " when she and seventeen ships were lost on the Spanish main.
She was carried by a violent gale of wind over a high rock, and struck
on the sands. At two in the morning her bottom stove in, but she did not
sink till after daylight, when all the men except seventeen got on shore
on rafts. The account of such perils during such weather was not very
amusing to us.
NOTE. On the 10th of October, 1780, a dreadful hurricane com-
menced on the island of Barbadoes, and continued without inter-
mission for forty-eight hours. Ships were driven from their anchors,
the capital of the island was destroyed, and the inhabitants were
compelled to take refuge in cellars. Many were killed by falling
buildings, and on the following day there was not a house in the
island that had escaped damage, many of them were levelled to the
ground, and the loss of life amounted to thousands. Many of the
ships moored at St. Lucia were driven out to sea. The "Androm-
eda," 28 guns, and the "Deal Castle," 24 guns, were lost on the
coast of Martinique, while the "Thunderer," among other vessels,
was never heard of again, and the exact place of their loss was never
ascertained.
Sat. 15th Wind ;N.W.. cold, hard gale. This hard gale did not cool
the cabins, which had been so extremely heated; I was, therefore, glad to
be on deck to get rid of the headache, notwithstanding the weather was
so rough that I was obliged to hold fast by a cannon. The waves, rising
like mountains, have the grandest and most terrific appearance, and when
the ship dashes with violence into the sea, much as a chaise in the
act of overturning, it is surprising that she rights again. I viewed this
tempestuous scene with astonishment.
45
DIAKY OF MES. SIMC'OE
Sun. 16th A very stiff gale. Fine weather makes me very happy,
but when it blows hard this abode is certainly horrid beyond the imagina-
tion of those who have not experienced it. The noises on board a ship,
till one becomes accustomed to them, almost deprive one of one's senses;
in bad weather they are doubled; every place wet and dirty, besides being
bruised by sudden motions of the ship and half drowned by leaks in the
cabin. The gale has to-day been stiff and contrary. Two days since we
expected to have been ere this catching cod on the banks of Newfound-
land, and now we are far off. Those who are of a sanguine temper think
we may get to New York; others foresee that we shall be driven to Bar-
badoes, where we must pass the winter, and in May sail for Antigua to
refit.
Coll. Simcoe is the only person who supposes it possible to reach
Quebec. It will be so late before we come into the River St. Lawrence
that the pilots will probably have quitted the Isle of Bic, an island in the
river near Rimouski, below Quebec, and the master of the " Triton "
cannot carry her up without a pilot. In this case we must return to the
Gulph, and the season being too severe to keep in a northern latitude, we
must steer for Barbadoes, and there shall meet with millions of those
black beetles I so much detest, those verdaderos ninos d'eponomon
lizards, centipedes and scorpions besides: Desdichada de mi gue tengo de
ayer? (I miserable, what have I of yesterday?)
After being amused during the day by a description of those vile
reptiles, the evening proved so rough and dismal that everybody sat
melancholy and unoccupied. I learnt a hymn in the Spectator, happening
to open the book where there was one applicable to our present situation.
I then sat myself down to copy pictures of ships, and by perseverance
and determined opposition to unfavourable circumstances I finished six
pretty correctly. My cot striking against the side of the cabin most un-
comfortably, Coll. Simcoe thought of the method used by the ancients to
lessen the force of battering rams by hanging up feather beds to receive
them. This device made the cot slide up and down very easily.
NOTE. Addison's Spectator the first number of this periodical
was published in March, 1711, and the last on the 20th December,
1714. The Spectator newspaper was not published till 1828.
Mon. 17th We saw porpoises.
Tues. 18th A pleasant morning. At 12 a sudden gale of wind arose,
and while I was engaged in a game of Piquet, the French card game much
played in England, with Oapt. Murray, a lee lurch threw me to the side of
the cabin against the fender. I was vexed at the accident, though not
hurt, having piqued myself on having been so expert as always to have
avoided falling.
Wed. 19th A brig seen. A shag (or green cormorant) with a red
bill was seen. Wind variable.
Thurs. 20th Wind moderate. We are 130 leagues from Newfound-
land. This distance we have kept these last five days. I began to draw
a map of the Genesee River, New York State falls into Lake Ontario.
NOTE. Mrs. Simcoe was very fond of drawing maps. One of her
maps of Upper Canada, about four feet square, is preserved at Wol-
ford. It is very accurately drawn.
Fri. 21st Very hard gale. 'A tempestuous night. It rained upon
my bed, but a thick greatcoat covered me, and I slept well. This ship
is a good sea boat, but so leaky in her upper works that the floor of my
cabin is scarcely ever dry, and the baize with which it is covered retains
the wet. Therefore, I always wear clogs. Some shrouds were lost in
this gale of wind.
MRS. SIMCOE'S LOVE OF BIRD LIFE
A S.NOWBIUD.
(From a Drawing by Mr. Siincoe.)
Sat. 22nd N.E. hard gale.
Sun. 23rd Wind N.E. Whales seen near the ship, and many birds,
which are signs of being in soundings, though none can be obtained. As
the sun has not been seen for some days no observation can be taken, and
the compass is so bad a one that it traverses to all points in a gale of
wind, so that the Master knows not where we are, or, in bad weather, what
course we are going.
Mon. 24th Wind N.E. Cold and clear. Number of gulls and shear-
waters and Mother Carey's chickens flying about. They are a brown
bird with white spots, _
pretty and rather larger
than a sparrow, a storm
petrel, a little bird which
frequents this part of the
Atlantic. The shearwater
is a bird measuring 15
inches in length, 31 inches
in breadth. It has a black
and yellow bill, white
under wings and body,
back and tail black, found on waters all over the world. Mother Carey is
Mater Cara. The birds are called "Sailors'" friend; their appearance
portends bad weather. To kill them is unlucky. Each bird is supposed,
so legend says, to contain a soul of a dead sailor. At 12 o'clock we were
in 75 fathoms of water. Cod, haddock and halibut were caught. A very
cold night and rained into my cot.
Tues. 25th N.W. wind excessive. No soundings since 12 last night.
It is extraordinary to be out of them so soon. It is hoped we shall keep
clear of Sable Island, 30 leagues east of Nova Scotia, which is frequently
enveloped in fog, and, therefore, very dangerous. No trees grow on it, but
there is plenty of wood from the frequent wrecks that are driven on its
shores. It abounds with rats, snipe, and so forth.
Wed. 26th Wind N.W. So extremely cold that I could not stay on
deck without a fleecy, hosiery greatcoat on; a bird like a linnet and a
crossbill alighted on the
rigging. It was out of the
reach of land. I hoped to
have kept it in my cabin,
but it soon died. This
bird is about the size of a
lark and 7 inches in
length. It has a peculiar
bill, the upper and under
mandibles curve in oppo-
site directions and cross
each other at the points.
Its eyes are hazel, and its general colour reddish mixed green, but these
birds are sometimes rose colour or yellowish green.
Thurs. 27th Wind moderate. A beautiful owl, olive colour, with
white spots and black about his face, was caught to-day. He was not
larger than a thrush and not wild; also a bird the size of a lark.
Fri. 28th Wind N.E. A fine morning, and we fortunately made the
Isle of Sable, thirteen leagues N., only 8% fathoms water, before 12 o'clock,
when a very thick fog came on.
NOTE. Sable Island is a small island off Nova Scotia, first
sighted by Cabot in 1497, situated in the Atlantic Ocean, lying 110
miles southeast of Cape Canso, lat. 43 58' N., long. 59 46' W. It is
47
(From
A CROSSBILL.
Draining by Mrs. Simcoe )
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
deep, low and sandy, about 25 miles in length and surrounded by
shoals and sandbanks, and known as "the ocean graveyard." In 1791
it was forty miles long; in 1890 it had been reduced to 25 miles.
Cape Sable Island is the southwesternmost extremity of Nova Scotia
and is frequently confused with Sable Island.
28th, p.m. If it blow hard until to-morrow we hope to go through the
Gut or Strait of Canso, a beautiful passage between Nova Scotia and Cape
Breton from the Atlantic Ocean into Northumberland Strait, between
high, rocky shores, and the shortest way to the Gulf of St. Lawrence. I
am now reconciled to being at sea. I am well enough to work, write or
draw; and sailing at the rate of 10 miles an hour without fatigue or
trouble (which in this good weather is the case) is very pleasant. I
should like to embark in summer, see various coasts, look into the har-
bours, and pass two or three months in this way. For example, come to
Spanish River, on the Oape Breton Coast, where we hope shortly to be,
and I am 'told is a pretty place, and I hope to visit Mrs. McCormick, wife
of Lieut.-Col. McCormick, governor of the island of Cape Breton, to-morrow.
NOTE. Spanish River is known to-day as Sydney Harbour.
Sat. 29th Wind N.W. The wind against our going through the Gut
of Canso. At 8 to-day we saw the coast of Nova Scotia. At 12 observed
White Island, east of Liscomb Harbour. We saw American schooners.
The white sails appeared very pretty to us who had been so long without
seeing any objects, and the breakers along the coast, contrasted with some
dark shores, had a good effect. We saw the Gut of Canso at a distance.
At 4 we saw at the south end of Cape Breton, Richmond Island, so called
in some charts, in others Isle Madame. We were very near it. It is a bold,
perpendicular, dark red rock, shaded almost to black, and covered with pine,
which looks richer than oak, and the conic shape when in maps looks
well. Some large blasted pine, quite white, had a wild, fine effect. At
the end of this island are rocks under water, which form fine breakers,
dashing up a great height and sinking beneath the blue tide. A little dis-
tance from Richmond lies Green Island, a small, low, smooth, olive-coloured
slip of land south of Isle Madame. Behind Richmond island is Arichat
Harbour, on the west coast of Isle Madame, off the southern coast of Cape
Breton, from whence we saw a schooner coming. Within half an hour she
came up with us, but could not pilot us into Arichat harbour, or we should
have anchored safely there and waited for an E. wind to carry us thro' the
Gut of Canso, the passage between Nova Scotia and Cape Breton Island.
Coll. Simcoe quotes " there is a tide in the affairs of men," and says
our losing the opportunity of going thro' the Gut of Canso makes him, for
the first time, doubtful of reaching Quebec. He is particularly disappointed
at not seeing this passage, as his father, Capt. John Simcoe, R.N., of the
" Pembroke," proposed to the Admiralty to carry large ships through it,
and would have gained much time by so doing. This advantage was lost,
as his proposal was objected to by the officers, who were afraid to risk the
passage. We are now beating about, not making much way or venturing
to make more sail than will carry us 5 knots an hour during this night,
lest we get among the numerous breakers hereabouts.
Sun. 30th Wind W., clear and cold. Passed Louisbourg at seven this
morning. Coll. Simcoe was very sorry he had not seen that harbour, so
often mentioned in his father's papers. At ten we passed the Isle de
Scatari, Lat. 46, long. 59, 45 W., off Cape Breton (near the entrance to Mir6
Bay). Then saw Cape Breton. At eleven made Flint Island and Cape
Perc6 (north of Mir6 Bay). We passed Spanish (River at 6 in the evening.
I did not see it. Gov. McCormick lives there, and has a brig in which he
goes to England.
48
OFF CAPE BKETON COAST
NOTE. Flint Island is east of Cape Breton between North and
South Head at the entrance of Cow Bay.
Governor Macormick, of Cape Breton, was appointed to that office
October llth, 1787, as successor to Des Barres, and in September of
the following year, entertained at Sydney, the capital, Prince Wil-
liam Henry (afterwards William IV.), who had arrived there in
his yacht the "Andromeda." Governor Macormick resigned on 27th
May, 1795. He was a personal friend of Governor Simcoe and was
frequently at Wolford.
Mon. 31st Wind N.E. Snow. At eleven we passed Niganiche (Nig-
anish) Island, off the east coast of Cape Breton, near Middle Head. At 12
Cape Nord, the N.E. extremity of the island of Cape Breton, which is
ISLAND OF ENTRY, 1791.
(From a Drawing by- Mrs. Simcoe.)
broken into rifts and chasms, a very bold coast. There was a good deal
of snow on the trees, and as it was still falling, together with fog, I saw
but little. It had a wild appearance. Lat. 47, long. 42%. This place
abounds with ducks.
NOTE. In Bayfield's Admiralty charts Inganish Island is situated
north of Middle Head, between North Bay and South Bay, lat.
46 50' on east coast of Cape Breton. It is sometimes spelled
"Ingonish."
Tues. November 1st Wind N.W. Cold. We saw the Magdalen Islands
about the centre of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. They are uninhabited, and
in summer frequented by sea cows. There is good duck shooting on them,
and codfish near them, for which purpose an American schooner is now
at anchor off one of them. At 12 saw Amherst Island, the south island
of the Magdalen group, and afterwards to the north and east the Isle
Entry, another of the group.
Wed. 2nd Wind N.W., very cold. I saw Amherst Island in another
point of view; also Deadman's Isle, which appears in shape like a ram.
4 49
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
NOTE. Deadman's Island is a small island to the west of the
Magdalen group. In a French map of 1755 by Vangoudy, the island
is given as "Isle de Corps Mort."
Wed. 2nd We met the " Liberty," of Whitby,
bound to Portsmouth from Miscou (Misco) Har-
bour, in Miscou Island, at the entrance to the
Bay of Chaleur, laden with plank. The "Liberty"
informed us that the "Alligator," with Lord
Dorchester on board, had put into Halifax the
7th of September, having sprung her bowsprit,
and the " Penelope " was nearly being lost at the
same time. Capt. Murray sent a boat on board
the "Liberty," with letters for England. During
the time we lay to, several codfish were caught.
I like the chowder made of them very much.
Coll. Simcoe has the gout in his hand.
THE " LIBERTY."
(From a drawing by
Mrs. Simcoe.)
NOTE. Guy Carleton, who was created first Baron Dorchester
in 1786, served in America from 1758 to 1762, and from 1766 to
1770, was acting Governor of Quebec. Upon
his return to England in 1770, he advocated the
passing of the Quebec Act and in 1775 returned
as Governor of that province. For five months
he successfully defended Quebec against the
Americans, and in October of the same year,
1776, defeated them on Lake Champlain. In
1782-3 he was Commander-in-Chief in America.
As Governor he resided in Quebec from 1786
to 1791, and as Governor- General from 1793 to
July, 1796, when he returned to England.
Fri. 4th Wind N.E. Dreadful gale and snow-
storm; several men frost bit during the last night, LoRI> DORCHESTER.
which was the worst weather we have had. The
ship pitched her forecastle under water continually. In the morn-
ing the Isle Bonaventure, just north-east and opposite the Perce Rock,
.on the Gaspe coast, was seen, but the wind being contrary they tacked all
day and lost ground. We were under single reef courses the whole day.
Coppers, or kettles from the ship's galley, are kept boiling night and day
to thaw the tackle and ropes, which are continually freezing. The sailors
have no clothing more than they would have on a West India voyage, and
suffer severely. Had we been 8 leagues more to the northward, this wind
would have served to carry us up the St. Lawrence River.
Sat. 5th Wind N.W., moderate. N.W. during the day, but at night the
wind came S.W., and we ran our course at the rate of 8 knots an hour.
Isle Bonaventure was seen again.
Sun. 6th Wind N.W. Passed Cap des Rosiers north of Cap Gaspe,
in fine weather, but at 12 o'clock a most heavy gale of wind came on, which
lasted till 12 at night, the highest sea and the roughest weather we have
had. Two reefs in the foresail. Tacked all day and lost much ground.
If this weather continues many hours we cannot weather it, but must be
blown out of the river and go to New York, if we can, more probably to
be blown to the West Indies, the men being so disabled by the frost and so
many on the sick list that there are not enough to work the ship against
adverse winds. The dinner overset, the tea things broke, but I eat broth
without spilling it.
50
PILOT BOARDS " THE TEITOX "
Mon. 7th Wind moderate. Saw Anticosti Island. It's a large island
in the estuary of the St. Lawrence.
Tues. 8th Wind moderate, N.W., hard frost and clear. We saw part
of the coast called in the chart Les Vallees, two rivers in Gaspe" County
falling into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Tacked all day and made some way.
NOTE. Called "Great and Little Valley" in chart of Gulf of St.
Lawrence published by Eobert Sayer, London, 1st August, 1785.
Wed. 9th N.E. Clear and moderate. Saw Mons. Camillo and Riviere
Matane.
NOTE. Mount Camille, in Eimouski County, is one of the highest
mountains in Quebec, being about four thousand feet in height.
River Matane, also in Rimouski County, rises in the Shickshock
Mountains and falls into the Gulf of St. Lawrence.
ISLAND OF ANTICOSTI.
(From a Drawing by Mrs. Simcoe.)
I walked two hours on the deck this afternoon, and saw a fine sunset
behind Bique (Bic), a village in Rimouski County, near Rimouski. When
we came within sight of Bique, Capt. Murray fired a gun for a pilot, and
one very soon after the signal came on board. He had arrived from
Isle aux Coudres (or Hazel Island, 17 leagues N.E. of Quebec) this day to
attend a dance at Bique, which latter place he had quitted a week before,
not expecting any ships from England at so late a season. To-morrow he
would have returned to Coudres, and we must have left the river for
want of a pilot. Our arrival this day was, therefore, most fortunate.
I copied some of Des Barres' charts this morning. The wind was so fair
that all the sails were set, even the sky scrapers, and the ship went so
steadily that I did not feel any motion.
NOTE. Bic, or Sainte Cecile de Bic, is a post-village of Rimouski
County, about a hundred and eight miles below Quebec City and
nine miles west of Rimouski. There is an island opposite this village
three miles in length and three-quarters of a mile in breadth called
Bic or L'Islet au Massacre. According to tradition two hundred
51
THE DIARY OF MRS. SIMOOE
Micmac Indians were murdered here by the Iroquois about two
hundred years ago. The place is also called Bicque and Bique.
Joseph Frederic Wallet des Barres was born in
1722. He was the descendant of the Protestant
branch of a noble French family who emigrated
to England after the revocation of the Edict of
Nantes. In 1756 he embarked, as lieutenant, in
the 60th Regiment of Foot for America. From
1784-1787, Des Barres was Lieutenant-Governor
of the Isle of Cape Breton, and in 1785 founded
Sydney. He ranked in the army as Colonel
(Brevet) from 1st January, 1798, and retired
in 1803. A large part of the Maritime Provinces
were surveyed by Des Barres and many of the
best maps of the period were made by him. He was Captain Cook's
teacher in navigation. His death took place in Halifax, N".S., in
October, 1824, at the age of 102.
Thurs. 10th N.E. Rain and mild. We saw three ships on their way
to England anchored off the Brandy Pots Islands, N.E. of Hare Islands.
Passed Hare Island and the Kamouraska Islands. I feel the air much
heavier since we have been so near land. We expect to be at Quebec in
DES BAKRES.
te;^
H^^4%.*-. .^-V^'^.^lW--^- *.->:;--
BRANDY POTS ISLANDS, 1791.
(From a Drawing by Mrs. Simcoe.)
the night. The Island of Orleans (N.E. of Quebec) reaches from nearly
opposite Cape Tourmente to within a league and a half of Quebec. It is
seven leagues in length and three in width. As Baron Jean de la Hontan
writes in his "Voyages dans I'Amerique Septentrionale " (published in
1704), "north of the Isle of Orleans the river divides into two branches;"
the ships sail through the south, the north channel being foul with shoals
and rocks.
CHAPTER VI.
THE GOVERNOR AND HIS FAMILY IN QUEBEC.
Governor Simcoe, although he had brought his commission as
Lieutenant-Governor of Upper Canada with him, was compelled,
owing to circumstances related in a previous chapter, to remain at
Quebec until June of 1792, before proceeding to the Upper Province
and to Kingston, where he would take the oaths of office. There were
many matters of importance to be arranged before he entered upon
the active duties of his position.
The Act of the Imperial Parliament dividing the old province
of Quebec into the two provinces of Upper and Lower Canada was
passed in May, 1791. The commission of Governor Simcoe is dated
12th September, 1791, and the proclamation in accordance with the
Act was issued at Quebec on November 18th, 1791. In June, 1792,
he proceeded to Upper Canada, arriving at Kingston in July, where
he took the oaths of office in presence of his Executive Council.
Fri. llth I expressed so much concern to quit the ship that Capt.
Murray said he was almost afraid to dine on shore, lest I should order the
ship under weigh to sail on a further voyage. The "Triton" anchored
at Quebec at one this morning. At 7 I looked out of the cabin window
and saw the town covered with snow, and it rained the whole day. Coll.
Simcoe and Capt. Murray dined with General Alured Clarke, the Lt.-
Governor, administrator, to meet H.R.H. Prince Edward.
NOTE. Sir Charles Alured Clarke had a long and distinguished
military career. When fourteen he entered the army as an ensign.
Seventy-three years later, on the accession of
William IV., he was made a field marshal. He
died in September, 1832. Sir Alured was Gov-
ernor of Jamaica from 1782-90, when he was
transferred to the staff at Quebec. He was sworn
in as Lieutenant-Governor of the Province of
Quebec, 8th of October, 1790. He received his
commission as Lieutenant-Governor of Lower
Canada, September 12th, 1791, and remained in
office until January 21st, 1796. During the two
years' absence of Lord Dorchester he acted as SlR ALUBED CLABKE .
administrator of the province. Subsequently he
became Governor-General of India and later Commander-in-Chief
of the forces there.
Edward Augustus was the fourth son of George III. and the
father of Queen Victoria. He was not liked by his parent and spent
most of his time in military service abroad. For a while he was in
command of the 7th Royal Fusiliers at Gibraltar and at once showed
53
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
himself a thorough martinet, and became so unpopular Tfith his
men that he was sent to Oanada in 1791. Three years later he
served in Martinique and St. Lucia, but on the close of operations
returned to Canada. In 1799 several promotions
came his way. He was made Duke of Kent, and
Commander-in-Chief of the forces in British
Xorth America. In 1803 he was appointed Gov-
ernor of Gibraltar. In July, 1818, he married
Victoria May Louisa, widow of Enrich Charles,
Prince of Leiningen. Eighteen months later he
died.
The 7th Regiment or Royal Fusiliers was
formed in 1685. In 1773 they proceeded to
Canada and were stationed at Quebec, Montreal
and St. John's. When Quebec was 'besieged by
Montgomery and Arnold, the garrison, of which
sixty men of the Fusiliers formed part, defended
the place with firmness and intrepidity. The regiment fought dur-
ing the War of the Revolution. They returned to England in 1783,
on conclusion of the treaty of peace. In May, 1791, the regiment
was again in Canada under the command of Prince Edward, who
in 1799 was created Duke of Kent. In 1801 the Duke was re-
moved to the First or Royal Regiment, and was succeeded in the
colonelcy by Lieutenant-Governor Sir Alured Clarke, from the 5th
Foot, who had commanded the Fusiliers during a great part of the
American war. In 1810, the regiment, which was stationed in the
West Indies, returned to England.
Fri. llth I was not disposed to leave the ship to enter so dismal
looking a town as Quebec appeared through the mist, sleet and rain, but
at 6 o'clock L.t. Talbot went ashore with me, and General Clarke's covered
carriole, a small chaise on runners instead of wheels, was ready to carry
me to the Inn in the Upper Town, to which we ascended an immensely
steep hill through streets ill built. The snow was not deep enough to
enable the carriole to run smoothly, so that I was terribly shaken, and
formed a very unpleasant idea of the town which I had come to, and the
dismal appearance of the old-fashioned inn I arrived at, which, I could
suppose, resembled my idea of a Flemish house, was not preposessing.
My rooms were all on the first floor and a large kitchen adjoining the
sitting room. I did not suffer from cold, for it was heated by polls or
stoves, which were so well supplied with wood that I found it sometimes
necessary to open the finettes, or sliding panes of glass in the windows.
I met with fine partridges and excellent apples called Roseaux, pink
throughout, and they had a flavour of strawberries a very early apple,
and they do not keep.
Sun. 13th Capt. Murray sailed for Halifax. I sent letters to England
by a merchant vessel. I was amused by seeing dogs of all sizes drawing
traineaux or sleds with wood. Mastiffs draw loads of provisions, and very
small dogs carrioles, with children in them.
Fri. 18th I walked with Ooll. Simcoe to Cape Diamond and saw the
citadel, which is fortified by many works, and from whence there is a very
grand view of the town, shipping and distant mountains as far as Cap
Tourmente. near the mouth of the river. The inhabited country near
Quebec is embellished by the villages of Montmorency at the Falls, Charles-
54
FIRST DAYS IN QUEBEC
bourg, Lorette, St. Foix (Ste. Foy), all within a few miles of Quebec. It
seemed very perilous walking over acres of ice, but cloth shoes or worsted
stockings over shoes prevent slipping.
Sat. 19th I went to the house we have hired in St. John Street, which
is a very moderate one, but the only one at present to be let. There is a
poil or stove in one parlour, and a fireplace in the other.
Mon. 21st I went to a subscription concert. Prince Edward's band
of the 7th Fusiliers played, and some of the officers of the Fusiliers. The
music was thought excellent. The band costs the Prince eight hundred a
year.
Sat. 26th. A Mr. Hazeel, who is lately come from the River la
Tranche (the Thames in Middlesex, U.C.), dined with us, and confirms the
favourable opinion we have entertained of the country on its banks. We
supped at Major Watson's. Mrs. Watson appeared pleasing. Mrs. Caldwell,
wife of Coll. Caldwell, was there.
XOTE. There was a Major Watson on the staff at Quebec in 1791.
He belonged to the 3rd Foot Guards. He became Major-General,
20th December, 1793.
THE RECOLLET CHURCH INTERIOR VIEW.
Sun. 27th I went to church. The service is performed in a room
occasionally used as a Council Chamber. Prince Edward always goes to
church, and his band plays during the service. On the death of the two
Jesuits the Recollet Church will devolve to the English, and as these
men are very old, the English Government do not think it necessary to
build a church for the use of Protestants; indeed, the French allow us to
use the Recollet Church between the hours of their service, but as they
will not admit of fires in it, the Council Chamber is generally used as a
church in the winter.
NOTE. The Recollet Church in 1791 was situated on the site of
the present English Cathedral. The Convent gardens occupied the
site of the present Court House. The picture is from a drawing
showing the interior of the church restored after the Siege of Quebec.
55
DIARY OF MBS. SIMCOE
Mon. 28th I went to a concert, and afterwards to a dance at the
Fusiliers' Barracks.
NOTE. The Fusiliers' Barracks were on the site of the present
City Hall, Quebec.
Tues. 29th I supped at Major Stewart's, of the Royal Regiment of
Artillery, and met Mrs. P. V. (full name not in MSS.),the most unpleasing
woman I have seen in this place. She is just arrived from London.
NOTE. Major John Stewart became Lieutenant-Colonel of the
regiment in 1793.
Wed. 30th St. Andrew's Day. Coll. Simcoe dined with Dr. Mabane
at Woodfleld, near Quebec. He was an army surgeon, came into the Coun-
cil at Quebec, amassed money, and lived what is called most hospitably,
far beyond his fortune.
NOTE. Judge Adam Mabane was a member of the first Executive
Council of Quebec (1775). He at one time resided at Woodfleld,
formerly "Samos/' which is situated three miles
from Quebec. It was an elegant mansion and rich-
ly laid out estate. In 1646, the Company of New
France owned the estate surrounding Woodfield.
After various owners it passed in 1731 into the
hands of Monseigneur Dosquet, Bishop of Samos,
who built the dwelling house. He was consecrated
Bishop of Samos in 1726, and evidently gave the
name of the diocese to the house. 1733 he was
made Bishop of Quebec, having been for three
years coadjutor to Monseigneur Duplessis-Mornay.
In 1763, the land on which the house stood was
conceded by the Quebec Seminary to Thomas
JUDGE MABANE. Ainslie, who renamed the dwelling "Woodfield,"
and in 1769, Judge Adam Mabane acquired it.
He died in 1792, and his sister Miss Isabella Mabane bought it in
1794, holding it until 1805, when it was purchased by the late
Honorable Matthew Bell, who in 1816 sold it to Mr. William
Sheppard.
The original house was built on the brow of the hill overlooking
the St. Lawrence. It was of stone, one storey high, peaked roof, after
the style of architecture which prevailed in those days, something
the same as that of the manor house at Beauport. Judge Mabane
made many alterations, adding a second storey and two pavilion
wings connected with the house by corridors. In 1775-6, it was used
as an hospital for American soldiers. In December, 1842, the house
was destroyed by fire and a new residence built by Mr. Sheppard.
In 1847 Woodfield was sold to Mr. Thomas Gibb, who exchanged it
with his brother, Mr. James Gibb. In 1879, the estate was sold as
a site for a rural cemetery.
The information concerning Samos is from an excellent paper
written by P. B. Casgrain, K.C., Clerk of Circuit Court, Quebec, and
presented to the Royal Society of Canada in 1906.
56
VISITS SURVEYOR-GENERAL HOLLAND
Thurs. 1st Dec. A fine, clear day. I walked near three miles to
Major Holland's, Surveyor-General, where I saw some fine prints of Italy
and Mount Vesuvius.
Observing that the stoves are generally heated to an excessive degree,
I was told that in this house they were always moderate. I looked at the
Fahrenheit's thermometer in the room, and it was 74. They said that it
had been 86 at Chief Justice Smith's a few evenings ago.
THE RESIDENCE KNOWN AS SAMOS.
( From a Drawing in possession of P. B. Casgrain, Quebec.)
NOTE. Major Samuel Holland was born in England in 1717,
receiving his military education there and in Holland. At an early age
he entered the Army as Lieutenant of Artillery
and served some time on the Continent. In 1756
he was promoted to a captaincy and in the follow-
ing year was appointed aide-de-camp to General
Wolfe. He took part in the expedition against
Louisbourg and was engineer-in-chief with Wolfe
and Saunders at Quebec. According to some critics
he stood near Wolfe when that officer fell. In 1763
Holland was appointed Surveyor-General of Quebec
and Director of Surveys in British North America,
and also a member of the Council, Quebec. Many
of the manuscript plans in the Dominion Archives
are signed by him During his stay in Quebec SURV .^, EN . HOLLAND.
Prince Edward paid Holland many visits at his old
mansion on the Ste. Foye Road. He married Marie Josephte Rolet,
by whom he had eight children, the eldest, Colonel John F. Hol-
land, being the first British subject born on Prince Edward Island.
The only living grandson of the Surveyor-General is Augustus E. C.
Holland (son of Frederic Braham Holland), of Wallace Bridge,
N.S. A. E. Holland, of St. Eleanor's, P.E.I., is a great-grand-
son through his father, Samuel Holland, Jr., while Miss Marion
57
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Holland, of Melbourne, Que., and Mrs. Alton Rowland, of Windsor
Mills, Que., daughters of the late H. A. P. Holland, are also great-
grandchildren of the Surveyor-General.
From hence I went in an open carriole (which is a sort of phaeton
body on a sledge or runners, shod with iron instead of wheels) to Wood-
field, to call on Dr. Mabane's sister. It is three miles from Quebec, a
beautiful situation among woods, on the steep and high banks of the St.
Lawrence, and within a mile from Wolfe's Cove, the spot where Wolfe
landed. From hence I went to " Sans Bruit," a house of Coll. Caldwell,
let to a Mr. Philip Tosey, a Church of England clergyman, who emigrated
from Sussex. He is military chaplain, and is also engaged in clearing
7,000 acres of land, and of his skill in farming Mr. Young, the agricul-
turist, has written so largely. I walked from hence to Quebec, two miles.
It is fatiguing to walk on snow when not perfectly frozen, and my half
boots were heavy with icicles.
CANADIAN CARRIOLE.
(From a Draiving by Mrg. Simcoe )
NOTE. "Sans Bruit," on the Ste. Foy Road, was bought by Colonel
Murray, a nephew of General Murray, and named "Sans Bruit,"
which means "without noise." It appears that on one occasion the
Colonel wrote to a merchant in the Lower Town asking him to send
him a list of articles, and at the foot of the letter he wrote "Sans
Bruit, 1 June." The merchant, thinking that this was simply a
caution to him to deliver the goods without noise, arrived at the
house at night and as secretly as possible. The Colonel heard the
disturbance at the door, and discovered that the merchant was doing
his best to call attention to his presence with the least noise possible.
Explanations were given, but the merchant still thought that "Sans
Bruit" was simply a word of caution, and could not possibly be the
name of a residence.
Rev. Philip Tosey was appointed rector of the parish of Quebec
in 1786. He was the second authorized Protestant minister in the
city and was also Ecclesiastical Commissary for the Eastern Dis-
trict.
58
GOVERNOR SIMCOE LEAVES FOR MONTREAL
Fri. 2nd We dined at Belmont, four miles from Quebec, Coll. Cald-
well's, a very indifferent house in appearance, but comfortable within. I
nearly fainted with the heat this evening, and was told that Fahren-
heit thermometer in this drawing-room had one evening been at 100. I
eat part of a metiffe, a bird between a wild goose (the outarde) and a
tame one. It was much better than the tame goose. I found it so cold
coming home after supper in a covered carriole that I wore one of the
fencing masks lined with fur which Capt. Stevenson gave me.
NOTE. The estate of Belmont, on the north side of the Ste. Foy
Road, near Quebec, originally belonged to the Jesuit Fathers. After
passing through different hands it came into the possession of Hon-
ourable Colonel Henry Caldwell, who was Assistant Quartermaster-
General under Wolfe, in 1759. He settled in Quebec after the con-
quest, held the Provincial rank of lieutenant-colonel and was appointed
to the Legislative Council in 1792. In 1794 he became Receiver-
General of the Province. Colonel Caldwell built the mansion, which
was burned in 1798 and rebuilt in 1800. He died there in 1810.
BELMONT, NEAR QUEBEC.
(From a Drawing by Mr*. Simcoe.)
During the years that followed the property was owned by different
parties until the late manager of the Beauport Asylum bought it,
and it is now a private sanitarium, known as the "Belmont Retreat."
Sat. 3rd Coll. Simcoe set out for Montreal, accompanied by Capt.
Stevenson. They wore large beaver coats, and the carriole was filled with
buffalo skins. I copied some views of Italy that Major Holland lent me.
NOTE. I find mention of Captain Stevenson in a letter of General
Simcoe, dated 6th September, 1791. Simcoe refers to Captain Stev-
enson in these words: "I have recommended him to the office of
Deputy Quarter-Master General, to relinquish the idea of not joining
his regiment till the spring, and to accompany me to Quebec, not
thinking it fitting in respect to the commission with which I am
honoured that if I should be blown off the St. Lawrence into an
American port that I should arrive there unattended, and in case
59
DIARY OF MBS. SIMCOE
of personal accident that those whom I value more than life would
be without a protector."
Sun. 4th Mrs. Tosey, wife of the military chaplain, carried me to
church in a carriole like a narrow coach, which, from its length, was much
OFFICERS' CAERIOLE.
(From a Draiving by Mm. Simcoe.)
easier than those usually used, but too heavy for one horse to draw with
ease, therefore seldom used.
Mon. 5th A thaw to-day; the air raw and cold, and the roads full of
cahots a word used in Quebec for the holes and pits made on the snow
RUINS OF INTENDANT'S PALACE, QUEBEC, 1791.
(From an Engraving in the Dominion Archives, Ottawa.)
roads makes driving very jolty; but it did not deter Prince Edward and
a party from driving 8 miles to the village of Lorette. It is the custom
here to make parties to dine in the country at a distance of ten miles.
They often carry a cold dinner, and return to a dance in the evening,
60
MES. SIMCOE DESCRIBES QUEBEC
and this in the severe weather, which seems as much relished by the
English as the Canadians. Their partners must be very agreeable, or they
could never have liked these parties. I drank tea with Mrs. Watson, wife
of Major Watson.
A slight shock of an earthquake was felt in Saint Louis Street this
evening. Quebec is divided into Upper and Lower town. The latter is
inhabited by the merchants for the convenience of the harbour and quays.
They have spacious houses three stories high, built of dark stone, but
the streets are narrow and gloomy. In the suburbs of St. Foy are ruins
of the Intendant's Palace, which was a very large building. The upper
town is more airy and pleasant, though the houses in general are less.
NOTE. Ste. Foy this form of spelling has been used by the
Abbe Scott, who found it in the original documents. When Talon
filled the office of Intendant, he had a brewery built at the Palais,
which was finished in 1671. This industry, quite a new one in the
THE FORT AND CHATEAU ST. Louis, QUEBEC.
(From an Engraving in the Dominion Archive*, Ottawa.)
country, did not prove as profitable as expected. Thereupon the
Intendant made the building his residence, and the Superior
Council held its sittings there. The Council, when first established,
held its sittings in a house called the "Palais" at the corner of
the Place d'Armes and St. Louis Street, on the very spot, in fact,
where the present Court House stands. Talon's brewery was de-
stroyed by fire in the night of the 5th January, 1713. On its ruins
was erected the splendid building of the Intendant's Palace, of
which Kalm and Charlevoix speak in terms of admiration. It was
almost entirely demolished during the siege of 1759. At the present
day a large brewery stands on the ruins of the Intendant's Palace,
and thus the site is restored to its former use.
Mon. 5th The Chateau, the residence of the Governor, just above the
lower town, contains some very good rooms built by Sir Frederick Haldi-
mand. The situation is very high, and commands a most noble prospect
61
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
down the river. The old chateau is in a ruinous state, but it is used for
public offices, and convenient for the Governor as being so near his own
residence that there is only a courtyard between them.
NOTE. Champlain in 1620 built the first Fort St. Louis. In
the year 1646, a contract was passed between the Company of New
France and the contractors for more extensive works of defence in
Quebec. In the following year the foundation of the first Chateau
was laid. The Chateau was built within the boundary of the Fort,
and the distinction between Chateau and Fort has not always been
preserved. Many imagine that the famous Chateau St. Louis was
but one structure, whilst in reality it was com-
posed at one time of three, viz. : Fort St. Louis,
Chateau St. Louis and Haldimand Castle. The
Chateau overhung the cliffs, as may be seen by the
view in "Hawkins" and other works, and in fact
it occupied the site of the present terrace. In
1784, while levelling the yard at the Chateau,
workmen dug up a large stone with a Maltese
cross on it, bearing date 1647. In later years
there was some controversy as to whether the date
on the stone was 1646 or 1647, but it was finally
decided to be the latter, and that the old relic was
intended to commemorate a double event, viz:
STONE* AJ J the J ear % i n which the Fort St. Louis Bastion
was begun and finished, 1646 and 1647. The
stone was first placed in the cheek of the gate of the new
building, Haldimand Castle, at the rear, about on the site of
the present Chateau, and subsequently was placed over the entrance
to the hotel known as the Chateau Frontenac. The Chateau St.
Louis was rebuilt in 1694-8 and another storey added in 1811. It
was destroyed by fire in 1834. Sir Frederick Haldimand lived there
from 1777 to 1784.
Wed. 7th Gen'l. Clarke's servant threw himself from the Chateau
into the Lower Town, some hundred feet, without breaking a bone or
being killed. I received a letter from Coll. Simcoe, who travelled in the
carriole to Three Rivers, 100 miles, where he found the river open, and
was obliged to cross it in a boat and proceed the remaining 100 miles to
Montreal in a cal&che, a carriage like a gig, with a seat in front for the
driver. He reached Pt. aux Trembles, on the island of Montreal and
within three leagues of Montreal, the second day from Quebec.
Sun. llth I dined at Coll. Caldwell's, and soon after I returned home
Coll. Simcoe arrived from Montreal, which place he left yesterday. He
brought with him Mr. Talbot, of the 24th Regt., a relation of Lady Buck-
ingham, who was aide-de-camp to the Marquis while he was Lieutenant
of Ireland, and at whose request Coll. Simcoe takes Mr. Talbot into his
family.
NOTE. Thomas Talbot, son of Richard Talbot and Margaret,
afterwards (1831) Baroness Talbot, was born at Malahide, near Dub-
lin, on 19th July, 1771. In May, 1783, when little more than eleven
years of age, he received a commission in the army, as ensign in the
66th Regiment of Foot. In September of the same year he became a
62
DIAKY OF MBS. SIMCOE
63
COLONEL TALBOT OF POET TALBOT
lieutenant, his retirement on half pay, from 1784 to 1787, immed-
iately following. The Lord Lieutenant of Ireland at that time was
the Marquis of Buckingham, a relative of Talbot's, and he, with
Arthur Wellesley, afterwards Duke of Wellington, acted as aides to the
Marquis. In 1790, Wellesley became a member
of the Irish Parliament, and Talbot joined the
24th Eegiment at Quebec. Soon after Governor
Simcoe's arrival in Canada, Talbot became his
private and confidential secretary, remaining a
member of the Governor's family until 1794. In
June of that year he returned to England, hav-
ing been summoned to join his regiment. In
1796 he was appointed Lieutenant-Colonel of the
5th Foot, which had been stationed at Niagara
during the period he had been on Simcoe's staff,
and three years later commanded the second bat-
talion of the regiment in Holland. Talbot returned to Canada in
1801, seeking a place to establish a settlement. Through an over-
sight he did not accomplish his purpose and again went to Eng-
land, where he was assisted in his efforts by General Simcoe. In
COLONEL TALBOT.
COLONEL TALBOT'S RESIDENCE, PORT TALBOT.
(From a Sketch gent to England in 1S06, and copied by Mm. Simcoe.)
1803, Colonel Talbot took up permanent residence in Upper Canada,
receiving a grant of 5,000 acres in the Township of Dunwich. He
founded what is known as tbe Talbot Settlement, which in 1831
was estimated at 40,000 souls. During his residence in Canada,
Colonel Talbot occasionally visited England, and it was on his last
5 65
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
visit, in 1851, that he met the companion of his early youth, Arthur
Wellesley, then Duke of Wellington. It is a coincidence that they
died within a few months of each other, the "Iron Duke" passing away
on 14th September, 1852, and the "Founder of the Talbot Settle-
ment" on 6th February, 1853.
The house was situated on the cliff at the top of a green slope
; rising to the west from the mouth of the Talbot Creek, in Dunwich.
The place has always been called Port Talbot although there is neither
port nor village in the vicinity. The site of Colonel Talbot's home is
now occupied by a residence built by Colonel (afterwards Lord) Airey
about 1849, left of the wing shown in the picture on the brow of the
hill, nearest the creek.
Thurs. 15th We walked to the provision store, a road by the river-
side below Cape Diamond, always sheltered and well beaten.
Sun. 18t.h We dined at Belmont.
Mon. 19th Dined and supped at Madame Baby's, wife of Monsr.
(Hon.) Francois Baby, a member of the Legislative Council. I ate part of
the moufle of the orignale, or elk. They are sometimes shot by the
Indians, and much esteemed. It was a very rich dish, with an excellent
sauce. I am told the lip of the ox is sometimes sold for it. A pie made of
crte de coys (a pie garnished with cocks' combs) is also a very favourite
dish among the Canadians, and easily procured, as quantities of poultry
are killed in the beginning of the winter and kept hung up in a frozen
state. The poultry eat dry, but when preserved in barrels of snow, as is
the custom at New York, they retain the juices much better.
Tues. 20th We supped at Mr. Thomas Ainslie's, the Collector of
Customs here.
Wed. 21st We dined with Mr. Jenkins Williams, the Clerk of the
Legislative Council. The supper was very elegant. Mrs. Williams is a
very genteel woman, and paints beautifully and dresses very well. She
has not been here above two years, having been educated in London.
NOTE. Jenkins Williams was Judge Jenkins
Williams of the District of Quebec in 1797. He
succeeded Judge Mabane as Judge of the Court
of Common Pleas in 1792.
Thurs. 22nd I had an order from Mgr. Francois
Hubert, the Catholic Bishop of Quebec, for admit-
tance to the Convent des Ursulines, where I went
to-day with Madame Baiby. The Surperieure (La Mere
Saint Louis Gonzague) is a very pleasing, conversible
woman of good address. Her face and manner re-
minded me of Mrs. Gwillim (Mrs. Simcoe in this
writing refers to a relative of her own, not her
mother, who died at her birth). The nuns appeared
cheerful, pleased to see visitors, and disposed to con-
verse and ask questions. Their dress is black with
MGR. HUBERT. a white hood, and some of them looked very pretty
in it. They carry cleanliness and neatness to the
greatest pitch of perfection in every part of the convent, and are indus-
trious in managing a large garden. They educate children at this con-
vent, taking both pensionnaires and day boarders. They make many deco-
rations for their altars and church, and gild picture frames. They showed
a fine piece of embroidery worked by an English nun, since dead. Some
of them make boxes and pin cushions of birch bark, worked with dyed
66
PUBLIC BUILDINGS IN QUEBEC
hair of the orignale or elk. It is so short that it must be put
through the needle for every stitch, which makes it tedious. All
sorts of cakes and sweetmeats are made here, and all the desserts in
Quebec are furnished by the nuns. They dry apples in a very peculiar
manner. They are like dried apricots. All these things are of use to main-
tain them, their finances being very moderate.
Another convent is called the Hotel Dieu, for the reception of the
sick, whether French or English. It is attended by the medical men on
the staff, who speak highly of the attention payed by the nuns to the sick
people. The General Hospital is a convent a mile out of the town, where
sick and insane people are received.
NOTE. Mgr. Jean Frangois Hubert was born in Quebec on the
23rd February, and became Bishop of Quebec on 12th June, 1788.
He died at the General Hospital, Quebec, on 17th October, 1797,
Mother St. Louis de Gonzague, who was several times Superior of the
Ursulines Convent, died on the 23rd March, 1802.
CONVENT OF THE URSULINES, QUEBEC, 1791.
(From a Drawing by Richard Short.)
NOTE. The General Hospital of Quebec occupied the site of the
Convent of the Eecollets on the banks of the River St. Charles. It
was first occupied as an hospital on 30th October, 1692. In 1740
and 1859, additions were made, and considerable repairs in 1850.
There do not appear to have been many editions of pictures since
1743. The present hospital is on the same site as it was in 1791.
Fri. 23 The great church or cathedral stands in the centre of the
town, and appears to be filled with people at all hours of the day. It is
a handsome building. Near to it is the seminary, where boys are educated,
and some of the Catholic clergy reside there. The Jesuits' or Recollet
67
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Church is a handsome building, ornamented with some pictures, but no
fine paintings. Two models of ships are suspended in it, placed there in
commemoration of the arrival of some of the settlers from France. The
only two Jesuits living have spacious apartments near the church, and a
good library and large gardens. I went to a subscription ball this evening.
There were three rooms well lighted, and the company well dressed.
NOTE. The Cathedral stands on the same ground as in 1791.
The first parish church at Quebec was destroyed by fire in 1640 and
the new structure, which afterwards became the Cathedral, was not
commenced till September, 1644, under the name of Notre Dame de
la Paix. It was opened in 1650. During the siege of Quebec in 1759
nearly all the wooden portion of the church was destroyed, but it was
THE GENERAL HOSPITAL, QUEBEC.
(From an old Drawing in the Dominion Archives, Ottawa.)
restored between 1769 and 1771. In 1843 considerable changes were
made at the east end, but the building is practically the same in
the interior as it was in 1791.
Sat. 24th Dr. T. M. Nooth says a great light was observed last night
in the air in a direction N.E. beyond St. Paul's Bay, which is 30 leagues
below Quebec, opposite Isle aux Coudres, in the St Lawrence. He supposed
an eruption had taken place from a volcano, which is believed from the
reports of Indians to be in those parts, and a fresh eruption might have
taken place there, occasioned by an earthquake which was severely felt a
few days since near St. Paul's Bay. However, there is much of conjecture
in the supposition about the existence of this volcano.
NOTE. The Quebec Gazette, of the 22nd December, 1791, con-
tains a letter from St. Paul's Bay written on December llth, giving an
NATAL DAY OF THE PROVINCES
account of a violent earthquake that occurred on the 6th at Bay St.
Paul and relating the fact that there were thirty shocks in one day.
On the 17th, about five o'clock in the evening "a globe of fire appearing
to the eye of the size of a 48-pound cannon ball was observed in the
sky coming from the southwest striking towards the northeast, disap-
pearing in its perpendicular descent above St. Paul's Bay, after
bursting with an explosion." This strange "great light" which Dr.
Nooth observed on the evening of the 23rd may have been a repeti-
tion of "the globe of fire" on the 15th.
Sun. 25th Christmas Day. I went with Madame Baby at 5 in the
morning to the Cathedral Church, to see the illuminations of the altar,
which to those who have not seen
the highly-decorated Roman Cath-
olic churches in Europe is worth
seeing. The singing and chanting
was solemn. I was wrapped up
very much, and wore a kind of
cloth lined with eiderdown, a very
comfortable head-dress; but the
cold was intense, for the Roman
Catholics will not admit of fires in
their churches, lest the pictures
should be spoiled. I saw no fine
pictures.
Mon. 26th This day the divi-
sion of the Province of Quebec into
Upper and Lower Canada, and the
new constitution given to the
former, was announced by pro-
clamation. There were dinners at
the hotels and illuminations at
night to commemorate this event.
NOTE. This proclamation
was issued at Quebec on the 18th
of November, 1791, and decreed
that the division of the two pro-
vinces should take effect on 26th
December, 1791.
Wed. 28th I was at a very
pleasant ball at the Chateau, and
danced with Prince Edward.
THE CATHEDRAL, QUEBEC,
AS RESTORED.
(From Routhier's "Quebec.")
Thurs. 29th We drove to Woodfield, and admired the beautiful scenery
around it.
Sat. 31st We drove to Belmont. We saw two Indians from the village
of Lorette who had mocassins to sell, a kind of leather shoe made of
untanned deer skins, which I was glad to buy for the children on account
of their softness. These Lorette Indians were originally Hurons, con-
verted, but reluctantly, by the Jesuits. They speak French, and are so
intermixed with that people that they scarcely appear to differ but in
dress. They wear shirts, leggings and blankets, and the men wear fur or
cloth caps.
I walked this evening at nine o'clock to Fort Louis Gate, one of the
old gates of the city.
69
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
NOTE. The Indians at Lorette, about eight miles from Quebec,
were of the Huron tribe. After the Indian massacres of 1648-9,
parties of the tribe sought refuge in different places, one section
seeking refuge on the Island of Orleans. They were afterwards
located in Quebec, and upon Marquis de Tracy effecting a truce in
1665 with the Iroquois, the enemies of the Hurons, the latter left the
ST. Louis GATE, 1791.
(From a Drainng in the Dominion Archives, Ottawa.)
city. After several Sittings they finally, in 1697, settled at Lorette,
where some hundred descendants of the once warlike race live to-day.
Mrs. Simcoe had reference to St. Louis Gate, the entrance to
Quebec from the west. The Fort St. Louis stood on the edge of the
cliff, and the entrance to the remains of the Fort in 1792 was through
the Chateau Haldimand.
70
DEESS OF THE HABITANTS
Sat. 31st The moon shone bright, and, however intense the cold is
here, it is so extremely still at night that it is less felt than in England,
where a less degree of cold is attended with wind. There is little wind
here, except with a snowstorm of fine snow. The French call it poudre or
powdered snow, and to travel with that blowing in one's face is very dis-
agreeable. The Canadians wear scanty, thick woollen
coats, and sometimes leather ones, with hoods to
them, over a bonnet rouge, a red bonnet. The habi-
tants call it a capitshaw, and their coats are tied
round with a coloured worsted sash. They have
always a pipe in their mouths. The French women
wear long, thin linen cloaks, sometimes hoods lined
with eiderdown, but often walk in the street with
only a muslin cap.
There was an anniversary dinner to-day, attended
by those gentlemen who particularly distinguished
themselves in the defence of the town when attacked
by Montgomery on 31st Dec., 1775. Coll. Caldwell
was among the most active persons on this occasion.
This day five years since (31st Dec., 1786) the
air became in a few hours so dark that it was neces-
sary to light candles. At three o'clock black clouds M ONS GRAVE DE LA
were continually rolling onwards from the southwest. " RIVE.
The darkness continued the whole of the next day,
when a person could not toe discerned on the opposite side of the street.
It was supposed to be occasioned by the eruption of a volcano. Pere
Grav6, Superieur, Seminaire, believes the report of Indians, who assert
that they have seen a burning mountain to the north-east of St. Paul's
Bay.
Accounts received from Montreal of the defeat of 2,000 of the people
of the United States, about twenty miles from the Miami Fort, by 1.400
Indians. They had barricaded their camp with flour barrels, etc. The
Indians attacked them, beat them, and took six pieces of cannon, all their
provisions, new clothing, etc., killed 1,200 men, Coll. Butler and other
officers, among whom, it was supposed, St. Clair fell. The troops retreated
and were pursued by 400 Indians, who probably would have destroyed them
all if they had not stopped to plunder.
NOTE. Mons. Frangois Grave de la Eive during
the interval between 1768 and 1802, was several
times Superior of the Quebec Seminary. He
\vas born in France and came to Canada in 1754,
and for many years was Vicar of the Diocese of
Quebec. He died, aged 71, in the Hotel Dien,
Quebec, on 4th February, 1802, and was buried
in the Seminary Chapel.
John Butler was born in New London, Conn.,
in 1725, his father, an Irish officer, having come
to the North American Colonies with his regi-
ment about 1711. Butler's first service was as a
captain in the Indian Department in the expe-
dition against Crown Point under Sir William Johnson, where he
greatly distinguished himself. He also served under Abercrombie
at Ticonderoga and with Bradstreet at the capture of Fort
Frontenac. He accompanied Johnson against Fort Niagara as
71
COLONEL BUTLER.
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
second in command of the Indians and after General Prideaux's
death he followed him in the command. He afterwards served
throughout the Revolutionary War in command
of the famous corps of "Rangers" bearing his
name. This corps was disbanded June, 1784.
Butler, after the war, was appointed Deputy-Sup-
erintendent of the Indians. He died near Niag-
ara in 1796, and was buried in the private
burying ground of the family.
General St. Clair was an American General of
considerable reputation. He commanded at Ti-
conderoga in 1777 and had to evacuate the fort
on Burgoyne's attack in July. He was Governor
of the Ohio territory in 1789-1802. The fight at
GEN ST CLAIU M iam i between the Indians and the United
States troops occurred on the 3rd November,
1791. He was defeated in an ambuscade by Indians near Fort
Recovery in Ohio. After defeat he resigned his command and was
succeeded by General Wayne, who was appointed to conduct the
operations with a newly recruited force. (See Archives, Q. 57, p.
178.)
CHAPTER VII.
MRS. SIM CO E SPENDS AN ENJOYABLE WINTER.
From the day of her arrival in Quebec, Mrs. Simcoe's time had
been fully occupied. It was one round of unalloyed -pleasure. Every-
one in military and social circles seemed determined that there
should be nothing lacking to make her winter's sojourn enjoyable.
The deeds of hospitality were exemplified in the fullest sense of the
term and ofttimes after the return of the Governor and his wife to
England, the memories of the pleasant months spent in the "Ancient
City" during the winter and spring of 1791-2 were the subject of
conversation at Wolford. The Simcoes made many friends
in Quebec. Mrs. Simcoe was a most lovable
woman, highly educated, well informed, bright,
cheerful, and always ready to join in the social
festivities that were a great feature in Quebec a
century ago. Her husband during this period
won the lasting friendship of Prince Edward.
They seemed by instinct to be drawn to each other.
Between them a personal correspondence con-
tinued up to the time of the General's death. The
intimacy, begun in Quebec, was cemented in the
years that followed. It was a generous friend-
ship, and Prince Edward, then and after he
became Duke of Kent, never forgot to write from op
time to time a friendly line to Simcoe.
But, with all the social appointments, Mrs. Simcoe found time
to keep up her diary, and her first record in 1792 was of a sermon
she had heard in the old Cathedral of Quebec.
Pri. 6th Jan., 1792 Le Jour des Rois the Epiphany visit of the Wise
Men to Christ. I went with Madame Baby to the Cathedral, and heard
Monsr. du Plessis, the Bishop's Chaplain, preach a most excellent sermon
on the subject of the Kings of the East seeking Jesus Christ. His action
was animated and his sermon impressive. The Bishop himself was
present. He wore a white muslin dress and a rich mantle embroidered
with gold; blue silk gloves, worked with gold; his mittens pink and
silver, blue and gold. He changed them two or three times during the
service, which had a theatrical, poor and unfit appearance.
NOTE. Joseph Octave Plessis was born at Montreal in March,
1762, He was ordained priest at Quebec on llth March, 1786, and
from time to time was employed as professor of humanity at the
College of St. Raphael, also as Secretary to the Bishop of Quebec
and curate of the capital. In September, 1797, he was created
coadjutor to Bishop Denault, and obtained the royal acceptance
73
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
through General Prescott. He succeeded Mgr. Denault and took
possession of his seat on 17th January, 1806. He left for England
and Eome in 1819, and in consideration of services rendered to
England during the French Revolution and during the War of
3812, he met with a kind and hearty reception from Lord Bathurst.
He died at the General Hospital, Quebec, on 4th December, 1825.
Bishop Plessis was the greatesit man who ever occupied the Roman
Catholic episcopal seat at Quebec since Frangois de Laval Mont-
morency.
St. Joseph Street, in the suburb of St. Roch, Quebec, was named
after Bishop Plessis, and it is interesting to note that the church in
St. Roch's was built by him on land donated by Mr. John Mure,
a Presbyterian. The church was dedicated to St. Joseph.
Sat. 7th Fahrenheit's thermometer 23 degrees below. I rub silk
gowns with flannel to see the beautiful streams of fire which are emitted
with a crackling noise during the cold weather.
Tues. 10th I bought an eiderdown quilt which cost 4 16s.
NOTE. It is generally admitted that money has doubled in value
since 1791, so 4 16s. would now be worth 9 12s. or $36.85. Lambert
says in his Travels (1806-8) that the dollar or Spanish piastre
was worth five shillings in Canadian currency, and that to bring
sterling money into Canadian currency, one-ninth must be added.
Thurs. 12th I drove out in a covered carriole.
Wed. 18th A ball at the Chateau. This being Queen Charlotte's birth-
night, .there were near 30>0 people. The ladies were well dressed.
Sat. 21st Miss Johnson dined with me, and we went to a dance in
the evening at the Fusiliers' mess room very agreeable. The ther-
mometer is 24 degrees below. In the New York paper I read of " a leaf
imported from Botany Bay, which when dried goes off by the application
of a match with an explosion like gunpowder, and the air is agreeably
perfumed."
NOTE. Miss Johnson was Ann, eldest daughter of Sir John
Johnson. She married, in 1797, Colonel Edward Macdonell, Deputy
Quartermaster General.
Tues. 24th I gave a dance and supper to a dozen of the 7th Fusiliers
and as many young dancing ladies. My rooms being small obliged me to
invite so few, and only those who danced.
Sun. 29th Drove in a covered carriole towards the Isle of Orleans, an
island in the St. Lawrence seven miles below Quebec. The ice was so
rough and snow uneven that I was almost seasick.
Mon. 30th I went in an open carriole to see the Falls of Montmor-
ency, six miles from Quebec. The river roars over a rocky bed among
woods before it reaches the precipice, over which it falls 280 feet. The
rocky sides are covered on the summit with wood. Sir Frederick Haldi-
mand built a summer house projecting over the water, supported by
beams. We descended to it by steps cut in the rock, and from it we had
a fine view of the Fall. Sir Frederick Haldimand built a good house near
the bank of the river and commanding a fine prospect. Prince Edward
hired it last year, but as he went to Quebec every day, found the stony
roads prejudicial to his horses' feet.
74
MOXTMORENCY HOUSE AT THE FALLS
NOTE. Sir Frederick Haldimand (1718-1791), lieutenant-gen-
eral, colonel commandant of the 60th Foot, was a Swiss by birth.
In 1756 he was lieutenant-colonel of the Royal Americans, afterwards
the 60th Foot and now the King's Royal Rifle Corps, then being
recruited in America under command of the Earl
of Loudoun. On the 27th of June, 1778, he was
appointed to succeed Sir Guy Carleton, after-
wards the first Lord Dorchester, as Governor and
Commander-in-Chief in Canada, which post he
held until 1784, when he returned to England. A
an administrator in Canada he is accused, says
Lee in the National Biography, of being harsh
and arbitrary and more than one action for false
imprisonment was successfully maintained against
him on his return to England. Haldimand's com-
missions, 1758-85, including the entire records
that accumulated during his public career, are g, u p HALDIMAND.
in the British Museum and copies are in the
Archives Department in Ottawa, He built the residence known as
Haldimand House, Quebec.
Of the summer house, the Baroness Riedesel says in her diary:
<r When we first went to see that sublime scene (Montmorency Falls)
T happened to say to the General that it must be delightful to have
a little dwelling opposite to it. Three weeks later (in the summer
of 1782) we accompanied him thither a second time and after having
climbed up a steep ascent and the detached rocks, which were con-
nected by small bridges and reminded me of some descriptions of
Chinese gardens, we at last reached the top, where the General
begged my hand to show me into a small house, which was as it were
suspended on the cataract The foundations of the
house consisted of eight strong beams laid athwart beneath which the
cataract hurried down with tremendous velocity."
"The good house" Mrs. Simcoe refers to was Montmorency House,
which is not to be confused with Chateau Haldimand, the addition
built in 1784 to the Castle of St. Louis. With Montmorency House
Prince William Henry fell in love when in Canada; from 1791 to
1794 Prince Edward made it his home in the summer time; and now
the Haldimand House Kent Lodge is a summer hotel, the home
of many a tourist, who comes to be thrilled by the rushing waters
of the Montmorency.
In the Supplement to the Quebec Gazette, 22nd December, 1792,
is the following notice. "For sale, the elegant villa of the late Sir
Frederick Haldimand, K.B., delightfully situated near the Falls of
Montmorency, with the farm house, Quebec, 1st December, 1791."
Tues. 31st A very pleasant dance at the Chateau this evening.
Tues. Feb. 7th At two o'clock the kitchen chimney was on fire. It
was soon extinguished, as the people here are expert in using fire engines.
The houses being covered with shingles (wood in the shape of tiles), fires
75
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
spread rapidly if not immediately put out. Prince Edward, General Clarke,
etc., dined with Coll. Simcoe, and this accident retarded the dinner, so I
went to bed before the dinner.
Wed. 8th Supped at Mrs. Smith's, wife of the Chief Justice.
OTE. Chief Justice William Smith, born at
York, 1728, educated at Yale, was appointed
a member of His Majesty's Council in 1769.
After the evacuation of New York he withdrew to
England with Sir Guy Carleton, who was at that
time commander-in-chief. Mr. Smith remained
in England until 1786 when he was appointed
first Chief Justice of Canada and continued to
hold the office until his death seven years later.
His second son, Honorable William Smith, wrote
our first Canadian history in English.
Thurs. 9t<h Coll. and Mrs. Cal dwell and Major
and Mrs. Watson dined with us. We went to the
Assembly, where an account was brought of our house
being burnt down. Coll. Simcoe went home and
found it only the chimney on fire. I was not told of
CHIEF JUSTICE
SMITH.
it, thouglh an officious man afterwards assured me he would have informed
me had he known it.
Sat. llth We supped at Madame Baby's, but not till 12 o'clock, it
being a fast day. Then there was a good dinner.
Sun. 12th Walked by the sea.
THE PROVISION STORE, QUEBEC.
(From a Drawing by Mrs. Simcoe.)
Mon. 13th We walked to the provision store before breakfast; dined
at Belmont. The thermometer 3 degrees below.
Tues. 14th Supper at Major Stewart's (of the Royal Regiment of
Artillery). The Prince was there. During the winter large masses of
ice float down the river, and the people who come to market from the
opposite shore pass in canoes, which they quit when they come to one of
76
MBS. SIMCOE MEETS QUEBEC NOTABLES
these large bodies of ice, and carry their canoes across the ice on their
shoulders and launch them again in the water, and this is repeated several
times before they reach Quebec, where they sell a fat turkey for 15d.
and provisions, all kinds, in proportion. The mode of crossing the river
appears so difficult and dangerous that it seems hardly credible till it has
been seen. This evening it was announced that " le pont est pris " (the
bridge has formed), that is, there is now a complete body of ice filling up
the river, and canoes will be no longer used, as carrioles will drive across,
which is very useful to the peasants and very pleasant to those who drive
for amusement, and this year the weather, having been calm and the wind
with the tide when it froze, the ice is very smooth. It is seven years since
a bridge was formed.
Wed. 15th Coll. Simcoe and I were going to walk on the ice bridge.
As there was a narrow space containing water between the land and the
ice, a plank was laid across, which Coll. Simcoe had passed, and stepping
back to give me his hand, he slipped into the water, but luckily caught
hold of the plank which supported 'him until the Canadians who were near
and on my screaming out " Au secours " (help) assisted him out. Had the
plank given way he must have gone under the ice, and it would have been
impossible to have got out. We walked to Monsr. Baby's, and I ran home
to order dry clothes to be brought there.
Fri. 17th I went to the ball at the Chateau. There was also a dance
at the barracks to-night.
Sat. 18th One of the casmettes (or bombproof chambers) near Fort
Louis Gate has been fitted up for a theatre. Some Canadian gentlemen
represented the French play of " Le Medecin malgre lui " (MolieYe) and
"La Comtesse D'Escarbagnas " (Moliere). I was surprised those people,
unused to see theatrical representations, could perform as well as they did,
and I was much amused. The Fusiliers are going to act plays, and as
Coll. Simcoe does not like to see officers so employed he does not intend to
go to the theatre again. I went across the river to Point Levy yesterday.
The ice was excellent, and the sun excessively hot.
We walked as far as the church. The firs looked
beautiful among the snow this bright day. We met
the Prince in a carriole. I gathered bunches of
berries from a low shrub Dr. Nooth called a clither.
People cut holes in the ice and catch, fish through
them. Poisson d'or (gold fish) pickerall are the
most esteemed fish.
NOTE. Superintendent-General T. M. Nootii
was on the staff of the Quebec Hospital.
Sun. 19th Dined at Monsr. Baby. Met Madame
Tonacour and Monsr. and Madame De Salaberry, etc.
NOTE. Colonel, the Honorable Francois Baby,
Adjutant-General of Militia of Lower Canada,
was born in Montreal, 4th December, 1733. He
was a member of the Executive and Legislative HON. FRANCOIS BABY.
Councils and deputy of the French-Canadians to
the Court of Great Britain in 1773. He married in 1786, Delle
Marie-Anne Tarieu de Lanaudiere. He took an active part,
together with his brother-in-law, Charles Tarieu de Lanaudiere, then
A.D.C. to Lord Dorchester, in the events of the time. Hi? death
occurred at Quebec in October, 1820.
77
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
MME. DE SALABERBY.
Monsieur Ignace-Michel L. A. de Salaberry, whose father settled
in Canada in 1735, was born at the Manor House, Beauport, Que.,
5th July, 1752, and was edu-
cated in France. He married
Catherine Frangois de Hertel.
Monsieur de Salaberry was a
friend of the Duke of Kent.
Colonel Charles de Salaberry,
hero of the Battle of Chateau-
guay, which took place on 26th
October, 1813, was the son of
Monsieur and Madame de Sala-
berry. She died at Beauport
on 28th January, 1824, her
husband's death taking place
MONS. UE SALABERRY. on 22nd March, 1825.
Mon. 20th The heads of the French clergy dined with Coll. Simcoe
tire Bishop, Monsr. Grave the Vicar-General, Pere Barre, etc. Pere
Barre quite an Irishman and too jocose for his station.
NOTE. From his wit and repartee, Mrs. Sim-
coe evidently thought Father P. Felix de Berey,
(pronounced Barry) an Irishman. He was, how-
ever, born in Montreal, on 10th June, 1720, and
elevated to the priesthood in 1743. His father
was a military officer, and Father de Berey was
a military almoner, wounded on the battlefield
in ministering the last Sacraments. He was
the last Provincial of the Recollets in Canada.
De Berey gave dinners to the Governors, even to
the Duke of Kent, and proposed a toast in his
honor. He was invited to the
officers' mess and his witty re-
marks and brilliant conversa-
tion were greatly appreciated there. He died
18th May, 1800.
Tues. 21st 'Madame Baby, Mons. and Madame de
Salaberry, etc., dined with us and stayed till two in
the morning. Ther. 26 degrees below.
Sat. 25th Walked to the provision store. The
scene on the river is now a very gay one. Numbers
are skating; carrioles driven furiously, as the Cana-
dians usually do; and wooden huts are built on the
snow, where cakes and liquor are sold, and they have
stoves in their huts.
Thurs. March 1st Walked to Pt. Levy. MoNS - DE SALABERRY.
Fri. 2nd I gave a dance to forty people. The Prince was present.
We have left the house we had in St. John Street, and taken one the back
rooms of which look into the Ursuline gardens. By removing a wooden
partition upstairs we have made a room, 45 feet long, with a tea room
FATHER DE BEREY.
SNOW SHOEING A MODE OF TEAVEL
and a card room adjoining, which makes a good apartment for a dance,
with a supper room below. The Fusiliers are the best dancers, well
dressed, and the best-looking figures in a ballroom that I ever saw. They
are all musical and like dancing, and bestow as much money, as other
regiments usually spend in wine, in giving balls and concerts, which
makes them very popular in this place, where dancing is so favourite an
amusement that no age seems to exclude people from partaking of it;
and, indeed, I find giving dances much the easiest mode of entertaining
company, as well as the most pleasant to them. Mr. Talbot (Lieut.
Talbot) manages all. the etiquette of our house, and is au fait in all those
points which give weight in matters of no moment.
Sun. 4th Capt. Shaw, of the Queen's Rangers, and four other gentle-
men arrived from Frederickstown, in New Brunswick, which is 370 miles
from hence. They walked on snow shoes 240 miles in 19 days, came up
the river St. John, and crossed many small lakes. Their mode of travel-
ling was to set out at daybreak, walk till twelve, when they stood ten
minutes (not longer, because of the cold) to eat. They then resumed walk-
ing till half-past four, when they chose a spot, where there was good fire-
wood, to encamp. Half the party (which consisted of 12) began felling
wood; the rest dug away the snow till they had made a pit many feet in
circumference, in which the fire was to be made. They cut cedar and
pine branches, laid a blanket on them, and wrapping themselves in another,
found it sufficiently warm, with their feet close to a large fire, which was
kept up all night. Capt. McGill, who set out with them, cut his knee in
felling wood, and was forced to stay at the Madawaska Settlement (now
Edmundston, N.B.).
One of the attendants, a Frenchman, used to the mode of travelling,
carried 60 Ibs. weight and outwalked them all. They steered by the sun,
a river, and a pocket compass. Captain Shaw is a very sensible, pleasant
Scotchman, a Highlander. His family are to come from New Brunswick
to Upper Canada next summer.
Capt. Shaw gave me a description of the moose deer, which they call
here " Orignale," and of which we eat the moufle. Their legs are so
long and their bodies so heavy that they step to the bottom of the snow,
but they are so strong that they notwithstanding trot 10 miles an hour and
travel through the most unbeaten country, subsisting on the moss of the
trees and young boughs. They travel in droves, the
strongest going first, and when they come to a good
place for browsing stay till they have taken all the
tender, and then seek another station. They may
be tamed, but if several are not kept together, in
the spring they will probably return to the woods.
The moose deer is frequently met with in New Bruns-
wick, and the caribou, which is so light an animal
as scarcely to break the snow. I have seen a caribou
at Mr. Finlay's. It was like an English fawn.
NOTE. 'Captain ^neas Shaw was a captain in
the Queen's Rangers and served in the American
War. He settled in York (Toronto) in 1793 and
lived in a dwelling some hundred feet northwest
of the present site of Trinity College on Queen COIOXKL SH\\V
Street. He became Lieutenant-Colonel in 1799. He
attained the rank of Major-General, and was a member from June,
1793, of the Executive Council of Upper Canada. General Shaw
died 15th February, 1815, and was buried in St. James' Churchyard,
on the west side of the cathedral. His grandson is Colonel George
79
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Shaw, formerly of the Post Office Department, and in his time an
active member of the militia.
Captain John MoGill was an officer of the Queen's Bangers under
Lieutenant-Colonel Simcoe in the War of the Eevolution. He
settled in Upper Canada and was Commissioner of the Stores in
1793, Inspector-General of Accounts in 1805, and Eeceiver-General
in 1818. He owned the site on Queen Street where the Metropolitan
Church now stands, and built a commodious cottage upon it. This
residence was known as "McGill Cottage," and in 1813, when the
Americans visited York the women and children of the town were
sent for safety to McGill Cottage, which was occupied by Captain
McGill and his wife, who was a sister of the Honorable George
Crookshank. A sister of Captain McGill married a McCutcheon,
their sons being Peter and James McCutcheon. The elder son, Peter,
was the inheritor of the bulk of the property in Upper Canada of
Honorable Peter McGill, and it was a condition of his will that Mr.
McCutcheon should assume the name "McGill." The Honorable Mr.
McGill was from Dumfriesshire, Scotland, and came to Canada in
1809. He was President of the Bank of Montreal from June. 1834,
until June, 1860, and died in September of that year.
The Honorable James McGill, founder of Mc-
Gill College in Montreal, was not related to the
foregoing family. He was born in Glasgow, in
1744, and died in Montreal in 1813.
Bishop Strachan, of Toronto, also married a
McGill, a daughter of Dr. Wood, of Cornwall,
and widow of Dr. Andrew McGill of Montreal,
but she was not connected with the families of
either John, Peter or James McGill.
Many references to the McGill families in
Canada in different publications conflict, owing
rlON. J AS. JylCijILL. . ., / , i n i * i
to the fact that there was similarity of
Christian names in all the families, hence the detail of relation-
ship given.
Tues. 6th We dined and supped at the Hon. Hugh Finlay's, the
Deputy Postmaster-General of Canada under P.G.M. of Great Britain.
NOTE. T'he Honorable Hugh Finlay was Deputy Postmaster-
General for Canada from 1774 to 1800. He had served from
1750-1774 under Benjamin Franklin, first English Deputy Post-
master-General for the British-American Provinces.
Wed. 7th Drove in an open carriole to Coll. Caldwell's. I gave a
dance to thirty people this evening. I was this week in a covered carriole,
driving towards the Isle of Orleans, but part of the river having frozen,
the ice was in so rough a state that I was quite seasick in the carriage.
As we passed the furrows of ice, the learge heaps, collected in some places
many feet high, formed an extraordinary sight.
Fri. 9th Chief Justice Smith dined here. The Fusiliers acted "The
Wonder " to-night.
Tues. 13th Supped at Mr. Isaac Ogden's, Judge of the Admiralty.
80
MRS. SIMCOE'S ROUND OF PLEASURE
NOTE. Honorable Justice Isaac Ogden of Quebec and Montreal,
Court of King's Bench district of Montreal, appointed by Guy
Carleton. He was born in New Jersey in 1740. In 1785, he was
Judge of the Admiralty Court, Quebec, and later
returned to Montreal. He resigned in 1818 and
died in London, Eng., in 1824.
Wed. 14th Supped at Mr. Coffin's.
NOTE. Thomas Ashton Coffin was a member
of the celebrated family who had their descent
from Trisitram Coffin of Alwington, south of the
boundary between Somerset and Devon in Eng-
land, who settled in 1643 in New England at
Salisbury and then went to Nantucket, at that
time a dependency of New York. Thomas Ashton
Coffin was private secretary of Sir Guy Carleton
(Baron Dorchester in 1786) by whose side he sat Hox lsAAC OGDEN
in the last boat which left Castle Garden on the
evacuation of New York in 1783. When Dorchester became Gover-
nor-General of Canada in 1786, Coffin accompanied him and by his
influence was appointed Secretary and Controller of Accounts in
Lower Canada. He died in England in 1810. Miss G. L. Coffin
of Montreal is a connection of Thomas Coffin.
Thurs. 15th Went to a musical party and a dance at the barracks,
which was very pleasant. The Fusiliers all dance as well as Count
Schernischoff or any famous Russian.
Another mail arrived, and no letter from you, my dear friend (Mrs.
Hunt, who, with her daughter, Miss Hunt, took charge of Mrs. Simcoe's
children at Wolford during the absence of the parents in Canada). How
is it that you I esteem so wise should not have had observation enough to
have found out by the newspapers that packets go to New York and Hali-
fax every month, and are immediately forwarded from thence here? Do
you not remember Lake Champlain and Lake George, Hudson's River,
Skeneborough, on a creek of that name, Albany and all that route from
New York to Quebec, which you have so often drawn, and which is passed
constantly and in a rapid manner when the lakes are frozen? This town
is now supplied with fresh cod in a frozen state from Boston, distant 500
miles, and it is sold at 6d. per Ib. We 'have had some excellent venison
from the township of Matilda (Iroquois, in Dundas County). I daresay
you remember that name on the map, above 400 miles from hence. I find
our maps to be little better than sketches, little of the country having been
surveyed. The surveyors draw slowly, and, I am told, when they want to
suit their maps to the paper, do not scruple cutting off a few miles of the
river or adding to it.
Coll. Simcoe has had a letter from Capt. Murray, of the " Triton,"
from Halifax, which place he compares to Capua, in southern Italy. Coll.
Simcoe makes the same complaint of Quebec, where he finds few men of
learning or information, literary society not being necessary to the amuse-
ment of ladies. I am very well off amongst the women, and really find this
a delightful place. The morning Coll. Simcoe and I spend together in
reading, walking, etc. In the evening I go to balls, concerts, suppers, and,
when I am with French families, je fais la conversation d'une fagon d pew
pr<?s parisienne (I speak as readily as a Parisian) as Monsr. -Baby is
pleased to say and to have everybody I see assiduous to please me, and
6 81
DIARY OF MBS. SIMCOE
to have nothing to do but to follow my own fancy, is a satisfactory mode
of living, not always attainable on your side of the Atlantic. How happy
I am.
I quite enjoy the thoughts of the long journey we have before us and
the perpetual change of scene it will afford, but the people 'here think it as
arduous and adventurous an undertaking as it was looked upon to be by
my friends in England. It is surprising that those who are so much
nearer to a country should esteem it as impracticable as those who are so
many thousand miles distant.
Capt. Murray was all but lost in going to St. John, and from thence to
Halifax. The day after he left Quebec the river was so full of ice his
sailing would have been impossible. No ships ever left Quebec as late as
the "Triton.". The merchantmen sail on the 30th of October. Capt. Shaw
also advises me not to believe the formidable accounts I have heard of
rattlesnakes, of which he has seen numbers in Carolina. He affirms they
never bite but when trod upon or attacked, and the wound they make is
cured by well-known herbs, as horehound and juice from the plantain
plant.
Sun. 18th We walked from seven till nine this morning on the
Heights of Abram, the plain on which Genl. Wolfe was killed. It is said
he was shot from behind a fence by a French priest who is still living.
The troops daily practice walking on these plains in snowshoes. The
racket is made of deer or elk skins. The frame is of light wood an inch
thick, 2 1 / feet long, 14 inches broad. We found it dry at this early hour
on the track the troops had beaten.
NOTE. During the engagement of the 13th September, 1759, Wolfe
received three wounds. The first was probably from the Indians on
the right, the second from the French-Canadians
who were advancing in the centre; and the third
seems to have been from the Indians or Canadians
in the bushes on Wolfe's right, sheltered in the
only bit of short brushwood on the top of the cliff.
The statement that Wolfe was shot by a French
priest behind a fence is absurd, because there
were no fences on the Plains, nor any kind of
shelter beyond the bushes before mentioned, on
the cliff. It has also been said, and the state-
ment often repeated by newspapers, that Wolfe
was shot by one of his own men in revenge for
n, IT wr, T r fome punishment which Wolfe had inflicted for
ljrh,i\fc,KAL WOLFE. ... _ ' . ___. . - . _ _ _ ,
disobedience. This is also improbable, because
Wolfe, at the time of his fatal wound, was at the head of his army
in advance of Bragg's Regiment. As he received the wound in front,
it must have proceeded from the enemy.
Mon. 19th We dined at Mr. William's, the Clerk of the Council. Went
in the evening to the concert, and returned to supper, an elegant supper
in the Council Room, after which there was music.
Thurs. 22nd Walked to " Sans Bruit." Capt. (Benjamin) Fisher, of
the Royal Engineers, lent me his portfolio, in which there were some beauti-
ful views taken in the Island of St. Domingo; I almost regretted not to
have been in the West Indies. We supped at Mr. Ainslie's, the Collector
of Customs, to-night.
Sat. 31st We walked to Coll. Caldwell's before breakfast, and returned
as far as " Sans Bruit " in a carriole and dined there. The most unpleasant
82
MES. SIMCOE ENJOYS QUEBEC SCENERY
time of the year is now commencing. The snow melting prevents the use
of carrioles, and there is still too much to use caleches. During the month
of April the people are, from this circumstance, little able to go from
their houses; besides easterly winds, which bring rain, prevail very much.
Tues. April 3rd We walked to Belmont before breakfast, and found
the road dry, but in the middle of the day the snow was so melted by
the excessive heat of the sun that we stayed there until eight o'clock and
then walked home, the snow being then perfectly frozen again.
Wed. 4th Mr. Fisher, of the Engineers, showed me some beautiful
views he took of Windsor Castle for Prince Edward. His oil painting did
not please me.
BY THE RIVER, QUEBEC, 1792.
(From a Drawing by Mrs. Simcoe.) '
NOTE. This is evidently a rapid sketch of part of the river at
Quebec, 1792. The building on the right is the Chateau St. Louis,
and on the left is shown a powder magazine near the King's bastion.
Sun. 8th We walked a mile before breakfast about Cape Diamond.
After church we repaired to the lines with Mr. Talbot, who showed us an
unfrequented terrace where Sir F. Haldimand began to make a walk on
the side of this noble cliff, which is crowned by fortified works. The ter-
race commands the St. Lawrence as far as Cape Tourmente', eleven leagues
below Quebec, rocky and precipitous, and the Isle of Orleans to the east.
The shipping and the Lower Town are immediately below and towards
the Heights of Abraham the blue distant hills of Vermont are seen, and
the spray from the fall of the Chaudi&re River rising in Lake Megantic
and joining the St. Lawrence about seven miles from Quebec. The rocks
and brushwood that adorn the precipitous side of the hill form a fine
foreground to this grand scene, with which we were so delighted that we
came to view it again in the evening, and did not return home till it was
dark, or rather starlight.
NOTE. The commander of Quebec is styled "Commander of the
Fortress of Quebec and of the Town Lines," which means the wall8
which encircle the city. The "lines" referred to in this passage would
be some part of the grounds immediately within the stalls.
83
DIARY OF MBS. SIMCOE
Fri 13th Walked towards Wolfe's Cove and upon Cape Diamond.
Dined with Mrs. Winslow, wife of the Acting Paymaster-General.
NOTE. The Winslows, one of the best known families on the
American Continent, settled as U. E. Loyalists in Eastern Canada.
Joshua Winslow, who is given
in the Quebec Directory of
1791 as residing at 12 .St.
John Street, was Paymaster-
General of the British Forces
in North America. His great-
great-grandfather, John Win-
slow, born at Droitwich,
England, in 1597, came to
America in 1621, settled at
Plymouth, Mass., and was a
merchant and shipowner. He
married in 1624, Mary, daugh-
ter of James Chilton, who
came out in the " May-
flower." Joshua Winslow mar-
ried Anna Green. They had
a daughter Anna who while
at school in Boston wrote
an interesting diary. Joshua
Winslow died in Quebec in
1801. Edward Winslow, a
brother of John Winslow,
was Governor of Plymouth
for some years.
Fri. 20th The Prince dined with us, Gen'l. Clarke, Mrs. Murray and
St. Ours; a very cold evening indeed. As the cold weather and the short
days leave us people cease to be sociable, and no kind
of gaiety is continued but a few dinner parties. I
have been so unaccustomed to pass evenings alone
this winter that I do not like relinquishing balls,
concerts, suppers and cards.
NOTE. Honorable Paul Eoch de St. Ours
(sometimes Eocque) was born in 1747. He was
Colonel commanding of the Assomption Division
of the Militia in Lower Canada. In 1787, lie
was a member of the Legislative Council. His
death took place in 1814.
Sun. 29th We walked twice this day to Cape
Diamond. In the morning we saw a merchant vessel
sail to England, the " Recovery," in which I sent
letters by Mrs. Tosey, the Sussex clergyman's wife,
to you and other friends. Walking on Cape Diamond
after a rainy day, I saw amongst the distant hills to the north a oloud
rise in a conic form in a light sky until it united with black clouds above.
We thought it might be a waterspout. Last week the thermometer fell
84
CASCADE NEAR WOLFE'S COVE, 1792.
(From a Drawing by Mm. Simcoe.)
PAUL ROCH DE
ST. OURS.
ARRIVAL OF CHIEF JUSTICE OSGOODE
30 degrees in three hours and 54 in eleven hours. A beautiful moth
was sent to me. It remained all day in a torpid state, and flew away
at night.
Mr. Fisher, of the Royal Engineers, exchanges duty with Mr. Wolfe, in
order to go to Niagara to take views of the Falls. I saw mosquitoes this
evening while walking on the ramparts. They are like gnats. Last week
1 walked to Powell Place and Woodfield. The woods are beautiful, and we
went near to Sillery, that pretty vale Emily Montague describes; indeed,
her account of Quebec appears to me very near the truth.
A boat going to the Isle of Orleans was overset a few days ago. Four-
teen passengers were drowned. Accidents often happen on this river by
carrying too much sail. When the wind is against the tide it is very
dangerous. The currents are excessively strong.
NOTE. Powell Place was owned by Sir Henry Watson Powell,
who resided there from 1780-95. It was renamed Spencer Wood by
the Honorable Michael Henry Percival, a relative of the Honorable
Spencer Percival, the Chancellor of the Exchequer, who was assas-
sinated in England in 1812. The situation was most picturesque,
about two miles from the city walls, on the south side of the St. Louis
Road. It is now the residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of Quebec.
The land occupied is about one-half of the estate as it was when
known as Powell Place.
The "History of Emily Montague," by Mrs. Frances Brooke
(Frances Moore) 1724-89, published in 1769, was a series of letters
addressed from Sillery by Emily Montague, the heroine, to her
friend, Arabella Fermor, to military admirers, and to some British
noblemen, friends of her father. The work, which is dedicated to
Guy Carleton, afterwards Lord Dorchester, is the earliest novel
written in Canada. Mrs. Brooke was the wife of Rev. John Brooke,
D.D., Rector of Colney, Norfolk, and Chaplain to the garrison at
Quebec in 1764-8. It is said that the "handsome Colonel Rivers" who
won the heart of Emily Montague was none other than Colonel Henry
Caldvvell. In all probability he was a friend of the novelist.
Sat. 2nd June Mr. Osgoode, the Chief Justice
of Upper Canada; Mr. Peter Russell, the Receiver-
General; and Mr. White, the Attorney^General,
arrived from England. Mr. Russell has his sister
with him.
Miss Rolle sent me a doll in the Duchess of
York's Court dress. My clothes for the 4th of June
not being arrived, I made myself a turban like the
doll's.
NOTE. At the early age of fifteen William
Osgoode entered Christ College as a commoner.
He studied law, became M.A. in 1777, and was
called to the bar of Lincoln's Inn. He was
appointed first Chief Justice of Upper Canada in CHIEF J USTICE
1792, his active judicial duties commencing in J OSGOODE.
August of that year. He was a Legislative Coun-
cillor of the Province, appointed to the Council in July, 1792, and
in the following September was appointed Speaker. In consequence
85
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
of his charge to a grand jury that slavery ought not to exist in the
colony of Canada, the Legislature of Upper Canada passed in July,
1793, an Act entitled "An Act to prevent the further introduction
of slaves, and to limit the terms of contracts for service within this
Province." In 1794 Osgoode became Chief Justice of Lower Canada,
retaining the office until 1801, when he resigned and returned to
England. He died in 1824, aged seventy.
The Honorable Peter Russell was in 1792 ap-
pointed Receiver-General of Upper Canada by Gov-
ernor Simcoe. As President of the 'Council he
succeeded the Governor in 1796, retaining the posi-
tion until 1799. In accordance with Simcoe's in-
structions the second Parliament of the Province
met at York on 1st June, 1797, and several acts
were passed during Russell's administration. His
plan was to follow in the footsteps of Governor
Simcoe, with whose policy he was familiar. He
died at his home, Russell Abbey, Toronto, in 1808.
John White was Attorney- General of Upper
HON. PETER Canada, and was killed in a duel, 3rd January,
RUSSELL. 1800.
Mon. June 4th A splendid ball at the Chateau, but the heat was so
great that I was very near fainting after having danced Money Musk and
the Jupon rouge.
Tues. 5th This afternoon we drove to Montmorency, about eight
miles from Quebec, and drank tea there. I walked a little way up the
river, which dashes over a very rocky bed among the woods, which, being
now in leaf, made the accompaniment of the falls much finer than when I
was last there.
8(3
jj
M
CHAPTER VIII.
JOURNEY TO UPPER CANADA.
The pleasant sojourn of seven months at Quebec was "a new
chapter in my life," said the Governor's wife in a letter to an English
friend. The kindness, the hospitality, the respect and the courtesy
which had been paid to them by those of the official circles in the
ancient city gave untold pleasure to the newcomers. The Governor
was popular because he was a man not only of extensive military
experience but also of wide general knowledge, a gifted and inter-
esting conversationist, and, withal affable and courteous to all with
whom he came in contact. His wife made friends rapidly, and as
became the wife of one occupying a distinguished position, she main-
tained a dignity and gentleness of manner that some say "was born
with the Gwillims," while at the same time she had an attractiveness
that was always remembered by the many friends she met.
On the 8th of June, 1792, Governor Simcoe, with his wife and
party, set out towards his post in the Western province. Mrs. Simcoe
often declared that she required a deal of courage to entrust herself
and her children to the Canadian bateaux, which were the only possible
means of transportation.
Fri. 8th June At six this morning we left Quebec, walked through
Fort Louis Gate, and descended the hill to the river, where we embarked
in a large batteau (bateau) with an awning, accompanied by Lts. Grey
and Talbot. Another batteau carried the children, and a third the ser-
vants and baggage. In three hours we reached Pt. aux Trembles (En
Bas), on the north shore of the river, seven leagues above Quebec, landing
a mile below the Maison de Poste. A small tent being pitched, we break-
fasted, and afterwards went to see the church, which is a neat one and
contains a picture of St. Cecilia, given by Gen'l. Murray, which is highly
esteemed. We took an early dinner, of which an eel, caught here, formed
a part, and as we had just finished our repast al fresco, the Bishop of
Caps, who resides in this village, came to wait on Coll. Simcoe. He is a
man more esteemed for his learning than religion; being once accused
of having Voltaire's works in his library, he replied: " Les meilleurs m6de-
cins tiennent les poisons en leur boutique" (The best doctors keep poisons
in their dispensary). He apologized for not inviting us to his house, as
it was repairing.
We waited until near six for the tide, when we embarked, and passed
some beautiful high banks covered with wood. At Jacques Cartier, on
the north shore of the river, eight leagues above Quebec, between Three
Rivers and Quebec, are mills on a river which flows into the St. Lawrence
from between two very high hills much enriched by wood. It is an ex-
ceedingly strong pass and a picturesque scene.
The evening was delightfully calm. My admiration of the setting sun
on the unruffled surface of this wide river was interrupted by meeting
89
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
a boat, which brought English letters forwarded from Montreal, and the
satisfaction of reading some of yours (letters from Mrs. Hunt at Wol-
ford) engaged my attention as long as it was light enough to read.
It was ten o'clock when we arrived at Cap Sante, on the north shore.
The man who kept the Maison de Poste was so ill that we could not be
admitted there, so we walked towards a cottage where the habitants were
going to bed, but with all possible French politesse the woman removed
her furniture and children, and presently accommodated 'us with two
empty rooms, with a thousand compliments and regrets that " des gens
comme nous" (strangers) should 'be so ill lodged. The apartment was in-
different enough, but as we travel with a T>oydet, which is a folding camp
chair as large as a mattress, the " Triton's " cot, blankets, and a mosquito
net tent to hang over the bed, we soon furnished a room comfortable
enough for people whom a long day's voyage had given sufficient inclina-
tion to sleep. The gentlemen slept in a batteau. It was too late to get
our provisions from the boat, and we supped on the bread, eggs and milk
the cottage afforded.
NOTE. Cap Sante is on the west bank of the mouth of the Eiver
Jacques Cartier. It was here that the French encamped and threw
up works after the capitulation of Quebec. John Montressor's map
of 1760 shows the fort on the bank of the river. In his diary he
says that when serving under that 'mad Murray' he disguised him-
self (being then a captain of engineers) as a drummer boy of marines
and went to Jacques Cartier with a flag of truce, by which means he
was able to examine the works and direct operations against them a
few days later on.
Sat. 9th We rose at six this morning, and walked on the hill which
rises abruptly behind this house. It is a fine turf, with large trees scat-
tered over it, and has a very park-like appearance. To the east the view
is finely terminated by the church, which is covered with tin, as is usual
in this country. It is surprising to me that it does not rust. It proves
the habitual dryness of the air. The effects of tin roofs and steeples are
very brilliant. Beyond Cap Sante the tide ceases. We embarked at nine
and passed the rapids of Richelieu, after which the steeple of the church
of Deschambault, 12 leagues above Quebec, embosomed in wood, becomes
a fine spot. Coll. Simcoe wished to examine the ground at Deschambault
with reference to it as a military position. I went on shore there with
him while the gentlemen proceeded to the boat. I waited at the Maison
de Poste (for I was indisposed) while Coll. Simcoe walked to the point,
and in about an hour we set out in a caleche a small carriage, 'buggy, on
two wheels, with a hood, goes very fast, and is very light in weight, used
in the Province of Quebec amongst the habitants and drove nine miles
through a beautiful woody country, over very rough roads, to Grondines,
a village 16 leagues above Quebec, on the north shore, where we dined
and slept at the house of Madame Hamelin, the seigneuresse of this village,
whom we saw in the evening sitting in the churchyard, amid a large
audience of peasants, reading and commenting on some handbills dispersed
by a Quebec merchant (Mr. McCord), a candidate to represent this county
(Hampshire) at the next election.
NOTE. Hampshire was one of the original divisions of the
Province of Quebec in its first Parliament. In the next electoral
changes in 1829, the name Portneuf was applied to the county.
90
EN KOUTE TO UPPER CANADA
John McCord was a leading merchant in Quebec, one of the
pioneers, son of John McCord, a leader of the English party after the
cession of Canada. John McCord, Jr., appears to
have thought of being a candidate for Hampshire
in 1792, but apparently changed his mind, for his
name is not given in the Parliamentary lists. His
brother, Judge Thomas McCord, was, however,
elected in 1810 for Montreal West, and for Bed-
ford in 1817, which then comprised a vast tract.
The McCord family was one of the most prominent
in Quebec.
David Ross McCord, K.C., of Temple Grove,
Montreal, is a great-grandson of John McCord,
Sr., and grandson of Judge Thomas McCord.
John McCord, Jr., of whom Mrs. Simcoe writes, JOHN MCCOBD, JR.
was his great-uncle.
The ruins of the old church and parsonage at Grondines may
still be seen on the beach, about half a mile from the newer church
of 1841.
Sat. 9th The tone and air decide of the reader, the attention of the
audience and the Flemish appearance of their figures would have afforded
an excellent picture. The Canadian women are better educated than the
men, who take care of their horses and attend little to anything else,
leaving the management of their affairs to the women.
I saw here a kind of mespilus, or medlar tree, which bore fruit
almost pear shaped. They called it " Poire sauvage" and a fruit
" superbe." " Magnifique " and " superbe " are words the Canadians apply
on all occasions. Nothing could less call for such an epithet than the
present fruit. A pretty wild plant, somewhat like buckwheat, called
" herbe d la puce," is said to blister the hands and faces of those who touch
it, though it is not equally poisonous to all persona. Here I met with
an ugly insect of the beetle kind, called " frappc d'abord." which fetches
blood wherever it strikes.
Sun. 10th We left Grondines at 8. The current becoming very
strong, the men were obliged to tirer d la cordelle, or drag the boat by
ropes on a narrow beach under high, woody banks. We picked up pieces
of chalk or clay, which drew like crayon, but the strokes were not so easily
effaced. I saw millions of yellow and black butterflies, called New York
swallow-tails, on the sand. We dined in the boat and passed St. Pierre les
Becquets, a village (in Nicolet County) 22 leagues above Quebec, and
its church on a very bold projecting point nearly opposite to Batiscan (in
Champlain County). We disembarked this evening at Cap de la Mag-
delaine, the most dirty, disagreeable receptacle for mosquitoes I ever saw,
the inhabitants even catching wood pigeons in a most disagreeable manner.
I take no sketch of a place I never wish to recollect. Mr. Talbot gave
a shilling to liberate some wood pigeons I must otherwise have seen and
heard fluttering most disagreeably. I was much obliged to him for this
polite attention.
NOTE. Batiscan is in Champlain County, 81 miles above Quebec,
on the north shore of the St. Lawrence, near Three Rivers, which is
95 miles northeast of Montreal.
Mon. llth We rose at four and embarked, and went a league to Trois
Rivieres, in the County of St. Maurice, a town which takes its name from
91
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
three rivers St. Maurice, Richelieu and St. Lawrence which spring
from one source and, after having flowed some miles separately, unite and
fall into the St. Lawrence half a mile below the town. There is a small
convent here, and they work remarkably well on bark. We paid a great
price for a bad breakfast at an inn kept by an Englishman, for we were
not so lucky as to go to the French Maison de Poste, where we should
have fared better and paid less. Three leagues from hence we reached
Point du Lac, in St. Maurice County, at the entrance of Lake St. Pierre
(St. Peter), which is about 15 leagues long. Three leagues farther we
stopped to dine in the boat near Machiche, in a small cove, where the
heat was intense and the mosquitoes numerous. From hence we passed
extremely flat shores and confined scenery. The gentlemen were impatient
of the heat, and perpetually wearying the conductor of the batteau with
questions as to 'how far we were from Cap de Loup, complaining of the
inconvenience of the trajet, meaning journey or voyage. At length he
would say nothing except " Mais pourtant il ne fait pas froid " ( It is
nothing compared to the cold), which, indeed, we were all very sensible
of. Went on shore early this evening at Riviere du Loup. (This village
and river is the same in name as Riviere du Loup, in Kamouraska and
Temiscouata Counties.) The village has a pretty bridge, and lies in a
flat, cultivated country. We were but ill accommodated here, and nothing
amusing occurred but Mr. Talbot's ineffectual efforts to paddle a canoe
across the river. The difficulties he met with in this first attempt, and
the handkerchief tied round his head, a la Canadien, diverted me much.
Mr. (Lieut.) Grey cut his finger, and applied the turpentine from the
cones of the balm of Gilead fir, a remedy for wounds greatly esteemed.
Collins the nurse girl's slow manner, characteristic of the Western States,
diverted us. Being desired to make haste, she replied, " Must I not put
the sugar in the children's breakfast?" in the true American tone.
NOTE. Machiche is a village on the river of the same name in
St. Maurice County, Quebec. The spelling Machiche is the common
abbreviation of Yamachiche, from the Algonquin, meaning a muddy
stream or river.
Tues. 12th We embarked at four, and soon after we left Lake St.
Pierre, stopped at Sorel (on right bank of River Richelieu, at mouth of
Lake St. Peter), and took some refreshment at Mr. Doughty's, a clergy-
man whose wife is from New York, and the house was the cleanest and
the neatest I have seen.
NOTE. The Rev. John Doughty was chaplain in the King's
Royal Regiment in the war of 1775. He was formerly a minister of
the gospel at Schenectady on the south side of the Mohawk River
in the State of New York. In 1781 he went to England; but
returned to Canada and officiated as a missionary at Sorel.
The situation of Sorel is so flat that nothing relieves the prospect but
the masts of a few small ships building here. We dined in the boat, and the
heat was excessive, but the evening calm and so very pleasant as almost to
persuade me it is worth while to cross the Atlantic for the pleasure of
voyaging on this delightful lake-like river, the setting sun reflecting the
deepest shades from the shores and throwing rich tints on the water.
This repose is finely accompanied by the songs of the batteau men, which
accord in time to the regular stroke of the oars and have the best effect
imaginable. No wonder Spenser, Ariosto, etc., dwelt on the delight of
sailing in a boat on lakes, and make it the approach to islands of delight.
After a day of fatigue, where strong currents require peculiar exertion,
they sing incessantly and give a more regular stroke with the oars when
accompanied by the tunes. This practice has been learned from Grand
92
INCIDENTS ON THE JOURNEY
Voyageurs, or Canadians who are hired by the North-West Company to
take canoes to the Grand Portage beyond Lake Superior. Now and then
an Indian halloo breaks the often-repeated notes, and enlivens the sound.
We admired one of their songs, " Trots filles d'un Prince " (Three
Daughters of a Prince), so much that we desired it to be often repeated.
NOTE. Edmund Spencer, a celebrated English poet, 1552-1595).
Ariosto Ludovico, 1474-1533, a celebrated Italian poet, author of
"Orlando Furioso."
Our attention was engaged by hearing firing from the shore. The
batteau men said, "Com we il faut a Mon'sr le Oouverneur" (It is a wel-
come to Monsieur, the Governor), but who paid this respect we did not
find out.
We reached the Maison de Poste at Dautray (Dautre) on north shore,
just out of Lake St. Peter, west, before sunset, pitched the little tent, and
admired rich tints and deep reflections from the opposite shore. We met
with tolerably good rooms here. Mr. Littlehales, Coll. Simcoe's Military
Secretary, overtook us here, and brought with him letters from you (Mrs.
Hunt) which made me very happy. He travelled post from Quebec, where
he arrived in the last vessel.
NOTE. Major E. B. Littlehales, who was Military Secretary to
Governor Simcoe during the period of his residence in Canada, was
an excellent official of the Crown as well as of
Governor Simcoe, in preparing plans and obtain-
ing information respecting the newly settled
country, the affairs of which his chief was called
upon to administer. He was also an author of
some repute, being the writer of the " Journal
of an Exploring Excursion from Niagara to
Detroit," first given to the public in 1834, though
the expedition took place in 1793.
Major Littlehales, who returned to England
on the recall of Governor Simcoe, was shortly
afterwards promoted to the rank of lieutenant-
colonel, and in 1801 became Under-Secretary of
the Military Department in Ireland, which position SIB E B B\KKR
he held until 1820. In 1802 Lieutenant-Colonel
Littlehales was created a Baronet, and by Royal License in 1817
assumed the surname of Baker in lieu of that of Littlehales, on
inheriting the property of Ranston in Dorsetshire, thus being for
the rest of his life Sir Edward Baker Baker. His grandson, Sir
Randolph Littlehales Baker, M.P. for North Dorset and residing
at Blandford, Dorset, England, is the present baronet,
Wed. 13th We set out at four in the morning. In the afternoon we
saw the Blue Mountains of Chambly, a village in Chambly County, on the
Richelieu River, five leagues from Montreal, and Beloeil Mountain, a con-
siderable elevation in the County of Rouville, seven leagues from Mont-
real, both of which we noticed with pleasure, not having before seen any
distant view during our voyage.
We passed Varennes (in Vercheres County), a large village and hand-
some church on the shore, six leagues below Montreal. That of Cap
Sante". twelve leagues above Quebec, was built in imitation of it. At eight
93
DIARY OF MBS. S1MCOE
we reached Pointe aux Trembles (En haut), on the island of Montreal, and
ten leagues from Dautray. Here we went on shore, intending to go by
land the remaining three leagues to Montreal. We found Capt. Stevenson
CHAMBLY, ON THE ST. LAWRENCE, 1792.
(From a Drawing by Mrs. Simcoe.)
just arrived in Mr. Frobis'her's phaeton, sent for me, as a hired caliche
is a wretched conveyance on the excessive rough roads around Montreal.
Notwithstanding the merits of the phaeton and the river, I every moment
VARENNES, ON THE ST. LAWRENCE, 1792.
(From a Draicing by Mrs. Simcoe.)
expected to have been thrown out by the violent jerks in passing over the
ruts in this bad road.
At eleven o'clock we arrived at Montreal, and after a little delay,
occasioned by the lateness of the hour, we got into Government House,
and I was delighted with the size and loftiness of
the rooms, which are so much better than any I have
been in at Quebec. On the road we passed a group
of Indians sitting around a fire near the river, which in
this dark night afforded a good subject for a picture.
NOTE. Joseph Frobisher was one of those
who in the winter of 1783-4, with Simon Mc-
Tavish, formed what has been known in Canadian
history as the "North- West Company." He was
the first to proceed to the great unknown West,
and went as far as the Churchill River. Up to
1774, all the Indians of that vast region were
accustomed to carry their furs to the Hudson's
Bay. Mr. Frobisher meeting several bands of In-
dians on the way thither induced them to trade
with him. He remained two years in the country, enduring great
hardships, but established a firm trade with the red men. He re-
turned in 1776, and during these two years, so plentiful were the
94
JOSEPH FROBISHEB.
CHATEAU DE RAMEZAY
furs and on such advantageous terms were they bought that when
he arrived in Montreal he had secured what at that time was con-
sidered a competency. His brother Benjamin, who died in 1787,
travelled even further west and was the first white man who ever
reached "Isle a la Croix."
In 1798, Joseph retired from commercial life. He had come from
England, and with James McGill was a vestryman of what was then
called the "Protestant Congregation of Montreal." This afterwards
became Christ Church, erected in Notre Dame Street, and burned
down. It is now the English Cathedral on St. Catherine Street. He
and John Richardson represented the East Ward of Montreal in the
first Parliament of the Province of Lower Canada in 1792-6. His
son represented St. Laurent District in 1804.
GOVEENMENT HOUSE CHATEAU DE RAMEZAY, MONTREAL.
(From "Hochelatja Depicta")
Sun. 17th The joy I felt in finding myself in spacious apartments was
checked the next day by finding the heat more insufferable than I had ever
felt. The thermometer continued at 96 for two days, and the heat was
not ill-described by a sentinel who exclaimed, " There is but a sheet of
brown paper between this place and hell." In the town are abundance of
merchants' storehouses, the doors and windows of which are iron, and
many of the houses, as well as churches, are covered with tin. By these
circumstances, I believe, the heat is increased. The Government House is
built on arches, under which are very large offices, which might be made
very comfortable summer apartments.
NOTE. The Government House referred to was the building now
known as the Chateau de Ramezay. The earliest view of the Gov-
ernment House, Montreal, is found in "Hochelaga Depicta," pub-
lished in 1839, but it is not very accurate. The elaborate railing
and coping of the wall shown do not date back so far. .
It was the residence of Claude de Ramezay, Governor of Montreal,
from its erection in 1705 until his death in 1724, and although
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Madame de Ramezay made several attempts to get the Government to
purchase it for a Governor's residence, she never succeeded. So in
1745 the heirs sold it to "La Compagnie des Indes," which company
made it the headquarters of the fur trade in Canada, and so it con-
tinued until the conquest. The company's further trade in 'Canada
having been interdicted, it sold "India House" to William Grant, who
in 1774 leased it, and four years later sold it to the Government.
Governor Haldimand often resided in it, and no doubt others too,
but there is not much documentary history relating to it from its
purchase in 1778 until about 1820, when sundry items began to
appear in the estimates for the repairs and the upkeep of the Govern-
ment House at Montreal. Later Mrs. Monk, widow of a petty officer
MONKLANDS, A FORMER GOVERNMENT HOUSE, MONTREAL.
(From " Montreal After 250 Yearn.")
in one of the regiments of the line who had been keeper of stores at St.
Johns, was appointed housekeeper to the Government House. She
was the mother of the celebrated Maria Monk.
On the complaint of Lord Aylmer, Governor-General, in 1831,
that the Government House was in bad repair, and so destitute of
furniture that it necessitated great expense in moving his furniture
to and from Montreal every time he visited the place, a bill was passed
authorizing the expenditure of 300 to 400 in furnishing the Gov-
ernment House and a large sum to put it in repair. A commission
was appointed to supervise this expenditure and plans and specifica-
tions were made for elaborate repairs which included the addition of
another storey, but the amount required so exceeded the vote that
little was done and the amount appeared as an unexpended balance
on the estimates for several years afterwards.
96
THE TOWN OF MONTREAL
In 1837, the house was made the headquarters of the special
council which was appointed during the rebellion and sat there until
1841. The Governor, then of necessity a regular resident in the
city, occupied a rented house on the opposite corner. In 1845, when
the seat of government of the united provinces was moved from
Kingston to Montreal, the building was set apart for departmental
offices and Monklands acquired for the Government House. It was
then that some of the changes that characterize the Chateau de
Ramezay of to-day were made. In 1894 the Chateau was sold by the
Provincial Government and purchased by the Corporation of the City
of Montreal, and in 1895 the Numismatic and Antiquarian Society
obtained the building for the purpose of founding an Historical
Portrait Gallery and Museum.
Monklands was built by the Monk family and was situated at
Cote St. Antoine on the side of the mountain. The house is now
called the Ville Marie Convent and is the boarding school of the
Nuns of the Congregation. On each side the nuns have had large
additions made but the house still remains just as it was when
Government House. In the fire which destroyed the Convent some
years ago, the original building escaped.
Mon. 18th I was so oppressed by the heat that it diminished the
pleasure of driving on the mountain of Montreal. A mile from the town
it rises in the midst of a plain, like the Wrekin, one of the highest points
in Shropshire. The view from it is remarkably fine, commanding a vast
extent of river diversified by islands. The towns of Longueuil, on the
right bank of the river, and L'Assomption, etc., are opposite, and the
distance terminated by the Blue Hills of Chambly.
The town of Montreal is large, and the spires of the churches, covered
with tin, give a brilliancy to the scene and look like mosques. The country
around is much cultivated, and orchards cover nearly all the top of the
mountain. Capt. Stevenson carried us two miles beyond the fine prospect
towards La Chine (Lachine), which is three leagues above Montreal, I
think merely to show how bad the road was, and we returned about nine
o'clock to Mr. Probisher's villa on the side of the mountain, and drank
tea there.
In going from hence to Montreal we saw the air filled with fire flies,
which, as the night was dark, appeared beautiful, like falling stars. I
dined at Mr. Frobisher's house in the town, where the chairs were the
same as I have seen sold in London for four guineas each.
NOTE. Mr. Frobisher's villa, or country house, which Mrs. Simcoe
speaks of as being on the side of the mountain, was named Beaver
Hall and was situated on the ridge of the Beaver Hall Hill, near
the present position of Belmont Street, Montreal. It was on the
line of the latter street and across the line of the present street called
after it, Beaver Hall, which latter was on the site of Frobisher's
avenue leading to the house. It blocked the present Beaver Hall
(street).
Tues. 19th I dined with La Baronne de Longueuil at a pretty house
she and Mr. Grant have built on the north shore of her island of St.
Helen's, opposite the east end of Montreal. Though the distance is so
short, the current is so strong that the passage is rather alarming. The
island is four miles in circumference, and the views from many points
7 97
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
very pretty. Montreal and Longueuil are good objects to view from it.
La Baronne has the only hothouse I have seen in Canada. Ice houses are
very general here, but seldom used for the purpose of furnishing ice for
a dessert. They use the ice to cool liquors and butter,
and the ice houses are used for larders to keep meat.
NOTE. The third Baron de Longueuil, Charles
Jacques Le Moyne, died while on active military
service in 1755. His infant daughter, Marie
Charles Joseph, born some months later, inherited
the title as fourth Baroness. Her mother (Marie
Fleury d'Eschambault, of a noble French family),
known as the Dowager Baroness, married a second
time, in 1770, Honorable William Grant, Receiver-
General, while the daughter became the wife in
DOWAGER BARONESS 1781 of Captain David Alexander Grant, nephew
DE LONGUEUIT.. O f the Receiver-General.
Shortly after her marriage with Honorable
William Grant the Dowager Baroness built a resi-
dence on the picturesque family property on St.
Helen's Island. It was here Mrs. Simcoe was
entertained during her first visit to Montreal, and
where in all probability she met the younger
people.
It is stated that the fourth Baroness in her
own right, a much loved person in the family
and respected in Montreal society of her day, did
not assume rank until the death of her mother
in 1818. In her marriage contract, however, she HON. WM. GRANT.
is styled "Mademoiselle Marie Charles Joseph
Lemoine de Longueuil, Baroness de Longueuil
et Dame de Beloeil, fille majeure usante et jouis-
sante de ses droits," which shows clearly that she
assumed title on attaining her majority. The
contract further states that she was sole inheritor
of the name, arms and estate of the third Baron.
There is no portrait of the fourth Baroness
in existence, except the one as an old lady, here
given, while her mother's picture is from an oil
painting made comparatively early in life.
Mrs. M. Arklay Fergusson of Ethiebeaton,
Scotland, Mrs. Fairclough, wife of Prof. Rushton
Fairclough, Stanford University, Cal., and Mrs.
J. Maule Machar, Kingston, Ont., are, on their
mother's side, great-great-granddaughters of the
third Baron de Longueuil, while Madame F. Falret de Tuite, Reginald,
Baron de Longueuil, John Grant de Longueuil and Mademoiselles
de Longueuil, Pau, France, bear the same relation through their
98
FOURTH BARONESS
DE LONGUEUIL.
THROUGH THE EAPIDS IN BATEAUX
father. Mrs. Machar's husband was the only son of the late Rev.
Dr. Machar, at one time principal of Queen's University, Kingston,
and only brother of Agnes Maule Machar, the well-known Canadian
authoress. The nephew of the present Baron is heir to the title
and property.
Fri. 22nd We went from Montreal to La Chine (Lachine), ten miles
of very rough road, in Mr. Frobisher's carriage. The river from Montreal
to La Chine is so shallow and full of rocks, and currents so strong that
the boats always go up unloaded, the baggage being sent in waggons.
Sir John Johnson, the agent for Indian Affairs, has a neat-looking house
in this village.
We slept at a very indifferent house, to which, as it bore the name of
an inn, we did not bring our beds or provisions, and were the worse off as
to lodging. I disliked the dirty appearance of the bed, and slept on a
blanket upon the table. Opposite this place and on the other side of the
river is Caughnawaga, a village of Indians who are Catholics (in Laprairie
County, on south shore of the St. Lawrence). They have a neat church
there.
Sat. 23rd We embarked at six. Soon afterwards left Pointe Claire
and Isle Perrot (15 miles from Montreal, an island in the River St.
Lawrence, S.W. of the island of Montreal, between the Lake of the Two
Mountains and Lake St. Louis) to the north, and saw the junction of the
Ottawa or Grand River, which divided Upper and Lower Canada with
the St. Lawrence, the former pouring its dirty coloured water into the
transparent stream of the St. Lawrence at the St. Anne's rapids, above
the island of Montreal.
NOTE. Besides the Ottawa or Grand River here mentioned, there
is another Grand River (known also as the Ouse) in Ontario, which
empties into Lake Erie.
We soon arrived at the Cascades, the commencement of the rapids
above La Chine. The term " rapid " is meant to describe shallow water,
strong currents and a rocky bottom, which causes the whole surface of
the water to appear foaming and white, like breakers at sea. The batteau
men kept as close to shore as possible, and by dint of exertion and labour
they pole and tow the boat up against the current. We went on shore at
the Cascades, and walked a mile through a wood and saw the boats pass
some tremendous rapids near this place, where Gen'l. Amherst lost eighty
men during the last war by coming down without conductors in the boats.
Saw a swordfish in a little stream near the mill. After our re-embarking
we came to a very strong current at Point au Diable (a prominent head-
land four miles west of the Cedars village).
The gentlemen walked to lighten the boat. I was tired by the heat,
and laying my head on a trunk in the boat, I slept till the rapid was past.
Two leagues from hence we met with one more formidable, so that the
baggage in the boats was moved into waggons, and we went in a caleche
as far as the Cedars, a village ten leagues above Montreal, where there is
a tolerable inn, at which we slept. M. de Longueuil has a seigneurie
near this place. These properties, estates or grants of land were given to
the old French families who had settled in the Province of Quebec, by
Louis XIV. Seigneur was the title for the Lord of the Manor.
Sun. 24th Seven miles from Les Cedres is Coteau du Lac (or St.
Ignace, a village in Soulanges County, 37 miles south-west of Montreal),
where we passed through locks. A few troops are stationed in a house
here. Opposite to it is an island called Prison Island. It was so called
from some rebels having been confined on it during the last war, some of
whom escaped by swimming across the rapids by which it is surrounded.
99
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
NOTE. This island is at the mouth of Lake St. Francis, an
expansion of the St. Lawrence, midway between the west part of
Grand Isle and the estuary of the River de L'Isle.
A few miles beyond this entered Lake St. Francis, and saw a part
of the blue ridge of the endless mountains. Four leagues from Coteau de
Lac is Pointe au Bodet, the centre of Lake St. Francis and the commence-
ment of Upper Canada.
NOTE. Pointe au Bodet is on the north shore of Lake St. Francis,
in the Seigneury of Monsieur de Longueuil, and a little east of the
cove in which is the boundary line between the Provinces of Quebec
and Ontario.
We arrived here about sunset, and at a small inn on the Point found
the principal inhabitants of the Township of Glengarry (Highlanders in
their national dress). They came to meet the Governor, who landed to
speak to them. They preceded us in their boat, a piper with them, towards
Glengarry House, Mr. McDonell's, where the gentlemen went, but the
wooden awning of our boat being blown off by a violent and sudden squall
arising, we were glad to make towards the shore as fast as possible at
Pointe Mouille on Lake Francis, west of Pointe au Bodet, and thought our-
selves lucky that the boat had not been overset. We met with a miserable,
wretched, dirty room at a Highlander's, the only house within some miles.
NOTE. Colonel John Macdonell was a captain in Butler's Rangers
(his father having first settled in America at the breaking out of the
Revolutionary War). In 1792 he was elected member for Glengarry
and was afterwards Speaker of the first House of Assembly of Upper
Canada. He was lieutenant-colonel commanding the 2nd Royal
Canadian Volunteers, recruited in 17% and disbanded after the
Peace of Amiens. He married Helen, daughter of Henry Yates, at
one time Governor of the State of New York. Colonel Macdonell
built one of the first stone houses in Ontario at a point on the St.
Lawrence below Cornwall and west of Pointe au Bodet. The house was
burned down in 1813 but the ruins still remain and the point is
known as Glengarry Point or Stonehouse Point.
Colonel John Macdonell of Glengarry has been frequently confused
with Colonel John Macdonell who was killed at Queenston Heights
in 1812. The latter, however, was a nephew of the first Speaker, and
J. A. Macdonell, K.C., of Alexandria, Ont., is a great-grandnephew
of Colonel John Macdonell, the First Speaker, and a grandnephew
of Colonel John Macdonell, the Attorney-General who was also A.D.C.
to General Brock. He was killed with that officer at Queenston,
and buried under the monument erected on the Heights. A. McLean
Macdonell, K.C., Toronto, is also a great-grandnephew of the first
Speaker of the Legislature of this Province, while A. Claude Mac-
donell, K.C., M.P., is a near kinsman.
Mon. 25th We breakfasted with Mr. McDonell, four leagues from
Pointe Mouille; his new house (Glengarry) he has not finished, and
resides in that which he first erected on his ground. A Catholic priest,
his cousin, was there, who has lived five years among the Iroquois Indians
at St. Regis (near Cornwall). They have a church, and he performs
100
WITH THE INDIANS AT ST. EEGIS
divine service in the Iroquois, of which he is a perfect master, and he
says their attention to the church service is very great," and the women
sing psalms remarkably well. After breakfast we proceeded a league to
Coll. Gray's, from whence the Governor went to the Isle of St. Regis, to
visit the Indians at their village, where they received him with dancing
in a fierce style, as if they wished to inspire the spectators with terror and
respect for their ferocious appearance. We slept at Coll. Gray's, at Gray's
Creek, four miles below Cornwall.
NOTE. The Catholic priest to whom Mrs. Simcoe refers was the
Rev. Roderick Macdonell, well known as "Mr. Roderick," a cousin
of Colonel John Macdonell. He was educated at the Scots College,
Valladolid, and was first priest in Glengarry, being stationed at
St. Regis on the south shore of the St. Lawrence, a short distance
below Cornwall. This was always an Indian settlement.
James Gray, known as Colonel Gray, was born in Scotland and
served in the British Army for 26 years. In 1763 he was captain
in the 42nd or Black Watch Regiment, and was afterwards major
of the 1st Battalion of the King's Royal Regiment of New York.
He settled at what is known as Gray's Creek, near Cornwall. He
died on llth May, 1796. Colonel Gray's son, Robert Isaac Dey Gray,
was the first Solicitor-General for Tipper Canada. His name was
second on the list of charter members of the Law Society of Upper
Canada, 1797. In 1804, he was lost in the "Speedy" on Lake
Ontario on his way to Presqu' Isle, where an Indian was to be tried
for murder.
Tues. 26th Capt. Munro came here and brought a horse of Mr. Dun-
can's for me to ride. As it would be very tedious to go up the Long Sault
in the boat, we propose riding beyond that and another rapid called
Galettes. We set off about ten o'clock. On our way we passed through
Cornwall (22 leagues south-west of Montreal), a settlement four miles
from Coll. Gray's. There are about fifteen houses
and some neat gardens in them; and rode eleven
miles to Mr. Macdonell's at the Long Sault, his farm
being very near that Grand Rapid, whidh rapid con-
tinues a mile; the whole of the river foaming like
white breakers, and the banks covered with thick
woods, is a very fine sight.
NOTE. Captain Munro was the Honorable
John Munro of Matilda, a member of the first
Legislative Council. Born in Scotland in 1731,
he came to America in the 48th Regiment in 1756.
As a magistrate he had come into fierce opposition
before the Revolutionary War with Seth Warner
and Ethan Allan in northern New York. He was
captain in the King's Royal Regiment of New HON. JOHN MI:NKO.
York and lost in consequence of the Rebellion a
large area of land near Fort Bennington, N. Y. In the Canada
Archives, 1891, will be found a report by him (1784) on the lands
of New Brunswick. By one daughter who married Colonel Eustache
de Lotbiniere he was the ancestor of Sir Henry Joly and the Har-
woods of Montreal ; Major W. F. W. Carstairs of Strathcona, and
103
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
J. S. Carstairs of Toronto, are descendants' of another member of
his numerous family.
The Long Sault Rapids are in the St. Lawrence River, between
Barnhart and Long Sault Island, twelve miles above Cornwall. They
are about nine miles long.
Mrs. Macdonell sang Erse songs very pleasingly, and her children and
servants speak no language but Erse, the language of the descendants of
the Gaels or Celts in the Highlands of Scotland; Gaelic, belonging to Erse
(Irish). I wish'd they had not thought it necessary respect to dine very
late. There are wolves and bears in this part of the country. They some-
times carry off sheep, calves or pigs, but do not attack men.
Mr. Duncan's (Oapt. Richard Duncan, late of 55th Regt.) horse
carried me very well. It is certainly necessary to have a horse of the
country to pass the bridges we everywhere met with, whether across the
creeks (very small rivers) or swamps. The bridges are composed of
trunks of trees unhewn, of unequal sizes, and laid loosely across pieces
of timber placed lengthways. Rotten trees sometimes give way and a^
horse's leg slips through, and is in danger of being broken. The horse 1*
am now riding had once a fall through an old bridge. He now goes very
carefully. Coll. Gray tells me that the juice of horehound and plantain, a
tropical plant yielding fruit extensively serviceable for food, cures the
bite of a rattlesnake. A negro in Carolina obtained his freedom in the
last war for the discovery. We had black bass for dinner. Great num-
bers are caught near the rapids. They are extremely good, nearly as
large as carp, as firm as a dory and of very good taste, but we dined too
late to be pleasant. I suppose it was meant for respect.
NOTE. Honourable Richard Duncan, whose memory still survives
in Dundas County as "Judge Duncan," and whose daughter's name
is perpetuated in Mariatown, now really an outlying part of Morris-
burg, came to America in 1755. He became a captain in Sir John
Johnson's corps, and married a sister of Captain (afterwards Colonel)
Thomas and Captain William Fraser. He was a member of the first
Legislative Council.
When Mrs. Simcoe was on her way west to Niagara Mr. Duncan
presented her with a horse named "Jack" which was taken to Navy
Hall and used during her residence there.
Wed. 27th We rode ten miles to a tolerable inn, where a dinner was
prepared, but we were engaged to dine and sleep at Capt. John Munro's,
who had served in the Revolutionary War, twelve miles beyond this place.
The first eight we went in the boat, and the remaining four we rode.
An Irish Captain gave us a basket of wild strawberries, which were
as large and as well flavoured as the best scarlet strawberries in gardens
in England. We passed Capt. Duncan's house a mile before we came to
the Rapid Plat, close to which is Capt. Munro's. His wife is a Dutch
woman, and the house was excessively neat and clean, and one of his
daughters very handsome. We went to see Mr. Munro's sawmill, where
a tree was cut into 16 planks an inch thick in an hour.
NOTE. In the list of Justices of the Peace appointed June 10th,
1793, are found the names of William and John Fraser, Richard
Duncan, John Munro and James Gray.
The cutting of a log into sixteen planks twelve feet long and an
inch thick, would in a saw mill to-day take three minutes.
104
CANADIAN WHEAT IN 1792
Thurs. 28th We set out on horseback this morning; took some re-
freshments at Mr. T. Frasier's, six miles from the Long Sault, and then
rode five miles to Mr. W. Frasier's, where we dined. His house is just
beyond Les Galettes (Galoos or Gallops, off Pointe Gallop), the last rapid
on this side of Lake Ontario.
NOTE. Colonel Thomas Eraser, born in Scotland, was a son-in-
law of Hon. John Munro. Before enlisting in McAlpine's Corps,
in which he served as lieutenant, his record is given as "a farmer
of property in the Province of New York, lost by the Rebellion." He
served during the Eevolutionary War, at the close of which he
received a grant of land in Grenville. In 1796 he was chosen as a
non-resident member for Dundas. Two of the leading military officers
of Dundas, John Munro and Richard Duncan, being out of reach,
the electors determined to select a representative military officer
residing outside of their townships, and so Thomas Fraser was chosen.
Captain William Fraser, also a Loyalist, was a brother of Colonel
Thomas Fraser.
Thurs. 28th I observed on my way hither that the wheat appeared
finer than any I have seen in England, and totally free from weeds. Mr.
Frasier mentioned an instance of the fertility of the soil. One of his
fields having produced a great quantity of wheat, and that what fell out
in reaping had the next year produced a very fine crop, without the field
having been plowed or sown. There are many Dutch and German
farmers about here, whose houses and grounds have a neater and better
appearance than those of any other people. This afternoon we proceeded
in the boat to Monsr. Lorimer's, an agent for Indian Affairs, where we
had good venison but indifferent lodging. Coll. Simcoe stopped on the way
to look at Isle Royale.
NOTE. Chevalier Lorimer was an interpreter of the Indian
Department in 1797.
Isle Royale is between Gallop Island and River de la Yielle
Galette, near Point Patterson.
Fri. 29th We embarked early and met the 26th Regt. in a brigade of
boats. We stopped to speak to Capt. Talbot, who is in Prince Edward's
family. He had been to see the Falls of Niagara, and was returning with
the 26th Regt.
NOTE. Captain Talbot was one of Prince Edward's suite, when
in Canada. He is previously mentioned by Mrs. Simcoe when staying
in Quebec, as Prince Edward was then residing there, at Montmor-
ency House, near the Falls. In August, 1790, the 26th proceeded
to Niagara and in June, 1792, returned to St. John's. Captain Talbot
was not an officer of the 26th, nor was he related to Mr. Talbot,
private secretary of Colonel Simcoe. In the Quebec Directory of
1791, there appears "Captain Talbot, H.R.H's suite 4 Ann St."
Fri. 29th We passed to-day some rocks beautifully variegated with
yellow and grey tints. 1 believe clay was among it. We saw a number
of fine hemlock spruce trees. They are an exceedingly handsome tree,
like yew, but of a lighter foliage, though as dark a colour, and grow to a
more immense height than the English people can suppose probable. We
came to so miserable a house where we were to lodge to-night, within
a league of Grenadier Island, that we preferred pitching a tent for our-
105
D1AKY OF MRS. SIMCOE
selves, letting the children sleep in the boat, and left the house for the
gentlemen. While the tent was pitching I fished and caught a small
perch. Many people carry trolling lines, or lines which run out of a
small fishing wheel or pulley lying out of the stern in their boat, and
catch abundance of black bass and other fish all the way up the St.
Lawrence. Capillaire or maidenhair fern and its species grows in great
perfection throughout this country. Much surprised to find the blankets
so wet in a tent, although the weather had been dry.
NOTE. Grenadier Island, one of the Thousand Islands, is four-
teen miles above Brockville, and is about five miles long.
Sat. 30th After passing Grenadier Island we came to the Thousand
islands. The different sizes and shapes of these innumerable isles have a
pretty appearance. Some of them are many miles in extent, many of
them only large enough to contain four or five trees, pine or oak, growing
on a grey rock, which looks very pretty, variegated by the different mosses
with which the crevices are filled.
We passed the river Gananowui (Gananoque), and half a mile beyond
it came to Carey's house, which was so dirty a house that we again pitched
the tent, which, notwithstanding it rained incessantly the whole evening
and the greatest part of the night, kept us quite dry, and I slept vastly
well. I was surprised to find how wet the bed clothes were in the tent
when I rose, and yet I caught no cold, though these nights were the first in
which I slept in a tent. In spite of the rain Coll. Simcoe went to the mill
on the Gananowui River near its mouth, where a harbour might be made
for shipping. This river has communication a great way back with the
river Rideau, and by some lakes to the Ottawa River. These and other
advantages make this one of the most eligible situations for the establish-
ment of a town, but Sir John Johnson obtained a grant of the land here-
about, which prevents the probability of any such improvements being
made by Government.
XOTE. Judge McDonald, of Brockville, informs me that ac-
cording to a statement said to have been made in 1854 by one Mrs.
Charlotte Jameson, then the oldest inhabitant of Gananoque, Joel
Stone was the first white person who ever resided on the peninsula
on the west side of the
Gananoque River. He was
landed from a French
bateau and left to his
own resources. Fortun-
ately a resident on a
nearby island espied the
handkerchief with which
Stone was signalling for
help and sent two Indians
to rescue him. They
took him over to the is-
land where a Frenchman
CAREY'S HOUSE, GANANOQUE.
(From a drawing by Mrs. Simcoe.)
named Carey, an uncle of
Mr. Jameson, lived alone in a hut. Eventually Mr. Stone and Carey
removed to the mainland, and the latter kept a house of public enter-
tainment. The place was only accessible by open boat, while no bread
could be obtained except hard biscuits. For Mr. Stone and for
106
J i
WITHIN SIGHT OF KINGSTON
travellers, they kept a kind called King's biscuit, while for the others
they provided navy biscuit. They kept two cows and exchanged the
milk with the bateau men for biscuit, and exchanged the latter again
with the Indians for fish, venison, game and wild fruit. Carey
had been formerly a waiter and knew how to cook and wait upon
gentlemen, so that he and Stone were tolerably comfortable. One
day when they were all absent, the building and Mr. Stone's effects
were burned, and this was the means of breaking up their family
arrangement, as Carey took a farm two miles above Gananoque at
Jameson's or Sheriff's Point, and lived there with his sister, Mrs.
Sheriff, and a little girl, afterwards Mrs. Jameson. The picture
shown is of Carey's house at Gananoque.
VIEW NEAR GANANOQUE, 1792.
(From a Drawing by Mrs. Simcoe.)
Sun. July 1st We rose very early this morning in order to take a
view of the mill at Gananowui before we proceeded on our way to Kings-
ton. The scenery about the mill was so pretty that I was well repaid for
the trouble of going. Then we returned to our large boat and proceeded.
After passing Grande Island and Isle Cauchois, we drew near to Kingston,
which we were aware of before we saw the houses, as we discerned the
white waves of Lake Ontario beyond, looking like a sea, for the wind
blew extremely fresh.
NOTE. Wolfe Island, three miles from Kingston, was called by
the French Grande Island. General Simcoe in his proclamation,
1792, directed it to be called Wolfe Island. Howe Island, nine miles
from Kingston, was called by the French Isle Cauchois, and was
named by General Simcoe or his advisers, Howe Island, after Lord
Howe.
109
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Kingston is six leagues from Gananowui, and is a small town of
about fifty wooden houses and merchants' storehouses. Only one house
is built of stone. It belongs to a merchant. There is a small garrison
here and a harbour of ships. They fired a salute on our arrival, and we
went to the house appointed for the commanding officer, at some distance
from the barracks. It is small but very airy, and so much cooler than
the great house in Montreal that I was very well satisfied with the change.
The Queen's Rangers are encamped a quarter of a mile beyond our house,
and the bell tents have a pretty appearance. The situation of this place is
entirely flat, and incapable of being rendered defensible. Therefore, were
its situation more central, it would still be unfit for the seat of govern-
ment.
110
CHAPTEK IX.
SIMCOE TAKES OATH OF OFFICE.
Kingston in 1792 was the most important spot on the map of
Canada, west of Montreal. It was not only the military but the
commercial centre of the new province and occupied that position
for many years. The Legislature of the Province of Canada after
the Union Act of 1841 held three sessions there from 14th June,
1841, until 5th March, 1844, when the seat of government was re-
moved and the settlements west on the lake secured in natural course
the trade that from humble beginnings has to-day a volume ever
increasing with the great tide of population.
Kingston is situated at the head of the St. Lawrence at the outlet
of Lake Ontario. The harbor is an excellent one, and ships of any
size can be accommodated in perfect safety. In 1672 the place was
known as Cataraqui, and visited by De Courcelles, the Governor of
New France. He was succeeded by Count Frontenac and the fort
was built by him and named in his honor. This fort was held by
the French until 1758, when it fell into the hands of the British
under Colonel Bradstreet.
In 1783 a number of Loyalist emigrants under Captain Michael
Grass settled in what is now the Township of Kingston. The sur-
veys were made by Deputy Surveyor John Collins. The town plot
was laid out in 1783. The first picture of Cataraqui showing what
was left of Fort Frontenac, was made in 1783. It was styled "a
southwest view of Cataraqui drawn by James Peachey, Ensign 60th
Regiment. Takan by Louis Kotte."
About 1788 Kingston was selected by the British Government as
a military and naval station the principal one on Lake Ontario.
Surveyor Collins in his report to Lord Dorchester did not favor the
selection of Kingston as the best situation for vessels, "as it lies
open to the lake and has not very good anchorage near the entrance,
so that vessels are obliged to run a good way up for shelter from the
most frequent winds." Collins, therefore, proposed Carleton Island,
as it "afforded the best shelter." Lord Dorchester thought other-
wise, and Haldimand Cove between Point Frederick and Point
Henry, opposite Kingston, was selected as the site for the dockyard
and storehouses.
In 1792, according to Mrs. Simcoe, the town contained about
fifty houses. In 1795, the Duke de la Rochefoucauld-Liancourt vis-
ited Kingston and wrote that it had "about 129 or 130 houses."
Mrs. Simcoe made three pictures of the town, dated 1792, 1794
and 1796. The first is a sketch from the water-front, evidently made
from a distance. The view in 1794 is al?o from the water-front, but
shows distinctly the principal houses, including the steeple and belfry
111
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
of the first church, known from 1820 as St. George's, while her latest
picture was taken from a point between Fort Frederick and Main
Street, Kingston, looking toward the northwest.
Mon. 2nd We went across the bay this morning to see the shipyard.
There are two gunboats lately built on a very bad construction. Coll.
Simcoe calls them the " Bear " and the " Buffalo," as they are so unscien-
tifically built, and intends they shall aid in carrying provisions to Niagara.
The present establishment of vessels on this lake consists of the " Onon-
daga " and " Mississaga," named after the Indian tribes, top-sailed
schooners of about 80 tons, and the "Caldwell," named after Coll. Cald-
well, which is a sloop. They transport all the troops and provisions from
hence for the garrison of Niagara, Forts Erie and Detroit. They land
them at Niagara, from whence those for the higher ports are forwarded
nine miles across a portage by land to Fort Chippawa, three miles above
the Falls of Niagara, from whence they are embarked in boats and
KEY TO ILLUSTRATION ON OPPOSITE PAGE.
No. 1 represents a small house, but of the owner or occupant nothing
is known. It is near the site of the old Recollet Church, which appears to
have been removed or destroyed.
No. 2 represents the Commandant's house, which was on the line of
Queen Street not far from Bagot Street.
No. 3 represents the barracks built by Count Frontenac inside the fort,
the walls of which are designated by No. 4. The barracks appear to have
been on the north-west side of the fort. The wall of the fort in the original
picture is partly dark shaded and partly light. The light part represents
the south-west side of the wall, the dark the south-east side.
No. 5 is a round tower built within the bastion at the corner of the
fort. This was the south bastion. The tower was built of strong rubble
masonry, and continued in existence until 1832, when it was razed to the
ground. The site of the tower, indicated by the circular stone work, is
distinctly visible to-day in the barrack square close to the ball alley.
No. 6 is a three-cornered building, which was built of stone in front
of, and a protection to, the entrance to the fort, which was on the north-
east side, facing Barriefield. One angle pointed towards Barriefield, and
the building was constructed in this shape in order to divert the fire of
guns which might be directed against the gate.
No. 7 represents a storehouse with a wharf in front of it, which
formerly belonged to Mr. Forsythe.
No. 8, further east, represents the storehouse owned by the Honorable
Richard Cartwright, with a wharf in front of it. The adjoining building
also probably belonged to him. Beyond this storehouse the land runs to
a point and then sweeps into the left, forming a bay, which has now
been nearly all filled up, on which are the Montreal Transportation Com-
pany's shipyard, Anglin's mill and other works. The other houses are
probably engineers' or officers' quarters, or houses occupied at the time
by inhabitants.
NOTE. This drawing or sketch was taken twenty-five years after
the bombardment of the fort by Bradstreet (1758), and the walls
bear traces in the picture of the bombardment. Bradstreet's batteries
were placed one to the west of the house marked "I," another on the
high ground behind the house marked "2," No. 1 being about the
site of the present market-place, and the other on the high ground,
on Queen Street, near the corner of Bagot Street.
It is claimed by some old inhabitants of Kingston that Forsythe's
wharf was at the foot of Brock Street where Folger's Wharf now is.
112
GOVERNOR TAKES OATHS OF OFFICE
carried 18 miles to Fort Erie, from whence vessels take them to Detroit,
at the extremity of Lake Erie, which is about 250 miles in length.
Coll. Simcoe went on board the " Onondaga," and says we shall find
tolerable accommodation in her when we go to Niagara, though he is much
disposed to row round Lake Ontario in a boat, but everybody about us
opposes the scheme as tedious and dangerous. Probably those who are of
the party do not like the trouble of such a voyage, and I suppose Coll.
Simcoe will go at last in a vessel rather than oppose these Sybarites of
Italy, devoted to luxury and pleasure.
A DISTANT VIEW OF KINGSTON IN 1792.
(From a Dratving by Mrs. Simcoe.)
I gathered a very sweet and pretty white flower, the petals of the
texture of orange flowers, five petals, ten chives, tipped with orange colour,
the style pink, the leaves a light green, growing from the root, eight or
ten flowers on short foot stalks on a long stalk, seed vessel round and
small. Some ladies came to see me in the evening. I walked.
Tues. 3rd There are Mississaga Indians here. They are an unwar-
like, idle, drunken, dirty tribe. I observe how extremes meet. These
uncivilized people saunter up and down the town all day with the ap-
parent nonchalance, want of occupation and indifference that seems to
possess the London beaux in Bond Street.
Sat. 7th I walked this evening in a wood lately set on fire by some
unextinguished fires being left by some persons who had encamped there,
which in dry weather often communicates to the trees. Perhaps you have
no idea of the pleasure of walking in a burning wood, but I found it so
great that I think I shall have some woods set on fire for my evening
walks. The smoke arising from it keeps the mosquitoes at a distance,
and where the fire has caught the hollow trunk of a lofty tree the flame
issuing from the top has a fine effect. In some trees where but a small
flame appears it looks like stars as the evening grows dark, and the flare
and smoke, interspread in different masses of dark woods, has a very
picturesque appearance, a little like the poet Tasso's " enchanted wood."
Sun. 8th The Governor went to church and took the oaths prepar-
atory to acting as Governor.
NOTE. The following is an extract from the Minutes of the first
Executive Council of Upper Canada held on July 8th, 1792, from
115
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
the records of the Archives Department at Ottawa, with reference to
Governor Simcoe taking the oaths.
"UPPER CANADA.
"Kingston, July 8th, 1792.
"His Excellency John Graves Simcoe, Esqr., Lieutenant-Gov-
ernor of the Province of Upper Canada, Colonel commanding the
forces in the said Province, etc., etc., etc., having appointed the
Protestant Church, as a suitable place, for the reading and publishing
of His Majesty's Commissions. He accordingly repaired thither
attended by
The Honourable William Osgoode, Chief Justice,
The Honourable James Baby,
The Honourable Peter Russell,
together with the Magistrates, and principal inhabitants, when the
said Commission appointing His Excellency, (GUY) LORD DOR-
CHESTER Captain General and Governor-in-Chief, etc., etc., etc.,
of Upper and Lower Canada, and also the Commission appointing
the said John Graves Simcoe, Lieutenant-Governor of the Province
of Upper Canada were solemnly read and published.
"His Excellency then took the Oaths mentioned in an Act of
Parliament passed in the first Year of His late Majesty King George,
as altered and explained by an Act passed in the 6th year of the
reign of his present Majesty, and also made, and subscribed the
declaration mentioned in an Act of Parliament made in the Twenty-
fifth year of the reign of Charles II., for preventing the dangers
which may happen from Popish Recusants. The Oath for the due
execution of his place and trust was administered to him by the Hon.
W. Osgoode, Chief Justice, and he also took the Oath, required by an
Act passed in the 7th and 8th years of the reign of King William III.
to be taken by Governors of Plantations to do their utmost that the
laws relating to the plantations be duely observed."
The Protestant church referred to was opened in 1792. The
Synod authorities at Kingston state that the earliest minutes of the
vestry extant, dated 1820, designate the church as St. George's. In
1827, the building was removed to make room for business houses,
and the present St. George's Cathedral was erected on the corner of
King and Johnson Streets. It was, however, called St. George's
Church until 1862, when Kingston was made the seat of a diocese.
The Cathedral was enlarged in 1892, the deep chancel and apse being
added. In 1899 the building was destroyed by fire, only the walls
remaining. It was rebuilt in 1900.
The British Whig office, 306-10 King Street, formerly called
Church Street, now stands where the first church stood. Its front
was where the rear wall back of the printing office rests. The King-
ston News of some years ago gives an interesting account of the
inception and erection of the church, which reads:
116
THE FIRST CHURCH IN KINGSTON.
"On April 15th, 1791, a meeting was held in Kingston (the record
does not say where, but most probably in the house of Dr. Stuart),
to consider the desirability of building a church and to procure the
necessary means to do so. Besides the Rev. John Stuart, there were
present at this meeting, Richard Cartwright, senior; Richard Cart-
wright, junior; James Richardson, Joseph Anderson and Archibald
Thomson. It was decided to build a church and the contract was
awarded to Archibald Thomson, who, by the way, was not a churchman,
but a Presbyterian, though probably not a very strict one, as for the
short period he remained in Kingston after the church was opened
he was a pewholder therein. Archibald Thomson was of Scottish
birth, having been born at Moudie Hill, Canobie, Dumfriesshire.
About the middle of the last century, he and two of his brothers,
Andrew and David, emigrated to the American colonies when they
were very young men, probably just before the Revolutionary War.
At its close they left the United States and settled in Upper Canada,
Archibald, the one we are referring to, coming to Kingston. He
was father of Hugh C. Thomson, an active business and newspaper
man in Kingston from 1814 until his death in 1834. Early in 1793
Archibald Thomson, who was a U. E. Loyalist, left Kingston and
removed to Markham, where he resided until his death. He is buried
in St. Andrew's churchyard in Scarborough, some twelve miles from
Toronto.
"Another meeting was held on October 25th, 1791, at which was
present the Rev. J. Stuart, Messrs. Christopher Georgen, James
Richardson, Win. Atkinson and Archibald Thomson. Resolutions
were unanimously passed as follows :
"First That the money subscribed for the purpose of erecting
a church should be immediately applied to that use.
"Second In consequence of the foregoing resolutions, a car-
penter is to be employed to erect a frame building of 40x32 feet in
the clear. To weather board, shingle and floor it; also to ceil and
sash it.
"As has been stated Archibald Thomson was the builder, and the
total cost was less than $600. The church was opened in March, 1792.
Among the first pewholders were Peter Smith, William Coffin, Allen
McLean, John Baird, Robert Macaulay, Neil McLean, two pews;
Honorable Richard Cartwright, who also had two pews. The rent of
the pews was $4 a year, or one pound, Halifax currency. In 1795,
Robert Macaulay and Peter Smith were the churchwardens. Nothing
occurred to mar the harmony that existed among the congregation.
That was before the days of surpliced choirs and choral services, and
when it would have been an unheard-of innovation had the clergyman
preached a sermon less than half an hour in duration. As regards
the musical arrangements a hundred years since, at first there was a
barrel organ, which some little time after was replaced by a manual.
Whether the organist was accompanied by a bass viol and flute, history
sayeth not, but it is more than likely such was the case.
117
DIAEY OF MBS. SIMCOE
-"On June 13th, 1795, a' public meeting was held of the parish-
ioners, when so much had the congregation increased that it was
resolved to extend the church by putting in a gallery, and this was
done."
. The son of Hugh . Thomson, editor of the Kingston Herald, was
the late Rev. C. E. Thomson of St. Mark's Church, Toronto Junction,
who in 1903 was the president of the TJ. E. Loyalists Association of
Ontario. K. G. Thomson of Norwood, Ont., is a son of the late Rev.
C. E. Thomson, and a great-grandson of Archibald Thomson.
Tues. 10th The Council met. I walked this evening. Some Indians
arrived from a distance. They fired a salute with muskets, which was
returned with a cannon.
Wed. llth The Indians came to dance before the Governor, highly
painted and in their war costume, with little clothing. They were near
enough to the house for me to hear their singing, which sounded like a
repetition in different dismal tones of he', he', 'he', and at intervals a
savage whoop. They had a skin stretched on sticks imitating a drum,
which they beat with sticks. Having drank more than usual, they con-
tinued singing the greatest part of the night. They never quarrel with
white people unless insulted by them, but are very quarrelsome amongst
themselves. Therefore, when the women see them drunk they take away
their knives, and hide them until they become sober.
This evening I walked through a pretty part of the wood and gathered
capillaire and a very pretty, small flower, five white petals of an exceeding
firm texture, the purple short chives which support the anther of the
flower proceeding from a purple rim that surrounds a very prominent green
seed-vessel, on long foot stalks; from the top of the stalk the leaves spear
shaped, sawed, polished, of the darkest green, and almost as firm as holly;
numerous. It grows in very shady places, an evergreen. I _was driven
home by the bite of a mosquito through a leather glove. My arm inflamed
so much that after supper I fainted with the pain while playing at chess
with Capt. Littlehales.
Fri. 13th Mrs. Macaulay, the garrison surgeon's wife, drank tea with
me. She is a naval officer's daughter, and a very agreeable woman.
NOTE. Dr. James Macaulay, born in Scotland in 1759, entered
the army as surgeon to the 33rd Regiment, about 1785. He came
to Canada with the Queen's
Rangers and was stationed at
Kingston and Niagara. Sub-
sequently he received the ap-
pointment as deputy inspector-
general of hospitals. In the
army list, 1795, he is given as
"Surgeon James M'Aulay, on
garrison duty." Dr. Macaulay
was twice married, first in
1790 to Elizabeth Tuck Hay-
ter, and second in 1817 to
Rachel Crookshank. He had
issue by his first wife only,
namely: (Hon.) John Sim-
coe, Colonel of the Royal Engineers; (Sir) James Buchanan, first
Chief Justice of Common Pleas, Upper Canada; George, a barrister-
118
DK. MACAULAY.
MBS. MACAULAY.
ONE OF THE PIONEER MISSIONARIES
at-law ; and Allan, a clergyman ; Elizabeth, who married Judge
Hagerman; Mary, who married John William Gamble, of Wood-
bridge; Ann, who married Dr. Peter Diehl, and Sarah Hayter, who
became the wife of John S. Cartwright. Two sons of the last named-
are James S. Cartwright, K.C., Master in Chambers, Toronto, and
John R. Cartwright, K.C., Deputy Attorney-General. Of the
daughters of Honorable John Simcoe Macaulay, Sarah Sophia Bing-
ham, Henrietta Emma and Mrs. Purcell (Elizabeth Mary) live in
England.
When Toronto became the seat of government instead of Niagara,
Dr. Macaulay settled in the former place with his family. . Teraulay
Street, Toronto, preserves the last syllable of Hayter and the two
last syllables of Macaulay.
Sat. 14th Mr. Scadding caught a beautiful green grass snake, which
was harmless. After keeping it a day or two he let it go. The way of
clearing land in this country is cutting down all the small wood, pile it
and set it on fire. The heavier timber is cut through the bark five feet
above the ground. This kills the tree, which in time the wind blows down.
The stumps decay in the ground in the course of years, but appear very
ugly for a long time, though the very large, leafless white trees have a
singular and sometimes a picturesque effect among the living trees. The
settler first builds a log hut covered with bark, and after two or three
years raises a neat house by the side of it. This progress of industry is
pleasant to observe.
Sun. 15th I went to church twice. The clergyman, Mr. Stuart, is
from the United States. He preached good sermons with an air of serious
earnestness in the cause which made them very impressive.
NOTE. Dr. John Stuart was born in Harrisburg, Pa., in 1740.
He was originally a Presbyterian, but later sought for admission
in the Church of England, was admitted to Holy
Orders in 1770 and appointed as a missionary to
the Indians at Fort Hunter on the Mohawk River
for eight years. He translated part of the New
Testament and Book of Common Prayer into the
language of the Mohawks; came to St. Johns in
the Province of Quebec in October, 1781; was
appointed chaplain to the garrison at Kingston
and arrived there in August, 1785, and was the
first incumbent of the Protestant church in King-
ston, which was erected in 1791. He died in
Kingston on 15th August, 1811, and was succeeded
as Archdeacon by Dr. John Strachan, afterwards
n f\ j * rf* i TJ_ i j_ f rCE\ . JOHN oTUAHT.
first Bishop of Toronto. It is somewhat of a co-
incidence that Bishops Strachan and Bethune, like Archdeacon
Stuart, were sons of parents who belonged to the Church of Scotland.
Archdeacon Stuart's son, Rev. George O'Kill Stuart, was born at
Fort Hunter in 1776; ordained in 1800 by the Bishop of Quebec,
and in 1801 was sent as a missionary to York, where he became first
rector of the Anglican church, now St. James Cathedral, Toronto. He
was appointed rector at Kingston in 1812, was the Bishop of Quebec's
119.
DIAEY OF MBS. SIMCOE
"official" in Upper Canada and later Archdeacon of York, and was
the first Dean of the See of Ontario. He died in 1862.
Mon. 16th We sailed half a league this evening in a pretty boat of
Mr. Clark's, attended by music, to Garden Island, opposite Kingston.
NOTE. Garden Island is immediately west of Wolfe Island,
whose western portion is opposite Kingston. In French maps it is
called "He aux Forets."
Wed. 18th We sailed towards the mills.
NOTE. The grist mills, "Kingston Mills," were in 1782-3 built by
Mr. Robert Clarke for the Government, some five miles back from
Kingston, at the site of the first lock of the Rideau Canal, where
a waterfall furnishes the only water power in this vicinity.
Thurs. 19th The Governor went to-day to see Carleton Island, nearly
opposite the shore from Kingston, where there were extensive fortifica-
tions, now dismantled. The island was afterwards discovered to be
within American territory. Returned at six with wild raspberries, which
were exceedingly fine. Carleton Island abounds with them and straw-
berries and plums, while the air is esteemed so healthy that the people go
there to get rid of the ague, a complaint which is very prevalent in this
province. The flowering raspberry grows wild here, and bears a very
insipid, flat fruit. Mr. Fisher, of the Engineers, is here on his way to
Quebec from Niagara. He showed us some beautiful sketches he has
taken of the Falls of Niagara.
NOTE. Carleton Island lies near Wolfe Island, opposite King-
ston, close to the south shore of the St. Lawrence.
Sat. 21st There are no rides about Kingston, or any pleasant walks
that we 'have met with. Sailing is, therefore, our only amusement. To-day
we were prevented by rain from going to the mills on the Cataraqui. It is
in the interest of the people here to have this place considered as the seat
of Government. Therefore they all dissuade the Governor from going to
Niagara, and represent the want of provisions, houses, etc., at that place,
as well as the certainty of having the ague. However, he has determined
to sail for Niagara to-morrow.
Mon. 23rd At eight this morning we went on board the "Onondaga"
(Commodore Beaton, the naval officer who has charge of the armed
vessels on Lake Ontario. We sailed with a light wind. A calm soon
succeeded, and we anchored seven miles from Kingston. The men who
navigate the ships on this lake have little nautical knowledge, and never
keep a log book. This afternoon we were near aground. The lake is
beautifully transparent. We saw the bottom very plainly.
Tues. 24th A wet day and a foul wind. I played at chess or at cards
all the day. Our Devonshire steward was surprised to find in the ship's
steward an acquaintance, Charles Trump, who had left Kentisbeare, the
village six miles west from Wolford, 16 years ago.
Wed. 25th A clear, cold day; made little way a head wind. I saw
the spray of the Falls of Niagara rising like a cloud. It is 40 miles
distant.
120
CHAPTER X.
MRS. SIMCOE'S ARRIVAL AT NIAGARA.
Thursday, the twenty-sixth of July, 1792, was a day that created
no little stir in the little hamlet at the mouth of the Niagara River,
which was to become the home, at least for a few years, of the first
Governor of Upper Canada.
Navy Hall had not any charms from an architectural standpoint.
It was about as primitive in construction as the log cabin of the
pioneers. Still, the group of four frame buildings that Mrs. Simcoe
closely scanned as the "Onondaga" came up the river, had at least
the merit of being well built in every detail.
The best picture extant of Navy Hall is that of 1792 made by
Mrs. Simcoe, the original of which is now in the Royal Library in the
British Museum. There is another view, a water-color, made by
Mrs. Simcoe, 13th Setember, 1794, on board the sloop-of-war
"Mississaga," while lying just outside the mouth of the Niagara
River.
The group of buildings known as Navy Hall stood on the brink
of the river, just below Fort George, the fortification commenced in
1796, whose guns commanded the old French fort on the opposite
side of the river. The buildings were four in number, as shown in
maps and drawings of 1792-6-9, and also on a map made by Sur-
veyor-General Chewett in 1804. One building only is shown in the
plans of 1817-19-35. There is only one map, dated 1851, on which it
is not called Navy Hall. The old building shown in the picture was
removed about 1862 from its original site to its present location.
When the terminus of the Southern Railway, now the Michigan
Central, was to be changed it was found that the tracks would go
partly through the oak grove and this old building. In order to save
the relic of olden time, permission was obtained from the Govern-
ment to remove the building. It was then removed back into the
enclosure of Fort George near the old Ferry House. In doing so the
building was placed parallel with the river instead of an end slanting
to it. An old lady, a Mrs. Quade, who was born at Niagara in 1804,
and lived there till 1829, in visiting the town in later years said to
her children as they passed the old building, "There is the old Par-
liament House," so that there seems to be no doubt that the building
is one of the four buildings comprising Navy Hall in 1792-6.
The principal building, longer than the others, stood nearly at
right angles to the river, while the remaining three were to the
northwest and parallel to the river. These buildings were built for
the use of the commanders of the sloops-of-war on Lake Ontario,
not so much for residential purposes as for the housing of stores to
121
DIAEY OF MBS. SIMCOE
supply the vessels when cruising on the western part of the lake.
The principal supplies for these vessels were, however, kept at
Kingston, the colonial naval centre in early days.
The site is fixed beyond doubt by the report of Captain Gother
Mann of the Eoyal Engineers, who on 22nd September, 1789, after
reporting as to the condition of Fort Niagara on what is now the
American side of the river stated that "a survey of the heights also,
on the opposite side of the river about Navy Hall, has been made
with a view to ascertain' the best system of fortifying the same so as
to establish a permanent post there, and which might also counteract
the designs of an enemy in his attack on the Fort of Niagara."
Gother Mann further reported on 1st March, 1790, that "the ground
above Navy Hall, if chosen for a principal post, will admit a wall
of good capacity, but, as it will be retired from the river, there must
be subordinate batteries on the banks thereof to command the passage ;
ONLY REMAINING BUILDING OF NAVY HALL GKOUP.
(From a Drawing [1887] in the J. Rois Robertson collection.)
it will be about sixteen hundred yards distant from the Fort at Niag-
ara, which, though within the distance of annoying an enemy, could
not prevent his carrying on operations against the Fort." The result
of this recommendation was the erection of Fort George, the earth-
works of which are still standing and have received but little care
from the Dominion Government.
The buildings of Navy Hall did not favorably impress the Duke
de -la Rochefoucauld-Liancourt during his visit to Niagara in 1795.
In his writings he refers to the Governor's residence, where he was
a guest for some time, as a "small, miserable wooden house, which
was formerly occupied by the commissaries." There seems to be no
doubt that all the buildings comprising Navy Hall except one which
is still standing, .with alas, part of the roof fallen in, were burnt
by the Americans in 1813.
122
FIEST VIEW OF NAVY HALL.
Thurs. 26th July At nine this morning we anchored at Navy Hall,
opposite the garrison of Niagara, which commands the mouth of the
river. Navy Hall is a house built by the Naval Commanders on this lake
for their reception when here. It is now undergoing a thorough repair for
our occupation, but is still so unfinished that the Governor has ordered
three marquees to be pitched for us on the hill above the house, which is
very dry ground and rises beautifully, in parts covered with oak bushes.
A fine turf leads on to woods, through which runs a very good road
leading to the Falls. The side of our hill is terminated by a very steep
bank covered with wood, a hundred feet in height in some places, at the
bottom of which runs the Niagara River. Our marquees command a
beautiful view of the river and the garrison on the opposite side, which,
from its being situated on the point, has a fine effect, and the poorness of
the building is not remarked at this distance, from whence a fine picture
might be made.
The Queen's Rangers are encamped within half a mile behind us.
In clear weather the north shore of Lake Ontario may be discerned. The
trees which abound here are oak, chestnut, ash, maple, hickory, black
walnut.
NOTE. Here Fort George stands. Below, the path slopes from
Fort George to the river. The part "covered with oak bushes" is
now (1911) called Paradise Grove. The last troops to occupy Fort
George were the Eoyal Canadian Bifles, about 1856.
Sun. 29th There is no church here, but a room has been built for a
Freemasons' Lodge, where divine service is performed.
NOTE. There has, for many years past, been a difference in
opinion as to the exact site of the building in Niagara occupied by
the Masonic Lodge in 1792-3. It is contended by some that on the
northwest corner of King and Prideaux Streets, a tavern was built,
and next to it the Freemasons' Hall. This is borne out by the fact
that the Land Board of Niagara in 1791 gave permission to erect
a tavern at the east corner of the town, near the river, and a Masonic
Lodge next to it. On the other hand however, in the Crown Lands
Department in a list of the lots of 1795, lot 33 is marked "The Lodge"
and in another document lot 33 (northwest corner of King and
Prideaux Streets) is marked "Freemasons' Lodge." The site of the
present lodge is one block from the first lodge, and it might be
that although the Land Board gave permission to build, the hall
may not have been erected there. It is practically an unsolved mys-
tery where the lodge met the first two years, but certain it is that
in 1792 there was a Freemasons' Lodge, and both tradition and
the two documents mentioned point to the north side of the lower
end of King Street as the place of meeting.
Mo/i. 30th At eight this morning we set off in caliches to go to the
Falls, fourteen miles from hence. We stopped and breakfasted at Mr.
Hamilton's, a merchant who lives two miles from here at the landing
(Queenstown), where the cargoes going to Detroit are landed and sent by
land eleven miles to Fort Chippawa.
We had a delightful drive through the woods on the bank of the
river, which is exceedingly high the whole way. As we approached the
landing I was struck with the similarity between these hills and the
banks and those of the River Wye about Symond's Yat (the name of a
125
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
rising ground or eminence overlooking the Wye), and the lime rock
near Whitchurch, both in Herefordshire, which differs very little, except
in the superior width and clearness of the Niagara River.
NOTE. Honorable Robert Hamilton, son of Rev. John Hamilton,
was the Deputy Provincial Grand Master of the First Provincial
Grand Lodge of Freemasons, under Mr. William Jarvis. He was a
merchant at Niagara, a member of the Land Board in 1791 at that
place, a member of the first Executive Council of the civil govern-
ment in 1792, and a man prominent in
affairs in that part of Upper Canada. He was
also the first judge of the district of Nassau.
Lord Dorchester formed western Canada into four
districts, of which one was Nassau, and it was
located between the river Trent on the east and
I ^ny^-j I, a line extending from Long Point north from the
>^Bdi| western boundary, which included the Niagara
i[ '", ^n ^m\ peninsula.
* ^ In 1797, the lodges at Niagara elected Hamil-
ton as Provincial Grand Master in the place of
Mr. William Jarvis, although the records after
that date give the name of the latter officer
as continuing in the office to which he had been appointed.
Mr. Simon McGillivray, however, in a letter which he wrote
to the Grand Master of England, in 1822, states that after Mr.
Jarvis removed to York "the lodges at Niagara held a meeting
and elected the late Robert Hamilton Provincial Grand Master,"
but, he added, "Jarvis retained his warrant." It is possible that the
lodges did this in 1797 and at a subsequent meeting in 1799-1800
re-elected Jarvis, for in a circular, dated 29th March, 1803, "R. W.
Bro. William Jarvis, Esq., G. Master," is given.
During the American revolution, Mr. Hamilton, in partnership
with Mr. (afterwards Hon.) Richard Cartwright, established a store
on Carleton Island, near the military post which was known as Fort
Haldimand, and carried on an extensive trade with the Indians.
Soon after the close of the war Mr. Hamilton removed to Queenston,
and was appointed one of the local judges, having Lieutenant-Colonel
John Butler as his colleague on the bench.
Captain Patrick Campbell, who visited Niagara in December,
1790, says:
"Mr. Robert Hamilton, a gentleman of the first rank and property
in the neighbourhood, and one of the Governor's Council, came also to
wait on me and invite me to his house, an honour I readily embraced.
He and Mrs. Hamilton were so very obliging as to go along with me in
their oak sled to see the Grand Falls of Niagara."
Hamilton built a large stone residence at Queenston, a brewery
and a warehouse. In 1792 he was appointed a member of the Legis-
lative Council for the new Province of Upper Canada, an office he
retained until his death. For some time he distinguished himself
in connection with Mr. Cartwright, his old partner, also a member,
126
MRS. SIMCOE AT QUEENSTOWN
by opposing Government measures, thereby incurring Lieutenant-
Governor Simcoe's lively displeasure. In one of the Governor's des-
patches he denounces Hamilton as an " avowed republican," but when
it was hinted that certain privileges would be taken away from them
the opposition ceased. Governor Simcoe acknowledged that he had
received much valuable information from Mr. Hamilton respecting
.the commerce of the country and particularly the Indian trade of the
far West.
Mr. Hamilton married about 1786, Catherine (Askin) Robertson,
widow of John Robertson. There were five children by this marriage;
Robert, of Queenston; (Hon.) George, who in 1812 moved to Bur-
lington Bay, where he became the founder of the city of Hamilton ;
James, of London; Alexander and Samuel. Hamilton took as his
RESIDENCE OF HONORABLE ROBERT HAMILTON ON THE
NIAGARA RIVER ROAD, 1792.
(From a Drawing by Mrs. Simcoe.)
second wife Mary (Herkimer) McLean, widow of Neil McLean, and
had issue, Joseph, Peter Hunter and (Hon.) John, of Kingston, one
of whose sons, Clark Hamilton, was formerly collector of the port of
Kingston ; while another was the late Judge J. M. Hamilton, County
Judge of Halton.
Mon. 30th Mr. Hamilton has a very good stone house, the back
rooms overlooking on the river. A gallery, the length of the house, is A
delightful covered walk, both below and above, in all weather. After an
excellent breakfast we ascended an exceedingly steep road to the top of
the mountain, which commands a fine view of the country as far as the
garrison of Niagara and across the lake. From hence the road is entirely
flat to the Falls, of which I did not hear the sound until within a mile of
127
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
them. They are heard at Navy Hall before the rain when the wind is
easterly, though the Falls are to the S.W. of Niagara. The fall is said
to be but 170 feet in height. The river previously rushes in the most
rapid manner on a declivity for three miles, and those rapids are a fine
sight. The fall itself is the grandest sight imaginable from the immense
width of waters and the circular form of the grand fall, to the left of
which is an island, between it and the Montmorency Fall, so called from
being near the size of the fall of that name near Quebec. A few rocks
separate this from Fort Schlosser Fall, on the American side of the river,
which, passing over a straight ledge of rock, has not the beauty of the
circular form or its green colour, the whole centre of the circular fall
being of the brightest green, and below it is frequently seen a rainbow.
NOTE. By the interposition of two islands the river Niagara is
separated into three falls, that of the Great Horseshoe on the west
or British side, and those of Fort Schlosser and Montmorency on the
eastern or American side. The three falls, with the islands, describe
a crescent.
Mon. 30th I descended an exceedingly steep hill to get to the Table
Rock, from whence the view of the Falls is tremendously fine. Men some-
times descend the rocks below this projecting point, but it is attended
with great difficulty and perhaps little picturesque advantage. The
prodigious spray which arises from the foam at the bottom of the fall
adds grandeur to the scene, which is wonderfully fine, and after the eye
becomes more familiar with the objects I think the pleasure will be greater
in dwelling upon them. After taking some refreshment on Table Rock,
we went three miles to Chippawa Fort, admiring the rapids all the way.
The Chippawa River, which falls here into the St. Lawrence, is a dull,
muddy river running through a flat, swampy country.
NOTE. The St. Lawrence Eiver may be said to rise at the source
of the St. Louis, which flows into Lake Superior. It receives different
names in different parts of its course. Between Lake Superior and
Huron it is called the St. Mary; between Lake Huron and Erie, the
St. Clair and Detroit ; between Lake Ontario and Erie, the Niagara ;
and between Lake Ontario and the ocean it takes the name of St.
Lawrence. The part of the river below Kingston is called some-
times "The Lake of the Thousand Islands."
People cross from Chippawa to Fort Schlosser, but great caution
is necessary, the current is so extremely strong, and if they did not make
exactly the mouth of the Chippawa the force of the water below it would
inevitably carry them down the Falls without redress. Eight soldiers,
who were intoxicated, met with this accident in crossing the river some
years since. Their bodies were taken up entire some distance below the
Falls. An Indian was asleep in his canoe near Fort Schlosser. The canoe
was tied to a tree; some person cut the rope; he did not wake until the
canoe had got into the strong current. He found all his endeavours to
paddle ineffectual, and was seen to lay himself down, resigning himself to
his fate, and was soon carried down the Fall.
In the evening we returned to Mr. Hamilton's and slept there. I
suffered exquisite pain all the day from a mosquito bite, which the extreme
heat increased, and at night my sleeve was obliged to be cut open. I did
not see any rattlesnakes, though many ladies are afraid to go to the Table
Rock, as it is said there are many of these snakes near it. There are
crayfish in very small pools of water. Mr. McDonnell said that pounded
crayfish applied to the wound was a cure for the bite of a rattlesnake.
Tues. 31st Returned to dine in our marquee. Information is received
from Prince Edward that he will be here the 20th of August, which will
128
FORMING NEW FRIENDSHIPS
prevent our going to Detroit immediately, as the Governor had intended.
Here are numbers of winged grasshoppers. They are hard, scaly and
ugly as rhinoceros, and the colour of dead leaves. The high grounds
above Navy Hall are so covered with them that the whole field appears
in motion.
Wed. Aug. 1st We dined with Major and Mrs. Smith (the Major was
afterwards the Colonel of the regiment). He is in the 5th Regt, and
commands the garrison. Lt. Smith, his son, is married to a beautiful
Irish woman. A great many officers of the 5th are married. Though the
buildings look so well from the other side, I found the quarters very
indifferent.
Mrs. Smith has two tame racoons. They resemble a fox, are exceed-
ingly fat animals, with bushy tails. It is remarkable that they have a
joint in the nose. When they eat they use their fore feet, as monkeys do.
I also saw a flying squirrel, which I did not admire. Its tail was like a
rat's, and the eyes very large. I thought the ground squirrel much prettier.
The black squirrel is large and quite black. It is as good to eat as a
young rabbit.
NOTE. Major John Smith, afterwards lieutenant-colonel of the
Fifth Foot, was commandant of the fortress of Niagara, where he died
in 1795. His son, Lieutenant Smith, was subsequently Sir D. W.
Smith, Surveyor-General, Upper Canada. Mrs. Simcoe speaks of
Lieutenant Smith being married "to a beautiful Irish woman," who
was his first wife, Anne, daughter of John O'Reilly, Ballykilchrist,
County Longford, Ireland. The 5th Regiment of Foot or Northum-
berland Fusiliers, of which Lieutenant-Colonel Smith was in com-
mand at Niagara from 1792 until his death, was formed in
1674, fought in Flanders and also in the war of the American Revolu-
tion. In 1774 the regiment landed in Boston; in 1778 was in
various parts of the West Indies and returned to England in 1781.
In 1787 the regiment embarked for Canada and in 1790 was quar-
tered at Detroit, whence it was removed in June, 1792, to Niagara.
It was here reviewed by H.R.H. the Duke of Kent and General
Simcoe, who reported to the commander-in-chief that it was the
"most fit for actual service." The regiment remained at Niagara
till that fort was given up to the Americans in 1796, when it was
ordered to Quebec. In 1797 it returned to England.
Fri. 3rd The Governor set out this evening to sleep at the Landing
(Queenstown), intending to go to-morrow to Fort Erie, thirty miles. Mr.
Talbot (Gov. Simcoe's private secretary) drove me to the Landing, and we
returned to supper at Navy Hall. We saw a fine bald eagle on the wing.
Sat. 4th The Governor returned to dinner quite unexpectedly, having
heard that the vessels he meant to have seen had sailed from Fort Erie
to Detroit. Mrs. Macaulay drank tea with me. The weather is so exceed-
ingly hot that I am quite oppressed by it, and unable to employ myself.
I am sorry I have not a thermometer to ascertain the degree of heat. We
have a very large bower, composed of oak boughs, in which we dine, it
being greatly cooler than a tent. We like this place much better than
Kingston. Mrs. Hamilton and her sister, Miss Askin, daughters of Coll.
John Askin, a wealthy merchant of Detroit, dined with us. They are
French women from Detroit.
NOTE. John Askin, or Erskine, a kinsman of John Erskine,
Earl of Mar, who headed the revolt in 1715 in favor of the Old Pre-
131
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
tender, emigrated to America about 1759 and was a merchant at
Albany. About 1762-3, he with others, came with supplies to the
relief of the British besieged by Pontiac at Detroit. In 1764, he
went as King's Commissary to Michillimackinac and in 1780 returned
to Detroit to engage in trade. In 1787 Askin was captain of militia
for Detroit, in 1796 was lieutenant-colonel of militia for the Wes-
tern District, and in 1801, was colonel in the same corps. He was
also one of the magistrates of the District. On the evacuation of
Detroit by the British in 1796 he came to Canada.
Colonel Askin married first a French lady whose
name cannot be ascertained and by her had three
children, John, Catherine (Robertson) who be-
came the wife of Honorable Robert B. Hamilton,
of Niagara, and Madeleine, who married Dr.
Richardson, of the Queen's Rangers. The chil-
dren by his second wife, Marie Archange Barthe,
were Therese, who married Colonel Thomas Mc-
Kee, son of Colonel Alexander McKee, Deputy
Superintendent-General of Indian Affairs; Ar-
c change, married Colonel Meredith, of the Royal
Artillery, afterwards commandant at Halifax;
Adelaide, married Colonel Elijah Brush, of the Michigan Militia;
Charles, captain in Colonel Clark's Lincoln Militia, married Monique
Jacobs; James, colonel of militia; Alexander, artillery driver, 1812-
15; Eleanor, married Richard Pattison, of Sandwich, captain of
militia. A. H. Askin, of "Strabane," near Walkerville, is a son of
Charles; J. "Wallace Askin, of Sandwich, is a grandson of James,
while William Johnson McKee, of Windsor, is a great-grandson of
Therese Askin.
Mon. 6th The Queen's Rangers are encamped at the Landing, and
are employed in building huts near the river to live in next winter. It is
a very picturesque place. The Governor crossed the water from thence,
and ascended a very steep road to see the remains of the French fort at
Lewis-ton.
From thence there is a fine view towards the head of Lake Ontario,
50 miles distant. Near this fort are tumuli, or earth mounds, where
bones have been dug up, and it is supposed to have been an Indian bury-
ing place. I received some shaddocks, a species of orange, from the West
Indies, which I considered an excellent fruit.
NOTE. The original corps known as "Rogers' Rangers" was
raised in Connecticut and the vicinity of New York by Colonel
Robert Rogers, under whom it served in the war with the French.
Their strength was at one time 400, all Americans and all Loyalists.
In 1776 Rogers was appointed Governor of Michillimackinac. He
was succeeded in his command of the Rangers by Colonel French
and afterwards Major Weymess, whom Major Simcoe succeeded. The
latter reorganized the corps as the Queen's Rangers and it fought
under him in the war of the American Revolution. It was dis-
banded in 1782. The Queen's Rangers of Niagara history were a
132
A STORM AT NIAGARA
different body. They were raised in Canada from old soldiers of
the regular regiments, strengthened by a detachment of ex-soldiers
from English regiments, which was drafted and came out to Canada
with William Jarvis, the first Provincial Secretary, in 1792. They
were camped at Queenstown in 1792 and in August of 1793 the
two divisions of the regiment were stationed at York, now Toronto.
The British War Office ordered the disbandment of the regiment in
1802. There was a Masonic Lodge in this regiment, known as No.
3 on the Provincial Masonic Register. Provincial Secretary Jarvis,
who was the Provincial Grand Master for Upper Canada, issued a
warrant establishing this lodge in 1793. It ceased work in 1802 at
the time the regiment was disbanded.
NIAGARA RIVER AT QUEENSTOWN, 1792.
(From a Drawing by Mrs. Simeoe.)
Fri. 17th I desired to drive out last evening, though everybody fore-
told an approaching thunderstorm, which indeed came on with great
violence when we were half way to the Landing. I feared that the lightning
would make the horse run away, but he only started at every flash. The
recollection that it was my own determination brought me into danger was
very unpleasant. However, we got back safe and in time to save the
marquees from being blown down. Mr. Grey's and Mr. Talbot's were over-
set, but the Governor preserved ours by having the cords held until the
violence of the storm was over. The tents were so near the river that we
were afraid they would be blown into it.
We were iso cold and wet we were glad to drink tea. It was quite
dark, and too windy to allow of our burning candles, and when the forked
flashes of lightning enlightened the air I was able to drink tea. I wrapped
myself up in two or three great-coats, and intended, if the tent was blown
down, to take shelter under the great dinner table. The rain and wind
did not cease for two hours, and we had no means of drying our clothes
and were obliged to sleep in a wet tent. However, we have not caught
cold.
135
DIAEY OF MBS. SIMCOE
1 received a very pretty set of Nankeen china from England to-day,
and in an hour after it was unpacked the temporary kitchen (an arbour
of oak boughs) took fire, and in the hurry of moving the china it was
almost all broken. Luckily the weather was calm, or the tents might
have taken fire. We are in daily expectation of the Prince. The canvas
houses are not arrived or Navy Hall finished, and the dilemma has been
whether to give him the marquees for his residence or the damp house.
We have decided to take the latter ourselves, so here we came in a cold,
blowing, dismal night.
I sat by myself in a miserable, unfinished, damp room, looking on
the lake, where it blew quite a gale, the " Bear," a gunboat, tossing about
terribly, and not a cheerful thought passing through my mind, when 1
had the happiness of receiving a letter from you, which raised my spirits,
though for some hours after that pleasure I felt more dejected than at all
other times, from the recollection of absence from my friends.
The " Bear," a Government sloop, is arrived from Irondiquet Bay
and the Genesee River, both in New York State, and brought two families
from Carolina to settle in this province. They have had a most terrible
passage, being obliged to stay under the hatchway almost all the time.
Sat. 18th We crossed the river; from a green bank had a very pretty
view of Navy Hall.
Mon. 20th Cold weather. We walked.
Tues. 21st Very cold; we walked by the side of the lake, which is
quite like a sea beach, only the marine smell is wanting.
Tues. Sept. 18th Prince Edward came here the 21st of August. He
went to the Fort at Niagara, and when a salute was fired the Governor
was standing very near the cannon, and from that moment was seized
with so violent a pain in his head that he was unable to see the Prince
after that day, and kept his room for a fortnight. He had a gouty pain in
his hand before, and it is supposed the shock of the cannon firing so
immediately above him fixed the disorder in his head. He is now
recovered, and has a pain in his foot, which perhaps would more effectu-
ally relieve his head if it were more violent.
Lord Garlies and Capt. Markham stayed here a week, but the Governor
was not well enough to see them more than once.
NOTE. Prince Edward, afterwards Duke of Kent, arrived at
Navy Hall to visit General Simcoe, August 21, 1792. On the 23rd
he went to Fort Niagara to review the troops, and
on the 26th he sailed for Kingston.
George, Viscount Garlies, was the eldest son
of the 7th Earl of Galloway. He was in com-
mand of the "Winchelsea" with Sir John Jervis'
fleet in the West Indies and was mentioned for
distinguished conduct. He became 8th Earl in
November, 1806. He died 27th March, 1834,
and was succeeded by his eldest son Eandolph.
John Markham, second son of William, Arch-
bishop of York, was in command of the "Blonde"
with Jervis' West Indian fleet and was mentioned
VISCOUNT GARLIES in ^patc* 168 31st April, 1794, for distinguished
conduct in the attack on St. Pierre.
Wed. 19th I send you May apple seeds. I think it is the prettiest
plant I have seen; the leaves extremely large, of a bright green; the
flower consists of five white petals of the texture of orange flowers, but
three times larger; ten yellow chives round a large seed vessel, which
136
MAJOR LITTLEHALES VISITS PHILADELPHIA
becomes a fruit of the colour and near the size of a magnum bonum plum,
the seeds resembling a melon. The flower is on a short foot stalk, one or
two sitting between the leaves. They grow near the roots of old trees in
good land. The fruit is ripe in August. Manitou means the " Evil Spirit "
or "Devil" in the Iroquois language; Niche is "friend," and sago "How-
do-you-do?" These are the Indian words I have learnt.
Sun. Nov. 4th We have had a great many whitefish. They are caught
here from October to April. In summer they go into deeper water. They
are most exquisitely good. We all think them better than any other fresh
or salt water fish; they are so rich that sauce is seldom eaten with them,
but it is a richness that never tires, it is of so delicate a kind. They are
usually boiled, or set before the fire in a pan with a few spoonfuls of
water and an anchovy, which is a very good way of dressing them. The
sturgeon are about six feet long. Those that are caught here are infinitely
better than those which go to the sea; cooks who know how to dress
parts of them, cutting away all that is oily and strong, make excellent
dishes from sturgeon, such as mock turtle soup, veal cutlets, etc., and it
is very good roasted with bread crumbs. The 5th Regt. have caught 100
sturgeon and 600 whitefish in a day in nets.
A great many settlers come daily from the United States, some even
from the Carolinas, about 2,0'00 miles. Five or six hundred miles is no
more considered by an American than moving to the next parish is by an
Englishman. Capt. Duncan has sent me the horse I rode to Mr. Frazier's.
Mr. Talbot went with Coll. Butler to distribute presents to the Indians
at Buffalo Creek, near Buffalo. He bought a very pretty fawn skin of one
of them for me, and I made it into a tippet. He also brought me a cake
of dried hurtleberries made by the Indians, which was like Irwin's patent
black currant lozenges, but tastes of smoke.
The Indians make very long speeches at their councils. One of them,
named Cowkiller, spoke for five hours in a late debate between them and
the people of the United States.
I have seen some translations of speeches, full of well-expressed, fine
sentiments, marking their reliance on the Great Spirit. They appear to
have great energy and simplicity in their speeches.
NOTE. Buffalo Creek is south of Buffalo City, near New Am-
sterdam, and four miles above Fort Schlosser.
Cowkiller was a Seneca Chief, and a speaker at a council meeting
February 7th, 1794, at Buffalo Creek.
iMon. Nov. 5th The ships sail for Kingston this week, and remain
there closed up by the ice in that harbour until April. The Governor will
now have less to write, and, I hope, fewer headaches. The winter express
indeed will afford an opportunity of sending some despatches. It arrives
here from Quebec late in January, and after going to Detroit returns here;
it was established for the use of the merchants, and travels on snowshoes,
coming by way of Fort Oswego. Capt. Stevenson has gone to England,
and Mr. Littlehales to Philadelphia, to see Mr. Hammond, the British
Ambassador to the United States.
NOTE. George Hammond was sent in 1791 by Lord Grenville,
Secretary for Foreign Affairs, to Philadelphia to act as Minister
plenipotentiary to the United States. Although only twenty-eight,
Hammond was the first British minister accredited to the United
States. Thomas Jefferson, the American Secretary of State, re-
garded his arrival as a "friendly movement." The conflicting claims
of the two countries in giving effect to the Treaty of 1783 involved
139
DIARY OP MES. SIMCOE
Jefferson and Hammond in very serious controversy. In 1795
Hammond left America to become Under-Secretary at the Foreign
Office in London.
Tues. Nov. 6th I have met with a beautiful blue flower near the
river. The edges of the petal are finely sawed. The cardinal flower, which
grows in the wettest and most shady places, is a beautiful colour. I
am told the Indians use the roots medicinally.
I send you some seeds of the wild asparagus. It may be eaten when
very young; afterwards it becomes poisonous. The milky cotton in the
seed vessel is very pretty, and makes excellent pillows and beds. I hope
you will ; grow enough to stuff a muff. I do not know how to describe the
flower, it is so unlike anything I ever saw.
Mon. 26th We have had very little snow, which is melted; the
weather is again as the autumn, has continued very mild and pleasant.
Mr. Bouchette has surveyed Toronto Harbour. It is 35 miles from hence
across the lake.
NOTE. Commodore Jean Bouchette was horn at Quebec on the
5th July, 1736. He was the son of Marc Bouchette, who held a Gov-
ernment appointment under the French regime. The family is of
Breton extraction, being, according to tradition, descended from
Jean Bouchet, who wrote chronicles at the time of Joan of Arc.
When Sir G-uy Garleton was forced by the Americans to withdraw
from Montreal in 1775, Bouchette took the 'Governor-General and
two aides, all disguised as peasants, in an open boat to Quebec. A
flotilla of eleven boats was captured by .the enemy.
In 1783, Bouchette was placed in command on Lake Ontario and
established the Naval Docks at Kingston. He held this position until
his death in 1804. There appears to have been some difference of
opinion between General Simcoe and Commodore Bouchette as to
the respective merits of Toronto and Kingston as the naval base
on Lake Ontario, the latter declaring that as the
American base was at Sackett's Harbour, the
British forces should be concentrated at Kingston.
Bouchette married in 1772 Angelique Duhamel.
Lieutenant-Colonel Joseph Bouchette, son of
the Commodore, began his career in the provincial
navy under his father. He made the first survey
of the harbor of Toronto in May, 1793, received
his appointment as second lieutenant in the fol-
lowing year, serving in the navy until 1796. In
1797, he commanded an armed row-galley which
cruised between Montreal and Quebec. His
reports seem to have led to the arrest of Colonel
McLean, afterwards executed as a spy. He took
a military course in 1800. In 1804, he was
appointed Surveyor-General of Lower Canada, raised a regiment,
Quebec Volunteers, in 1812, and in 1813 was appointed lieutenant-
colonel and transferred to staff and intelligence service. In August,
1814, Bouchette left for England, and while there was nominated
140
THAYENDANEGEA
Surveyor-General under the several articles of the Treaty of Ghent,
for establishing the boundary between the United States and His
Majesty's possessions in America. He published maps of Canada and
two works "Topography of Lower Canada," in one volume, 8vo,
London, 1815; and "Topography of the British Dominions in North
America," 3 volumes, 4to, London, 1831-2. He married Adelaide,
daughter of Charles Chaboillez of the North- West Company, and had
three sons, Joseph, Deputy-Surveyor-General; Frank, 68th Light
Infantry, and Robert Shore Milnes, Commissioner of Customs until
1875. The surviving representatives of the family in Canada are
Errol Bouchette, F.R.S.C., of Ottawa, a writer on economics and
sociology, and Robert Shore Milnes Bouchette of Montreal.
Wed. 28th Went to the Fort this morning. Mrs. Macaulay drank
tea with me, and I had a party at whist in the evening. The partition
was put in the canvas houses to-day, by which means I have a bedroom
in it as well as a sitting-room. These rooms are very comfortable, about
thirty feet long. The grates did not answer for burning, and I have had
a stove placed instead, though as yet a fire has not been wanted. The
weather is so mild that we have walked in the garden from eight till nine
in the moonlight these last two evenings.
Mon. 3rd Dec. The Governor went to the Landing, and I went to
the Fort to see Capt. Darling's stuffed birds. The most beautiful of
them he called a meadow lark, the size of a blackbird, the colours
the richest yellow, shaded to orange intermixed with black; the
Recollect, a light brown with a tuft on its head and the tips of the
wings scarlet, like sealing wax; a blackbird with scarlet on the wings
they abound here in swamps; a scarlet bird called a King bird, the size of
a small thrush; a bird like a canary bird, but the colours much brighter;
a grand Due Owl. Among the animals there was a skunk like a pole-
cat, with black and white marks.
NOTE. Henry Darling was ensign in the 5th Regiment in 1780.
In April, 1783, he had rank as lieutenant in the army, and in the
regiment the following September. He eventually became General.
In September, 1793, he, with Lieutenant Pilkington of the Royal
Engineers, Lieutenant Givins of the Queen's Rangers, and Mr. Alex-
ander Aitkin, Deputy Provincial Surveyor, accompanied Governor
Simcoe to Matchedash Bay.
iSun. 9th Capt. Brant (Thayendanegea), Chief of the Six Nations
Indians, dined here. He has a countenance expressive of art or cunning.
He wore an English coat, with a handsome crimson silk blanket, lined
with black and trimmed with gold fringe, and wore a fur cap; round his
neck he had a string of plaited sweet hay. It is a kind of grass which
never loses its pleasant scent. The Indians are very fond of it. Its smell
is like the Tonquin or Asiatic Bean.
NOTE. Joseph Brant's Indian name Thayendanegea denotes
strength and is translated "Two sticks of wood bound together." He
was born on the banks of the Ohio in 1742, where his parents were
engaged in a hunting expedition. The home of the family was at
Canajoharie Castle, the central of the three castles of the Mohawk?
in their native Mohawk valley. Brant's father, who was a full-
blooded Mohawk of the Wolf tribe, died when the lad was quite
141
DIAEY OF MES. SIMCOE
THAYENDANEGEA.
young. The widow married a second time an Indian whose Christian
name was Barnet, hence the- contraction Brant. Joseph was educated
at "Moor Charity School" in Lebanon, Connecti-
cut. He accompanied Sir William Johnson with
the army during several expeditions against the
French, and took part in many of the encounters
between the revolutionists and the Indian tribes.
His allegiance to Britain so provoked the Ameri-
cans that the valley of the Mohawks, the original
home of Brant's people, suffered more than any
other part of the country during the war.
In 1776 he visited England and was presented
to the Court. He proudly declined to kiss the
King's hand, but remarked that he would gladly
thus salute the Queen. While in England he was
initiated into Freemasonry in "The Falcon Lodge"
in Princess St., Leicester Fields, London, and presented by George
III. with a Masonic apron.
After the war, he, with a greater part of the Mohawks, and a
number of Indians from the other five tribes, withdrew to Canada,
where the Six Nations subsequently received grants of land on the
Bay of Quinte and the Grand River. Brant had a grant of land near
Wellington Square, now Burlington, Ontario, where he built a dwell-
ing long known as Brant House.
In 1785 through his efforts a wooden church was erected at the
Mohawk village near Brantford, where was placed the first " church-
going bell" that ever tolled in Upper Canada.
In 1791-2, when Governor Simcoe arrived as Lieutenant-Governor
of Upper Canada, he was the bearer of a letter of introduction to
Brant from the Duke of
Northumberland, who
had been adopted by the
Mohawks under the In-
dian name "Thorighwe-
geri," or the Evergreen
Brake. This name in-
volves the very pretty
conceit that a titled house
never dies.
In the years 1791-2
Brant was energetically
negotiating for peace be-
tween the Indian tribes
and the United States.
Governor Simcoe on his
to Detroit in 1793
BRANT HOUSE AT BURLINGTON, ONT.
(From a Drawing in the J. fioss Robertgon
collection.)
way t(
had a conference with him at the Council House in the Mohawk
village on the Grand Eiver. An important conference between the
142
GOVERNOR SIMCOE WALKS TO BURLINGTON BAY
United States Commissioners and the Indian chief was held at Navy
Hall, Niagara, and a subsequent conference was held at Detroit. He
died in Brant House on the 24th November, 1807, aged 64, and his
remains were interred in a vault on the south side of the Mohawk
Church on the Grand River.
It is noteworthy that Brant, although a chief by courtesy and
ability, and always so called, was not such by descent.
Mon. 10th The Governor set out to walk to Burlington Bay (now
Hamilton, Ont), at the head of Lake Ontario, about fifty miles from hence.
Sat. 15th Mrs. Macaulay gave me an account of a subscription ball
she was at, which is to be held in the town of Niagara every fortnight
during the winter. There were fourteen couples, a great display of gauze,
feathers and velvet, the room lighted by wax candles, and there was a
supper as well as tea.
Sun. 16th I sat up all night to read poems of Louis Velez de Guevara,
the Spanish poet and dramatist (1570-1644), and the history of Prince
Ctesiphon, and some pages of "Don Quixote"; went to bed in my clothes
at six, rose at nine, dressed, breakfasted at ten.
Mon. 17th The Governor returned at five to-day from his walk to
Burlington Bay. The shores of the lake are, for a great distance, as high
as the Falls of Niagara, and several small rivers, falling from that height,
make picturesque scenes. He was delighted with the beauty of the
country and industry of the inhabitants. He lodged every night in houses,
where he was accommodated with a clean room and a good fire.
Sun. 23rd I left Trojan, my hound, in my room while I went to
dinner, and he tore to pieces my best map of Canada and the United
States, which I had taken great pains to draw. I must paste it together
again, but its appearance is spoiled. The Governor made some very pretty
verses on the occasion.
Sat. 29th Coll. Simcoe walked to the Landing and Fort Schlosser,
opposite Chippawa. The weather is so mild we breakfasted with the door
open into the garden.
NOTE. Simcoe must have crossed the river at Queenston Landing
and thence walked to Fort Schlosser on the American shore, about
a mile and a half above the Falls, almost opposite Chippawa. It was
built by Colonel Schlosser of the British Army in 1760 to replace
the second Fort Little Niagara which had been burned by order of
General Pouchot, who was in command of Fort Niagara in 1759 when
the British besieged the greater fort. This second Fort Little Nia-
gara was a short distance down stream from the site of Fort Schlosser.
Both forte were at the upper end of the portage which ran from
Lewiston to that point. Queenston and Lewiston were called the
Lower Landings, and Chippawa and Schlosser the Upper Landings,
on the Canadian and American shores respectively. In 1792, the
first Fort Little Niagara (abandoned in 1751) was merely the
remains of a blockhouse, and the second Fort Little Niagara but a
memory. Fort Schlosser, an earthwork fort, was at that time
garrisoned, though it was never a strong fort. The eleven block-
houses (shown on the map) built by Montresor in 1764, were in
1792 in a dilapidated condition, and when given up in 1796 at the
end of the "hold over" period, were almost useless. There are now
no remains of Fort Schlosser, which stood near the river bank. A
143
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOB
MAP OF NIAGARA
RIVER
Showing First Fort, Little
Niagara at C, built in
"745-
Second Fort, Little Niagara,
built 1751, and road ex-
tended to it in 1763.
L-leven Block Houses built
along Portage Road in
1764 by Montressor, and
new part of Portage Road,
built in 1764, marked with
a dotted line from letter
H to Fort Schlosser.
ESCARPMENT LEWISTON
NIAGARA
FALLS
CHIPPAWA
B:
h i
&
t/2
O
ft
^
O
W
03
144
NEAR FORT SCHLOSSER
stone chimney, however, which stood a short distance away, still
exists. It was moved about a hundred feet from its original site
and re-erected stone by stone in 1896. Mr. Peter A. Porter writes
that it was, prior to its removal, the oldest remaining bit of perfect
masonry on the frontier. It
was attached to the barracks
which the French built for
Fort Little Niagara, and was
later attached to the mess
house which the British built
in connection with Fort
Schlosser. The frame of that
mess house was prepared at
Fort Niagara, at the mouth
of the river, while the French
were in possession there. It
was intended for a Catholic
church but the British took
the frame to the site of the new
fort, and put it up there.
Judge Porter resided in the
building from 1806 to 1809.
It was burned in 1813. The
sketch of the chimney was
made for Lossing by Colonel Peter A. Porter, of Niagara Falls, N.Y.,
who was killed in the American 'Civil War. He was the father of
Mr. Peter A. Porter of Niagara Falls, N.Y., who has done much for
the research of Niagara Falls history.
The map gives the relative position of the existing forts on the
American and Canadian sides of the river in 1792 and the sites of
first and second Forts Little Niagara.
Mon. 31st A large party at dinner. Mrs. Hamilton, wife of Hon.
Robert Hamilton, came to see me. We play at whist every evening.
Coll. Simcoe is so occupied during the day with business that it is a
relaxation. I have not. lost one rubber since the 28th of November. We
usually play four every evening.
Mr. Chief Justice Osgoode is now in his own house, which is so near
that he always came in an evening to make up our party. Till within
this fortnight he resided in our house, not having been able to meet with
any that suited him, and Coll. Simcoe finds him a very agreeable com-
panion.
REMAINS NEAB FORT SCHLOSSEB.
10
145
CHAPTER XI.
JOURNEYS OF THE GOVERNOR.
Shortly after Major Littlehales' return from Philadelphia in
January, 1793, Governor Simcoe set out for Detroit, walking with
his party a greater part of the way. This midwinter trip, which to
a certain extent was one of exploration, occupied about five weeks.
Not only did the country west of Niagara impress the Governor
favorably, but he was convinced that an admirable site for Canada's
capital would be New London, on La Tranche (Thames) River, now
London, Ontario.
Sun. 3rd Feb., 1793 Mr. Littlehales returned from Philadelphia. He
gave the following journal of his travelling to New York: "Crossed the
water at Queenstown (the Landing), ascended the mountain which is a
part of the Alleghany. Six miles beyond the Landing passed the Tus-
carora village, and forty miles farther the Tonawanda village, on the
Niagara river, which runs into Tonawanda Creek, and is eleven miles
S.E. of Niagara Falls. The Tonawanda Creek is navigable for batteau
nearly to its source; from thence through a thick wood, full of swamps
and creeks, twenty miles to Butter Milk Falls, so named from the richness
of the land, to the Genesee River, 95 miles from Niagara; thence to Lake
Cayuga ferry two miles, 150 miles from Niagara, to Onondaga Lake, two
miles N.W. of Syracuse, 190 miles to Niagara." Mr. Littlehales travelled
late; after passing Onondaga Lake lost himself in the woods, and was
thirty hours without provisions. Whitestown, in Oneida County, N.Y.,
near Fort Stanwix, on the Mohawk River, 250 miles from Niagara, has
6,000 inhabitants. Seven years ago it was a desert. From Whitestown to
Schenectady, 80 miles; fine meadows called German Flats, chiefly
inhabited by Germans. Schenectady, N.Y., is a regular-built, considerable
town, containing 3,000 Dutch. It is 300 miles from Niagara. New York
is finely situated. Mr. Littlehales stayed there but two days, and pro-
ceeded to Philadelphia, 600 miles from Niagara. He left it on the 5th of
January, and on the 9th reached Northumberland, on the forks of the
Susquehanna. Each town has a thousand inhabitants. Mr. Littlehales
forded the Tioga seven times, crossed the Conestoga and Conhocton Rivers,
then went 60 miles over extremely steep ridges of the Alleghany mountains
to Williamsburgh, in the Genesee, and arrived at Niagara on the 20th,
which by this route is but 400 miles from Philadelphia.
NOTE. There are no entries in the diary from 31st December,
1792, until February 3rd, 1793. On the 16th of January, 1793,
Katherine, the seventh child and sixth daughter of Mrs. Simcoe, was
born at Niagara. This little one died in York and was buried in
the Military Burying Ground west of the old Fort on the 17th April,
1794. There is no record in York of the birth or baptism of this
child. There was no parish register in 1793 ; for the first church in
York^wa's not erected until 1802, when the parish was constituted.
Religious services at that time were held in the barracks of the Fort.
There is, however, a record in the parish book of Dunkeswell. which
146
I
o ->
12
s 5
a I
147
DIAEY OF MKS. SIMCOE
states that the daughter Katherine was born 16th January, 1793,
at York and died at "two years of age" and was buried in York on
the 17th of April, 1795. There is no doubt as to the birth date, but
the burial date is an error. Katherine was only a year and three
months old at the time of her death and burial, which took place
at York on either the 17th or 18th of April, 1794, while Mrs. Simcoe
was living there. It could not have occurred in April, 1795, for
Mrs. Simcoe was then at Kingston.
It is odd that Mrs. Simcoe makes no reference in the diary -to the
birth of her daughter, but in a letter to Mrs. Hunt, dated February,
1793, she writes "I have the pleasure to inform you my little Kath-
erine goes on well; eats, sleeps and grows fat, so I hope she will not
feel the want of a wet nurse, which was what I could not procure for
her. Will you do me the favor to join with Mrs. Montagu, in ans-
wering for the little stranger. I shall be happy further to cement
our friendship by this mark of it. I have already had her privately
baptized."
The Montagus and Gwillims were cousins. Mrs. Simcoe evidently
wished both Mrs. Montagu and Mrs. Hunt to "answer" or act as god-
mothers for the little Katherine.
The record in the Dunkeswell Parish register is undoubtedly
incorrect as regards the place of birth, age and date of burial of the
child. It was probably inserted by Mrs. Hunt, who apparently
forgot that Mrs. Simcoe was in Niagara at the time the child was
born.
A small headstone of marble was sent from Honiton about 1795,
before the Governor left Upper Canada, and placed at the head of
the grave, but was removed by persons unknown, prior to 1850, for
it was not standing at that date.
Mon. Feb. 4th The Governor set off from hence in a sleigh, with
six officers and twenty soldiers, for the Mohawk village on the Grand
River (near Brantford), where Capt. Brant and twenty Indians are to
join him and guide him by the La Tranche river to Detroit, no Europeans
having gone that track, and the Indians are to carry provisions.
The Governor wore a fur cap, tippet and gloves and moccasins, but no
great-coat. His servant carried two blankets and linen. The other gentle-
men carried their blankets in a pack on their backs.
Fri. 8th I draw maps, write, read and work so much that the days
do not seem long, though I am alone. I am so persuaded that the journey
will be of service to the Governor's health that I rejoice he has under-
taken it. This evening I received some letters from England, brought
from Montreal by Indians, who hung the packet so near their fire that the
edges of the letters were burnt and the dates illegible. I received a letter
from the Governor, who had proceeded forty miles and had a pleasant
journey, but it now rains very much, which I fear will spoil the roads.
Tues. 12th I heard of the Governor's safe arrival at the Mohawk
village the third day after he left this place. He was much pleased with
seeing their church and hearing their women sing psalms. The Indian
Women have remarkably sweet voices.
The following letter, found in the MSS. at Wolford, was written
in February 1793, by Mrs. Simcoe to Mrs. Hunt. It is appropriate
148
A LETTER TO WOLFORD
to insert it in the diary at this date, for what it contains might well
have been written in the diary :
"Navy Hall, Feby., 1793. My Dear Mrs. Hunt: Expecting an express
soon from Quebec, I prepare my letters beforehand, that they may be
ready. I have the pleasure to inform you my little Katherine goes on
vastly well, eats, sleeps and grows fat, so I hope she will not feel the
want of a wet nurse, which was what I could not procure for her. Will
you do me the favour to join with Mrs. Montagu in answering for the
little stranger. I shall be happy further to cement our friendship by this
mark of it. I have already had her privately baptized. I long for the
arrival of the express, as it is some time since I have heard from Eng-
land. The accounts I have received from every correspondent of the
great improvement of the little girls under your tuition is a very great
happiness to me, the greatest that can be next to being an eye-witness of
it. The whole winter has been like an exceeding fine, dry autumn in
England; the climate is delightful and the country plentiful, and a
pleasant society within a certain circle; in short, we have nothing to
complain of but not seeing the children and the absence of some friends.
Coll. Simcoe is gone to Detroit, on foot the greatest part of the way, a
journey of about 400 miles, but as I am convinced the exercise and air
will do his health and spirits great good I rejoice in his absence, though
it will be a month or six weeks; he has five officers as companions, a
dozen soldiers and twenty Indians with him as guides. As it is a service
of no danger, and I think will afford him amusement, I am quite easy
about it, and have so much writing, drawing, arranging papers and work-
ing to do that the days pass very quick; besides, I have now and then
card parties here and at the Chief Justice's, for I am become a great whist
player. Francis is the most engaging, pretty child you ever saw at his
age; he is at present very handsome. Pray give my love to Miss Hunt;
tell her there are as many feathers, flowers and gauze dresses at our balls
(which are every fortnight) as at a Honiton assembly, and seldom less
than eighteen couples. I have not attended them because I was, the
greatest part of the winter, in daily expectation of being confined. 1 have
taken the canvas house we brought from England for my own apartment;
it makes two very comfortable and remarkably warm private rooms; it
is boarded outside to prevent snow lying on it. The comfort I derived
from these apartments was extremely great when I lay in, because, being
in a manner separate from the rest of the house, it was so very quiet.
The greatest inconvenience in this country is want of servants, which are
not to be got. The worst of people do you a favour if they merely wash
dishes for twenty shillings a month. The sergeant's wife I took with me
I am happy to keep in my house, for she is a very steady person, remark-
ably fond of the children and attentive to them, and a good worker, and
Joseph makes himself very useful.
" Mr. Scadding seems very well satisfied with his sixty pounds a year
as clerk, and sometimes has the amusement of shooting; he looks as rosy
as ever, though he leads so much more sedentary a life. Adieu, my dear
Madam. Believe me, very sincerely yours,
" E. P. SIMCOE.
" To Mrs. Hunt,
"Wolford Lodge,
" Honiton, Devonshire."
Sun. 17th I heard that the Governor was well and within four days
of Detroit. I went to dine with some ladies of the Queen's Rangers at the
Landing, where the Rangers are quartered in huts. The Governor has
had a hut built for himself, and we have hung up the tapestry in it
which came from Stowe (the seat of the Marquis of Buckingham, Eng-
land), which makes the room very comfortable. I slept here.
151
DIAKY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Mon. 18'th Mrs. Hamilton drank tea with me. Mrs. MeGill, wife of
the commissary, Capt. John McGill, and Miss Crookshank, her sister, are
pleasant women from New York. I gave a dance this evening. There
were above ten couples.
NOTE. The allusion to the two ladies as being
from New York arose from the fact that they
were sisters of the Honorable George Crook-
shank, whose wife was Miss Sarah Susannah
Lambert of New York. The ladies had been
visiting in the United States. Honorable George
Crookshank, was Deputy Commissary-General
during the War of 1812, and a member of
the old Legislative Council of Upper Canada.
His daughter, who resides on Peter Street,
'Toronto, is the widow of the late Mr. Stephen
He ward. Miss (Rachel) Crooksfaank referred to
by Mrs. Simcoe, afterwards became the second
Miss CEOOKSHANK. ^ of Dr Jflmes MacaulaVj
Tues. 19th The bugle horns sound delightfully here; they echo among
the rocks so finely. I called on Mrs. Hamilton on my way to Navy Hall,
and brought Miss Butler, sister of Coll. Butler, home with me.
NOTE. There is doubt as to the location of Butler's Barracks.
In the opinion of Miss Janet Carnochan, President of the Niagara
Historical Society, Butler's Barracks were on the hill north of Navy
Hall, not where the present Butler's Barracks are. Buttons from
the uniform of Butler's Rangers have been found on the hill north
of Navy Hall.
Wed. 20th I dined at the Chief Justice's (Osgoode), who had a large
party to meet me. I played seven rubbers at whist.
Thur. 21st I received a letter from the Governor, dated Upper Dela-
ware village, on the La Tranche (now Delaware, Ont.). He had a
pleasant journey, passed a fine open country, without swamps. The La
Tranche, at 150 miles above its mouth, is as wide as the Thames is at
Reading (capital of Berkshire, England).
Mon. 25th I had company at dinner and cards in the evening.
Wed. 27th The coldest day we have had this winter. The ther-
mometer stood at 55 deg. at the Chief Justice's, though the stove was
almost red hot.
Fri. Mar. 1st A lady dined with me, and we played at whist in the
evening with the Chief Justice.
Fri. 8th Mr. McGill dined with us, A snowstorm the whole day,
drifted by a high wind; the river so full of ice that it appeared immovable
for some hours.
Sat. 9th A fine, clear day; the river full of ice. Towards two o'clock
it separated and floated down, and a boat came over from the garrison.
Sun. Mar. 10th The Governor and Mr. D. W. Smith returned. It is
exactly five weeks since he left this place. He is remarkably well, and not
fatigued. He went a part of the way in sleighs, but walked the greater
distance. The Journal does not contain many incidents. The map which
accompanies it shows the various creeks they passed, or fallen trees,
which require some care and dexterity to cross. His Excellency's leaving
Detroit under a salute from all His Majesty's ships lying there is men-
tioned, 'as also that "His Excellency ordered prayers to be read in the
THE PROPOSED PROVINCIAL CAPITAL
woods on Sunday, and forty people attended. His Excellency and suite
eat raccoons and porcupines, which were good, the latter like pork." The
porcupine's quills stuck into Jack Sharp's neck (a Newfoundland dog),
and they were very difficult to extract and made him ill for many days.
The Governor rose early on the march and walked till five o'clock.
A party of the Indians went on an hour before, to cut down wood for a fire
and make huts of trees, which they cover with bark so dexterously that no
rain can penetrate, and this they do very expeditiously; when the Governor
came to the spot the Indians had fixed upon the lodge for the night, the
provisions were cooked; after supper the officers sung "God Save the
King," and went to sleep with their feet close to an immense fire, which
was kept up all night. The Governor found his expectations perfectly
realized as to the goodness of the country on the banks of La Tranche,
and is confirmed in his opinion that the fork of the river is the most
proper site for the capital of the country, to be called New London
(London, Ont.), on a fine, dry plain without underwood, but abounding
in good oak trees. A spring of real petroleum was discovered on the
march by its offensive smell.
NOTE. The section of country referred to is near "Moravian
Town," a little east of which settlement was a petroleum spring.
The Moravian village is in the Moravian Reserve, Township of Or-
ford in the County of Kent, on the direct route from Niagara or
York (Toronto) to London and Detroit. It lies between Bothwell
and Thamesville and is a few miles east of the Grand Trunk Railroad.
There were no white settlers in the township till after 1817, but
there was a settlement of Delaware Indians from about 1792, in a
place called "New Fairfield," since better known as "Moravian Town,"
in the north of the township. Old Moraviantown was in the township
of Zone, Kent County, but the present place known as Moraviantown
is as stated, in Orford, across the river Thames, and opposite to old
Moraviantown. It is five miles from the town of Bothwell and is
about the same distance from Thamesville and Highgate.
The petroleum spring referred to by Mrs. Simcoe was, no doubt,
a reality, as the crude oil or petroleum was obtained a century ago
from the surface of the water of the river Thames in several places
along the river in this neighborhood. Mr. W. R. Hickey of Bothwell,
who so kindly furnished me with this information, states that settlers
seventy years ago used to gather the petroleum from the surface of
the water and sell it as a medicine. There were several of these
springs or exudations within the range of three miles east of where
old Moraviantown stood. When the first oil excitement in Bothwell,
about 1865-6, was at its height, a refinery was in operation on the
north bank of the river. The first well that started the oil boom
in 1865 was drilled about five miles east of the site of old Moravian-
town, just at the boundary line between the counties of Kent and
Middlesex, near the location of the Longwoods Road, or London
Road, as it used to be called.
The Delaware Indians were the principal remnant of the once
flourishing congregation of the Moravians or United Brethren
Church of the United States, who were compelled in 1792 to seek
an asylum in Canada, where they were favorably received by the
155
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
provincial authorities and were permitted to settle on the River
la Tranche (Thames). By an Order-in-Council dated the 19th of
July, 1793, fifty thousand acres of land bordering on the river were
granted for their use. They built twenty-nine houses and huts and
a chapel wherein ministered the German missionary supported by the
Moravian Society. The population was a hundred and sixty-seven
Indians of the Delaware and Iroquois nations. By a second Order-
in-Council issued 26th February, 1795, a survey of the original grant
was made and the land appropriated to the trustees of the "Moravian
Society" to be reserved forever to the Society, in trust, for the sole use
of their Indian converts. The first settlement was made on the north
side of the river Thames.
The site of old Moraviantown is now occupied by cultivated farms,
and there are on the north side of the river a few graves, where the
early Indians had their bury ing-ground.
The ground is historic, for a battle was fought there on the 5th
of October, 1813, between the British and Indian forces under Gen-
eral Procter and the celebrated Indian chief, Tecumseh, and the
American army under General Harrison. Tecumseh was killed
after a desperate resistance, and the Indian village was burned by
the invaders.
Across the lot where the graves are is a small ravine leading
to the river, and old residents say that it was there or near there that
Tecumseh fell.
After the battle the Indians removed to the opposite side of the
river. In 1836 these Indians were induced to surrender a large'
portion of their land, about six miles square, for an annuity of one
hundred and fifty pounds.
This second letter found in the MSS. at Wolford is also written
to Mrs. Hunt. It is a motherly letter showing a great regard for
Mrs. Hunt and deep affection for the children under her charge at
Wolford. It reads :
"Navy Hall, March 13th, 1793. My Dear Mrs. Hunt: The contents
of your last letters, informing me of Mrs. Graves's quitting Wolford, was
not any great surprise to me, as I thought such an event not improbable.
Be assured, my dear Madam, that the confidence we repose in your care
and attention to our children makes us perfectly indifferent to any expense
that must necessarily be incurred by your keeping house for them. The
benefit they will receive from the good and religious principles you will
instil into their minds will be cheaply purchased, and pray do not be
uneasy at any trifling expense which you deem proper to be incurred.
Coll. Simcoe desired Mr. Flood to get a second-hand carriage for yours and
their accommodation. We are very anxious that they should stay at
Wolford. I should never be satisfied about their health were they at
Bath, as I have a great prepossession against that place for children. I hope
with a carriage (and be as liberal of fires as possible) that you and Miss
Hunt will reconcile yourselves to Wolford, as we should not be happy to
have the children removed. It is a great pleasure to me to have them
brought up so near Miss Burgess, that they may get the habitude, by
seeing her often, of acquiring a great regard for a friend to whom I am
so much attached, and I think it much better as you have determined it,
156
SPOET AT NIAGAKA IX 1793
to be at Wolford than to encumber her house with so many children,
though the offer was extremely kind of her.
" As for Mrs. Graves' desire of having Eliza on a visit, we cannot
refuse it; but it is Coll. Simcoe's and my absolute desire that she does
not stay above a month or six weeks in these annual visits, because we
should be sorry the child's education should be stopped, or that she should
be longer separated from her sisters, which reasons alone determined us to
deprive ourselves of her company. Besides, I think the child has too
great a tendency to weak lungs to make it at all proper for her to be longer
there, was there no other reason. The other children, of course, Mrs. G.
would not wish to be troubled with; if she did, the same system should
prevail as with regard to Eliza.
" Pray give my love to Miss Hunt; tell her I should have answered
her letter, but I send this by a pacquet as the quickest conveyance to you,
and letters sent by pacquets cost such sums of money that I will not
write to her till I send to Mr. Burgess. They are rather longer going
through the Secretary of State's office, but without there is anything
material to be speedily answered it is the best way to write, on account of
the expense.
" Give my kindest love to the children. Tell them the same reason
and being greatly pressed for time (as this is an unexpected opportunity)
hinders my writing to them, and thanking Charlotte for her very pretty
ruffles, which I value much, and Harriett for her letter. Tell Eliza there
are no guava trees here. The country is not hot enough, but her father
thanks her for her thinking of it. Let them know that their father is
just returned from Detroit; looks remarkably well in health, and is grown
really fatter, though he has performed a journey of six hundred miles
in exactly five weeks, and walked a great part of the way. I will write
them a further account by the first opportunity of sending to Mr. Burgess.
" I enter exactly into what Miss Hunt's and your feelings have been,
because I have known and experienced enough of these kind of proceed-
ings.
" I am sure Miss Hunt's instructions are much better than Mr. Pigot's
few visits. In short, we are quite happy in every account I hear of your
proceedings with respect to the children, and are only anxious that every-
thing should go on comfortably to yourself and Miss Hunt. Mr. Flood
will be of any assistance in his power. Believe me to be, my dear Mrs.
Hunt, with great regard and confidence in your friendship,
"Very sincerely yours,
" E. SIMCOE.
" Coll. Simcoe desires his best compliments. Eliza or Charlotte have
not sent me any drawing lately. 1 hope they continue to like drawing;
she writes vastly even on one line. I wish I was as good an arithmetician
as you have taught her to be. I think you were quite right to discharge
a gardener that must be a useless expense. I am glad Melly is still with
you; I hope she continues to merit your good opinion, for I always liked
her much.
" To Mrs. Hunt,
" Wolford Lodge, near Honiton,
" Devonshire, England."
Wed. 13th Coll. Simcoe has gout in his hand.
Sat. 16th Coll. Simcoe so much better as to walk on the sands. The
thermometer 72 in the shade. There are thousands of duck fly up the
river daily. They are called cawines, a species of wild duck. They have
a fishy taste and are never eaten; their down appears to me exactly the
same as that of the eider duck. I lately dreamt of being fired at by small
shot in passing through a wood, and have since had quite a horror of the
sound of a musquet or anything military.
157
DIARY OF MBS. SIMCOE
I have been much amused by reading Watson (Richard Watson,
Trinity College, Cambridge) on chemistry, in which there is an account
of the making of an artificial volcano that I think would please you, an
experiment of putting diamonds and rubies in separate vessels and expos-
ing them to a violent fire the diamonds were dissipated and the rubies
unchanged in weight or colour.
Mon. April 1st Rode to Queenstown, where we intend to reside a
fortnight. Mr. Grey and Mr. Talbot are going to New York.
Tues. 2nd Very warm weather.
Wed. 3rd The weather extremely warm, but we find the log huts cool
from the thickness of the timber with which they are built. We do not
keep house here (Queenstown). As there are not offices belonging to our
rooms we did not bring many servants, but dine at the mess. Imme-
diately after I have dined I rise from the table, one of the officers attends
me home, and the band plays on the parade before the house until six
o'clock. The music adds cheerfulness to this retired spot, and we feel
much indebted to the Marquis of Buckingham for the number of instru-
ments he presented to the regiment. The bugles sound at five every
morning, and Coll. Simcoe goes out with the troops and returns to break-
fast at nine.
Fri. 5th Fahrenheit ther. 78 deg. in the shade, 112 deg. in the sun
to-day at Navy Hall. " Trojan " has been so ill, in consequence of a blow
he received on his head since we left Navy Hall, that the servants sup-
posed him to be mad and shot him, which we regret most excessively, not
believing he could be mad, as he ran into the water a short time before
he was killed. I gave a dance this evening. A soldier was pointed out to
me by the name of Swambergh, a Swede who had distinguished himself in
a battle where the King of Sweden was present; this incident and the
admiration I know you feel for Swedes caused me to observe something
peculiarly fine in his countenance, when, on further enquiry, it proved
that the man shewn was not Swambergh, but a worthless thief so much
for my skill in physiognomy.
Sat. 6th I rode a pleasant horse of Mr. Mayne's to Navy Hall;
returned here in the evening, but not being expected, found a cold, wet
room and spent an uncomfortable evening. St. Denis, of the 5th, caught
yesterday, at Niagara, 500 whitefish and 40 sturgeon; this is common
sturgeon, one nearly 6 ft. long.
NOTE. Captain William Mayne belonged to the Queen's Bangers.
He returned to England in 1797.
Sun. 7th We dined with Mrs. Hamilton, wife of Mr. Robert Hamilton,
and walked in the evening where I observed some trees on fire; the
flames, in part concealed, appeared like stars, and had a beautiful effect.
Mon. 8th A very warm day. I rode to the Falls; there are still heaps
of ice below them, but it had not a brilliant or fine appearance, as I had
expected to see.
Tues. 9th Mrs. Richardson breakfasted with me. Very wet weather.
We played at chess all the day.
Wed. 10th Very cold and some snow. We drove to Navy Hall and
slept there.
Thur. llth A very fine day. Went to Queenstown; walked by the
river half a mile to a beautiful spot among the rocks. The rapid, clear
water, with a bright tinge of green from the reflection of the high banks
covered with trees, had a fine effect, and we determined that it would be a
delightful spot to have a cold dinner at, and the music would sound well
among the rocks.
Sat. 13th Returned to dinner at Navy Hall. Jacob and Aron
(Mohawks) came express from Detroit in eight days; they walked 56
miles this day.
158
FIRST PAPER IIS T THE PROVINCE
Mon. 15th I dined at the Fort, and caught cold by crossing the
water this very cold day. In a newspaper from the States was the para-
graph: "His Serene Highness of Upper Canada gives great encourage-
ment to settlers."
The " Caldwell " sloop, an armed vessel of the Provincial Government,
arrived at Kingston from home on the 6th April; the day before the
harbour had been so full of ice that she could not have got in. An Indian
who speaks English, being asked at what hour he arrived, pointed to the
west and said, " when the clock was there." It reminded me of a line in
Spencer, " The clock in Jones high house."
Thur. 18th A newspaper is published here, called the " Upper Canada
Gazette or American Oracle" (first issue April 18th, 1793). As yet it is
filled with proclamations and advertisements. The only printer to be
met with was a Frenchman named Louis Roy, and he cannot write good
English. A surveyor went to the first forks of the La Tranche, and gives
the most favourable account of the land.
NOTE. Governor Simcoe's Proclamation of July 16th, 1792,
which would fain have converted La Grande Riviere into "The Ouse,"
permanently transformed La Tranche into the Thames.
Fri. 19th Capt. JEness Shaw is arrived, with his wife and seven
children, from Oswego, where he met his family and spent the winter
with them. The south shore of Lake Ontario being uninhabited, from
Oswego they brought with them an Indian to build huts and shoot part-
ridges and ducks. They came the whole way in a boat. The only alarm
they met with was from trees falling near their hut one night. The
children had made fires for diversion too near large trees, without con-
sidering which way the wind might blow them down, and the hut was in
danger from their fall.
Tues. 23rd I thought of you (Mrs. Hunt) as by agreement. I rode
to the whirlpool, a very grand scene half way between Queenstown and
the Falls, where the current is so strong that eddies are formed in which
hewn timber trees are carried down the Falls, from a saw mill, upright.
Vast rocks surround this bend of the river, and they are covered with
pine and hemlock spruce; some cascades among the rocks add to the wild
appearance. These scenes have afforded me so much delight that 1 class
these days with those in which I remember to have felt the greatest
pleasure from fine objects, whether of art or nature, as at Blenheim (seat
of the Duke of Marlborough), the "Valley of Rocks," near Lynmouth and
Lynton, in North Devon. I met with some pretty flowers and a beautiful
milliped. I gave a hall this evening. Some small tortoises, cut up and
dressed like oysters in scollop shells, were very good at supper.
Wed. 24th I rode to the whirlpool with Mr. Pilkington (Robert
Pilkington, lieutenant in the Royal Engineers). As we came back it
was almost dark, and the fires the Indians had made by the waterside for
the purpose of spearing fish had a picturesque appearance among the
rocks. The light attracts the fish, and the Indians are very expert in
spearing them.
Fri. 26th A very wet night. It rained into the huts, but I found one
corner of the room dry, and there I placed my bed. Capt. Shaw has given
me a tea-chest in bird's-eye maple. It is a beautiful wood, the colour of
satinwood. The tea-chest was made at New Brunswick. Capt. Shaw
mentioned many instances of persons settled in New Brunswick who,
having marry'd women from the United States, were persuaded by them
to quit the country, as they would not live without the apples and peaches
they had been used to at New York. The Americans are particularly
fond of fruit. The Indians bring us cranberries in spring and autumn
which are as large as cherries and as good; the best grow under water.
11 161
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
They also supply us with chestnuts, which they roast in a manner that
makes them particularly good.
Mon. 29th Rode before breakfast. At Navy Hall, the " Onondaga "
arrived from Kingston in 22 hours. There is a large stone house, built
by the French, in the Fort at Niagara, and from thence it is said to
take its name, as Niagara, in the Indian language, signifies " great houge."
Pray take notice we call it " Niagara."
NOTE. This house is a large stone building which stands within
the precincts of the American Fort, and was built by the French
prior to 1750 by order of Governor Vaudreuil. The Fort and its
defences were completed by General Pouchot, in 1759. The British
afterwards added a storey with, in the opinion of Mr. Peter A.
" THE CASTLE/' FORT NIAGARA, N.Y.
(From a Sketch sent to England about 1830 and copied by Mrs. Simcoe.)
Porter, a timbered roof. During the War of 1812 the Americans
are said to have torn it off, made a flat roof, with stone walls pro-
jecting a foot or so above it, and to have mounted a cannon on the
roof. After the war they evidently restored the timbered roof, and
the present cupola was put on in 1823. As it is not supposed the
British ever used any brick at the Fort, the erection of the brick
chimneys is fixed at a date subsequent to the War of 1812.
The origin of the name Niagara is disputed. Some say that
the word is of Indian origin, meaning "thunder of water," and
others derive it from Onghiara, the name of the old Indian village
near the Falls.
Tues. May 2nd Coll. Simcoe set off, accompanied by seven officers, to
go to Toronto. He means to go round by the head of the lake in a batteau.
Wed. 3rd I borrowed Sir Joshua Reynolds' " Discourses." They
amuse me very much.
162
GOVERNOR'S FIRST VISIT TO TORONTO
NOTE. Mrs. Simcoe refers to "Discourses Delivered to the Stu-
dents of the Royal Academy" by Sir Joshua Reynolds, Knight, with
introduction and notes by Roger Fry.
Fri. 5th A very cold day.
Tues. 9th I am feverish and ill. I caught cold by sitting late with
the windows open after a very hot day, and the dew falls here most
heavily.
Sat. 13th Coll. Simcoe returned from Toronto, and speaks in praise
of the harbour, and a fine spot near it covered with large oaks, which he
intends to fix upon as a site for a town. I am going to send you some
beautiful butterflies.
NOTE. This was the Governor's first visit to the site of Toronto.
The "fine spot" was on the bay front, east of the present George Street
as far as Berkeley Street. The lower part of the present Berkeley
Street, from the present King south to Palace (Front Street), was
later called Parliament Street, as it led to the Legislative Buildings.
Berkeley Street, north of King, was not opened until some years later.
According to the plan made by Aitkin in 1793, the original town
of York was divided into ten blocks, five south and five north of
King Street, the west boundary being George Street, the east Parlia-
ment (Berkeley), the north Duke Street, and south Palace (Front
Street). Although the streets were not named in 1793, the plan shows
the location of the present George, Frederick, Sherbourne (Caroline),
Princes, Ontario, and Berkeley (the first "Parliament" Street) all
running from the south to the north, and Palace (Front Street), King
and Duke, all running from the west to the east.
The area covered by the Aitkin plan was not extensive. The
number of feet from the south side of Palace (Front Street) at the
east side of George Street to the north side of Duke Street was 740
feet. From the west side of George to the east side of Parliament the
measurement was 1770. When the streets were laid out on this plan
Front was known as King and in a later plan as Palace Street. The
modern King was Duke Street, and the modern Duke, Duchess Street.
These street names were intended as compliments to King George III.,
and the Duke and Duchess of York. George Street was named after
the Prince of Wales, Frederick after the Duke of York himself, Caro-
line in honor of the niece of George III., who, in 1795, married her
cousin the Prince of Wales, afterwards George IV. Princes Street
commemorated collectively the male members of the Royal Family,
the Dukes of Clarence, Kent, Cumberland, Sussex and Cambridge.
It will be noted that the correct orthography of the present Princess
Street is "Princes" Street.
163
CHAPTEE XII.
AMERICAN COMMISSIONERS GUESTS AT NAVY HALL.
The life at Navy Hall was enlivened by many pleasant incidents
during the years of its occupancy by Governor Simcoe and his wife.
Prominent people from Britain touring the western continent who
brought letters of introduction, always had a generous welcome and
a pleasant time as long as they occupied the guest chambers of that
primitive residence, the pioneer Government House. Americans
in official positions who visited Niagara ofttimes expressed their
gratification with the kindly reception accorded them by the Governor
and his wife.
It is true that the Governor had, to a greater or less extent, his
likes and dislikes, and sometimes was rather frank in expressing his
opinions, but he never forgot the requirements of his official position.
So that whatever the Governor's sentiments might be regarding the
United States and its Government, all guests from the Republic
were made to feel as much at home as if they were seated at their
own fireside. Accordingly the best of treatment was accorded the
American Commissioners who came to Niagara to discuss the Indian
boundary question with Governor Simcoe and a deputation of fifty
Indians headed by Brant. The negotiations at Navy Hall and
subsequently at Miami came to naught, as the redskins insisted that
the settlers on their side of the Ohio Eiver should be evicted.
Sun. 14th Three commissioners, who are appointed by the United
States to treat with the Indians at Sandusky, Ohio, are arrived here, and
Intend to stay at our house until
they receive further orders from
Philadelphia. Mr. John Randolph,
a political friend of President
Jefferson, is a Virginian. Ben-
jamin Lincoln and Coll. Timothy
Pickering are both of Massachu-
setts, New England. Coll. Simcoe
calls the latter my cousin; his
ancestor left England in Charles
Ist's reign, and this gentleman
really bears great resemblance to
the picture Mr. Gwillim (a rela-
tive of Mrs. Simcoe) has of Sir
Gilbert Pickering.
If the proffered mediation of
England with respect to this
treaty of Sandusky had been
accepted by the States, and Washington had gone thither, Gov. Simcoe
would have gone to meet him. I am not sorry that the circumstance
is avoided.
164
GENERAL LINCOLN.
JOHN RANDOLPH.
THE INDIAN BOUNDARY QUESTION
NOTE. John Randolph of Roanoke, an American orator, was
born in Virginia in 1773. He claimed to be a descendant of Poca-
hontas, the Indian princess. He studied for short periods at Prince-
ton and Columbia College. In 1799 he was elected to Congress and
re-elected many times. He gained a high reputation as a debater.
He became estranged from Jefferson about 1806 and tried to defeat
the election of Madison and opposed the War of 1812. He was de-
feated at the election in 1813, but was again elected in 1815. He was
a man of genius and was distinguished for his ready wit, which, joined
to his mastery of the weapons of sarcasm and invective, rendered him
a formidable opponent in debate.
General Benjamin Lincoln was born in Massachusetts in 1733.
He was originally a farmer. He was a member of the Provincial
Congress assembled in 1775 at Cambridge and Watertown and one
of the secretaries of that body, and also a member of the committee
of correspondence appointed to communicate with the several towns
in Massachusetts and with other colonies upon the circumstances of
the time. In 1776 he was appointed a major-general of militia and
joined the army of Washington in 1777. He was appointed to the
chief command of the Southern department about September, 1778,
and defended Charleston against Prevost in 1779. Later Lincoln was
besieged by Sir Henry Clinton in that place and compelled to
surrender. In October, 1781, he became Secretary of War and retired
in 1784. He was elected Lieutenant-Governor of Massachusetts in
1787 by the Federalists. He died in 1810.
Timothy Pickering, an American statesman, was
born in Massachusetts in July, 1745. He graduated
at Harvard in 1763 and became Judge of the Com-
mon Pleas in 1775. He joined the army of Wash-
ington in 1776 and took part in the battles of
Brandywine and Germantown in October, 1777.
He was appointed Postmaster-General of the
United States by Washington in 1791 and Secre-
tary of War in 1794. From 1814-1817 he was a
member of the national House of Representatives.
There are no entries in the diary between Sun-
day, May 14th, and June 14th, for between these
dates Mrs. Simcoe was on a visit to Fort Niagara TIMOTHY PICKERING.
and apparently did not continue her diary during
that period. But to revert to the Commissioners' stay at Navy Hall
the 4th of June was a gala day at Niagara, for the second session
of the Legislature was in progress, and the day was the anniversary
of the birth of His Majesty the King.
The Upper Canada Gazette in its issue for the second week in
June (1793) says: "On Tuesday last, the fourth of June, being
an anniversary of His Majesty's birthday, His Excellency the Lieu-
tenant-Governor held a levee at Navy Hall. At one the troops in
garrison and at Queenstown fired three volleys. The field pieces above
165
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Navy Hall under the direction of the Royal Artillery, and the guns
at the garrison, fired a royal salute. In the evening His Excellency
gave a ball and elegant supper in the Council Chamber, which was
most numerously attended."
Of this ball and supper another notice is extant. The three dis-
tinguished Americans, General Lincoln, Colonel Pickering and Mr.
Randolph, were amongst the guests at the ball and supper. General
Lincoln in his private journal, since printed in the Massachusetts
Historical Collections, Vol. V., 3rd Series, makes the following note
of the entertainment:
June 4th " The King's birthday. At eleven o'clock the governor
had a levee at his house, at which the officers of government, the mem-
bers of the legislature, the officers of the army, and a number of
strangers attended. After some time the governor came in, preceded
by two of his family. He walked up to the head of the hall and
began a conversation with those standing in that part of the hall, and
went around to the whole, and I believe spoke with every person
present. This was soon over and we all retired. At one o'clock
there was firing from the troops, the battery and from the ship in the
harbor. In the evening there was quite a splendid ball, about twenty
well-dressed and handsome ladies, and about three times that number
of gentlemen present. They danced from seven o'clock till eleven,
when supper was announced and served in very pretty ta/te. The
music and dancing were good, and everything was conducted with
propriety. What excited the best feelings of my htirt was the ease
and affection with which the ladies met each other, although there
were a number present whose mothers sprang from the aborigines of
the country. They appeared as well dressed as the co^Dany in
general, and intermixed with them in a measure which /inced at
;once the dignity of their own minds, and the good sense of the others.
These ladies possessed great ingenuity and industry, and have great
merit; for the education they have acquired is owing principally to
their own industry, as their father, Sir William Johnson, was dead
and the mother retained the manners and dress of her tribe. Governor
Simcoe is exceedingly attentive in these public assemblies, and makes
it his study to reconcile the inhabitants, who have tasted the pleasure
of society, to their present situation in an infant province. He
intends the next winter to have concerts and assemblies very fre-
quently. Hereby he at once evinces a regard to the happiness of the
people and his knowledge of the world; for while the people are
allured to become settlers in this country from the richness of the
soil and the clemency of the seasons, it is important to make their
situation as flattering as possible."
The American guests were evidently impressed with the function,
and the tribute they paid to the beauty of the Canadian ladies who
were present could 'not fail to please the Governor, who some time
later had the pleasure of reading this extract from the private journal
of the gallant General who had been his guest.
166
SIR WILLIAM JOHNSON, BART.
SIB WM JOHNSON.
LADY JOHNSON.
The compliments paid to the daughters of Sir William Johnson
were well deserved. Their mother, with whom Sir William had con-
tracted an Indian marriage, was Mary Brant, or, as she was
familiarly known, "Miss Molly," sister of Chief Joseph Brant.
Sir William Johnson, Bart., was the eldest son of Chris-
topher Johnson, of Warrentown, County Down, Ireland. His mother
was Anne Warren, sister of the brothers Oliver and Peter Warren,
whose names are identified with the naval glory of England. Sir
William was born in 1715 and came to America in 1738. He settled
on the banks of the Mohawk.
About 1740, he married
Catherine Weisenberg and had
one son, afterwards Sir John
Johnson, and two daughters,
Mary and Nancy. Mary mar-
ried Colonel Guy Johnson,
nephew of Sir William, and
Nancy (Ann) married Colonel
Daniel Glaus.
In 1756 Sir William
exerted himself to revive the
waning friendship of the
Mohawks towards the British
as against the French. He
succeeded, became their captain, and was called Warraghiyagey,
signifying "Superintendent of Affairs." The Indian tribes then
united with Johnson at their head. There is no trace of when he
attained the rank of colonel, but it must have been about 1746. In
a letter /ritten in that year, Governor Clinton addresses him as
"Colonel William Johnson at Albany." In November of 1747 he
had command of the northern frontier of New York. His manage-
ment of the Indian Department was most favorably recognized by
the British Government.
In 1750 Colonel Johnson was appointed to a seat in His Majesty's
Council for the Province of New York, in the room of Philip Liv-
ingstone, deceased. This was the first step towards the prominent
and influential position he was destined to occupy in later years.
In 1755, during the war against the French, he was made a major-
general and was created a baronet in November of the same year.
In July, 1759, General Prideaux, while besieging Fort Niagara, was
killed by the bursting of a shell carelessly discharged by one of his
own gunners, and Sir William Johnson took command. The fort
was attacked, and after a terrific siege and the defeat of the French
General D'Aubry, who was hastening to the relief of Niagara, General
Pouchot surrendered and the flag of Britain was raised over its
walls. General Prideaux was buried in the chapel of the fort. "I
was the chief mourner," writes Sir William Johnson in his private
diary. The jurisdiction of Sir Willam extended over all the tribes
167
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
of the northern colonies. He died in July, 1774, and was suc-
ceeded by his son, Sir John, who had been knighted during his
father's lifetime. The third baronet was Sir
Adam Gordon Johnson, the eldest surviving son
of Sir John. Sir Adam Gordon dying without
issue, Sir William George Johnson became fourth
baronet, and he was succeeded by his nephew, the
present holder of the title, Sir Edward Gordon
Johnson, of Montreal.
Johnstown, in Fulton County, New York,
originally (1798) named Caughnawaga, was
founded by Sir William Johnson, who resided
there during the later period of his life. Sir
William erected in 1764 a fine mansion house
about a mile from and on ground gently elevated
SIR JOHN JOHNSON, above the village of Johnstown. The hall itself
is built of wood, but the buildings or wings on
each side are of stone, pierced with loopholes for musketry. When
Sir William occupied these buildings he had them surrounded by
a stone breastwork. While in possession of the Johnson family this
was a place of resort for the Sachems of the Six Nations, and all
the Mohawks repaired thither to receive their presents from the
British Government.
Sir William Johnson's sons-in-law were both interested in the
Indians. In 1761 Colonel Guy Johnson was appointed one of the
Deputy Superintendents of the Indian Department, and in 1774,
shortly before his death, Sir William wrote the King asking that
Colonel Guy be allowed to succeed him as
Superintendent. The request was granted,
Colonel Daniel Glaus becoming his brother-
in-law's Deputy. The commission held by
Sir William came from the colony of New
York and the other colonies which were
leagued together against the Indians. After
the Revolutionary War, however, this com-
mission held by Colonel Guy as Sir William's
successor was dropped, and Sir John John-
son became Superintendent of Indian Affairs
in British North America.
Fri. 14th June I am just returned to Navy
Hall after spending a month with Mrs. Smith, COL. GUY JOHNSON.
wife of Lieut. Smith, of the 5th, at the Fort. The
cold I caught the 9th of May turned to dumb ague (that is, but little of
the cold fit and a continual fever). With this indisposition I found
myself extremely inconvenienced by the Commissioners' residence in our
small house, and I accepted Mrs. Smith's friendly invitation to visit her,
and her nursing and great attention to my health enabled me to recover as
soon as I have done. Commodore Grant, who commands the vessels on
Lake Erie, was staying at Major Smith's. The Queen's Rangers have
left the huts at Queenstown, and are encamped on the mountain above.
168
PROMINENT MEN IN PROVINCE
It is a fine, dry, healthy spot, and the tents look extremely pretty among
the large oaks which grow on the mountain.
NOTE. Honorable Alexander Grant, born 1734, was second son
of Patrick, seventh laird of Grant of Glenmoriston, Inverness-shire.
He served in the Royal Navy as a midshipman, and was with Amherst
in the Lake Champlain expedition in the Seven
Years' War. Later he was placed in command of
lake vessels from Niagara to Mackinaw, and was
known as Commodore Grant. He was a member
of the first Executive and Legislative Council,
and Administrator of Upper Canada from llth
September, 1805, to 24th August, 1806, during
the interval between Lieutenant-Governor Hunter
and Lieutenant-Governor Gore. In 1774 he mar-
ried Therese Barthe, by whom he had eleven
children one son, Colonel Grant of Brockville,
and ten daughters. His fifth daughter, Archange,
married Thomas Dickson of Queenston. His
sixth daughter, Phyllis, married Alexander Duff,
of Amherstburg. His seventh daughter, Isabelle, married Cap-
tain Gilkinson of Brantford, with issue, seven sons including
Archibald, County Court Judge, Picton, and Colonel Jasper of
Brantford. Nancy, the eighth daughter, married George Jacob,
of Kent County. The ninth daughter, Elizabeth, married James
Woods of Sandwich, two of their sons being the late Joseph
Woods, M.P. for Kent, and the late Judge R. S. Woods, of
Chatham. Another daughter, Jean Cameron, married William
Richardson of Brantford, and their daughter became the wife of the
late Henry Racey of Brantford, proprietor of the Brantford Expositor.
Grant's wife was a sister of the second wife of Colonel John Askin.
The Commodore's death took place in May, 1813, at his residence at
Grosse Point, called Grant Castle, on Lake St. Clair, which was
noted for the courtesy of its host and his open-handed hospitality.
Here Tecumseh and his warriors were frequent guests of the Commo-
dore, who was a man of commanding presence, a good officer and a
general favorite. There are many great-grandchildren and great-
great-grandchildren. A mural tablet to the memory of Grant was
erected by his grandson, the late Judge Woods of Chatham, in St.
John's Church, Sandwich.
Sun. 23rd Mr. Talbot went to Sandusky to deliver papers to Coll.
McKee.
NOTE. Colonel Alexander McKee, who was Indian Agent at
Pittsburg before the Revolutionary War, was imprisoned at that
place during the outbreak by the Revolutionists. He escaped, how-
ever, and later became Deputy Superintendent-General of Indian
Affairs, the Superintendent-General being Sir John Johnson. Colonel
McKee was a Justice of the Court of Common Pleas at Detroit. He
died on 14th January, 1799. His son, Thomas Alexander McKee
171
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
(known as Colonel Thomas or Colonel Alexander McKee), who mar-
ried Therese Askin, daughter of Colonel John Askin, was one of the
members for Kent in the Second Legislature of Upper Canada, 1796-
1800, and one of the members for Essex in the third Legislature.
It is a coincidence that in the Legislature of Ontario from 1894-
1902, William Johnson McKee of Windsor, his great-grandson, and
consequently great-great-grandson of Colonel Alexander McKee,
represented the county of Essex.
Wed. 26th The Indian Commissioners went to Fort Brie. Coll. Pick-
ering gave me a receipt to make chowder of salmon, sea biscuit and pork;
it is stewed for twenty minutes.
Thurs. 27th We dined alone for the first time since we left Quebec.
The Governor having no business to attend to, and the weather delightful,
we crossed the water, and drank tea on a pretty green bank, from which
there is a good view of Navy Hall, and we enjoyed this half-holiday amaz-
ingly.
Fri. 28th We rode to Queenstown and slept there. The thermometer
was 86 to-day.
Sat. 29th Breakfasted in the camp and rode on to the Falls, seven
miles; dined there, and went to Burch's Mills, two miles above the (Falls.
We returned to tea in the camp, but the heat was so excessive we were
obliged to stop on the road and drink milk and water, and eat fruit at
Mrs. Tice's, wife of Lieut. Tice, of the Indian Department, who lived at
the Falls. The thermometer has been at 96 to-day. We slept in the hut,
but I determined in future to sleep on the mountain. I saw a stuffed
rattlesnake, which was killed near Queenstown in the act of swallowing
a black squirrel. The snake measured five feet six inches long, and had
seven rattles.
NOTE. John Burch had a saw and grist mill near the Falls on
lot 174, township No. 2, in the year 1786. In 1791 he was a member
of the Land Board and in 1795 was Justice of the Peace. In Lundy's
Lane Cemetery is an inscription "In Memory of John Burch, Esq.,
who departed this life March 7th, 1797, aged 55." His son, John
Burch, Jr., was Grand Secretary of the Provincial Grand Lodge
of Freemasons of Upper Canada at Niagara, 1817-1819.
Gilbert Tice came to Niagara in 1786, where he was a member
of the Land Board in 1791. He is given as Captain Gilbert Tice
in the list of United Empire Loyalists in the Indian Department,
with a wife and four children. He was a veteran of the French
War, and, under the patronage of Sir William Johnson, kept a large
inn at Johnstown, N. Y., before the Loyalist migration.
Sun. 30th Returned to Navy Hall in a boat the Commissioners left
here, which is a very good one, with an awning and green curtain. The
heat excessively great.
Tues, July 2nd Jacob Lewis and Aaron Hill, the two Indians who
carried mails from Detroit, came here. The latter was well dressed and
looked very handsome. Lewis' wife was with him; a very pretty woman,
the only handsome woman -I have seen among the Indians. We treated
them with cherries. The Indians are particularly fond of fruit. We have
thirty large May Duke cherry trees behind the house,, and three standard
peach trees, which supplied us last autumn for tarts and desserts during
six weeks, besides the numbers the young men eat. My share was trifling
compared with theirs, and I eat thirty in a day. They were very small
172
MRS. SIMCOE CAMPS AT QUEENSTOWN
and high flavoured. When tired of eating them raw, Mr. Talbot roasted
them, and they were very good.
Fri. 5th Francis has been very ill, and the extreme heat of this place
is thought to be prejudicial to him. It is, therefore, determined that I
shall take him to the camp on the mountain. I shall have an establish-
ment of two marquees, a tent and two sentries. The Governor will come
to see us whenever he has leisure; my dinner is to be sent every day from
Navy Hall. This day I embarked at one o'clock on board the gunboat with
Francis and Sophia, and Mr. Mayne, of the Rangers, attended me. I left
the thermometer at 90, but it is pleasant on the water. It requires a
strong, steady wind to carry vessels to the Landing, as the current runs
four knots an hour against them. The gunboat, not having top sails,
catches but little wind between the high banks. It blew fresh when we
embarked, but soon became calm. Mr. Bouchette, for the honour of his
vessel, declared we were going on, but as it was not apparent to Mr. Mayne
and myself that we made the least way, we had the boat let down, and
proceeded the remaining three miles in it. I was much fatigued in
ascending the mountain; we reached the camp about five o'clock. I dined
alone. The Governor came to supper. The mosquito net was not brought,
and I passed a most wretched night. Mr. Talbot returned from the Miami,
where a fort had been built by order of the Governor-General, Lord Dor-
chester. The Indians have sent a deputation to the Commissioners, to
desire to converse with them at Niagara before they proceed to the
Miami, as Wayne's army has advanced nearer to them than they expected.
Sat. 6th The Governor returned to Navy Hall, as did the Commis-
sioners and some Indian chiefs.
Sun. 7th The Governor came to supper. The Indians have demanded
whether the Commissioners have full powers to fix a boundary; they
are to reply to-morrow. The " Mississaga " arrived with 270 Indians
from St. Regis. They belong to the tribes called the Seven Nations of
Canada. They speak French, are much civilized, and have a good deal
of the manners of Frenchmen.
NOTE. The term "Seven Nations" is an error. There were the
" Six Nations " but not " Seven." The Mississagas were for a time
encamped near the "Six Nations" and they were called by some
people the "Seven Nations."
Mon. 8th Another Indian Council held to-day at Navy Hall, at which
the Commissioners declared that they had full power to fix a boundary.
Tues. 9th It was determined in the Indian Council to-day that the
Commissioners and Indian deputies shall go to Sandusky to treat. The
Seven Nations having no conductor or officer with them, Mr. Talbot will
accompany them to Sandusky. The House of Assembly (the second
session of the first Legislature) was prorogued to-day.
My marquee commands the most beautiful view of the river and lake
seen between the finest oak trees, among which there is always a breeze of
wind. The music tent is at such a distance as to sound pleasantly. Mrs.
Hamilton and Mrs. Richardson were with me in my arbour when we
heard so violent a clap of thunder as made us all stoop our heads; the
lightning followed instantly. We ran into the tent, and stayed until a
violent torrent of rain had abated. On coming out I observed an oak,
which had stood close to the arbour, was much blasted by the lightning.
Mrs. Hamilton took Francis home with her, lest he should catch cold from
the damp of the tents after the violent rain. I drank tea and slept at
Mrs. Hamilton's.
NOTE. The First Legislature of Upper Canada met from Sep-
tember, 1792, to June, 1796, at Navy Hall, Niagara. The following
is a list of the Sessions with dates of meeting: First Session, 17th
175
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
September-15th October, 1792; second session, 31st May-9th July,
1793; third session, 2nd June-9th July, 1794; fourth session, 6th
July-lOth August, 1795; fifth session, 16th May-3rd June, 1796.
Mrs. Eichardson, wife of Dr. Richardson, surgeon of the Queen's
Rangers, was Madeleine Askin, second daughter by his first wife
of Colonel John Askin of Detroit. They were married on the 24th
of January, 1793, by the Rev. Robert Addison, who had been sent
to Niagara by the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel, and
was afterwards first Rector of St. Mark's Church there. Although
the church was not opened until August, 1809, parish records were
kept from 1792, and one of these shows that on "24th January,
1793, Dr. Robert Richardson, blr., and Madeleine Askin, spinr.,"
were married. Mrs. Richardson became the mother of Major John
Richardson, Canadian novelist, author of "Wacousta."
Thurs. llth I walked to the camp. The Governor went to Navy Hall.
I drank tea with Mrs. Hamilton, and saw the Seven Nations pass.
Fri. 12th Mr. Talbot dined with me on his way to Fort Erie.
Mon. 15th A wet day, which is very dismal in a tent; but to see the
light again, and feel the air dry, is such a pleasure that none can judge
of but those who have felt the reverse.
Tues. 16th We dined in the hut, and Mr. Mayne, of the Rangers,
drove me to Navy Hall in the afternoon in a gig we have had made, in
which he drove two horses tandem; it is so light that we went to Navy
Hall, which is seven miles, in three-quarters of an hour, and returned to
the Landing by eight o'clock. The road is good but for the stumps of trees
on each side, which it requires attention to avoid; but my charioteer left
Westminster, the school for boys in Dean's Yard, Westminster, last year,
so you may conclude him to be a steady person. He is a protege of Lord
Amherst's. He supplies Mr. Talbot's place when he is absent.
Thurs. 18th The weather being very hot, we went again to the camp.
In the evening we rode to Mrs. Tice's, a pleasant situation, like some in
Epping Forest; it is three miles from the camp.
Fri. 19th Went to Navy Hall; caught cold by going out this evening
without a fur tippet, which the great dew renders necessary after the very
hot days.
Sat. 20th Capt. Shaw and 100 men set off in batteau for Toronto.
Sometimes these batteau sail around the lake by the south shore to the
head of the lake, and then by the north to Toronto, but in fine weather
they cross the lake going direct. I drank tea at the fort (across the river).
Sun. 21st Extremely hot weather. Rode to the camp this evening,
and found it cooler and less damp than at Navy Hall. The mountain is
covered with a sweet, purple flower, the roots of which, infused in brandy,
make a wholesome cordial. It is called Oswego bitter. Mr. Russell (Hon.
Peter Russell) says it is a wild balm of Gilead, and that an oil may be
extracted from it. The leaves, dried, are good in pea soup or forced
meat. By some mistake my dinner did not arrive from Navy Hall one
day last week, but I had some of the excellent New York biscuits, which 1
eat, and said nothing about my dinner, feeling a pleasure in being able to
be independent.
Mon. 22nd We crossed the water to the Ferry House (Lewiston,
N.Y. ), opposite Queenstown, and breakfasted in an arbour covered with
wild vines and beautifully situated on the bank of the river. We rode
up the hill to the spot where the French had a fort built about 1750. We
saw a very extensive view towards the head of the lake. On our return
we found the arbour so cool and pleasant that the Governor sent for his
writing-box, and we stayed here the whole day. After dinner I ascended
176
MRS. SIMOOE AT TORONTO
the hill again and made a sketch. We supped in the camp. The " Cald-
well " sailed, with Capt. Smith, for Toronto.
Tues. 23rd Excessively hot weather. The Governor went to Navy
Hall. Francis is much better, but weak. I see him almost every day, but
did not choose to pay Mrs. Hamilton so long a visit, tho' I feel greatly
obliged to her for keeping the child. I have just heard that the " Onon-
daga " is arrived at Navy Hall to take us to Toronto. Whether we shall
remain there, and the regiment build huts for their winter residence, is
not yet decided.
Thurs. 25th Went this evening to Navy Hall.
Sat. 27th I went to church. Drank tea at the fort. My Marvel of
pine is in great beauty (evidently a plant or shrub).
Sun. 28th An experiment of firing shells from cannon was made at
the Fort by the Governor's orders.
Mon. 29th We were prepared to sail for Toronto this morning, but
the wind changed suddenly. We dined with the Chief Justice, and were
recalled from a walk at nine o'clock this evening, as the wind had become
fair. We embarked on board the " Mississaga," the band playing in the
ship. It was dark, so I went to bed and slept until eight o'clock the next
morning, when I found myself in the harbour of Toronto. We had gone
under an easy sail all night, for as no person on board had ever been at
Toronto, Mr. Bouchette was afraid to enter the harbour till daylight, when
St. John Rosseau, an Indian trader who lives near, came in a boat to
pilot us.
NOTE. The Governor, it seems, was not one of the passengers on
this occasion, for although Mrs. Simcoe uses the word "we," she
continues by saying that "no person on board had ever been at
Toronto." The Governor had visited Toronto on Tuesday, the 3rd
May his first visit and was at that port until the 12th, when he
returned to Navy Hall. He was in Niagara on the 28th July and in
York on the 6th of August. There is no entry in the diary as to
the date he left Niagara or of his arrival in York.
St. John (St. Jean Baptiste) Rousseau lived in 1793 on St.
John's Creek, later known as the Humber. He settled in Ancaster
in 1795, where he built the first grist and saw mill on the site of
the present village. He was a member of Masonic Lodge, No. 10,
in the township of Barton, known to-day as Barton Lodge, No. 6,
Hamilton. He died in 1815.
Tues. 30th The Queen's Rangers are encamped opposite to the ship.
After dinner we went on shore to fix on a spot whereon to place the
canvas houses, and we chose a rising ground, divided by a creek from
the camp, which is ordered to be cleared immediately. The soldiers have
cut down a great deal of wood to enable them to pitch their tents. We
went in a boat two miles to the 'bottom of the bay, and walked thro' a
grove of oaks, where the town is intended to be built. A law spit of land,
covered with wood, forms the bay and breaks the horizon of the lake,
which greatly improves the view, which indeed is very pleasfng. The
water in the bay is beautifully clear and transparent.
NOTE. The "rising ground" where the party camped was east of
the site of the present Old Fort, at the Queen's Wharf, Toronto.
The "Creek" known now as the Garrison Creek ran from the north-
west, along the east side of the Fort, but now the creek is drained.
Bellwoods Park is a portion of its old bed. The grove referred to
179
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
was situated on that part of Toronto bounded by George Street on
the west, Parliament Street on the east, Queen Street on the north
and Toronto Bay on the south. Early pictures of that part of the
city show oak trees along the line of Palace Street, the present Front
Street. The spit of land is the present island, in 1793 a peninsula.
Sun. Aug. 4th We rode on the peninsula opposite Toronto, so I called
the spit of land, for it is united to the mainland by a very narrow neck
of ground. We crossed the bay opposite the camp, and rode by the lake
side to the end of the peninsula.
NOTE. The party crossed the bay of Toronto from their camp
on the shore near the site of the Old Fort, and landed at the present
Hanlan's Point, known in the early days as Gibraltar Point. This
point is shown in all the Government maps from 1796 as "Gibraltar
Point." When Mrs. Simcoe writes later on that the "Onondaga"
on her way from Kingston to York was "off Gibraltar Point at York"
when passing the present Lighthouse Point, she wrote in error.
The peninsula in 1793 joined the mainland at the foot of the
present Woodbine Avenue. In 1854 the waters of Lake Ontario broke
through and created the present Island. Later the eastern channel
was made, now used by the largest lake boats.
4th We met with some good natural meadows and several ponds.
The trees are mostly of the poplar kind, covered with wild vines, and
there are some fir. On the ground were everlasting peas creeping in
abundance, of a purple color. I am told they are good to eat when boiled,
and some pretty, white flowers, like lilies of the valley. We continued
our ride beyond the peninsula on the sands of the north shore of Lake
Ontario till we were impeded by large trees on the beach. We then walked
some distance till we met with Mr. Grant's (the surveyor's) boat. It
was not much larger than a canoe, but we ventured into it, and after
rowing a mile we came within sight of what is named, in the map, the
highlands of Toronto. The shore is extremely bold, and has the appear-
ance of chalk cliffs, but I believe they are only white sand. They appeared
so well that we talked of building a summer residence there and calling
it Scarborough.
NOTE. The party rowed east on Lake Ontario, to the present
highlands known from the name given them by Governor Simcoe as
Scarborough Heights. The summer residence was not built at the
Heights, but a couple of miles up the Don River at the place known
as "Castle Frank."
4th The diversity of scenes I met with this morning made bhe ride
extremely pleasant. The wooded part of the peninsula was like shrubbery.
The sands towards the lake reminded me of the sands at Weymouth, and
the sight of the highlands presented a totally different country to anything
near the bay, tho' I was not more than four miles from it. I was very
near riding into what appeared a quicksand, which, with a little rain
and wind we met with for half an hour as we rode from the shore to the
Mississaga, were the only unpleasant incidents that occurred this day.
After dinner we left the Mississaga, and slept to-night in the canvas house.
NOTE. The canvas house was one of three or four large and small
tents that Governor Simcoe bought in London at the sale of the effects
of Captain Cook, the explorer. The original drawings of these tents
180
VISIT TO OLD FRENCH FORT
are in the British Museum, and facsimiles will appear in my biog-
raphy of Governor Simcoe.
Mon. 5th The children came on shore; this afternoon we walked two
miles to the old French Fort, but there are no remains of any building
there. It rained very hard, and I was as completely wet as if I had
walked through a river, for being in a shower in the woods is quite
different from being exposed to it in an open country; every tree acted as
a shower bath, as the path was just wide enough to admit of one person.
We passed some creeks and unhewn trees thrown across, a matter of
some difficulty to those unaccustomed to them. I should think it might
be done with less danger of falling with moccasins on the feet.
NOTE. The "old French Fort" was Fort Rouille, erected about
1750 and named after the French Colonial Minister of that name. It
was a stockade trading post, popularly known as Fort Toronto, but
officially as Fort Rouille, and the site was at the foot of Dufferin
Street, Toronto, now marked by a monument. Mrs. Simcoe's calcu-
lation of distance seems to have been erroneous, for it is less than a
mile from the camp, which was east of Garrison Creek, to the ruins
of the French Fort. Probably the pathway to the ruins was circuitous
and as they were walking through the woods the distance may have
led Mrs. Simcoe to the belief that they had gone two miles.
Tues. 6th Having been -wet thro' these last two days, I declined
going with the Governor to see a mill on St. John's Creek, six miles
towards the head of the lake. The Governor brought me some very good
cakes. The miller's wife is from the United States, where the women
excel in making cakes and bread.
NOTE. In November of 1678, the Franciscan Friar La Motte
and Hennepin sailed from Fort Frontenac for Niagara. On the
26th they arrived at the Indian village of Taiaiagon, near Toronto,
probably a few miles west of the mouth of the Humber River, where
they ran their vessel for safety into the mouth of the river, which
Parkman says was "probably the Humber." The site of this Indian
village is shown in a manuscript map sent to France by Intendant
Duchesneau and is now in the Archives de la Marine in Paris. The
word "Taiaiagon" means a portage or landing place, and it is very
doubtful if Hennepin in its use intended to refer to the site of
Toronto. There is no certainty as to the derivation or meaning
of the word Toronto. In early maps Lake Simcoe is called "Lac
Tarento" and "Lac Taronthe." Toronto evidently denoted Lake Sim-
coe and the surrounding region. In LaHontan's map the Humber
River is marked Tanaouate. By others it was called Toronto River.
In the maps of 1756 the river Humber, two miles west of Toronto,
is given as St. John's Creek. It is, however, given as the Humber
by D. W. Smith, A.S.G., on 31st January, 1798, in a plan of Humber
Mills, while State Papers H. 1, 1798, are entitled "Papers re Humber
Mills." They contain a letter from John Wil?on offering to pur-
chase the Government Saw Mills on the Humber, and "a statement
of annual income arising from the Government Saw Mills on the
Humber, commencing May, 1794, and ending December 31st, 1797,"
183
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
signed by John McGill, Superintendent Saw Mill Accounts. A map
of the Province of Upper Canada describing all the new Settlements,
Townships, etc., with the Counties adjacent, from Quebec to Lake
Huron, compiled at the request of His. Excellency Major-General
John Graves Simcoe, First Lieu tenant-Governor, etc., by David William
Smyth, Esq., Surveyor-General, London, Faden, 1800, is the earliest
map in the Archives Department, Ottawa, giving the name Humber.
The Government Mill was situated about the site of the ruins of the
present "old mill." It is believed that after the War of 1812-4 it
was never used. The Surveyor-General spelt his name indifferently
"Smith" and "Smyth."
Wed. 7th I rode on the peninsula from one till four. I saw loons
swimming on the lake; they make a noise like a man hollowing in a
tone of distress. One of these birds was sent to me dead at Niagara; it
was as large as a swan, black, with a few white marks on it. At a dis-
tance they appear like small fishing boats. The air on these sands is
peculiarly clear and fine. The Indians esteem this place so healthy that
they come and stay here when they are ill.
Fri. 9th Some Indians of the Ojibway tribe came from near Lake
Huron. They are extremely handsome, and have a superior air to any 1
have seen; they have been living among Europeans, therefore less accus-
tomed to drink rum. Some wore black silk handkerchiefs, covered with
silver brooches, tied right round the head, others silver bands, silver arm
bands, and their shirts ornamented with brooches; scarlet leggings or
pantaloons, and black, blue or scarlet broadcloth blankets. These Indians
brought the Governor " a beaver blanket to make his bed," as they ex-
pressed themselves, apologized for not having done it sooner, and invited
him to visit their country.
NOTE. The territory occupied by the Ojibway nation was the
largest in extent of any Indian possessions of which there is a definite
knowledge. When the Champlain traders met the Ojibways in 1610,
their eastern boundary was marked by the waters of Lakes Huron
and Michigan. The mountain ridge lying between Lake Superior
and the frozen bay (Hudson Bay) was the northern barrier. On
the west stretched a forest, beyond which was a vast prairie. On
the south, a valley, by Lake Superior, thence to the southern part
of Michigan. The land within these boundaries has always been
known as the country of the Ojibways.
Sat. 10th I went to my favourite sands; the bay is a mile across.
The Governor thinks, from the manner in which the sandbanks are formed,
they are capable of being fortified so as to be impregnable; he therefore
calls it "Gibraltar Point," tho' the land is low.
Sun. llth Lt. Smith of the 5th Regiment who is here as Acting
Deputy Surveyor-General read prayers to the Queen's Rangers assembled
under some trees near the parade. This evening we went to see a creek
which is to be called the River Don. It falls into the bay near the penin-
sula. After we entered we rowed some distance among low lands covered
with rushes, abounding with wild ducks and swamp black birds, with red
wings. About a mile beyond the bay the banks become high and wooded
as the river contracts its width.
Lt. Smith has drawn a fine map of the La Tranche River. From what
has been surveyed, it is proved that Charlevoix, the French explorer's
map, describes the country with great truth. If the line from the road
184
DIARY OF MBS. SIMCOE
to the river La Tranche was laid down according to its true bearings on
any map but Charlevoix's, it would strike Lake Erie instead of La Tranche.
NOTE. The Indian name of the Don River was "Wonscoteonach,"
signifying "back burnt grounds," that is, the river coming clown
from the back burnt country, which had previously been swept by fire.
The term is merely descriptive and not a proper name. The creek
which Mrs. Simcoe states is "to be called the River Don," was so named
by the Governor on this visit to Toronto. He very often discussed the
naming of places in the Province with his wife. This is gathered
from letters at Wolford.
Sir David William Smith, only child of Lieu-
tenant-Colonel John Smith, of the Fifth Foot,
was born 4th September, 1764. He was ensign
in his father's regiment and afterwards captain.
He was a member of the Executive Council and
of the three first Canadian Parliaments. He
was also Surveyor-General of Upper Canada. In
1821 he was created a baronet. He died in Eng-
land in the spring of 1837.
Tues. 13th An Indian named Wable Casigo sup- giB D. W. SMITH.
plies us with salmon, which the rivers and creeks on
this shore abound with. It is supposed they go to the sea; the velocity
with which fish move makes it not impossible, and the very red
appearance and goodness of the salmon confirms the supposition; they are
best in the month of June. I brought a favourite white cat, with
grey spots, with me from Niagara. He is a native of Kingston. His
sense and attachment are such that those who believe in trans-
migration would think his soul once animated a reasoning being. He
was undaunted on board the ship, sits composedly as sentinel at my
door, amid the beat of drums and the crash of falling trees, and visits the
tent with as little fear as a dog would do. There has been a fever at
Niagara. This place is very healthy, and I think it probable we shall
spend the winter here. 'Mr. Talbot is still in Philadelphia; Mr. Grey at
Quebec. He has broken his arm there. The Governor has the gout in
his foot very slightly. He has just received a letter from Prince Edward,
lamenting his not obtaining leave to go to England.
Sat. 24th The Governor has received an official account of the Duke
of York (1763-1827) having distinguished himself in an action in Flanders
by which the French were dislodged and driven out of Holland. The
Governor ordered a royal salute to be fired in commemoration of this
event, and took the same opportunity of naming this station York. There
are a few twelve or eighteen pounders, which were brought here from
Oswegatchie or from Carleton Island. The " Mississaga " and " Onon-
daga " fired also, and the regiment.
NOTE. It is doubtful whether this refers to Old Oswegatchie, the
fort that was originally built by the French at Ogdensburg in St.
Lawrence County, New York, on the banks of the Oswegatchie River.
The name is a corruption of the Huron word meaning "black water."
The fort was occupied by the French during the Seven Years' War,
but was captured by the British in 1760, when they were en route
down the St. Lawrence to attack Montreal. Directly opposite
Ogdensburg is tHe Canadian town of Prescott, and northeast of Pres-
cott is the township of Augusta in the County of Grenville, in which
187
DIARY OF MBS. SIMCOE
CANISE
was situated a district known as New Oswegatchie. Near the present
village of Maitland, in 1758, defensive works were erected by the
French, and because timber was easily procured, a shipyard was
established. The original French fort with its pickets was in exis-
tence in 1785. It is more than likely that the
' 2^ guns came from Carleton Island.
("/ \\ Sat. 24th There were a party of Ojibway In-
dians here, who appeared much pleased with the
firing. One of them, named " Great Sail," took Fran-
cis in his arms, and was much pleased to find the
child not afraid, but delighted with the sound.
NOTE. On the 26th August, 1793, was issued
over the signature of E. B. Littlehales, the major
of brigade, an official order to the effect that the
Lieutenant-Governor having received information
of the success of His Majesty's arms under H.R.H.
gail) the Duke of York, by which Holland was saved
from the invasion of the French, the Governor
had determined to change the name of "Toronto" to that of "York"
in honor of the Duke. This order was effective from 27th August,
when the two-cross Flag was raised and a salute of twenty-one guns
fired to commemorate the event.
Sun. 25th The Abbe des Jardins and a Monsr. de la Corne arrived
here. They are sent by some French emigres to examine whether a suit-
able establishment could be allotted for them in this country. The Abbe"
appears a cunning, clever man, whose manners are those of one accustomed
to live in the best society in Paris. La Corne is a Canadian who has
been some time resident in France. The Governor received them with
great civility; has ordered a marquee to be pitched for them. He has
recommended them to travel towards Burlington Bay, at the head of the
lake, where the country is open and the climate very mild. The soil and
local circumstances they may judge of when on the spot.
NOTE. L'Abbe Philippe-Jean-Louis Desjar-
dins was born in France 6th June, 1753. He
became a priest in December, 1777, and was one
of the forty-four priests who fled from France
during the French Revolution. Shortly after
his arrival in Canada in March, 1793, he was
sent to Niagara. Afterwards he became a direc-
tor of the Ursuline Convent in Quebec, where he
was a well-known ecclesiastic. It was owing to
his efforts that many valuable paintings were
brought to Canada. He died in Paris on 21st
October, 1883.
Late in 1792, the British Government
selected four persons to go to Canada to make L ABEE DESJARDINS -
the necessary preliminary arrangements for settling there some of
the emigres. These envoys were Philippe-Jean-Louis Desjardins, for-
merly vicar-general of Orleans; Jean-Marie Raimbeau, priest of the
diocese of Bayeux; M. Gazil, doctor and formerly principal of the
188
MIDSUMMER IN YORK
College of Navarre; and the Chevalier Frangois-Josue Saint-Luc
de la Come, formerly post captain in the French Navy. These
gentlemen were given 200 by the Government and 80 by
the Relief committee. They were instructed to embark on His
Majesty's packet for New York, and, having arrived there, to
seek out His Majesty's agent, Sir John Temple, who was
directed to give them all the needful assistance in prosecuting
their journey to Quebec. The envoys reached that city on
March 2nd, 1793, and presented their credentials to the Lieu-
tenant-Governor. On August 3, 1793, M. Desjardins and the Cheva-
lier de la Corne left for the Upper Province. They were received
with great cordiality, were entertained for several weeks in the
capital of the Province, Newark, now called Niagara, and appar-
ently expressed a wish for land in this vicinity. They also visited
York. As a result the Executive Council set aside for them a town-
ship at the west end of Lake Ontario near Burlington Bay.
Wed. 28th I walked with the Governor on Gibraltar Point this even-
ing.
Thur. 29th The gunboat arrived from Niagara. An officer from
Detroit came in her, who says the Indian Commissioners returned to the
States without making peace with the Indians, as they refused to give up
what the Indians had invariably made the terms of accommodation.
Fri. 30th The " Mississaga " came from Niagara in four hours. Mr.
Russell came in her.
Wed. 4th Sept. I rode to St. John's Creek (the Humber River).
There is a ridge of land extending near a mile beyond St. John's House,
300 feet high and not more than three feet wide; the bank towards the
river is of smooth turf. There is a great deal of hemlock spruce on this
river; the banks are dry and very pleasant. I gathered a beautiful large
species of Polygala, which is a genus of annual and perennial herbs
and shrubs of the order of Polygalacae.
1 found a green caterpillar, with tufts like fir on its back. I acci-
dentally touched my face with them, and it felt as if stung by a nettle,
and the sensation continued painful for some time. It was extremely
oalm when we set out, but on our return we were almost seasick, the water
was so rough. A little breeze on this lake raises the waves in the most
sudden manner.
Fri. 6th I have read Alfred's letters. I never expected to have been
so much entertained by a political book or to have comprehended so much
of the politics of Europe. Mr. Osgoode, the Chief Justice, suspects it to
be written by Mr. Burgess. (A friend of Governor Simcoe's, whose por-
trait is at Wolford.)
I went to-day to ride to Gibraltar Point.
NOTE. Three letters (signed Alfred) to the people of Great
Britain and particularly to those who signed the addresses on the
late changes of administration and the dissolution of Parliament.
London, 1785.
Wed. llth We rowed six miles up the Don to Coons', who has a farm
under a hill covered with pine. I saw very fine butternut trees. The
nuts are better than walnuts; gathered berries of cockspur thorns. I
landed to see the shingles made, which is done by splitting large blocks
of the pine into equal divisions. We found the river very shallow in
many parts and obstructed by fallen trees. One of them lay so high
above the water that the boat passed under, the rowers stooping their
191
DIARY OF MBS. SIMCOE
heads. It looked picturesque, and a bald eagle sat on a blasted pine on
a very bold point just above tbe fallen tree. The Governor talks of
placing a canvas house on this point for a summer residence. Vencal
rowed a very intelligent man, born in Sweden.
NOTE. Coon's farm was on the east bank of the Don Biver
about where Chester is to-day.
Fri. 13th Mr. Pilkington coasted the lake from Niagara, and arrived
here in two days, about 100 miles.
NOTE. Bobert Pilkington (1765-1834) obtained his commission
as second lieutenant in the Boyal Artillery in 1787. He was trans-
ferred to the Boyal Engineers in 1789 and was stationed at Quebec;
was first lieutenant in January, 1793, and captain in 1801. He was
on General Simcoe's staff from 1793-6 and built the fort on the
Maumee by instructions of Governor Simcoe. The building of this
fort was one of the causes of friction between Governor Simcoe and
Lord Dorchester, the Governor-General at Quebec. The Governor
had advised against the erection, but was ordered to carry out in-
structions. Pilkington remained in Canada until 1803. He became
major-general in 1825 and was inspector-general of fortifications
in England in 1830. He died in 1834. His wife was Hannah,
daughter of John Tylee, and by her he had two sons, one of whom
died shortly after birth, and four daughters. The surviving son,
Bobert John Pilkington, married Jane, daughter of Andrew Shaw,
of Montreal, a daughter being Mrs. J. W. Molson of that city.
Sat. 14th We walked to the spot intended for the site of the town.
Mr. Aitkin's (the surveyor) canoe was there; we went into it, and himself
and his man paddled. We went at the rate of four knots an hour. I
liked it very much; being without the noise of oars is a great satisfaction.
I gathered purple berries from a creeping plant, seeds of lilies and spike-
nard. To see a birch canoe managed with that inexpressible care and
composure, which is the characteristic of an Indian, is the prettiest sight
imaginable. A man usually paddles at one end of it and a woman at the
other; but in smooth water little exertion is wanting, and they sit quietly,
as if to take the air. The canoe appears to move as if by clockwork. I
always wish to conduct a canoe myself when I see them manage it with
such dexterity and grace. An European usually looks awkward and in a
bustle compared with the Indian's quiet skill in a canoe.
NOTE. Alexander Aitkin was the Deputy- Surveyor, who by order of
Governor Simcoe, made the first survey and map or plan of the orig-
inal town of York (Toronto). This plan was made in June, 1793,
after the Governor had selected the site. The Governor, who retained
the plan with other official documents, sent it to the war authorities
in London, on his arrival in England from Canada in 1796. Many
times during the past century search for this plan was made in the
War Office, in the Colonial Office, and in the British Museum, but
without avail. In October, 1900, however, I discovered it in the
Public Becord Office, Chancery Lane, London, just 107 years from the
date of its making. Aitkin was a very active official and was a
favorite with Governor Simcoe. During the latter years of his life
he resided in Kingston, U.C., where he died about 1830.
192
13
FLAX OF YORK HARBOUR.
195
DIARY OF MBS. SIMCOE
Mon. 23rd I rode on the peninsula. My horse has spirit enough to
wish to get before others. I rode a race with Mr. Talbot to keep myself
warm. I gathered wild grapes. They were pleasant, but not sweet. Capt.
Smith is gone to open a road, to be called Dundas Street, from the head
of the lake to the River La Tranche. He has 100 men with him.
Tues. 24th 1 hear that they kill rattlesnakes every day, yet not a
man has been bitten, altho' they have been among them for six weeks.
Capt. Smith sent two of the snakes in a barrel, that I might see them;
they were dark and ugly, and made a whizzing sound in shaking their
rattles when I touched them with a stick. We dine in a marquee to-day.
It has become too cold in the arbour; the canvas house we use as a bed-
room, but the other is going to be erected for a winter dining-room. I
have gathered most beautiful white berries, with a black eye, from red
stalks. I cannot find out its name.
Wed. 25th The Governor set out, with four officers, a dozen soldiers
and some Indians, to visit Lake Huron.
Sun. 29th 1 walked on the sand bank and gathered seeds of Toronto
lilies.
Wed. Oct. 2nd The Governor's horses returned from the Mississaga
Creek, now the Holland River, from whence he sent me some seeds. I
received the outside garment sent from England by Mr. G. Davison. The
ground mice are innumerable and most troublesome here. We want the
edict published in Spain to excommunicate and banish them. I send you
a bat remarkable for its size, and a beautiful black and yellow bird.
Fri. 25th I send a map to elucidate the Governor's journey, which
was attended with danger as well as with many pleasant circumstances.
The western side of the lake is drawn from Mr. Pilkington's sketches, the
eastern from former accounts. Mr. Pilkington, who was one of the party,
says the scenery was fit for pictures the whole way, and from his drawings
I should suppose so. They rode 30 miles to the Miciaguean Mississaga
Creek, then passed a terrible bog of liquid mud.
The Indians with some difficulty pushed the canoe the Governor was
in through it. The Governor went to the habitation of Canise, the Indian
who held Francis in his arms during the firing when " York " was named.
Canise and his eldest son were lately dead, and their widows and children
were lamenting them. Young Canise gave the Governor a beaver blanket,
and made speeches of excuse for not sooner having made his bed. The
Governor went to see a very respectable Indian named " Old Sail," who
lives on a branch of Holland's River. He advised him to return by the
eastern branch of it to avoid the swamp. They proceeded about thirty
miles across Lac aux Claies, now named Simcoe, in which are many
islands, which Coll. Simcoe named after his father's friends and those
gentlemen who accompanied him. The river from thence to Matchedash
Bay afforded the most picturesque scenery, from the number of falls and
rapids upon it. Some of them were avoided by carrying the canoes on
the shores; others they risked going down.
NOTE. There have been great changes in recent years on the
Severn River owing to the placing of dams at the various water-
falls. McDonald's Rapids have been almost obliterated by blasting,
done by the Dominion Government and by the Town's power dam
at the Ragged Rapids, but in the recollection of Mr. C. H. Hale of
Orillia, who has kindly furnished me with information regarding
the Severn pictures, the principal cascade of McDonald's Rapids was
as shown in the sketch made by Lieutenant Pilkington in 1793.
Holland's River is named, after Surveyor- General Samuel Hol-
land. The town of Holland Landing, thirty-eight miles from
Toronto, is situated on this river.
196
1
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I
THE GOVERNOR AT LAKE SIMCOE.
Lake Simcoe, originally Ouentaronk Lake, sometimes called Sin-
ion or Shiniong, afterwards called Lac aux Claies, was given its
present name by Governor Simcoe out of respect for his father.
The three principal islands in Lake Simcoe are now known by
the names of Snake, Georgina and Thorah Islands. Georgina and
Thorah Islands were formerly known as Graves and Canise Islands,
respectively, but have come to be called by the names of the townships
to which they are adjacent. Snake Island, from the time of the
earliest white traders down to the present, has had the name it now
bears. There was an attempt more than a century ago to rename the
islands after friends of Governor Simcoe, but none of the designations
came into general use. Smith's Gazetteer, published in 1799, and
in its second edition published in 1813, gives Snake Island as Dar-
ling's Island, named after Captain (afterwards General) Darling,
one of the friends of Simcoe who accompanied him on this trip to
Lake Simcoe and Matchedash Bay. These names, however, had only
a temporary application on paper, and the names in use among the
traders and early settlers were not superseded by the proposed ones.
Matchedash Bay is an inlet at the southeast extremity of Georgian
Bay, Lake Huron also spelled Machedash and Matadash and means
muskeg or marshy ground. Waubaushene is situated at its mouth,
nearly opposite where the Severn enters Georgian Bay.
25th In passing a rapid an Indian in the Governor's canoe fell over,
and the canoe passed over him. He rose up on the other side and got in
again without seeming discomposure. On returning one of the soldiers
cut his foot near Holland's River. Mr. Alexander McDonnell and an-
other gentleman stayed with him, as he was unable to travel. The
" Old Sail " received them hospitably, and shot ducks for them. A small
quantity of provisions being left with them, and an Indian who carried a
large cargo quitting the party, reduced the stock so much that the Gover-
nor set out with only two days' provisions and the expectation of five days'
march to bring them to York. The Indians lost their way, and
when they had provisions for one day only they knew not where they
were. The Governor had recourse to a compass, and at the close of the
day they came on a surveyor's line, and the next morning saw Lake
Ontario. Its first appearance, Coll. Simcoe says, was the most delightful
sight, at a time they were in danger of starving, and about three miles
from York they breakfasted on the remaining provisions.
NOTE. The Big Chute is now being developed by the Simcoe
Power, Light and Eailway Company, and for many years there
has been a lumbermen's dam at this point. At the right side of the
river, going down stream, in the neighborhood of the Big Chute, there
is considerable indentation caused by the dams raising the water.
This indentation was not apparent in 1793, before the inroads of
civilization.
25th Had they remained in the woods another day it was feared that
" Jack Snap " would have been sacrificed to their hunger. He is a very
fine Newfoundland dog who belonged to Mr. Sheehan, near Niagara, but
has lived at Navy Hall from the time of our coming there, and walked to
Detroit with Coll. Simcoe. He has been troublesome enough on this excur-
sion, as his size was very unsuitable to a canoe, but he is a great favourite.
199
DIARY OF MBS. SIMCOE
Coll. Simcoe had the satisfaction of finding Matchadash Bay such as
gave him reason to believe would he an excellent harbour for very large
ships. A bay near Prince William is called Penetanguishene, a fine har-
bour. The fever at New York and Philadelphia amounts almost to the
plague.
ISToTE. There was a terrific visitation of yellow fever at Xew
York and Philadelphia in 1791-2 and 1793. Many thousands of
persons died of the pestilence.
Sun. 27th A road for walking is now opened up three miles on each
side of the camp. I can, therefore, now take some exercise without going
to the peninsula. Mr. McDonell arrived with the soldiers from Holland's
River. He brought some wild ducks from Lake Simcoe, which were
better than any I have ever tasted; these birds are so much better
than any in England from their feeding on wild rice. Capt. Smith
is returned from cutting the road named Dundas. It is opened for 20
miles.
They met with quantities of wild grapes, and put some of the juice
in barrels to make vinegar, and Capt. Smith told me it turned out very
tolerable wine. They killed numbers of rattlesnakes every day, but nobody
was bitten by them. Capt. Smith brought two in a barrel to show me, as I
had never seen any alive.
NOTE. This shows that the road known as Dundas St. was in
October, 1793, opened for twenty miles, that is, as far as Port Credit.
It was named after Henry Dunda?, who became Home Secretary,
1791, and Secretary for War, 1794. He was raised to the peerage
as Viscount Melville, December 24th, 1802.
Mon. 28th The weather has been very cold for some days and the
frost very severe, notwithstanding which we feel it quite mild in the
woods. To-day we walked two miles to a pretty spot by the side of a
creek, where we had a fire made of many large trees and wild ducks
roasted by it, and we dined without feeling the least cold. Coll. Picker-
ing's, the American Indian Commissioner's dish, chowder, is also easily
dressed in the woods, being prepared in a kettle before we left our house.
XOTE. Sparrow Lake Chute, two or three miles below McLean's
Bay. : has been considerably affected by dams built on the Ragged
Rapids, to such an extent in fact, that at one time it was navigable
by steamers.
Gloucester Pool is an enlargement of the Severn River five miles
from its mouth. The Severn empties into Georgian Bay at Port
Severn on the east side of the Bay at its southern extremity. Civili-
zation has so completely altered the aspect of this landscape that it
is a difficult matter after a hundred years to identify places.
200
l
g -
I !
s I
CHAPTER XIII.
BUILDING OF CASTLE FRANK, ON RIVER DON.
It was in the last days of October, 1793, that General Simcoe
determined to select a site for a summer home near York.
Frequent excursions by boat up the Don as far as navigable, and
walks through the woods that skirted its banks, created a love for
that part of the country, a sentiment which was always retained
by the Governor and his wife. Years after their return to England
she often spoke of "that pretty spot, Castle Frank." Mrs. Simcoe
made many sketches of her summer home both from the high ground
on which it stood and from the approach up the river. Two of these
drawings have been preserved. She writes :
Tues. 29th The Governor having determined to take a lot of 200 acres
upon the River Don for Francis, and the law obliges persons having lots
of land to build a house upon them within a year, we went to-day to fix
upon the spot for building the house. We went six miles by water from
the Fort and east along the bay shore to the Don, and up that river, landed,
climbed up an exceedingly steep hill, or rather a series of sugar-loafed
hills, and approved of the highest spot, from whence we looked down
on the tops of large trees and, seeing eagles near, I suppose they build
there. There are large pine plains around it, which, being without under-
wood, I can ride and walk on, and we hope the height of the situation will
secure us from mosquitos. We dined by a large fire on wild ducks and
chowder, on the side of a hill opposite to that spot. Our long walk made
it late before we had dined, so that, altho' we set out immediately after-
wards and walked fast, it was nearly dark before we reached the sur-
veyor's tent. From there we went home in a boat, as the stumps and
roots of trees in the road were so troublesome to walk among in the dark.
Mr. L,ittlehales and some gentlemen lost their way in attempting to return
to the camp after us. They slept in the woods about a mile distant.
The following description of Castle Frank is from Robertson's
Landmarks of Toronto, Vol. 1, p. 3-5.
"During the spring of 1794, the Governor built Castle Frank as
a summer residence and named it after his son Francis. It was in the
woods on the brow of a steep high bank overlooking the valley of
the Don, at a point just beyond the fence which is now the north
bounds of St. James' Cemetery. A large portion of the land formerly
belonging to Castle Frank is now part of the burying ground. Below
and to the south of the dwelling was a deep ravine down which
between hog-back formations ran a stream named Castle Frank
brook, which flowed into the Don, just above a small island on the
west side. The marshes gave way on the right at this point to good
land covered with elm, butternut and basswood trees. The site of
the building is marked with a stone. The ground on each side of it
has a steep descent on its north side to the Don, and on the south
203
DIARY OF MBS. SIMCOE
to the bottom of Castle Frank brook ravine through which the tiny
rivulet runs. The view from the dwelling was hemmed in by the
trees that covered alike the surrounding level land and the steep-
hillsides that could only be climbed with difficulty. No pret-
tier spot could have been selected for a summer home. Some of the
white pines that stood there a century ago are still to be seen, but
many look as if they were second growth. To the east the view was
204
CASTLE FEANK
down upon the valley of the Don, and to the west over the ravine
now in the cemetery. The modern entrance to the ravine is by
Castle Avenue and Castle Frank Crescent.
"Castle Frank was not occupied permanently by the Governor
and his family, but many excursions were made and week ends spent
by the friends who enjoyed pleasant hours in the little settlement
during Governor Simcoe's administration. The building was about
fifty feet in depth and thirty feet in width, the latter being the
frontage, which faced south. The front elevation was not unlike
that of a Greek temple. The trunks of four large, well matched,
unbarked pine trees answered for columns supporting the pediment
or the projection of the whole roof. The main doorway was in the
centre of the front, but no windows on either side. On the east and
west sides were four windows with shutters of heavy double planks
running up and down on one side, and crosswise on the other, and
thickly studded with the heads of stout nails. Of a similar con-
struction was the door. A chimney arose from the middle of the
roof. The walls were built of rather small, carefully hewn logs, of
short lengths, clap-boarded. They presented a comparatively finished
appearance on the outside, but after a time took the weather-stained
color that unpainted wood assumes. Inside the finish was rough,
in fact the interior was never fully completed. A slight attempt
at a division into rooms had been made, but was never entirely
carried out. Entering the front door the visitor found himself at
once in an apartment extending the width of the building and about
half its length. On one side was a big fireplace. At the rear of this
was another room of similar dimensions with a fireplace in the
opposite wall. This cleared space in front of the building was but a
few yards across, and from it to the site of the town ran a narrow
carriage-way and bridle-path cut out by the soldiers and graded,
traces of which may still be found.
"Castle Frank received its title from the five year old son of
Governor Simcoe, although the Rev. Dr. Henry Scadding, one of my
old school masters at Upper Canada College and from whom I
obtained all the information here given in regard to the building,
points out that there was a 'Castle-franc' near Rochelle, which figures
in the history of the Huguenots. The Iroquois had honored the
Governor with the title of 'De yonyn hokrawen,' signifying 'One whose
door is always open,' and on his little son, who appears to have been
a great favorite with them, as he sometimes was attired in Indian
costume, they conferred the honour of chieftainship, and named him
Deyoken, which means 'Between the two objects/ A warrior's fate
befell the young chieftain, for at the age of twenty-one, while serv-
ing with his regiment during the Peninsular "War, he fell in the breach
at Badajoz in 1812. In spite of the unavoidable discomforts of life
at Castle Frank and at York, many were the compensating pleasures,
especially for the soldier pioneers who formed almost the entire
male population. Governor Simcoe's mind was absorbed with
207
DIARY OF MBS. SIMCOE
schemes of government and war. Those who were fond of
sport might gratify their desire to the full in the forest which
surrounded York, where bear, deer and wolves and small game
abounded. Woodcock and snipe were plentiful on the peninsula
and east and north of the east end of Toronto Bay. In the early
days salmon was speared at night in the Don, and the bay and Lake
Ontario were filled with fish of all kinds. Until Governor Simcoe's
departure in 1796, Castle Frank's rough roof covered many a gay
party, brought up by canoes and rowboats from the Fort, or on
horseback.
"After Governor Simcoe's return to England Castle Frank was
occasionally used by President Peter Russell and his family for a
picnic, excursion party or ball, when the guests were in summer taken
up the Don in boats and in winter by the same route in sleighs.
That these trips must have given great enjoyment to those concerned
is evident, for there is a letter extant from Mr. Russell, written
in December, 1796, in which he says: 'I hope the ladies may be able
to enjoy the charming carioling (sleighing) which you must have
on your bay and up the Don to Castle Frank, when an early dinner
must be picturesque and delightful.' Captain John Denison, an
officer in the English militia, came to Canada from Hedon, York-
shire, in 1792. He first settled in Kingston, but in 1796 he moved
to York, and during the summer months he lived at Castle Frank
by permission of the Honorable Peter Russell."
Colonel Talbot in a letter to
General Simcoe dated July 17th,
1803, writes of a trip to York
and a visit to Castle Frank. He
says : "I paid a visit of duty to
Castle Frank, which I am sorry
to add is uninhabited and going
to ruin. Some rascals had, a few
days before I saw it, broken off
the window shutters and gone
down to the lower apartment,
NEAB CASH* FRANK. where the -X, broke down the chi ,^
ney in order to carry away the
(From a Drawing !,>/ Mrs. Shncue.) i_ j? j.i j. j. j -j.
bar of iron that supported it."
In 1807, Mrs. Simcoe, the widow of the late Governor, wrote
to Sir David W. Smith, Bart., who resided at Alnwick and in 1798-9
was Speaker of the Legislative Assembly of Upper Canada, con-
cerning the Scarborough lands of her late husband. Sir David
replied that he understood that the Government long before he left
Canada made some entry in the Council books, and that he considered
Castle Frank as making up the residue of this land. But, added
Sir David, the General told me that the person who made out the
deed of the Castle Frank property mistook 'G' for Graves and
208
FIRE DESTROYS CASTLE FRANK
called the property, registered in the name of Francis, 'Graves'
instead of 'Gwillim.'
After 1807, Castle Frank was tenantless. The building began
to show further signs of decay, and in 1829 it was accidentally burned
through the carelessness of some amateur fishermen, and so a build-
ing that would to-day be a genuine relic of the olden time passed
out. The only relic I know of in connection with Castle Frank is
a Masonic gavel made out of a piece of ash, and which was presented
to me by Orient Lodge A. F. and A. M., Toronto, in 1892, during
my term as Grand Master of the 'Grand Lodge of Canada, in the
Province of Ontario.
Wed. 30th Oct. We have received, from Montreal a birch bark canoe,
such as is used by the North-West Company to transport their goods to the
Grand Portage. It requires twelve men to paddle, is large enough to con-
tain four or five passengers to sit very commodiously in the centre under
an awning. An Indian woman came to-day with pitch, which is made by
the Indians from fir trees, to gum the canoe if any part of it is worn off
by bringing it hither. She held a piece of pitch in her hand, and melted
it by applying a piece of burning wood. Her figure was perfectly wild and
witchlike, and a little fire, with a kettle on it by her side, in a stormy,
dark day, the waves roaring on the beach near which she stood, formed a
scene very wildly picturesque.
Fri. Nov. 1st I walked this morning. At eight this dark evening
we went in a boat to see salmon speared. Large torches of white birch
bark being carried in the boat, the blaze of light attracts the fish, when
the men are dexterous in spearing. The manner of destroying the fish
is disagreeable, but seeing them swimming in shoals around the boat is a
very pretty sight.
The flights of wild pigeons in the spring and autumn is a surprising
sight. They fly against the wind and so low that at Niagara the men
threw sticks at them from the fort and killed numbers; the air is some-
what darkened by them. 1 think those we have met with here have
been particularly good. Sometimes they fix a bullet to a string tied to
a pole, and knock them down. Coll. Butler, of the Rangers, was observing
that they build where there are plenty of acorns, but do not feed within
20 miles of the place, reserving that stock of provisions till the young
ones can leave their nests, and then scratch the acorns up for them.
Pigeons have been shot with rice in their craws on the Mohawk River.
Rice does not grow nearer than Carolina. Therefore, it is presumed (con-
sidering the supposed time of digestion) that they must have flown 200
miles a day.
Fri. 8th We have had a week of incessant rain.
Sat. 9th I went to-day for the first time in the North-West canoe. A
beaver blanket and a carpet were put in to sit on. We carried a small
table, to be used in embarking, for the canoe cannot be brought very near
the shore, lest the gravel or pebbles injure her, so the table was set in
the water and a long plank laid from it to the shore, to enable me to get
in or out, the men carrying the canoe empty into the water and out of it
up on their shoulders. We have less than " boards between us and
eternity," for the canoe is formed of birch bark fixed on to thin ribs of
very light wood with the gum or pitch the Indians make from fir trees,
and of which they always carry some with them, lest an accident rub off
any, or the heat of the sun melt it.
We dined in a meadow on the peninsula, where I amused myself with
setting fire to a kind of long dry grass, which burns very quickly, and
the flame and smoke run along the ground very quickly and with a pretty
14 209
DIARY OF MBS. SIMCOE
effect. I was delighted with the swift and easy motion of the canoe and
with its appearance.
Thurs. 14th I went again in the canoe until we came in sight of the
Highlands, but it was so very cold I was very glad to walk part of the
way back. We dined on the peninsula. I passed a spot on the peninsula
where it was supposed an Indian had been buried lately. A small pile of
wood was raised, a bow and arrow lay on it, and a dog-skin hung near it.
Some Indians sacrifice dogs, other tribes eat them when extremely ill.
Tues. 19th At this season of the year there is usually a fortnight of
foggy weather; the air is perfectly dry and hot, and smells and feels like
smoke; it is called Indian summer. I have never heard these smoky fogs
well accounted for.
Wed. 20th We dined in the woods and eat part of a raccoon; it was
very fat and tasted like lamb if eaten with mint sauce.
Thurs. 21st An owl was sent to me, shot at Niagara; it measured
five feet from wing to wing when they were extended.
Fri. 22nd Mr. Littlehales went on horseback to Niagara.
NOTE. This journey was made by travelling west from York
along Dundas Street and then through a track in the woods along the
north shore of Lake Ontario to Burlington Bay, where a stop was
made at the government inn known as "The King's Head." The
journey from Burlington Bay to Niagara was made through the
woods, skirting the south shore of the Lake.
Fri. 29th An Indian came here who, by way of being in mourning
for a relation, was painted black round his face.
Mon. Dec. 2nd The " Great Sail," his wife and ten children came
here; they grouped themselves like Van Dyke's family pictures. They
brought us deer. Francis handed plates of apples to them. He shakes
hands with the Indians in a very friendly manner, tho' he is very shy
and ungracious to all his own countrymen. A Mississaga, called the
" Man of the Snakes," was here also. The Mississagas dress very indif-
ferently.
NOTE. Earlier in the autumn, Canise, otherwise known as "Great
Sail/' and his son had died, for on 25th October Mrs. Simcoe writes
that they are " lately dead." She also refers to " young Canise," no
doubt a grandson, "who gave the Governor a beaver blanket and
made speeches of excuse for not sooner having made his bed." The
"Great Sail" here mentioned was in all probability a successor to the
chieftainship.
Sun. Dec. 8th The " Onondaga " was left under the care of a young
lieutenant and ran aground. It is feared she cannot be got off until the
spring, and then perhaps not without injury.
NOTE. In 1793, the "Onondaga," 12 guns, 80 tons burthen, an
armed vessel of the Provincial Government went ashore on the west
side of Gibraltar Point, now Hanlan's Point. After being abandoned,
the vessel was pulled off by Mr. Joseph Bouchette. For this act he was
promoted second lieutenant in the provincial navy.
Mon. 9th The Governor went to the west shore of the peninsula at
Gibraltar Point to view the " Onondaga " in such rough weather that the
waves came into the boat and made everybody wet.
Thur. 12th Mr. Grey has just received orders to join Sir C. Grey in
the West Indies. He is to go by way of New York. The Governor and
210
SKATING ON BAY AT YOKK
Mr. Talbot set out with him this morning to accompany him as far as
Niagara. Fine, calm weather.
NOTE. The foregoing entry has reference to Lieutenant Thomas
Grey, who had come to Canada with Governor Simcoe, joining his
father, Sir Charles Grey, first Earl Grey, who was in this year (1793)
appointed with Jervis (subsequently Earl St. Vincent) commander
of an expedition to the French West Indies. They reduced Martinique
in March, and St. Lucia and Guadaloupe in April, 1794.
H.M. SCHOONER " ONONDAGA.
(From a Drawing by Mm. Simcoe.)
Mon. 16th An exceedingly rough day. At eight o'clock the Governor
and Mr. Talbot returned. They left Niagara at one o'clock yesterday,
rowed till four in the morning, slept a few hours at Jones' farm at the
" head of the lake." They arrived at Niagara on Friday in such rough
weather that there was great difficulty in turning Mississaga Point. (At
the mouth of the Niagara River.)
Thur. 19th I walked to the Don. There are great hopes of getting
the " Onondaga " afloat.
Sat. 21st A hard frost. The bay is half-frozen over. The " Man of
Snakes " came here.
Sunday 22nd The bay is quite frozen over. Mr. Talbot skated to
the other side. I walked to-day.
211
DIARY OF MRS, SIMCOE
Mon. 23rd Very cold weather.
Tues. 24th Thunder and lightning last night. Extreme hard frost
this morning.
Thur. 26th Wright and Herring returned from Niagara in a boat.
Jt is found to be practicable to walk and ride thither throughout the
winter, therefore we are not in as isolated a situation as it was expected
we should find it. We received news of Admiral Gardner's having taken
two 44-gun ships off Sandy Hook and some privateers near Halifax.
NOTE. Edward Wright emigrated to America before the Revo-
lutionary War. On its expiration he returned to the old land, where
he remained for several years, but in 1792 came to Canada with the
Queen's Rangers. His son,
Edward Graves Simcoe Wright,
who in after years kept the
Greenland Fisheries Tavern,
north-west corner of Front and
John Streets, Toronto, was the
first white child born at York,
1794. Edward H. Rodden, To-
ronto, is a great-grandson of
Edward Wright of the Rangers.
Richard ' Herring, also a
Queen's Ranger, was a juryman
in one of the three memorable
trials that took place in the
York Court House in 1818 in connection with the North-West Com-
pany and the dispersion of Lord Selkirk's Red River Settlement.
Admiral Alan Gardner was prominent in many naval exploits
and was created a baronet for his services in Howe's victory in 1794.
As first Baron Gardner, he was created a peer of the United Kingdom
in 1806.
Fri. 27th The weather so cold that some water spilt near the stove
froze immediately.
Mon. 30'th I walked to the " Old French Fort " and returned by the
Creek. I caught cold.
E. G. S. WRIGHT.
ADMIRAL GARDNER.
212
CHAPTER XIV.
A WINTER AT YORK.
Castle Frank, although in an unfinished state, was habitable in
1794, for early in the year the Governor and his family resided
there In the spring, however, Mrs. Simcoe returned to Niagara,
where life at Xavy Hall was more enjoyable and varied than at
York.
York, Mon., Jan. 6th, 1794 The skin of a cross fox, marked yellow,
black and white, with a dark cross on the back, was brought here and
sold for four dollars; sometimes they are sold for two dollars.
I sketched a likeness of the " Great Sail," who came here to-day. The
Indians call the stars we name Ursa Major, a marten (sable) with a
broken tail. I received from Detroit a stone carved by an Indian into a
head, and when it is known that they have no tools but the commonest
kind of small knife, it is surprising to see it is so well done.
I sketched a Caughnawaga Indian to-day whose figure was quite
antique. He was from the settlement of that tribe on the south side of
the St. Lawrence, opposite Lachine. I have often observed (but never had
more reason to do so than to-day) that when the Indians speak, their air
and action is more like that of Roman or Greek orators than of modern
nations. They have a great deal of impressive action, and look like the
figures painted by the Old Masters.
Thur. 14th There is a great deal of snow on the River Don, which Is
so well frozen that we walked some miles upon it to-day, but in returning
I found it so cold near the lake that I was benumbed and almost despaired
of ever reaching my own house, and when I came near the hill was fright-
fully slippery. Near the river we saw the track of wolves, and the head
and hoofs of a deer. The workmen, who reside in a small hut near the
place, heard the wolves during the night, and in the morning saw the
remains of the deer. The Indians do not kill wolves; they seldom take
trouble that does not answer to them, and the wolves
are not good to eat and their skins are of little value.
Sat. Jan. 18th The Queen's (Charlotte of Meck-
lenburg-Strelitz, Consort of George III.,) birthday. The
weather is so mild that we breakfasted with the win-
dow open. An experiment was made of firing pebbles
from cannon. A salute of 21 guns and a dance in the
evening in honour of the day. The ladies much
dressed.
Sunday 19th The weather so pleasant that we
rode to the bottom of the bay, crossed the Don, which
is frozen, and rode on the peninsula; returned across
the marsh, which is covered with ice, and went as
far as the settlements, which are near seven miles
from the camp. There appeared some comfortable log
houses, inhabited by Germans and some by Pennsyl-
vanians. Some of the creeks were not frozen enough to bear the Gover-
nor's horse, but mine passed very well. He excels in getting over difficult
places and in leaping over logs, which I like very much.
213
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
NOTE. Mr. William Berczy was born in Saxony in 1749. He
visited England in 1791 and became agent for an association that
were owners of a large tract of land in Genesee, N. Y. The inten-
tion was to settle Germans on the lands of the association. But
owing to differences between Mr. Berczy and the chief manager of
the association in Philadelphia, Berczy withdrew his people from
New York and settled them by arrangement with Governor Simcoe
in Markham, near Toronto. Mr. Charles A. Berczy, son of William
Berczy, was born at Niagara in 1794, and died in Toronto in 1858.
He was an acting deputy assistant commissary general during the
War of 1812, and was postmaster of Toronto from about 1840-52.
He married Miss Finch of Greenwich, England, and by her had a
large family. Two of his daughters were noted for their beauty.
JOHN SCADDING'S DWELLING.
(From a Draunng by Mrs. Simcoe.)
Sat. 25th Two soldiers went to Niagara. These expresses are to go
at regular periods by way of a post.
Sun. 26th We went to the Don to see Mr. Talbot skate. Capt.
/Eneas Shaw's children set the marshy ground (the marsh at Ash-
bridge's Bay) below the bay on fire; the long grass on it burns with great
rapidity this dry weather. It was a fine sight, and a study for flame
and smoke from our house. At night the flames diminished, and
appeared like lamps on a dark night in the crescent at Bath.
Mon. 27th I walked below the bay and set the other side of the marsh
on fire for amusement. The Indians have cut holes in the ice, over which
they spread a blanket on poles, and they sit under the shed, moving a
wooden fish hung to a line in the water by way of attracting the living
fish, which they spear with great dexterity when they approach. The
Governor wished me to see the process; we had to walk a half-mile to the
place. There was no snow on the ice, and we were without cloth shoes.
The Governor pushed a large limb of a tree before him which kept him
214
THE SCABBING FAMILY
steady, ana with the assistance of Mr. Talbot I reached the spot where
they were catching maskalonge, a superior kind of pike, and pickerell. I
was almost frozen from looking on, tho' the apprehension of falling kept
me warm while I walked.
Fri. 31st One of the horses drawing hay across the bay fell into an
airhole and was drowned. Mr. Scadding*s cottage burned down.
NOTE. This house was just over the Bon at the Queen Street
crossing on the Scadding farm site of the Toronto Jail. The
Scaddings were one of the pioneer families of Toronto. They
were of Bevon origin and resided near Honiton. John Scadding
was the manager of Wolford, the Simcoe estate, and emigrated to
Canada in 1792, a few months after Simcoe's arrival. A brother,
Thomas, living in Honiton, never emigrated. The brothers married
sisters, the Misses Triges.
John Scadding was a man of excellent execu-
tive ability and one of the best informed in Eng-
land on every branch of farm work. Wolford is
an estate of about 5,000 -acres and at one time
part of it was divided into over twenty farms.
He had three sons, John, Charles and Henry.
John married Emily Playter, daughter of John
Playter. There was no issue by this marriage.
Charles married Jane Bright, the issue being
Henry, William, Edward, Charles, John and So-
phia. Henry, eldest son of Charles Scadding,
married Elizabeth Winder Wedd, daughter of
John Wedd, and sister of William Wedd of Upper
Canada College. Of their issue there were Charles, Bishop of
Oregon, and Henry Crawford Scadding, the well-known physician
of Toronto. Henry (Rev.), third son of John Scadding, of Wol-
ford, married Harriet, daugh-
ter of John Spread Baldwin.
They had a daughter, Hen-
rietta, who married the late
Robert Sullivan, a son of the
late Judge Sullivan. Mrs.
Sullivan lives in Toronto.
The Rev. Br. Henry Scad-
ding' \vas more in the public
eye than the other members
of the Scadding family, and
his familiar face will long be
remembered by the people of
Toronto. He was born in
Bevonshije in 1813 and came
to Canada at the age of eleven
years. His father after settling in Canada returned to England and
brought out his wife and family. Br. Scadding was educated at
Upper Canada College and was the first head boy under Br. Harris.
215
,
*
DR. SCADDING
AT 28 YEARS.
DR. SCADDING
AT 56 YEARS.
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
He graduated at St. John's College, Cambridge, in 1837, and was
an intimate personal friend of Mrs. Simcoe, widow of the first
Governor. He was the incumbent of Holy Trinity Church, Toronto,
for many years, and also principal of Upper Canada College. He
died in Toronto on 6th May, 1901.
Sat. Feb. 1st I am in great spirits to-day, as the Governor talks of
going to Detroit in March and spending a month there very gaily; but
the greatest amusement will be the journey. We shall ride to the Grand
River, from thence to the La Tranche, where canoes will be built, in which
we shall go down to Detroit in a few days, and we shall take Lake Erie
on our return. This scheme particularly pleased me, as it will prevent
our going to Detroit in July, which I had dreaded on account of the
extreme heat of that season.
Sun. Feb. 9th The weather damp, mild and dirty. When will the
end of March arrive? I am quite impatient to set out for Detroit.
Thurs. 13th We rode to town. I galloped on the sands several times.
I saw a Chippawa woman carrying a linen bundle tied up like a doll. I
was told it was "customary for them to carry about this thing for some
months after the death of their husbands. When an Indian intends to
express his determination to get thro' any difficulty he says " Garistakaw,"
and after that always pursues the object.
Fri. 21st Mr. Bouchette (son of the Commodore) has got the " Onon-
daga " off the shoal, and she is not injured by the ice. Mr. Littlehales
came from Niagara.
Sat. March 1st The news received of the death of the Queen of
France. Orders given out for mourning, in which everybody appeared
this evening, and the dance postponed.
NOTE. Marie Antoinette was married to the Dauphin of France,
afterwards Louis XVI. After the fall of the Girondists she was
condemned to death by the Jacobins and guillotined October, 1793.
1 Mon. March 3rd- The weather extremely cold.
Tues. 4th The weather extremely cold. Tho' I wore three fur tip-
pets I was so cold I could hardly hold my cards this evening. This is
the first time we have felt the want of a ceiling, which we have not had
made in our drawing-room because the room was rather low.
Wed. 5th Very cold. I divided the room by hanging across it a
large carpet, which made it warmer. There has so little snow fallen this
winter that it was scarcely practicable to track the deer, in consequence
of which the Indians have been almost starved. A great many of their
women and children come to our windows every day for bread, which we
cannot refuse them, tho' having but a small quantity of flour until the
spring supply arrives, it is inconvenient to give them what they require.
There have been apprehensions that the French Republicans at New
York would attack Lower Canada from Albany this winter, but a mutiny
on board some of their ships carried them to France. If the Americans
were to attack this province I should go to Quebec. I have just received
your (Mrs. Hunt's) letters, in answer to which I can only say " Que diable
avait elle a faire dans cette galere?" What nonsense about the books.
Did people but consider their happiness, the first point of their creed
would be, not to consider things as serious which are of no consequence.
NOTE. "Qu'allait-il faire dans cette galere?" from Moliere's
"Fouberies de Scapin." Scapin pretends that his young master Leandre
has been taken prisoner on a Turkish galley, and that the captain
claims 500 crowns as ransom ; Geronte, a miser, Leandre's father,
half distracted at the idea of having to lose either his son or his
216
DORCHESTER OEDEES ERECTION OF FORT MIAMI.
money, repeats seven times during the scene, "What did he go into
that galley for?" a proverbial French expression.
Fri. 14th As I was riding across the bay I felt the horse sink under
me, and supposing there was a hole in the ice, I threw myself off; the
horse lay down to roll in the snow, and as I was falling I struck him with
my whip, and I believe that prevented him from rolling over me. I was
not hurt, but much afraid he would repeat the trick. I dreamt some time
since that the Governor, Mr. Talbot and I were passing a wood, possessed
by an enemy, who fired ball at us as fast as possible. I was so frightened
that I have never since liked to hear a musquet fired, and I am quite
nervous when I hear of the probability of this country being attacked.
In a magazine we met with a very pretty hymn sung by Sicilian mariners.
It sounds charming played by a band on the water. The master of the
A VIEW ON THE MIAMI RIVER, 1794.
(From a Drawing by Lieutenant Pilkington, copied >> M,-*. Si <:)
band is a German, who boasts of having performed before the King of
Prussia in the great church at Strasburg.
Sat. 15th An express is arrived from Lord Dorchester, who orders
Governor Simcoe, as soon as the navigation of the lakes is open, to go
and establish a fort on the River Miami, in a country claimed by the
Americans some distance below Detroit.
The Governor thinks the order may be put in execution so much
earlier if he goes down the La Tranche to Detroit that he intends setting
out t.o-morrow for the Grand River. This order of Lord Dorchester puts
an end to my scheme of going to Detroit, which is an exceeding great
disappointment to me.
NOTE. In September, 1793, Lord Dorchester, the Governor-
General, who had been on leave of absence in England, returned to
217
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Canada. He sent Governor Simcoe to erect a fort on the Maumee
River, in that part of the Indian territory now in the State of Ohio.
Simcoe was strongly against the establishment of this fort, but he
had to carry out the instructions of Lord Dorchester, who was com-
mander-in-chief. Maumee and Miami are, it is said, the same
word differently spelled by English and French phonetic renderings.
Its meaning is "Walkers," the term being applied to a tribe of Indians
who roamed from Wisconsin to Ohio. They preferred to travel on foot
rather than by canoes. Two rivers, at least, also bore the name, but it
SITE OF FORT MIAMI (MAUMEE).
Fortification looking south across the River.
(From a Drawing in the J. Rons Robertson collection.)
is only in recent years that the different spelling has been used with
regard to the rivers. "Miami" designates a river which joins the
Ohio in the southwestern part of the State of that name, while
"Maumee" is a river running into Lake Erie, five miles northeast of
Toledo. Many historians have, however, written the name of the
latter river as "Miami," as did both Simcoe and Dorchester.
Clearly, the fort built by Simcoe was on the north bank of
Maumee River, five miles from its mouth, where the first rapids occur.
Mr. Avern Pardoe is of this opinion, and in a paper on " The First
Chapter of Upper Canadian History" in the Ontario Historical So-
ciety Papers and Records, Vol. VII., points out that "There is a
218
THE SITUATION OF FORT MIAMI
general misapprehension as to the situation of the Fort which
Simcoe built in the Indian territory. Because it was called Fort
Miami some have supposed it was on that Miami River which is a
tributary of the Ohio River. The fort was situated on the Mauroes
River, not far from Lake Erie, into which the river flows. The
Maumee is called the Miami on some maps of a date subsequent
to Simcoe's operation." "A History of the Maumee Valley/' pub-
lished in Toledo about sixty years ago, says:
"The fort was built on the left bank of the Maumee (the Maumee
of Lake Erie) near the lower limits of the present village of Maumee,
Lucas County, Ohio. Indian Superintendent McKee's agency and
supply house was a mile and a half above this fort and near the
lowest rapids of the Maumee. The British also built another fort
on Turtle Island just outside of Maumee Bay, twenty miles or more
northeast from their Fort Miami."
Sun. 16th I walked half-way to the town with Mr. Talbot. The day
very windy; returned before evening prayers. Mr. Pilkington walked
from Niagara. I copied some sketches he made going to Lake Huron. He
says the thermometer was 5 degrees below zero the 5th of this month at
Niagara. Are you not shocked at the siege of Valenciennes (taken
by the Allies in 1793) or any real action that has lately occurred, being
represented on the stage in London? If English minds become hardened
by seeing such sights as amusements, they will in time be as well able to
become their friends' executioners as the French have been.
Mon. 17th A dance to-night.
Tues. 18th The Governor and Mr. Talbot set out at half-past seven
for Detroit.
Wed. 19th This is the month for making maple sugar; a hot sun and
frosty nights cause the sap to flow most. Slits are cut in the bark of the
trees, and wooden troughs set under the tree, into which the sap a clear,
sweet water runs. It is collected from a number of trees, and boiled in
large kettles till it becomes of a hard consistence. Moderate boiling will
make powder sugar, but when boiled long it forms very hard cakes, which
are better. I saw a number of trees slit to-day as I rode with Mr. McGill
to his farm.
In a month's time, when the best sap is exhausted, an inferior kind
runs, of which vinegar is made. Cutting the trees does not kill them, for
the same trees bear it for many years following. Dr. Nooth. at. Quebec,
showed me some maple sugar which he had refined, and it became as white
as West India sugar. The sap of birch trees will make vinegar.
NOTE. The location of this farm is not known. There is no
record of land granted to McGill in or near York until July, 1809,
when he was granted Park Lot No. 7, one hundred acres extending
from Queen to Bloor Streets and from the west side of Mutual to
the east side of Bond Street. Land has increased in value in Toronto
since the days of 1809. In that year the hundred acres would
probably be worth about a pound an acre. The present assessment of
the lot 'is $2,016,075 for the land and $2,680,412 for the buildings,
or a total assessment of $4,696,487. Add thirty per cent, and the
real present-day value of this hundred acres is $6,105,433. The
McGill Square portion of the lot bounded by Bond, Shutcr, Church
and Queen Streets was sold about 1871 to the Metropolitan Church
219
DIARY OF MBS. SIMCOE
for $25,000. The land is now assessed for $308,280 and buildings
$138,000, a total assessment of $446,280. These prices show the
extraordinary increase in value of lands that were part of the pri-
meval forest a century ago. Mrs. Simcoe, up to the time of her
death, was much interested in the progress of York. Some letters
in her manuscripts refer to the development of the town that her
husband founded.
Fri. 21st The weather extremely warm. Mrs. Richardson spent the
day with me.
Sat. 22nd Abundance of geese and ducks seen, which denotes the
approach of spring.
Sun. 23rd A very hot day.
Tues. 25th I had a party at cards this evening. Some white fish
were sent me to-day from Niagara and dressed for supper; they were the
best I ever tasted.
Thurs. 27th A strong, easterly wind. All the ice went out of the
harbour in two large sheets, each above half a mile long.
Fri. 28th Mr. Gamble, the surgeon of the Queen's Rangers, returned
from the Mohawk village on the Grand River, where he had been to
attend Chief Brant. He brought a letter from the Governor, who went
from the head of the lake to Niagara, sending Mr. Talbot to the Grand
River to order the canoes to be prepared. The Governor expected they
would be in readiness for him to leave Brant's on the 26th. The ice would
not allow them to move sooner. Mrs. Richardson spent the day with me.
NOTE. John Gamble, born in 1756, was son of William Gamble,
of Duross near Enniskillen, Ireland. He came to America in 1779,
serving as regimental surgeon during the Revolutionary War, after
which he settled in New Brunswick. He resided there until 1793,
when he was appointed surgeon to the Queen's Rangers stationed
at Niagara. After the regiment was disbanded at Toronto in 1802
Dr. Gamble moved to Kingston. He died in 1811 and his family
returned to York in 1820. He married Isabella Elizabeth, daugh-
ter of Dr. Joseph Clarke. One of their sons was the late Joseph
Clarke Gamble, barrister-at-law, Toronto, who married, first, Mary
Sayre, daughter of D'Arcy Boulton, a daughter being Miss Sarah
Gamble of Toronto. He took as his second wife Harriet Eliza,
daughter of Honorable John Henry Boulton, and of their issue the
following survive : F. C. Gamble, Deputy Minister of Public Works,
Victoria, B.C.; A. W. Gamble, H. Dudley Gamble, K.C., and A. G.
Gamble, Manager of the Sterling Bank, Toronto; Mrs. C. E. Bowker
(Elizabeth Sophia), of London, England; and Mrs. I. F. Hellmuth
(Harriet Emily), of Toronto.
Sat. 29th Rain and damp weather.
Sun. 30th I walked on the sands.
Tues. April 1st I rode to the town; a delightful evening.
Wed. 2nd I rode.
Mon. 14th I rode. I saw a fine eagle.
Tues. 15th A boat came from Niagara, where the river is still full of
ice. I received some excellent white fish from thence. A boat arrived
from the Bay of Quinte with pork.
220
MBS SIMCOE AGAIN AT NIAGAEA
Wed. 16t.h Walked towards the old French Fort.
Fri. 18th The " Caldwell " arrived from Niagara. She left it the
16th. The harbour was open on the 10th of this month.
NOTE. There is no entry in the diary from Friday, 18th April,
until 2nd May. It was a time of sorrow for the Governor and his
wife, for their little daughter Katherine, born in Niagara on 16th
January, 1793, was buried on the 17th April, 1794. It is rather
peculiar that Mrs. Simcoe makes no reference to the sad event.
Fri. May 2nd Governor Simcoe arrived at six this evening from
Niagara. He rode from the Grand River to the La Tranche, where he
embarked the 29th of March in canoes, and that day he reached the site
intended for New London. The 30th he slept at the Delaware village; the
31st at the Moravian village; the 1st of April at an Indian trader's; the 2nd
arrived at Detroit; two days the snow fell incessantly, so that they were wet
thro' in the canoe, which repelled a slight attack of gout the Governor was
seized with. He saw wild turkeys and eagles, and shot a deer which the
wolves drove down the river. The Governor stayed four days at Detroit,
and then went to Captain Elliott's at the River au Raisin; from thence
rode 30 miles to the River Miami, in Ohio, and stayed at Coll. McKee's,
of Detroit, a little distance from thence.
On the way they passed an Indian fort, and swam the horses over some
creeks. At Coll. McKee's there were very good wild turkeys. On
his return the Governor saw Turtle Island, at the entrance of Miami Bay,
and was detained some days among the Bass Islands, at the west end of
Lake Erie, by contrary winds. They went on some of the islands, and it
being St. George's Day, gave one of the islands that name. The Governor
killed seven rattlesnakes with a small stick on one of the islands, and
Mr. Pilkington shot a sturgeon. The Governor arrived at Fort Erie the
25th of April.
NOTE. Captain Matthew Elliott was Assistant Agent of Indian
Affairs in 1790 at Detroit. In 1795 he became Deputy and in July,
1796, Superintendent. In 1812 when the British entered the fort
at Detroit, the regiment of Indians was led by Colonel Elliott. He
was an intimate friend of Tecumseh and fought at the Battle of the
Thames, where the latter fell. At eighty years of age he took the
active command of the Indians at the assault on Fort Niagara in
1813. His death took place in 1814. One writer paid re-garding
Elliott that "His Majesty has lost one his most faithful and zealous
servants."
Fri. 9th At seven this morning we set off in a boat for Niagara with
the children and Mr. Talbot, intending to reach the head of the lake
to-night, but a very stiff breeze rising ahead about four o'clock, we put on
shore 12 miles short of it. The tents were pitched and fires made. The
Governor and I walked some distance on the beach, and Mr. Talbot amused
himself by barking elm trees as the Indians do, and covering his tent
with it, for it proved a very wet night. The children and Junk, a nurse,
slept on the office boxes in the tent.
Sat. 10th We rose at daylight, breakfasted and set off, but the
weather was so misty that I saw less of the country towards the " Head of
the Lake " than I had expected, and was prevented going into Burlington
Bay. After some hours of wet weather it blew very fresh and cleared up.
A wave washed into the boat, of which no notice was taken, but Collins, a
nurse, laid her cloak on the other side. People sometimes cross from the
221
DIARY OF MES. SIMCOE
16-mile creek to the 40-mile creek (Grimsby), but the Governor does not
like meeting those breezes which rise suddenly on this lake.
NOTE. These creeks are designated by their distance from
Niagara, if on the south side of Lake Ontario, and from Burlington
if on the north side. Oakville on the
north shore is situated at the mouth of
the Sixteen-Mile Creek.
10th We coasted to the forty-mile
creek, forty miles from Niagara, and
passed in at three o'clock. The mouth of
this creek forms a very fine scene; a very
bold spur of the high land appears beauti-
ful in the distance. It is about three miles
off. Some cottages are pretty placed on
the banks of the river, and a saw mill
affords a quantity of boards, which, piled
up in a wood, makes a varied foreground.
It was about six before we reached the
20-Mile Pond, the mouth of another creek.
NOTE. Twenty-Mile Creek runs
into Twenty-Mile Pond before it
reaches the lake. Jordan, Ontario, is
situated three miles from the lake
shore, on high ground, having on its
left a deep valley through which flows
the "twentv-mile creek."
NIAGARA TO THE "FORTY."
(From a Drawing by Mrs. Simcoe.)
10th A small inlet from the lake carries you into this pond, which
is two miles long. The banks are very high, of a fine verdure, and the
summit covered with wood, which was now reflected with the deepest
shade in the water and had a most beautiful appearance, which was soon
heightened by the rising moon, giving more force to the shadow. Two
houses of Coll. Butler's, of the Rangers, were distinguished at a distance.
We had not eaten since eight this morning. I was, therefore, desirous
to get something for the children, and while some salmon we bought of
an Indian as we passed Burlington Bay was preparing for our supper, we
walked half a mile with the children to a farmhouse, which we found
inhabited by some Pennsylvanians, whom Governor Simcoe had assisted
last year at Niagara; we had here excellent bread and milk and butter.
We then returned to the tents, and Francis lay down on his greatcoat on
the grass and went to sleep till his tent was ready for him. We supped
by starlight amid this fine scenery of wood and water; the bright fires of
the soldiers below the hill, contrasted with a dark sky, now and then
brightened by a gleam of moonlight, had a beautiful effect.
Sun. llth We left this beautiful spot about eight o'clock. The
entrance to the Seventeen, Sixteen, Fifteen and Twelve Mile Creeks
appeared pretty as we passed them. It blew so fresh we were afraid of
losing the awning from the boat. It was too showery for me to venture
in the canoe. It was a pretty sight to see how swiftly she glided through
the water. We arrived at Niagara at twelve, and before two 1 wished to
return to York; the heat here was so great, and looking on the land
seemed to me to add to the heat, and was quite disagreeable after having
been accustomed to look on the bay at York, and the river here, tho' half
a mile wide, appears narrow after leaving that expanse of water.
222
AN EARLY NIAGARA MANSION
NOTE. There is no Seventeen-Mile Creek. In all probability
Mrs. Simcoe referred to the Eighteen. There are no villages at the
Fifteen, Sixteen or Eighteen, while what was known as the Twelve-
Mile-Creek is now St. Catharines.
Tues. 13th I went to see Major Smith's house he has built on this
side of the river. It is a very good one. The town here is enlarged and
called Newark.
NOTE. The house referred to by Mrs. Simcoe as Major Smith's
(afterwards Lieutenant-Colonel Smith), was built about 1793, by
his son, D. W. Smith, Surveyor-General of Upper Canada. In his
TWENTY-MILE CREEK (JORDAN, ONT.), 1794.
(From a Dra-wing by Mrs. Simcoe,)
"Tour Through Upper Canada" in 1795 La Rochefoucauld writes of
the house as follows: "In point of size and elegance, the house
of Colonel Smith, lieutenant-colonel in the Fifth Regiment, is much
distinguished. It consists of joiners' work, but is constructed, em-
bellished and painted in the best style; the yard, garden and court
are surrounded with railings, made and painted as elegantly as they
could be in England." D. W. Smith owned what is now called Court
House Square or Market Square, Niagara, his house being situated
on the west side of King Street between Queen and Johnson. In 1798
the house was offered for sale for a free Grammar School, with four
acres as endowment, and again in 1800 at a reduced price. Governor
Hunter, however, opposed the purchase on the ground that the house
was in too exposed a position, being opposite Fort Niagara. Miss
15 225
DIARY OF MRS. S1MCOE
Janet Carnochan says it is not known what became of the house, but
its site was occupied in 1812 by the (government House, which was
burned in 1813.
Niagara was called " Newark " by Lieutenant-Governor Simcoe
in 1792, but both names were used either from habit or fancy. In
1798, however, by Act of the Legislature the name again became
" Niagara."
RESIDENCE OF D. W. SMITH, NIAGARA.
(From a Drawing btj Mm. Simcoe.)
Wed. 14th Mr. Pilkington goes to-morrow to see and to give orders
for fortifying the new post at the Miami, the fort Governor Simcoe built
by order of Lord Dorchester. He gave me some sketches taken on Lake
Erie.
Thurs. 16th Some ladies dined here from the Garrison. After they
went I drove out in the open carriage towards the Landing. The
apprehension of the war with the United States engages my atten-
tion very disagreeably; at the same time I reflect that I should not have
less anxiety in any other part of the world. Had we remained in Eng-
land probably the Governor would now be going on the European con-
tinent, where campaign follows campaign without a prospect of peace,
and here, if a war takes place, the result must be speedily decisive.
Fri. 16th Drove this evening, after dining at Mr. Peter Russell's, the
Receiver-General's, towards the two-mile creek; the road horribly bad.
NOTE. Two-Mile Creek and Pond, where Honorable Peter Rus-
sell lived, is two miles froon the mouth of the Niagara River, due
west, and has been a favorite resort for sportsmen. The new military
quarters lately purchased by the Canadian Government are close
to it.
Sat. 17th So cold an east wind that I had a fire; a large party at
dinner. The new merchant vessel, called the " Governor Simcoe," arrived.
She sails remarkably well.
NOTE. The schooner at first known as the "Governor Simcoe"
and latterly simply as the "Simcoe," was built at Kingston in 1794
226
OPENING OF LEGISLATURE
and was of only eighty-seven tons burthen. She was at first intended
for the North-West Company's lake trade, but in the end her career
appears to have been purely local and confined to Lake Ontario, as
she is frequently referred to in the Gazettes of 1797 and 1798 as
plying between Kingston and Niagara, the latter place being at
that time oi considerably more business importance than the capital
of the province, the town of York. The "Simcoe" was so constructed
that in case of necessity she could be armed with eight four-pounder
guns and a similar number of swivels. The "Simcoe" was the first
vessel built for trade on Lake Ontario. Her first captain was Captain
Murney. John Clarke says in his "Memoirs" (Vol. VII. , Ontario
Historical Society Papers), with regard to Captain Murney: "I
recollect a Captain Murney building a schooner in the County of
Prince Edward, of red cedar, in the year 1800 or 1801, which vessel
was named the 'Prince Edward.' I was on board the following
year, and crossed from Kingston to Niagara. He was a noble
captain of a staunch, good ship. I believe Captain Murney married
a Miss Smith of Kingston. The captain was father of the late
Honorable Mr. Murne}', of Belleville. In the year 1812 this schooner
was in good condition, and was employed as a Government armed
vessel on Lake Ontario."
Sun. 18th Very cold.
Mon. 19th The wind changed and the weather warm.
Tues. 20th I am always glad to have large parties at dinner, for when
I sit alone I do nothing but think of the threatened war in this country.
After the ladies leave me, Mr. Talbot drives me in the gig towards the
Landing, the weather being usually too warm to walk, and the Governor
employs two or three hours on writing in an evening. This evening a
cow was lying in the road, and Mr. Talbot did not turn out of the way,
expecting she would, and, before he was aware of it, one wheel went over
her back, but as she lay quite still the carriage did not overset.
Wed. 21st A large party at dinner.
Thurs. 22nd The Governor and I dined alone. We fished near the
wharf at Niagara.
Sat. 24th We rode in the morning, and were prevented going to the
garrison in the evening by a great fog.
Sun. 25th I persuaded the Governor to ride this evening. We had
not ridden a mile before there came so violent a shower that we were wet
through in three minutes, and the claps of thunder were so loud as to
make the horses start. After changing our clothes we sat down to tea,
and agreed with Mr. Talbot that the rain had been the pleasantest mode
of taking a shower bath, and the extreme violence with which it fell ren-
dered us less liable to catch cold than we should have been under a
gentle shower.
Wed. 28th All the ladies from the garrison, the fort on the east
side of river, and Newark, drank tea here previous to the ball which is to
be given on the 4th of June.
Thurs. 29th The " Mississaga," the " Caldwell " and the gunboats
arrived, bringing some of the members of the House of Assembly from
the lower townships. Capt. John McDonell, of Glengarry, the Speaker,
etc., etc., dined with us.
Mon. June 2nd The House of Assembly met to-day. We went to thp
garrison in the evening and drank tea with Mrs. Smith. The " Missis-
227
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
saga," " Caldwell " and gunboats sailed. Capt. Brooking, of the 17th Regt.,
went in the " Mississaga."
Tues. 3rd The Governor goes to the fort on the east side of the river
almost every day, to see the works which the Engineers are repairing.
I am glad to take the opportunity of crossing the water (and glad he is
induced to take this little exercise) and walking on the common behind
the fort, as I consider the air so near the lake, and where the ground
is high, to be much healthier than our side of the water. The Governor
stayed so late with the Engineer this evening that it was dark, and
Francis fell asleep on the common before he returned to us.
NOTE. Fort Niagara on the east side of the Niagara River was
not handed over by the British, to the Americans until 179(5.
Wed. 4th The ball was held in the Council Chamber. The Governor
and I and Mr. Talbot went into the room after all the company were
assembled. There were 22 couple. I did not dance. The ladies were all
well dressed. We supped at twelve in a room as large as the ballroom,
and we came away at two o'clock. The whole was extremely well managed,
as Mr. Talbot ordered it himself.
NOTE. There is no information extant as to the location of the
Council Chamber. It is believed, however, that it was in a building
which was an addition to Navy Hall.
Thur. 5th I was tired by sitting up late, and went to take an early
dinner at the Fort with Mrs. Smith. The Governor had a large party of
gentlemen to dinner. Mr. Talbot came for me in the evening, and it was
so cold we were obliged to wrap ourselves up in great coats and tippets.
Fri. 6th The Governor went to the Fort Chippawa, and returned at
night wet through. Mrs. D. W. Smith, wife of the Surveyor-General, has
added a boy to her family to-day.
Sat. 7th Francis' birthday was not kept yesterday, as the Governor
was from home. To-day the little cannon Mr. McDonell gave him fired a
salute of 21 guns, and tho' they are not two inches long, made a loud
report and pleased him much. Being three years old, he was dressed in a
rifle shirt and sash, which gave him somewhat the air of an Indian. He
found a dead snake, and gave it as a present to one of the gentlemen
with us. I went to the Fort this morning, and walked in the evening.
Mr. Talbot went towards the Queenstown Landing in his canoe.
Tues. 10th Some Seneca Indians came here from the northern part
of the State of New York. Francis went to see them dance, and after-
wards imitated their dancing and singing surprisingly well.
Wed. llth I rode in the morning, and went to the Fort in the even-
ing, to walk on the common.
Fri. 13th Mrs. Smith, Commodore Grant and 1 went to the Landing
in a boat and dined with Mrs. Hamilton; we carried Francis with us.
Mr. Talbot came to meet us in his canoe in the evening.
Sat. 14th The "Mississaga" arrived from Kingston. Mr. Brooking
came in her.
Mon. 16th Company at dinner. The " Onondaga," 12 guns, sailed
for Kingston. Capts. Fitzgerald and Cleddowe went in her, by whom I
wrote letters.
NOTE. Captain Augustine Fitzgerald had rank in the regiment,
13th July, 1791, and in the army the previous January.
Tues. 17th Capt. Charlton, of the 5th Regt., went in the "Missis-
saga."
DINNER AND BOATING PARTIES
NOTE. Captain Edward Charlton of the 5th is given in the army
list as having rank in the regiment 21st July, 1783. He received
rank as major, 1st March, 1794.
Thur. 19th I went in a boat this evening.
Sun. 22nd Capt. Talbot sailed in the " Governor Simcoe." I dined
at the Fort, and rode on horseback after I came home.
Mon. 23rd A large party of the members of the House of Assembly
dined here.
Tues. 24th Mrs. Mason, wife of Mr. J. M. Mason, of the 5th, and a
party from the Fort, dined here. We went on the water in the evening.
NOTE. John M. Mason, ensign in the 5th, became lieutenant
on 18th October, 1793.
Wed. 25th A large party to dinner, and on the water in the evening.
Mrs. Mason saw a rattlesnake in her garden under some radish leaves.
Fri. 27th I dined at the garrison.
Sat. 28th Mrs. D. W. Smith dined with me.
Sun. 29th A rattlesnake seen under the wharf not 100 yards from our
house, and it is supposed that there is a nest of them there.
Thurs. July 3rd Mr. Tukel arrived from England.
Sat. 5th We dined at Major Smith's, and his grandchild was chris-
tened.
Mon. 7th The House of Assembly (the third session of the first Legis-
lature) prorogued. General Wayne, of the United States, has insinuated
to the Six Nations that the western nations poisoned those of their chiefs
who died at the meeting at Sandusky last year.
NOTE. Mrs. Simcoe must have been in error as to the date of
tlie prorogation of the third session of the first Legislature, for offi-
cial records show that it took place on the 9th July and not on
the 7th.
Wed. 9th Went this evening to the Fort. Mr. Darling stuffed a bird
for me called a Recollect. The appearance of red wax on its brown wings
and the tuft of feathers on its head make it very pretty. (Probably a
waxwing.) The Indians shoot small birds with such blunt arrows that
their plumage is not injured.
Sun. 13th Mr. C. Justice Osgoode sailed for Quebec. The Governor
dined at the mess.
Mon. 14th A large party at dinner.
Tues. 15th Rowed in a boat towards the Four-Mile Creek. Mrs.
Smith and Mrs. Mason went with me.
Wed. 16th The weather very hot. We went out in a boat. While we
were walking in the garden this evening about 50 Indians, men and
women, landed from their canoes and encamped outside the paling,
brought on shore their luggage and made fires; they were met by a party
of Senecas, who sat round their fire. All this passed with so little noise
or bustle that we scarcely heard there were people near us. What a
noise would the encampment of 50 Englishmen have made! But " Rien
de trop " should be the motto of these people. Those who draw best and
make no smoke without producing a marked effect may be compared to
Indians who never appear to make one motion that does not effect the
purpose they intend. We sent some bread and meat to this party. There
is always an appearance of distinctions among these savages; the prin-
cipal chiefs are usually attended by apparently inferiors, who walk
behind them. I call them aide-de-camps. I observe none but the chiefs
shake hands with the Governor.
229
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Thur. 17th We dined in a boat a half-mile from hence r under a steep
rock on the shore of the Niagara River, which affords shade, and to which
the boat is fastened. Down the side of the rock a fine spring pours
rapidly and as clear as crystal.
The Governor was walking on the hill this evening when his shoulder
and finger were struck by a shot fired by a soldier belonging to the guard
tent, who fired at an Indian dog which had taken away some pork. A
shot remained in the Governor's finger, and was very painful. A gentle-
man walking with him was struck and the dog severely wounded, which
caused great concern to the Indian women. An Indian was also struck
by the shot. The Governor immediately gave him the soldier's gun to
appease him, and reprimanded the soldier.
Fri. 18th Major and Mrs. Smith dined under the rock with us.
Sat. 19th The weather still excessively hot, tho' some rain fell.
Sun. 20th A cold, east wind. I breakfasted at the garrison.
THE SERVOS HOUSE, NIAGARA, 1783-1911.
(From a Drawing by Owen Staples, in the J. Ros* Robertson collection.)
Sat. 26th As I much wished to visit the Forty-Mile Creek, the Governor
allotted two or three days for this party of pleasure. Mr. Mayne was
chosen to accompany us, and Francis was one of the party. At two o'clock
we embarked with a fresh east wind, which fell almost immediately, but
has occasioned so much surf that we could not go on shore at the Four-Mile
Creek; about two miles further we landed and dined (Mr. Servos has a
house at. the mouth of the creek). We passed Mr. McNab's house at the
Eight-Mile Creek, and beyond the Twelve-Mile Creek we encamped on a
point without noticing that the field abounded with a coarse weed, which
is such a harbour for mosquitcs that the tent was filled with them, and
we were glad to rise and breakfast at half after three in the morning.
NOTE. The oldest house in Niagara Township is that owned by
Miss Mary Servos, daughter of the late Colonel Peter Servos. It
is built on an eminence commanding a view of the Four-Mile Creek,
now known as Virgil. The house has been altered, but the principal
room, with its heavy rafters, dates back to 1783. This room was used
at one time as a Government store. The Servos family were of Prussian
230
PIONEERS OF THE NIAGARA DISTRICT
origin. Some of the sons were present at the siege of Niagara (1759)
while grandsons served in Butler's Rangers. Four generations of the
Servos family have served in capacities as ensign, lieutenant, cap-
tain and colonel. In 1779, Governor Haldimand gave Daniel Servos
a commission as lieutenant in Colonel Johnson's company of North
American Indians, and in 1788 he received a commission from Lord
Dorchester, to be captain of the first regiment of militia in the Dis-
trict of Nassau. Mrs. Jarvis, wife of William Jarvis, Provincial
Secretary, 1792-1817, writes of the Four-Mile Creek, "There is a
great mill upon it, and the family that it belongs to are Dutch."
INTERIOR VIEW OF SERVOS HOUSE.
(From a Drawing by Owen Staples, in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
Allan Macnab, born 1768, was ensign in the 71st Regiment and
afterwards lieutenant in the 19th Hussars. He served with General
Simcoe in the Revolutionary War, at the conclusion of which he
settled in Canada. He was subsequently Sergeant-at-Arms in the
House of Assembly. His wife was Anne, daughter of Peter William
Napier. Macnab died in 1830. The late Colonel (the Honorable
Sir) Allan Napier Macnab of Hamilton, Ont., who was the first
Queen's Counsel appointed in Canada, was a son of Allan Macnab.
The name Eight-Mile Creek has been replaced by that of Macnab.
Sun. 27th The weather misty, damp and disagreeable. Francis caught
cold, and was so ill that we went on shore at the Eighteen-Mile Creek and
stopped at Sail's, the Indian's house, half an hour.
233
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
We stopped at the Fifteen-Mile Creek, and took a sketch of the mouth
of that river. We dined on the beach at the Twenty-Mile Creek, and
went across the pond to one of Coll. Butler's houses, where we slept, after
taking great pains to smoke the house and fix the mosquito net well, for
this place abounds so much with mosquitos that the farmer does not
sleep in his house from June till September, but sleeps in his barn to
avoid them. The pond is full of wild rice, a marshy weed. The N.B.
wind has filled up the inlet so much that the boat was obliged to be drawn
over sand.
Mon. 28th We rose at six, left Francis with a servant, and set off for
the Forty-Mile Creek. By the time they had drawn the boat over the
sand into the lake, a strong N.W. wind sprung up, which was exactly
ahead of us and prevented our getting to the Forty till two o'clock, tho'
with a fair wind'we should not have been two hours; the fog excessively
thick, and perfectly counteracted our schemes of seeing the country.
However, we walked thro' the village and beyond Green's Mills a little
way up the mountain, far enough to see where the stream dashes over
very dark rocks, surrounded by hemlock, spruce and other picturesque
trees. Green ground the corn for all the military posts in Upper Canada.
His mill stood five miles east of Hamilton, on the Stoney Creek road.
A mile further is a mill and small waterfall, and at a season when the
water is higher the scenery must be wonderfully fine; at present it is
well worth seeing. I drank tea at Green's, and unwillingly left this fine
scenery, of which I had so slight a view. We were no sooner in the boat,
expecting a rapid passage up the Twenty-Mile Creek, v/hen the wind
veered and came right ahead, so that it was ten o'clock before we arrived
at the inlet. It was quite dark, and we were another hour getting the
boat over the sand and rowing to the house. Mrs. Green advised me to
give Francis crow's foot boiled with milk till it becomes red and thick,
which she said would cure the present complaint in his stomach.
There are 100 people settled at the Forty, and there have been but
seven graves in five years. The Governor promises that I shall ride on
the mountain above the Forty this season.
NOTE. In writing of the Forty-Mile Creek, where Green's Mills
were situated, Rochefoucauld, who visited the place in travelling
through Canada in 1795, says: "Forty-Mile Creek was one of the
chief objects of our tour. This stream, which intersects in a straight
line the range of mountains extending from Queens' Town, flows, with
a gentle fall, into the plain, and affords some wild, awful, yet very
pleasing prospects among the mountains. Before it empties itself
into the lake, it turns a grist mill and two saw-mills, which belong
to a Mr. Green, a Loyalist of Jersey, who six or seven years ago
(1788-9) settled in this part of Upper Canada. This Mr. Green
was the constant companion of the Governor on this journey (along
the shore of Lake Ontario). He is apparently a worthy man, and
in point of knowledge far superior to the common caste of settlers
in this neighborhood. His estate consists of three hundred acres,
about forty of which are cleared of wood. He paid one hundred and
t \venty-five dollars for forty acres, through which the creek flows
that turns his mill, on account of the greater value they bear for
this reason, the common price being only five shillings ($1) per
acre. Land newly c 1 eared yields here, the first year, twenty bushels
of corn. The soil is good, though not of the most excellent quality.
They plough the land, after it has produced three or four crops, but
234
THE GOHGK NEAR FORTY-MILE CREEK (QBIM8BT), 1794.
(Frmn a Drawing by Mr*. Simcor.)
AN EXCURSION FROM NIAGARA
not very deep, and never use manure. The price of flour is twenty-
two shillings (4.40) per hundredweight; that of wheat from seven
to eight shillings ($1.60) per bushel. The bushel weighs fifty-two
pounds upon an average. Labourers are scarce and are paid at the
rate of six shillings ($1.20) a day."
Tues. 29th Embarked at nine, rowed a little up the creek among the
wild rice, and then turned to the lake, the wind exactly contrary and so
very fresh that we were obliged to go on shore at the Seventeen-Mile
Creek, where we dined and walked to Schram's farm, where the women
were making straw hats. I gathered crow's foot. Mr. Mayne had a fit
of the ague in short, everything went au contraire during the expe-
dition. We arrived at Niagara before eleven. A fine, clear evening now
we are returned from our tour.
Fri. Aug. 1st The weather insufferably hot at Niagara. We walked
to Mr. Smith's and supped there, which was very pleasant, as the rooms
are so much larger than ours at Navy Hall. Mrs. Smith now resides on
this side of the water, for the change of air for a sick child.
Sat. 2nd The heat extreme. We dined in the boat under the rock.
A thunderstorm drove us into Mrs. Smith's house.
Sun. 3rd The Governor went early this morning to the Tuscarora
village, which is about two miles above Lewiston, N.Y.; dined on the
water and returned early. The thermometer 96.
Mon. 4th The thermometer 96, but Mr. Vandeleur, who is just arrived
from Detroit, calls it cool weather. The thermometer was 101 in Fort
Lernoult (Detroit). The heat and mosquitos do not affect me in the
violent manner they used to do.
Tues. 5th A storm and cold wind.
Thurs. 7th Rode in the evening. The whortle berries of this country
are larger than in England, quite black, and if dried in the s\in make as
good puddings as Levant currants, quite as sharp. The Indians live in
the woods where they grow at this season of the year, and boil quan-
tities of them into cakes.
General Washington was seen last year at the theatre at Philadelphia;
lights were carried before him to the stage box, where he sat in a front
row, Mrs. Washington and the aide-de-camps on the seats behind him, the
music playing " God Save George Washington," to the tune of " God Save
the King." The gentlemen who gave this account went to the theatre this
year and discovered General Washington in a back row of the front boxes,
without attendants, the Vice-President and Mrs. Washington in the same
bench, and no notice taken when he came into the theatre. The next
day a paragraph in the papers asserted that if Washington did not tane
the fort at Presqu'ile he ought to be guillotined.
NOTE. The projected expedition of the Six Nations to clear out
the settlers at Presqu' Isle was abandoned as the President of the
United States interposed to prevent further encroachments by the
Pennsylvanians in that quarter.
Frl. 8th The " Onondaga " called, with Mr. Vandeleur on board.
The " Mississaga " arrived, with the Bishop of Quebec, his brother. Mr.
Mountain, and his son, who is the bishop's chaplain. Mr. Lemoine arrived
in his decked boat from Kingston across the lake. She left Kingston on
Wednesday.
NOTE. The Bishop of Quebec to whom Mrs. Simcoe referred was
the Right Rev. Jacob Mountain, D.D. (the name was originally
Montaigne), first Protestant Bishop of Quebec. He belonged to a
237
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
French Protestant family who settled in England, in Norfolk County,
upon the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. He was educated at
Wyndham and Norwich, and afterwards went to Cambridge. At
the time of his selection for the see of Quebec
he was examining chaplain to the Bishop of Lin-
coln. In 1793, George III. erected the Canadas
into a diocese of the Church of England, and
Dr. Mountain was appointed to take charge. He
arrived in Quebec 1st November, 1793. The
outlcok was anything but encouraging, for there
were but six clergymen in Lower Canada and three
in Upper Canada. However, by indefatigable
diligence and energy, obstacles were overcome,
and Bishop Mountain may well be called the
father and* founder of the Anglican Church in
Canada. He labored here for thirty-two years,
BISHOP MOUNTAIN, his death taking place on 16th June, 1825, at
Marchmont, near Quebec, the seat of the late
General Sir John Harvey, Bart. Three of Bishop Mountain's sons
followed the profession of their father.
In the register of St. Mark's Church, Niagara, an entry on 5th
June, 1793, records the marriage of Ensign Lemoine to Susan John-
son, who was Susannah, the seventh daughter of Molly Brant and
Sir William Johnson.
Sun. 10th I went to church. The Bishop preached an excellent
discourse, Romans 1, 16 v., " I am not ashamed of the Gospel of Christ, for
it is the cower of God unto salvation to everyone that believeth, to the
Jew first, and also to the Greek."
Tues. 12th An express from Detroit. It is now decided that I am
to go to Quebec next month. The hostile appearance Gen. Anthony
Wayne's conduct bears makes the continuance of peace with the United
States very doubtful.
Thurs. 14th The Governor went with the Bishop to see the Falls of
Niagara.
Fri. 15th The Bishop sailed for Kingston. I wrote to Mrs. Caldwell
to take a house at Quebec for me. Should the French and Americans
assault Quebec this winter I shall find more comfort in Mrs. Caldwell's
society than in that, of most others, as such a scene would not be new to
her. She was in the town when besieged by Montgomery, 1775. Coll.
Caldwell was one of the most active of the defenders of it.
Sat. 16th I went to the garrison this evening.
Sun. 17th An express from Detroit.
NOTE. This means that the Government messengers had arrived
with letters and official document?.
Mon. 18th The Governor and myself have colds, which is very
unusual. Notwithstanding, we crossed the water and rode to the Landing
at Lewiston. I had not ridden on that side of the river before. We dined
in the boat opposite Mr. Hamilton's, at whose house we drank tea, and
returned to Navy Hall in the boat.
Tues. 19th The Governor had the shot extracted from his finger. It
was so near the joint that it is feared the finger will always be stiff; it
was a large shot.
238
ARRIVAL OF GEX. SHANK
GEN. SHANK.
Wed. 20th A wet day. Mr. Hamilton dined with us; the cannon sent
to Fort. Erie.
Thurs. 21st Mrs. Hamilton and Mrs. Richardson here.
Sun. 24th Mr. Crooks' new vessel, named " The York," sailed for
Kingston, and Mr. LeMoine's decked boat accompanied her.
XOTE. Mr. Crooks was the brother of the Honorable James
Crooks of the Legislative Council, and a member of the firm of W.
and J. Crooks, West Niagara. His vessel "The York" was after-
wards wrecked at the Genesee River.
Mon. 25th Capt. David Shank arrived with the
detachment from York, to go to the Miamis.
XOTE. David Shank was gazetted lieutenant
in the Queen's Rangers, March, 1777, obtaining
his captaincy October, 1778. He served through-
out the Revolutionary War, and when his corps
was disbanded in 1783, he was placed on half
pay. In 1791, he was recalled to full pa}', when
he joined the Light Infantry battalion, which
was also given the name of Queen's Rangers,
raised in that year in England for services in
Canada under Colonel Simcoe. Shank became
brevet-major, 1st March, 1794, and on Simcoe's
returning to Europe assumed command of the troops in Upper
Canada in the summer of 1796. He became lieutenant-colonel in
January, 1798, and took command of his regiment in the following
April. He remained in the corps until it was disbanded at the
Peace of Amiens. On September 3rd, 1803, he was appointed to
the command of the Canadian Fencibles. He became major-general,
1811, lieutenant-general, 1821, and died in Glasgow, 16th October,
1831. He acquired in York a large tract of land in what is now
the north side of Queen Street, Toronto, near
Trinity College. The portrait is from the
'' original oil painting at Wolford.
Tues. 26th I received the finest red water melons
from York I ever saw.
Wed. 27t>h More detachments from York for the
Miamis.
Thurs. 28th Mr. Sheaffe returned from Oswego
with news that Lord Howe has taken seven sail of
French ships.
NOTK. Mr. Sheaffe was Lieutenant Roger
Hale Sliruffc of the 5th Regiment. He was born
in 1763 in Boston, and was a son of Mr. William
Sheaffe, Deputy Collector of Customs at that port.
He entered the army as an ensign in 1 778 and
rose to the rank of lieutenant in 1780. He served
in Canada from 1787-97, and did important work. Under instruc-
tions from Dorchester and Governor Simcoe, Sheaffe was entrusted
with a mission in connection with settlements by Americans on the
16 241
GEX. SHEAFFE.
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
south shore of Lake Ontario. Both the Governor-General and Gover-
nor Simcoe protested against these settlements. Sheaffe was made
a captain in 1795. In 1811 he became major-general. In recog-
nition of his services at Queenston Heights he was made a baronet
in 1813. He was in command at York in April, 1813, and was
severely and, in the opinion of many, justly criticized for his con-
duct in not remaining in York and assisting the local militia, just
before the attack of the Americans. He was made a general in 1828.
In 1810 he married Margaret, third daughter of Mr. John Coffin
of Quebec, cousin of Admiral Coffin. Sheaffe died in Edinburgh in
1851, and his wife a few years later.
Fri. 29th An express from Detroit announces that General Anthony
Wayne has retired from the Miami Fort after having summoned it to
surrender. He came within shot of it, and found it stronger than he
expected and that there was cannon. The match was lighted to have
fired if he had not retired. Major Campbell, who commanded, showed
great discretion and propriety of conduct. If the Governor had waited
until the opening of the navigation of the lakes to have gone to the
Miamis, as Lord Dorchester proposed, the fort would not have been ren-
dered defensible enough by this time to have intimidated General Wayne,
and war would not have commenced with the United States.
NOTE. After the battle of Fort Recovery, General Wayne, "Mad
Anthony," marched to within thirty miles of Fort Miami, recently
built by Governor Simcoe, and on August 20th drove away the
Indians who, to the number of two thousand, had gathered nearby
under the command of Little Turtle. After this engagement, Major
Campbell, who commanded the fort, wrote to Wayne expressing sur-
prise at the appearance of an American force at
a point almost within sight of the British guns.
General Wayne in reply denounced the erection
of the fortress on American territory as the highest
act of aggression. Then he set fire to and destroyed
everything within sight of Fort Miami.
Governor Simcoe proceeded with Captain Brant
and 150 warriors to encourage the Indians, but
they had no relish for another brush with General
Wayne's forces. Finally in October, 1794, the
United States Secretary Randolph communicated
_^_ with the legation in the United States and mat-
GEN WAYNE * ers were arran o e ^ satisfactorily by a withdrawal
of the troops and the abandonment of the fort.
Major William Campbell, who commanded at Miami, was of the
24th Regiment. He had rank in the army 1st December, 1778, and
in the regiment, 31st May, 1781. He became lieutenant-colonel in
1795.
General Wayne was brevetted major-general in 1783 and in 1792
was appointed major-general and comma nder-in-chief of the army in
the United States.
242
MACKENZIE THE N. W. EXPLORER ARRIVES
Mon. Sept. 1st The merchants gave a dinner to commemorate Lord
Howe's victory of the 1st of June. The Governor and the officers of the
garrison dined with them. Mrs. Smith and some ladies dined with me.
NOTE. Lord Richard Howe obtained a decisive victory off Ushant,
1st June, 1794, for which he received the thanks of Parliament, and
two years after he was made admiral of the fleet.
Thurs. 4th The militia officers dined with the Governor. I dined
with Mrs. Smith.
Mon. 8th Mr. Mackenzie, who has made his way from the Grand
Portage to the Pacific ocean, is just returned from thence, and brought the
Governor a sea otter skin as a proof of his having reached that coast.
He says the savages spear them from the rocks, as the Indians here do
sturgeon. These animals are amphibious, but generally in the sea. Mr.
McKenzie went down the River of Peace near two degrees north of Lake
Superior, and came to the Rocky Mountains, on which rise some rivers
that fall into the Atlantic, and others which empty themselves into the
Pacific ocean. He went down a river which falls into the latter and rises
not 700 yards from the River of Peace. He afterwards travelled 17 days
by land. There are a kind of large sheep on the Rocky Mountains, their
horns the size of a cow's. The Indians near the coast live on fish, which
they are very dexterous in catching; they dry salmon in boxes in a kind
of upper story in their huts. They prepare the roes, beating them up
with sorrel, a plant with acid taste, till it becomes a kind of caviare,
and, when the salmon are dried, boil and mix them with oil. These
savages never taste meat, and think if any was thrown into the river the
fish would go away. One of Mr. McKenzie's men
having thrown the bone of a deer in the water, an
Indian dived and fetched it out, nor would they suffer
water to be ladled out in a kettle in which meat had
been boiled. Are these not veritable fish eaters? Mr.
McKenzie observed those Indians who inhabited the
islands on the coast to be more savage than the
others. The otter skins are sold at a great price,
by those who trade on the coast, to the Chinese.
NOTE. Sir Alexander Mackenzie was born
in Inverness, Scotland, about 1755. He emigrated
to Canada in his youth and became a clerk in the
North-West Fur Company. From 1781 to 1789,
he traded with the Indians at Lake Athabasca,
and in the latter year discovered the river which SIR ALEXANDER
bears his name, and traced it from its source to
its entrance into the Arctic Ocean, where he arrived in July, 1789.
In 1792, he led another exploring party westward to the Pacific. On
his return to England in 1801, he published his "Voyages from Mont-
real to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans." He died in 1820.
243
CHAPTER XV.
MRS. SIMCOE VISITS QUEBEC.
There was always war or rumor of war in these pioneer days in
Canada. Peace between the United States and Canada had been
declared years before, when the War of the Ee volution gave indepen-
dence to the American people. But disquieting rumors were always
floating in the air, and Niagara was a centre where the pros and cons
were always a ready subject of conversation. Mrs. Simcoe had her
fears. She had resolved upon a visit to her friends in Quebec, and
while she felt that she might return to Upper Canada, she was not
too certain, for if the question of peace or war was not speedily set-
tled it would be too late for her to return without considerable dis-
comfort and possibly danger.
However, she said good-bye to her friends, the ladies of the
garrison at Niagara, whom she had invited to tea a day or two before
she determined to sail, but owing probably to adverse winds it was
not till the morning of the 13th September, 1794, that the anchor of
the 'Government schooner "Mississaga" was weighed and Mrs. Simcoe
and her family left Niagara wharf.
Tues. Sept. 9th Mrs. Smith and the ladies of the garrison drank tea
with me. The Governor sets off for Detroit to-morrow, and I shall sail
for Quebec the next day. If I hear, with official certainty, at Quebec that
peace with the United States is agreed on in England, I may return here
this autumn, but if that news does not arrive very speedily it will be
too late for me to return.
KEY TO ILLUSTRATION ON OPPOSITE PAGE.
No. 1. The building on the right represents a building on Ontario Street,
near the piano factory, foot of Princess Street (Store Street).
No. 2. A building on the site of the late ex-Mayor Gaskin's residence,
south-east corner Ontario and Princess Streets.
No. 3. The old Macaulay House, now a butcher shop, standing on south-
west corner of Princess and Ontario Streets, west side of Ontario
Street, and south side of Princess Street.
No. 4. The Protestant Church, back of Masonic Hall of 1792, opposite
the present Market-place.
No. 5. In front is a building now in Market-square, and on the site of
General Bradstreet's batteries.
No. 6. Indian storehouse, near the water's edge, now the site of Folger
and Richardson's wharves.
No. 7. Beyond is vacant space, at present occupied by the Kingston and
Pembroke R.R., and in front of the City Hall. West of vacant
space are buildings on Ontario Street.
No. 8. Site of Swift's wharf at the foot of Johnson Street, near the
Grand Trunk Railway depot.
244
THE SISTER OF THAYENDANEGEA
Fri. 12th The Governor set off this morning for Detroit. Mrs. Smith
came to take leave of me. The " Mississaga " is to sail as soon as the
wind is fair; that not being the case this afternoon, I was dissuaded
from going on board, but having so often seen a wind lost by not embark-
ing before it had risen, I determined to go on board and wait for it, which
I did at six o'clock. Capt. McGill accompanies me, in order to see that the
batteau are properly prepared and attended.
Sat. 13th On board the " Mississaga." At ' six this morning we
weighed anchor. The Fort and Newark looked very pretty under a rising
sun as we left Niagara River. The wind is fair, and we keep the south
shore, so I hope to discern the entrance to the Genesee River. At twelve
the wind changed, and we kept the north shore. Orders were given for
my accommodation that no person should have a passage to Kingston in
the " Mississaga," but I relented in favour of Brant's sister, who was 111
and very desirous to go. She speaks English well, and is a civil and very
sensible old woman.
NOTE. About 1748, Colonel Johnson (Sir William) contracted
an Indian marriage with Miss Mary Brant, " Miss Molly," sister of
Thayendanegea (Joseph Brant), and by her had eight children, Peter,
Elizabeth, Magdalene, Margaret, George, Mary, Susannah and Anne.
Elizabeth married Dr. Robert Kerr, an eminent surgeon, who settled
at Niagara. Susannah, as already stated, became the wife of Lieu-
tenant Lemoine of the 24th Regiment, while three other daughters
married Captain Farley of the 16th Regiment, John Ferguson of the
Indian Department and Captain Earle of the Provincial Navy. The
records of the first Protestant Church (afterwards St. George's),
Kingston, show that on 16th April, 1796, Mary Brant was buried by
Rev. John Stuart, but no mention is made of the place of burial.
Mrs. Grant in her entertaining book speaks of Molly, and says
that Sir William "connected himself with the daughter of an Indian
sachem, who possessed an uncommonly agreeable person and good
understanding and whether ever formally married to him according
to our usage or not, continued to live with him in great union
and affection all his life." Colonel Johnson, in his private diary,
always mentioned Molly kindly. By thus forming an alliance with
the family of an influential and powerful chief, Colonel Johnson
evidently aimed at a more extended influence over the Indians. Nor
did the result disappoint him.
In his will, Sir William ordered the remains of his " beloved wife
Catherine " to be deposited in his burial-place, and provided mot
liberally for his "prudent and faithful house-keeper, Mary Brant"
and for all her children, whom he calls his "natural children." He
divided the remaining part of his money and lands between Colonel
Glaus and Colonel Johnson and their wives, his estate at Fort Johnson
going -to his son, Sir John Johnson.
Sun. 14th We have had a very rough night and a head wind, and
nothing but being on deck the whole day prevented my being very sick.
In the afternoon, being in the centre of the lake, I discerned both the
N. and S. shores. I also discerned a high point on the south shore, called
the Thirty-Mile Creek from Niagara, in sight of the Duck Islands, a few
miles off Point Traverse (in Prince Edward County) and N.E. of it.
247
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
NOTE. These are two islands, known collectively as The Ducks.
The larger island is the further to the east in the lake and is called
the Main Duck, while the smaller island, close to the south-eastern
extremity of Prince Edward County, is called the False Duck.
Sailors frequently speak of the islands as the "Main Ducks" and
"False Ducks," but the name should not be pluralized. The two are
properly spoken of as The Ducks. They are so named either from
their shape at a distance they roughly resemble ducks in the water
or from the fact that wild ducks formerly abounded in the vicinity.
The trip was slow and must have been rough, for the vessel did not
reach Kingston until 8 a.m. on the 15th, or fifty hours from Niagara
to Kingston, a distance of nearly 200 miles.
Mon. 15th- A very rough night. At eight this morning we anchored
in Kingston harbour. Capt. McGill went on shore and engaged the only
King's batteau which was there, and hired one of the merchant's for my
baggage. Capt. Porter came on board to know my commands, and some
ladies called upon me. At twelve we got off in the batteau, which had a
comfortable, low awning of twisted osiers or willow whose twigs are used
for making baskets, which was more convenient at this season, when the
weather becomes cold, than the high wooden awnings. In less than half
an hour it began to rain, and continued the whole day. We went only 18
miles to Gananowui. Carey's house being shut up, we went to Fairfield's,
close by the mill. Mr. (Colonel) Joel Stone, a Loyalist, who settled in
Gananowui about 1790, is building at the mouth of the Gananowui River.
Capt. McGill slept in the boat. Fairfield accommodated me with a room.
NOTE. Captain Richard Porter of the 60th was captain from
26th November, 1784, and major from 1st September, 1795.
A coincidence in the history of the 60th Regiment in North
America is that the 2nd and 3rd battalions, as part of the first Eng-
lish garrison at Quebec, were present in September, 1759, when the
British ensign was hoisted over the captured city by an officer of
the Royal Artillery; arid in November, 1871, one hundred and twelve
years later, a detachment of the 1st battalion of the 60th, the remnant
of the last English garrison of Quebec, consigned the Imperial flag
to the keeping of another artillery officer, whilst the flag of the Do-
minion of Canada was hoisted in its stead.
William Fairfield, a U. E. Loyalist, was one of the pioneers of
Ernestown, in all probability settling there about 1788. In 1794
he appears to have been in the vicinity of Gananoque, where he had
a grist mill. He was not the original holder of the land at Gananoque,
but must have rented it from Sir John Johnson, whose grant of
land was on the east side of Gananoque River. The first document
registered in the Registry Office at Brockville was on the 13th De-
cember, 1797, at eight o'clock in the evening, S. Sherwood, Deputy
Registrar. There could be no deed of land until 1796 or 1797 because
the first patents were issued then. William Fairfield was for many
years on the Commission of the Peace and was a member of the
Provincial Parliament. He died in Ernestown in 1816.
248
COL. JOEL STOXE OF GAXAXOQUE
Joel Stone, a II. E. Loyalist, afterwards known as Colonel Stone,
was born in Guilford, Conn., 7th August, 1749. He was a de-
scendant of William Stone, one of the emgirants who sailed from
London, Eng., in May,1639, landing at Xew
Haven, Conn., in July. He served uiu'er
Sir William Howe in the Revolutionary War and
remained in New York until the evacuation of
the British in 1783. In July of that year he
sailed for England to recover a legacy to which
his wife was entitled. His stay there was pro-
longed, for he did not return until 1786, arriv-
ing in Quebec on 6 ton October. In 1792, he
settled at the junction of the Gananoque and St.
Lawrence Rivers, the Crown having given him a
grant of land on the west side of the Gan- COL. JOEL STONE.
anoque River. He founded the town of Gan-
anoque. In 1793, his wife died, and in 1799, he married a second
time. Stone was the first Collector of the Port, and on 2nd January,
1809, he was appointed colonel of the 2nd Regiment of Militia,
County of Leeds. He did not remain long in command, feeling
obliged on account of declining years to resign. This he did in 1812.
His death took place in Gananoque on 20th November, 1833.
By his first wife, Leah Moore, Colonel Stone had a son and a
daughter ; the former died unmarried, but his daughter, Mary, married
Charles McDonald, of Gananoque (an elder brother of the Hon.
John McDonald), and of this marriage one of the descendants, a
grandson, is Mr. Charles McDonald of Gananoque, Civil Engineer.
Stone's second wife was Abigail Coggswell, widow of Abraham
Dayton. There were no children by this marriage, but Henrietta
Maria Mallory, a grand-daughter of the Colonel's second wife, became
a member of the family, and in due course married John McDonald
(afterwards Hon. John McDonald). He was a member of the Leg-
islative Assembly of Upper Canada, and, at the Union in 1841, was
called to the Legislative Council of the new Province of Canada.
Of this marriage the sole male representative of the name of McDonald
is Judge Herbert S. McDonald of Brockville, Ont. Herbert M.
Mowat, K.C., of Toronto, and John McDonald Mowat of Kingston
are grandsons on their mother's side.
Mon. 15th The baggage boat was not arrived at Gananowui, and my
boudet or canvas stretcher being in it, I was at a loss what to sleep on,
till I recollected some planks I had in the boat. I laid one of these, sup-
ported by a small box at each end, and put a carpet over it, on which I slept
admirably. Collins had a small room within mine for herself and the
children. Fairfield built the little vessel I saw lying in Kingston Harbour.
She contains 120 barrels, and is gone for flour to the Bay of Quinte. Fair-
field told me he had been 36 miles back in the country towards the Ottawa
River; the Gananowui runs within half a mile of a river that falls into the
Ottawa. The Indians carry over that portage. He saw many lakes eight
249
COL. JOEL STONE OF GANANOQUE
or ten miles long. He went to catch whitefish, but having no means of
taking them but spearing he only killed 23. They are very difficult fish
to spear, and he had not nets. The land above this house is considerably
higher than any in this part of the country, and falls every way from this
height. Here are abundance of ground squirrels, but the men do not take
the trouble of skinning them when killed, tho' the fur is beautiful. Mr.
Stone is building a saw mill here, opposite Sir. J. Johnstone's. It will
work 15 saws at once. Stone's grant of land is on the west side of the
river and Johnstone's is on the east side.
HOUSE AND MILL, NEAR GANANOQUE, 1794.
(From a Drawing by Mrs. Simcoe.)
NOTE. Judge McDonald, of Brockville, is under the impression
that this view is on the St. Lawrence and not on the Gananoque
River, 1794, as it would appear that the latter is shown at the right,
where it enters the St. Lawrence, and yet there could not have been
a mill on the bank of the St. Lawrence, there being no water from
that source. It is just possible that the buildings shown were erected
by Colonel Stone along the bank of the St. Lawrence at this spot,
and that there is an error in calling one of them a mill.
Tues. 16th This morning Mr. Stone sent me excellent cream and
butter. We did not embark till ten. This morning was so wet that the
Canadians were unwilling to move. The sun shone a little while, but the
afternoon proved wet, and it was dark before I came to Capt. Cowan's,
opposite Oswegatchie. Here I had a large room with six windows in it.
Wed. 17th We embarked at six. The tea kettle was boiled, and I
breakfasted in the boat; showery weather. Passed the rapid called Les
Gallettes (Gallops rapids off Pointe Galloppe in Edwardsburgh). The
waves, dashing against the bottom of the boat, sounded as if she struck
on rocks, and their appearance more agitated than those we see in a ship-
wreck on the stage. A mile before we came to the Long Sault there was a
violent storm of thunder, lightning and rain, and as we were about to
descend the rapid another violent storm arose, which was a good accom-
paniment to a terrific scene. This rapid is very long, but it did not appear
to me so frightful as Les Gallettes, tho' the current is so strong for the
space of some miles that we went nine miles in the hour without sailing.
One man steers; the rest row occasionally, but the Canadians are so
accustomed to the navigation that with empty boats the man who steers
is often the only one awake.
I dined in the boat; at three stopped to deliver a letter at Glengarry
House, where Major McDonell lives. At four a thunderstorm occasioned
us to stop at the boat-house on Lac St. Francis, in that part of the St.
Lawrence which widens above Coteau du Lac, where Mr. McGill was for
staying the night; but I thought it too early, and sailing across the lake
a good way from shore a violent gale of wind arose when we were in a
line with Pointe Mouille. It thundered, rained, and became perfectly
dark; the boat tossed violently, the children crying and Collins sighing.
The wind blew so strong off shore that I feared being driven out into the
lake and lost, or driven to the United States shore. Capt. McGill thought
there was some difficulty, as he promised the men rum if they exerted
250
FIRST ADJUTANT-GENERAL OF MILITIA
themselves to get to the shore, which they at last did, and I waited half
an hour, intending to sleep in the boat rather than proceed in such weather
five miles to the Pointe au Bodet. There was no house nearer. The
weather then clearing up and growing calm, I consented to proceed, pro-
vided they kept close to the shore, which they did, and about ten we
arrived at Pointe au Bodet. Mr. John McDonell, the Adjutant-General of
Militia of Upper Canada, had arrived there, and he gave me up his rooms,
in which were large fires, very comfortable after the cold, rough evening
I had been out in.
NOTE. Mr. J. A. Macdonell of Glengarry states that John Mac-
donell "was appointed by Lieutenant-Governor Simcoe to be first
adjutant-general of militia in Upper Canada, and was the founder
of our militia system."
I find among my Simcoe manuscript an account of part of the
journey, in the handwriting of Mrs. Simcoe, though the heading is not
written by her. It reads :
A SIMCOE RELIC.
"A Short Journal, with Rough Sketches contained in a letter
addressed by Mrs. Simcoe to her husband, the Lieutenant-Governor,
in .1794, when on her way in a covered boat from Kingston to Mon-
treal and Quebec."
It is in the form of a letter to Governor Simcoe written on the
17th September, 1794, and really a more extended account than what
appears in the diary proper for the 15th-17th September. The first
paragraph is undated. It refers to Mrs. Simcoe's friends who were
evidently visiting Kingston and who desired to go east to Montreal,
and states that :
" Miss M'Donell, Miss Bouchette, Capt. Porter and Mr. Salmon came
on board the ' Mississaga.' Capt. Bouchette wanted to refuse the ten
guineas. He say'd it was too much. I believe he was very well satisfied."
Mon. Septr. 15th Left Kingston at half-past twelve in a boat with a
comfortable awning of hoops and oil cloth, accompanied by another batteau
with the baggage; a fine and strong wind, delightful sailing. At four the
wind came ahead, and we were obliged to row. In half an hour after
we left Kingston it began to rain hard, and continued to rain the whole
night.
Gary's house shut up, as he was gone to Kingston. Rained too hard
for me to pitch the tent or sleep in the batteau. Slept at Fairfield's house,
close by the mill at Gananoqui. He is the farmer's son who built a small
vessel at Gananoqui. She is now gone for a load of flour to the Bay of
Quinte. I think I saw her in the harbour at Kingston. She has carried
120 barrels; looks not much larger than the " Onondaga." Mr. M'Gill
stayed in the batteau.
NOTE. The vessel which Mrs. Simcoe mentions as having been
built by Fairfield was no doubt built by him for Colonel Joel Stone.
This contention is borne out by the fact that a letter dated 2nd Feb-
ruary, 1793, at Gananoque, written by Stone to Governor Simcoe,
says : "Permit me to inform your Excellency that I have recovered my
251
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
health some time in November last from ;
Lake Ontario last July, since which I
FAIKFIELD'S HOUSE AND MILL.
(From a Draining by Mrs. Simcoe.)
i fever I took at the head of
am commissioned to build
a schooner of 40 tons
burthen, on my premises
here. She is to sail out
of this river and is to be
called the 'Leeds Trader,'
and I expect will sail by
the first of July next."
As all the . land on the
west side of the Ganan-
oque Eiver, near Ganan-
oque, was granted by the
Crown to Colonel Joel
Stone and that on the east side to Sir John Johnson or his heirs, it
would appear that Fairfield must have been a "squatter" or an em-
ployee, and therefore may have been captain of Colonel Stone's
vessel.
Fairfield say'd he had been 35 miles back from his present house to
catch whitefish, but having no means but spearing, and they are remark-
ably swift and difficult to spear, he took but 23. Was out two nights.
There are many lakes eight or ten miles long. The land at Gananoque
is very bad between, fit for nothing, but twelve miles back becomes very
good.
NOTE. Mr. Charles
Britton, a resident of
Gananoque for many
years, fixes the site of
Fairfield's mill on the
east side of the river on
lot 1027 in the village of
Gananoque back of Skin-
ner and Company's fac-
tory. The Gananoque
Eiver runs northwest
from the St. Lawrence
and a mile north of the
town it inclines east and
continues northeast from
Kingston.
Tues. 16th A very wet morning after a night of incessant rain; the
Canadians would not stir, so I waited to breakfast. Mr. Stone, who is
building a mill opposite Fairfield's, came, and was extremely civil; brought
butter and milk. About nine the rain ceased. I walked to look at the
mill, and embarked. Gave a dollar to the people. Mr. M'Gill said Stone
was too much of a gentleman to offer anything to. The mill he is build-
ing is to have 15 saws. He says there is a portage of only half a mile
from the Gananoqui to the Rideau. The Indians carry over it, that is, 50
or 60 miles to the Grand River. He say'd the hill behind Fairfield's house
is the highest ground anywhere about the country, the land descending
252
VIEW FROM FAIRFIELD'S HOUSE.
(From a Drawing by Mr*. Simcoe.)
POLITENESS IX THE OLDEX TIME
from it every way. Fairfield say'd there is a fall 30 miles up the Ganan-
oqui 50 feet high, and many slight rapids. About twelve the day grew
fine and pleasant. Our Canadians are old and do not sing; however, I
made them sing " Trois Filles d'un Prince," tho' indifferently.
Capt. Porter say'd to Mr. M'Gill the " Sophia " might be two weeks
in one trip to Oswegatchie. Rain in the afternoon. Got on to Capt. Cowan's,
just opposite Fort Oswegatchie, an admirable large room, six large windows
in it, 12 feet high. Capt. Cowan spoke much of the weakness and unpro-
vided state of the inhabitants in case of war with the States; he par-
ticularly mentioned as dangerous the circumstances of settlers who call
themselves residents under the King's Government (but some whose
loyalty is very doubtful), building saw mills on the opposite shore. One,
Honeywell, in particular, who had been a notorious rebel, and since his
residence under the King's Government was once confined at Kingston for
improper behaviour. This man has a saw mill directly opposite this
house, with many thousand boards cut. Capt. Cowan says these mills
afford ample provision for rafts, on which the Americans might pop over
and ravage this country. A well-known road thro' the woods from Oswe-
gatchie to Crown Point, in Lake Champlain, or to Lake George, is so pass-
able that 30 or 40 head of cattle pass with ease in eight days.
XOTE. Captain David Cowan, R.X., was one of the early settlers
of this part of the country. His home "opposite Fort Oswegatchie"
(Ogdensburg), would be Prescott, in the County of Grenville.
In 1819 he lived in the Township of Charlotteville, County of Xor-
folk, but owned some 450 acres of land in the Township of Pittsburg,
six miles west of Gananoque, -which was granted him in recognition
of his services during the War of 1812. He was an uncle of Mr.
Alexander Cowan of Pittsburg Township, Frontenac County, U.C.
Miss Margaret Cowan, a daughter of Mr. Alexander Cowan, married
the late George B. Holland, of Toronto, whose descendants live in
Toronto, Gananoque and Brockville.
An interesting mention is made of Captain Cowan in the Memoirs
of John Clark, of Port Dalhousie, in Volume VII. of the Ontario
Historical Society Papers and Eecords. It reads:
"There were two worthies amongst us equal, if not superior, to
Beau Xash, in the old times. These were Captain Cowan, of the navy,
and Staff-Surgeon Fleming of the army. They in every particular
were the essence of politeness. The Chippewa (sic) Bridge in that
day was nearer the mouth of the Chippewa (sic) River than the
present bridge, consequently was of greater span. One fine morning
these two gents being at Chippewa, were crossing the bridge at oppo-
site ends, and both being somewhat halt in their legs, when they
stepped on the bridge, commenced to bow to each other and did not
stop bowing till they met each other in the centre when they took a
most cordial grip and passed on. So much for Captain Cowan and
Dr. Fleming of bygone days' politeness."
Wed. 17th Embarked at six; fine wind, showery. Passing the first
rapid at Chimney Island the water is very frightful. A little below John's
Town saw a deer crossing the river, a canoe trying to overtake it. The
deer swam up the stream and got ashore. At half-past nine passed Matilda
township and the Rapid Plat, 20 miles. At half after three Mr. M'Gill
wanted to give a message from you to the Speaker (John Macdonell), so
253
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
we stopped for him to deliver it, and I take the opportunity of sending
this book, that you may know we got safe and well so far and had a
pleasant journey. Fray give this book to Mr. D. W. Smith, to send back
to me immediately, for I mean to make some pretty drawings from these
rough sketches.
I should not have sent you this rough one, but that I know you will
be glad in any way to know myself and the children are well, and as com-
fortable as is possible to be anywhere in your absence.
We have had a good deal of thunder and rain to-day. A thunder-
storm was hardly passed when we entered the Long Sault. Had it con-
tinued, what a flneward element. The Long Sault Rapid was less alarm-
ing than I expected, but very grand and fine, and nothing but reason
would keep one from being afraid. Your sight must be terrified, tho'
knowledge makes you rest satisfied.
Ever most attachedly yours,
E. SIMCOE.
The going down the river is so fine a thing altogether I wish for you
every moment. I should be in ecstasies if you were here to partake of
them.
Thurs. 18th Embarked at six, and reached the Cedar Rapids, opposite
the village of that name, at ten; from thence I went in a .caleche to the
Cascades between Grand Island and Isle Perault, from whence I was two
hours going in the boat to La Chine, eight miles above Montreal. I waited
there two hours for a caleche, and set out in it with Francis, but the road
was so rough and the carriage so indifferent that I was obliged to stop
and take Collins with me to hold the child, or we should have been shaken
out. I was so fatigued with this eight miles to Montreal that I deter-
mined never to go in a post caleche again. The carriage was driven
tandem, the first horse tied to the other by a rope, which did not in the
least confine him. The horses generally went different ways and at a
great rate.
I went to Mr. Gray's at Montreal, but his house being under repair,
Mr. Frobisher, another merchant, requested me to be at his house, where
I should be better accommodated, and indeed it is elegantly fitted up. He
sent his carriage for me.
NOTE. Edward William Gray was a man well known in military,
civil and social circles in Montreal. He was born on the 4th De-
cember, 1742, in England and came to Montreal in the autumn
of 1760 in the "Vanguard," man-of-war, and was initiated into
Freemasonry on 2nd October, 17GO, when the ship was in the St.
Lawrence, in front of Quebec. His Masonic certificate is in the Arch-
ives Department at Ottawa, and it is the earliest certificate known
to the craft in Canada. In the Masonic institution there were in the
olden time three kinds of warrants given to lodges. A civil warrant
was for a lodge composed of citizens of a certain place. Another
warrant was known as a "sea warrant," for members on board a
British man-of-war, while a third warrant was known as a "field
warrant" given to soldiers in a British regiment. It is permissible
to hold these lodges either in the quarters of a regiment or on board
a man-of-war "in the most convenient place adjacent to the ship."
In January, 1760, a warrant was issued for a lodge on board the
"Vanguard," man-of-war, of which Thomas Dunckerley was W.M.
The lodge on the occasion of this initiation was held no doubt in a
lodge room in the city of Quebec, for there were a number of military
254
COLD WEATHER IN THE ST. LAWRENCE
lodges stationed in the fortress, that possessed Masonic warrants. Wil-
liam Gray was postmaster of Montreal for many years, and sheriff of
the District of Montreal. His Commission as Deputy-Provost-Marshal,
corresponding to that of sheriff, is dated 15th June, 1765. He was
appointed Deputy Public Appraiser and Vendue Master on llth
August, 1766, and was promoted to the office of Provost-Marshal on
1st May, 1775. He was appointed major of a corps of volunteers
raised amongst the merchants of Montreal at the time of the Ameri-
can invasion, and for services rendered was afterwards given the
rank of colonel, commanding the English militia in the city and
suburbs of Montreal. He died on 22nd December, 1810.
Fri. 19th Mrs. Frobisher came from her country house to dine with
me. 1 saw the large sheep's horn Mr. Mackenzie, the North-West explorer,
brought from the Rocky Mountains. Major Duke called to enquire
whether I would have men from the 26th to row my batteau, but I pre-
ferred the Canadians. Mr. Smith, of the 7th Fusiliers, brought me letters
from England.
NOTE. Major George Duke's first commission in the 26th is
dated 10th September, 1779, with rank of captain. In October, 1793,
he was in command, as major, at St. John's and Isle-aux-Noix,
Lower Canada. In the army list his name is given also as "Charles"
Duke, with the statement that he "sold out," though the date is not
given.
The 26th, or Cameronian Regiment, was formed in 1689, deriving
its popular designation of "Cameronians" from the sect (named after
one of its first preachers, Richard Cameron). The regiment was
formed at the time when the religious persecution by the Stuart
family led many of their subjects of the Presbyterian persuasion
in Scotland to take up arms. In 1787 the regiment was stationed
at Quebec, in 1789 at Montreal, and in 1790 at Niagara, and at
various other stations in Canada until 1800, when it returned to
England. The unfortunate Captain John Andre, who joined the
26th from the 44th Regiment, was commissioned on 18th January,
1777. He was executed on 2nd October, 1780. Andre was a personal
friend of Governor Simcoe.
Sat. 20th A very wet day, so I stayed at Mr. Frobisher's.
Sun. 21st I left Montreal at nine, with a good many buffalo skins in
the boat, as the weather grows very cbld, and every ten leagues I feel it
more so; the weather very windy and disagreeable; an unpleasant squall
near Varennes, on the river near Montreal. We afterwards passed St.
Sulpice, on the north shore of the St. Lawrence, and La Valtrie, a pretty
village among oaks, and reached D'Autray, thirteen leagues from Mont-
real, at six o'clock. I walked the last half-mile to warm myself. I had a
good fire at the Post House, and wrote till eleven. I was charged six
shillings for rooms, fire and milk. I carried tea, cold tongue and fowl, or
herrings, which composed our supper.
NOTE. Dautrey, spelled Dautre on old maps, is on the north
shore of River St. Lawrence, about half-way between the village of
Lanoraie and the River des Chaloupes.
255
. DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Mon. 22nd Set out at six; passed Berthier, a village on the north
shore, at twelve; came to N. York, missed the house we were directed to go
to, stopped at another while the men lighted their pipes; previous to pass-
ing Lake St. Pierre had a distant view of Maskinonge, in the county of
that name, RiviSre du Loup (the county town of Maskinonge) and
Machiche; at seven arrived at Three Rivers, one of the oldest towns in the
province, founded in 1618, and had a good fire at the Maison de poste, and
very cheap (a much better house than the inn kept by an Englishman,
where, instead of two dollars, I might have paid eight).
N OTE . The MSS. reads 1ST. York. The map drawn by Mrs.
Simcoe shows "1ST. York" on Lake St. Peter. There is no trace of
the name now.
After drinking tea (or supper) and the children are gone to bed, I dress
my hair, which I have not time to do in the morning, change my habit,
and lay down on a boudet (or folding bed) before the fire, covered with a
MONTREAL EAST TO POINT DU LAC, 1794.
(From a Drawing by Mrs. Simcoe )
fur blanket. I do not undress when I have not my bed, which is the case
at present. I came 21 leagues to-day, and felt it very cold, but the chil-
dren mind it so little that Francis will not keep on his gloves.
Tues. 23rd Left Three Rivers after breakfast. In the afternoon the
weather was particularly fine, and the scenery between Grondines and
Cap Sante was peculiarly beautiful, illuminated by the setting sun. The
churches of Deschambault and Cap Sante are very picturesque objects
among the wood, and the, high ground near the latter is of the finest
verdure, covered with large, detached trees, has a very fine appearance;
indeed, going down the St. Lawrence affords the most delightful scenery,
whether it be between Kingston and Montreal, among the numberless
wooded islands of all sizes, or the woody, rocky shores bordering the
rapids, and the transparent clear waters.
NOTE. Deschambault, a village in Portneuf County, P.Q., on
north shore, forty miles above Quebec. 'Cap Sante is 31 miles from
Quebec. During the French regime it was a French post and after
the Battle of the Plains the army was quartered in the vicinity for
several months.
256
ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC
Tues. 23rd From Montreal to Quebec the country is more diversified
by villages and houses, and is very pretty, excepting a part of it in passing
Lake St. Peter, which is flat and low, but from Deschambault it again
becomes fine. The opposition of a strong current makes the voyage up the
river very tedious, but the velocity with which the boat passes down
affords incessant variety of objects, and nothing can be pleasanter. I
cannot tho' but regret leaving the climate of our upper country (Upper
Canada), the warmth of which gives an idea of comfort to the most
uninhabited scenes.
We came 19 leagues to-day, and arrived at six at Cap Sante, and I
found myself at the house where I had met with so much civility on my
way from Quebec. The woman recognized and welcomed me with her
usual French politeness; by great industry she had saved some money to
make the miserable cottage it had been formerly fit for the reception, of
travellers. She said my calling there accidentally had made her think of so
doing. Her husband is quite uncivilized, but she had been educated at a
convent. An orchard full of fine apples was in great beauty, just ready to
MAP OF ROUTE FROM THREE RIVERS TO QUEBEC.
(From a Drawing by Mrs. Simeoe.)
be gathered. I had much satisfaction at seeing the progressive state of
improvement making here. I was made happy in receiving a letter to-night
from Mrs. Caldwell, pressing me in the kindest manner to reside with her
till my house at Quebec could be prepared for me.
Wed. 24th The tide prevented my leaving Cap Sante" till nine o'clock.
Fine weather. Passed the mills at Jacques Cartier; landed at a romantic
spot named Cap Rouge, three leagues above Quebec. I walked a mile to
the Maison de Poste, dressed myself, and went in a caleche four miles to
Belmont, where I met with the most friendly reception that was possible.
Thur. 25th I received a great many visits from my acquaintances at
Quebec, who all appeared glad to see me.
Fri. 26th Many more visitors. Coll. Caldwell and Miss Johnson
dined at St. Foix (St. Foye), but I could not prevail on Mrs. Caldwell to
leave me, and I could not accept Lady Dorchester's invitation, as my
clothes had not arrived.
Mon. 29th The Bishop's family and Coll. and Mrs. Despard dined here.
NOTE. Mrs. Despard was the wife of Lieutenant-Colonel John
Despard of the 7th Regiment who had brevet rank as colonel from
13th July, 1791.
17 257
DIAEY OF MES. SIMCOE
Tues, 30th Coll. Caldwell proposed my taking his house at "iSans
Bruit," which I felt disposed to do. I went to see it to-day. The weather
was very cold and some snow fell, which gave me an unfavourable idea
of Sans Bruit, and I did not like the thoughts of so cold a place. I called
on Mrs. Mountain, wife of the Bishop, at Powell Place, and on Mrs. Despard
at Woodfield. It is said that peace is settled between Great Britain and
the United States, but as I have not heard it officially (or even in that case
could I tell how Gen. Wayne may previously have acted at the Miami) I
cannot venture to return with Mr. McGill to Niagara. He sets out to-day.
Some snow fell.
Wed. Oct. 1st Coll. and Mrs. Caldwell went to their mill. Miss John-
son and I drove to Quebec.
Thurs. 2nd I breakfasted with Mrs. Murray, and went to the house
offered me in Palace Street, which I liked very well. Coll. and Mrs. Cald-
well returned to dinner. We drank tea at Mr. Nathaniel Taylor's, Deputy
Commissary General.
NOTE. Mrs. Murray was the wife of Bichard Murray, who is
given in the list of Protestant house-keepers as a Justice of the
Peace in 1794.
Tues. 7th We dined at the Bishop's; a very large party there, and
Coll. and Mrs. Despard.
Wed. 8th Miss Johnson and I went to Quebec.
Sun. 12th Coll. Beckwith and several friends dined here. Coll. Cald-
well, having found that I was the daughter of his old friend, Coll. Gwillim,
who fought at Quebec under Wolfe, and with whom he stayed some time
In London after the death of Genl. Wolfe, is now doubly kind and inter-
ested about all my concerns.
NOTE. (Colonel) George Beckwith was Acting Adjutant-General
at Quebec in 1794.
Mon. 13th I took possession of my house in Palace Street. Dined at
the Chateau.
Thurs. 16th Quebec I have bought a covered carriole, but until the
snow falls I cannot use it. Coll. Caldwell sends a caliche for me to go to
Belmont, as it does not seem worth while to buy one for so short a time
as I suppose it will be possible to use it.
Fri. 17th Dined and slept at Belmont.
Sat. 18th Came home; 22 visitors this morning.
Wed. 22nd Dined and slept at Belmont.
Thurs. 23rd Came here; a great many visitors this morning. The
certainty of peace relieved me from so much uneasiness that I scarcely
seem to feel the banishment from the upper country as much as I ex-
pected to have done. Yet at times I have doubts whether an American
mob may act in opposition ,to their executive government.
I have been amused by a play called " Carthusian Friar," written by a
lady, an emigrant. Coll. Caldwell calls almost every day to know whether
offers of service other people make, they premise with saying, " If Coll.
I want anything, and is so attentive to all my business that whatever
Caldwell has not done it already." Coll. Beckwith has been very civil. I
have added a horse, a cow and a cat, and a Canadian driver to my estab-
lishment. Patras drives admirably. I have heard from the Governor, but
the letter was dated Fort Erie, six days after he left Niagara.
Sun. 26th Dined at M. Baby's (Hon. Francis Baby). Baron de Rue,
M. D'Anoilt and many others there. Th office ordered to be shut on
Sunday.
Thurs. 30th Dined at the Chateau
258
PLEASANT DAYS AT THE CAPITAL
Tues. Nov. 4th I have heard that all was well at Detroit on the
13th of October, and Governor Simcoe returned to Niagara. Instead of
the usual frost and snow at this season, we have damp, mild weather,
which disagrees with everybody. I have a cold, which keeps me at home.
The wind is east, and has prevented the Fusiliers sailing for Halifax;
they have been on board ship for a week. An east wind at this season
is most extraordinary.
Thurs. 6th The " Eweretta " and convoy sailed to London this morn-
ing.
NOTE. Ship " Eweretta," Alex. Patterson, master, sailed to and
from London.
Tues. llth I attempted to go to Belmont in my carriole, but the roads
were too bad. I drank tea at the Chateau.
Wed. 12th ^Dined with Madame Baby.
Thurs. 13th Spent the evening at Mrs. Ogden's, wife of Isaac Ogden,
Judge of Admiralty.
Pri. 14th Dined at Mrs. Winslow's.
Sat. 15th The weather so bad I put off going to Powell Place.
Sun. 16th Some snow. Francis and I went to Belmont in an open
carriole.
Tues. 18th Drove from Belmont to Powell Place; went to Quebec at
four; dined and went in the evening to the Chateau. When I left it, called
at home for my great-coat, and went with Miss Murray in an open carriole
at ten o'clock at night to Belmont; a little snow, but very mild.
Thurs. 20th Letters have been received from Governor Simcoe dated
Niagara, Oct. 30th.
Tues. 25th A heavy fall of snow and the thermometer five degrees
below. I dined at Mr. Ainslie's, Collector of Customs. Baron de Rue
there; he was promised letters of recommendation by Coll. Harping (at
Quebec, Nov., 1794), who died. The Dauphin, eldest son of Louis of
France, is dead.
Fri. 28th I dined at Mr. Dunn's. The stoves so heated that the ther-
mometer in the room must have been at 90. Ice and fruit were in great
request.
NOTE. Honorable Thos. Dunn was a member of the Executive
Council, Lower Canada. As senior member he was administrator on
two occasions, first in 1805, on the departure of Sir Eobert Shore
Milnes, and again during the interval between Governor Craig and
Sir George Prevost.
Sat. 29th A violent snowstorm, and very severe, cold weather; but
in Miss William's room, daughter of the Clerk of the Executive Council,
where I dined, the thermometer must have been at 86.
iSun. 30th I dined at Belmont; returned in the open carriole.
Tues. Dec. 2nd Dined at the Chateau; supped at Mr. Taylor's.
Wed. 3rd I dined at Belmont.
Thurs. 4th I dined at the Chief Justice's (Osgoode); a pleasant
French party there.
NOTE. Chief Justice Osgoode had, after leaving Upper Canada,
been appointed Chief Justice of Lower Canada. Chief Justice Smith
had died 3rd December, 1793.
Fri. 5th Went to breakfast at Belmont; drank tea with Madame
Baby.
Sat. 6th Dined at Thomas Grant's, of the Surveyor's Office. I have
had letters from Governor Simcoe, tho' nearly a month after the time I
259
DIAEY OF MES. SIMCOE
ought to have received them. Mr. Gray kept them at Montreal till he had
an opportunity of sending them by a gentleman, in order to save the
postage of so large a packet. The Governor proposed my meeting him at
Pointe an Bodet, which is the boundary of this province, in January or
February, as soon as the ice is good. As I had not thought of moving
till the weather communication was open, this scheme is doubly delightful
LADY DORCHESTER.
(From a copy of a miniature in England.)
to me as being an unexpected pleasure, and I think I shall like travelling
en carriole very much. Mr. Mayne, of the Rangers, is to meet me at
Montreal. I desired he may not come further.
Lady Dorchester was so obliging to insist on sending me one of her
open carrioles mine, being a covered one, was disagreeable in a morning
260
LADY DOKCHESTEIl
and this will greatly add to my amusement; indeed, she and Lord Dor-
chester have been uniformly polite and obliging to me; she is one of
those few who appear to act upon principle, and with a consistency which
is not to be moved. I think her a sensible, pleasant woman, and I like
the parties at the Chateau excessively, for there are forty or fifty people
in an evening, and I think it is very amusing to walk about the room and
have something to say to everybody without a long conversation with any.
NOTE. The following interesting incident in connection with
the marriage of Sir Guy Carleton and Lady Maria Howard is given
in the Life of Dorchester, Morang's "Makers of Canada " :
"Almost immediately on the passing of the Quebec Act Carleton
sailed for Canada and landed on September 18th, 1774. During
his long stay in England he had married the Lady Maria Howard,
daughter of the Earl of Effingham, who with her two children born
of the marriage accompanied her husband across the Atlantic. The
lady was less than half Carleton's age, which was now forty-eight.
A family tradition attributes the fact of Carleton's remaining so
long unmarried to an early disappointment in a love affair with his
cousin, Jane Carleton. The circumstances of his marriage were
somewhat singular, and were given to me by the present representa-
tive of the family. Lord Howard of Effingham, then a widower,
was a great personal friend of Carleton's, and of about the same age.
On this account and also foreseeing for him a distinguished career,
he cordially accepted his overtures for the hand of his eldest daughter,
Lady Anne. She and her younger sister, Lady Maria, had seen a
great deal of Sir Guy at their father's house, and doubtless regarded
him as a benevolent uncle rather than a potential lover. In time,
however, they became aware that other schemes were abroad, and
on a certain occasion when Carleton arrived at the house and was
closeted with his Lordship it seems to have been pretty well understood
what he had come for. The two young ladies were sitting together
in another apartment with a relative, a Miss Seymour, and when
a message came to Lady Anne that her presence was required by
her father its purport seems to have been well known. When this
young lady returned to her friends her eyes were red from tears.
The others, waiting impatiently for her news, were the more im-
patient as well as perplexed at her woe-begone appearance. 'Your
eyes would be red,' she replied to their queries, ' if you had just
had to refuse the best man on earth.'
" * The more fool you,' was the unsympathetic rejoinder of her
younger sister, Lady Maria. ' I only wish he had given me the
chance.'
" It appears that Lady Anne was already in love with Carleton's
nephew, whom she afterwards married, and who served under hi?
uncle in Canada.
"There the matter rested for some months till Miss Seymour one
day confided to Sir Guy what Lord Howard's younger daughter had
remarked on hearing of his discomfiture. This so much interested
the middle-aged lover, who, no doubt, had recovered from a perhaps
261
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
not very violent passion, that in due course he presented himself as
a suitor for the younger daughter, who proved herself as good as
her word. Miss Seymour, who lived to old age, used to tell the
story to members of the Dorchester family who only passed away
in comparatively recent years.
" Lady Maria was small and fair, upright and extremely dignified,
and was ceremonious to a degree that in her old age almost amounted
to eccentricity. She had been brought up and educated at Ver-
sailles, which may be held to account for her partiality for the French
at Quebec, and may possibly have influenced her husband in the
same direction."
Tues. 9th I drank tea at the Chateau.
Wed. 10th Went to Belmont and to Powell Place, where I dined and
slept.
Fri. 12th Went to Belmont.
Sat. 13th Lord and Lady Dorchester called upon me. 'Mr. D. W.
Smith writes me word from Niagara that the Governor went to York on
the 13th of November, and was to proceed immediately from thence to
Kingston in a boat coasting by the Bay of Quinte.
Tues. 16th At the Chateau. I am also sure to meet Madame Baby
there, who is one of the most agreeable people at Quebejc.
Wed. 17th At Mr. Craigie's (John Craigie).
NOTE. Honorable John Craigie, brother of Lord Craigie, Lord
of Session in Scotland, was Commissary-General and Provincial
Treasurer. He married Susannah, second daughter of John -Coffin,
a descendant of Tristram Coffin, and a Loyalist who left Boston in
1775, and settled with his family in Quebec.
Thur. 18th The last ship that sailed, the " Bridget," 'is lost. The
August packet is taken by the French, and three officers of the 4th Regi-
ment who were on their way hither in her. One of their wives desired
to preserve a book of drawings, and the captors immediately threw it into
the sea.
Fri. 19th I supped at Mr. Plenderleath's.
NOTE. John Plenderleath, afterwards lieutenant-colonel of the
49th Regiment, was assistant storekeeper-general at Quebec in 1794.
He served in the War of 1812, receiving many wounds while in action.
He returned to England in later years, where he died.
Sat. 20th Wed. 24th At home on account of Francis' illness, which
Dr. Nooth cannot define, whether it was worms, gravel or plum stones, or
what.
Thurs. 25th I heard an admirable sermon preached by the Abb6 des
Jardins at the French church, and afterwards an excellent one by our own
Bishop.
Fri. 26th Mr. Coffin gave a dinner and ball on the marriage of Mr.
(Herman Witsius) Ryland, Lord Dorchester's secretary. He had been
engaged to the lady ten years, but pecuniary circumstances would not
allow them to marry before he left England last year with Lord Dor-
chester; those difficulties being removed, she had had dependence enough
on him to come this winter under the conduct of his friend, Mr. Finlay
262
HERMAN WITSIUS RYLAND
(Dep. P.M.G.)- I was so fatigued with having sat up with Francis for
gome nights that I did not enjoy the ball.
NOTE. Herman Witsius Ryland was born in England in 1770.
He took part in the American War, returning
to England with Sir Guy Carleton. On the lat-
ter's appointment as Governor-General, Mr. Ry-*
land, as 'Civil Secretary, accompanied him to Can-
ada, filling the position not only while Dorchester
was in office, but during the terms of succeeding
Governors. He resigned in 1811, continuing to
fill, however, his position as clerk of the Executive
Council until his death in 1838. His son, George
Herman Ryland, then held the office until the
union of the Canadas. Mrs. Henry J. Low, of
Montreal, and Mr. Herman Ryland, of Quebec, are
grandchildren of Herman Witsius Eyland, and Mr.
H. Ryland Low, of Montreal, is a great-grandson. HERMAN W. RYLAND.
Mon. 29th Met Lord and Lady Dorchester at Mr. Grant's, so 1 did not
go to the concert.
Tues. 30th Drove in my open carriole to Belmont; returned after
dinner and went to, Mr. Ainslie's; won five rubbers at whist, having been
braced and brightened by the cold drive this afternoon.
Wed. 31st Drove to Fort Louis Gate, and walked on the plains with
Lady Dorchester;. su*pped at Mrs. Ogden's.
263
CHAPTER XVI.
RETURN TO UPPER CANADA.
Mrs. Simcoe, satisfied that the war trouble she feared was not
imminent, determined to return to Upper Canada notwithstanding
her aversion to a winter journey west, as expressed in some of her
letters. She resolved to make the trip by the only available route,
a land journey along the north side of the St. Lawrence.
Her stay at Quebec had been a round of pleasure and gaiety. Those
in official circles, as well as the leaders in the social life of the
ancient city, had welcomed her return, and as her diary shows, had
paid 'her respect and kindly courtesy, for every day functions, ?ome
of the major character and others of a minor, occupied her time.
Mrs. Simcoe was a most affectionate wife, and every express to
Upper Canada carried letters to the Governor telling him of her
daily doings at Quebec. She left Belmont on the afternoon of 6th
February.
Late in the fall of 1794 the Governor had left Niagara" for the pur-
pose of making a personal inspection of different parts of the pro-
vince. He visited York and from thence proceeded to Kingston, where
he arrived on 4th December. The journey, owing to the lateness in
the season, was stormy and hazardous, but was accomplished, how-
ever, without mishap. His time in Kingston was fully and actively
employed, and the early part of February found him at Johnstown,
a hamlet east of Prescott. Here he laid plans for a road to the forks
of the Rideau, for the establishment of settlements previously sur-
veyed, and for personally investigating the water communication with
the Ottawa. All schemes were perforce set aside. In March Mrs.
Simcoe joined her husband at New Johnstown (Cornwall), and after
spending a few days at Johnstown they repaired to Kingston, where
the Governor became very ill and was unable to travel for several
weeks. On the 15th May they left for York.
Thurs. Jan. 1st, 1795 I dined at the Chateau. There were about forty
persons. In the evening there was a rout or assembly, for introducing
strangers. These routs used to be held frequently, but since Mr. Carleton's
death, which is many months since, there has not been any.
NOTE. Thomas Carleton. a son of Lord Dorchester, born in 1774,
died in 1794.
My having dined at the Chateau without having been formally intro-
duced is a compliment not usually paid. There were 63 ladies this evening.
I won a rubber at whist; there was but one card table. The people are
unaccountably formal when they come to the Chateau, tho' Lady D. pro-
poses cards and wishes them to be amused.
Pri. 2nd At Madame Baby's; the thermometer ten degrees above. I
preferred coming home in the open carriole.
264
A ROUND OF ENJOYMENT
Tues. 6th I went with Lady Dorchester in her carriole beyond Wood-
field. The carriole was large and pleasant, and a seat in front for children.
Her drivers are Canadians and, therefore, will not wear liveries. The
Canadian coats, with capots and sashes, look very picturesque. I drank
tea at the Chateau, and Miss Carleton danced.
NOTE. Miss Carleton was a daughter of Lord Dorchester.
Wed. 7th I dined en famille at the Chateau, carrying the children.
Supped at Mrs. Taylor's.
Thurs. 8th I went to Belmont.
Fri. 9th I went to Powell Place in a snowstorm, and returned to
Belmont at night.
Sun. llth Coll. Beckwith mentioned Governor Simcoe having the
rank of Major-General. (He received this rank in October, 1794.)
Mon. 12th Dined at Madame Baby's; went to the concert. Ther-
mometer 10 degrees below.
Tues. 13th Dined at the Chateau; a "rout" in the evening. Miss
Carleton is very ill and Lady Dorchester the picture of misery.
Wed. 14th I went to Belmont in the open carriole; dined and returned
in time to go to Mrs. Le Maistre's, where I played cards and supped.
Spent two or three days at Powell Place.
Tues. 20th A ball at the Chateau, as the 18th was Sunday. The
ladies much dressed. Miss Williams the most so. Miss Carleton stayed a
very short time in the room, having been excessively ill for this last week.
Thurs. 22nd Mild weather and a S.E. wind, which occasions a good
deal of illness, and also inconvenience, for the meat, bought as usual in
large quantities in the autumn, will not keep.
Sat. 24th I walked on the plains with Lady Dorchester, and have
learned to wrap myself up enough to defy the cold, but the weight of clothes
is very fatiguing. Dined with Mrs. Taylor. Drank tea at the Chateau.
Sun. 25th At Belmont.
Mon. 26th Drank tea with Miss Mountain. Lord Dorchester sent his
dormeuse, a travelling carriage adapted for sleeping, that 1 might see
whether I should like that sort of a carriage to travel in to Upper Canada.
It is like an open carriole, with a head made of sealskin, and lined with
baize; a large bear or buffalo skin fixes in front, which perfectly secures
you from wind and weather, and may be unhooked if the weather is fine
or mild; a low seat, and feather bed to keep one's feet warm. I drove a
mile or two in it and like it much, and bespoke one to be made the same.
Tues. 27th I dined at the Chateau. Francis is ill.
Wed. 28th I dined at Mr. George Longmore's. Francis is worse. A
letter from the Governor.
NOTE. Mr. George Longmore was an apothecary on the Hospital
staff, and a surgeon in the Ordnance Department.
Thurs. 29th Dined at the Chateau, and carried the children there.
Fri. 30th Dined at Mr. Taylor's; supped at Mr. Coffin's.
Sat. 31st Lady Dorchester came to see me. I dined at the Chateau
and supped at Madame Baby's. Mr. Mayne is arrived at Montreal, and the
Governor on his way to Coll. Gray's to meet me. Sent off my baggage on
a traineau, a sled used for that purpose, to Montreal.
Sun. Feb. 1st Dined at Mr. Taylor's. Drank tea at the Chateau.
Mon. 2nd Dined at Mr. Taylor's. Went to Miss Williams'. It was
her birthday, and there was a ball. Danced with Capt. Archdall, of the
King's Own Regiment of Foot.
NOTE. Captain Archdall received his rank in the 4th, or King's
Own, Regiment of Foot on 2nd September, 1795.
265
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Tues. 3rd Dined at the Chateau.
Wed. 4th Drove to Powell Place, drank tea with Mrs. Craigie; went
with her to the concert; returned; played three rubbers at whist and
supped.
Thurs. 5th Lady Dorchester called to take leave of me. I slept at
Belmont.
Fri. Feb. 6th I left Belmont at two o'clock; the children, Collins and
a great deal of baggage in a heavy dormeuse or carriole, with a head built
after that of Lord Dorchester's. I went six leagues to Pointe aux
Trembles. It was quite dark before I arrived there; a tolerable Post
House.
Sat. 7th I set off at seven; the weather bright and pleasant, tho' the
wind B. At Jacques Cartier the ice was so rotten I was obliged to go a
league higher to cross the river with safety; when 1 came to Ste. Anne's
the sun shone so bright I thought I should have time to go two stages
further to Cap Madeleine, near Three Rivers, where I was advised to sleep
if I went further than Ste. Anne's; but when I came to the next stage,
Champlain (75 miles S.W. of Quebec), I was frightened at the ice cracking
on the river, and when I stopped at the Post House it was so perfectly
dark that I could not reconcile myself to going further.
Sun. 8th The house at Champlain was wretched, and the people said
that travellers never slept at it, but on my repeating a request for a room
they gave up their sitting-room, which appeared so dismal that I could not
sleep, tho' I lay down on a boudet. In the night a great dog crept in from
under the stove, and people were talking continually. The children went
to bed. I would not allow them to stay to breakfast in a place I had
wished to quit from the moment I entered it. The people looked as if
they belonged to the cave dwellers. When I came to Cap Madeleine I
had the expectation of passing very bad ice within a mile, which intimi-
dated me so much that I would not stay to breakfast. We went two
leagues above the usual place of crossing, and even there saw water on
each side of the carriage. We were driven by so very old a man that they
sent another to take care of him over the most dangerous part of the road.
I wanted to detain him the whole stage, but he would not stay to affront
the old man; he said he had driven over GO years. He was very near over-
turning us before we came to Three Rivers. It was Sunday and the streets
filled with people, so I would not go out to breakfast, but kept Collins
(who never liked losing a meal) without her breakfast till five in the
afternoon, when we arrived at a very comfortable Post House at Maskin-
onge, a village on the north shore, where I had a very good dinner and
stayed that night. We had travelled twenty leagues and a half.
Mon. 9th The Dep. P.M.G. at Quebec having sent orders to all
the Post Houses on the road to keep horses ready for me, and
told the courier to pay for them, I had not the least trouble of waiting or
paying. " Labadie (the courier) paye tout," and they ask me no further
questions. The weather has been delightful to-day. I thought the expanse
of miles of ice from Pointe aux Trembles to Montreal looked very formid-
able, but it was good ice, 'and we arrived at Mr. Edward Gray's at five
o'clock, having travelled twenty-four leagues and a half since we left
Maskinonge at five this morning. The post horses are very good; they
drive tandem, and change every three leagues.
Tues. 10th I set off at eight this morning in my dormeuse. Mr. Mayne
followed in a carriole, and servants in a third. When I was told we were
to go with the same horses to Pointe au Bodet, 63 miles, I thought we
should have a very tedious journey, but it was far from being so; the ice
was excellent.
It was a delightful drive across the wild part of the St. Lawrence
below its junction with the Ottawa to the Cedars, where we rested the
horses two hours, and they brought us to the Pointe au Bodet by six
o'clock. When we were on Lake St. Francis my driver left the carriage
266
THE RETURN TO UPPER CANADA
and walked behind with the other drivers; every half-mile he came and
whipped the horses violently, and I saw no more of him till we had gone
another half-mile, the horses steadily pursuing a slight track on the snow;
but had there been air holes in the track they pursued, as sometimes hap-
pens on the ice, what would have become of us? It put me in mind of the
reindeer, who travel self-conducted. The Governor came half-way to
Pointe au Bodet to meet me to-day, and returned to Coll. James Gray's,
as I was not arrived.
Wed. llth I set out by seven, and by eleven had the pleasure to see
the Governor quite well at Coll. Gray's, where we stayed.
Fri. 13th Mr. Mayne returned to Montreal. The Governor and I set
out towards Kingston; stopped an hour at a good inn, where the sessions
are held the last house in Stormont; went about 35 miles to Mr. Patter-
son's at the Rapide Plat, where we slept a damp room. The roads to the
west of Montreal are excellent, because they drive the horses abreast and
make the carrioles wider.
NOTE. Mr. Patterson was a son-in-law of the Honorable John
Munro and lived in what has been known for more than a hundred
years as " The Old Blue House," about four miles east of Iroquois. It
stood on a bluff of the river at "Flagg's" at the head of Rapide du
Plat, but has been moved twice within the past twenty years, and now
stands on the north side of the road. It is only half the original
size, a wing having been removed and the front altered in changing
the old house from place to place. Within its walls were entertained
almost every noted man of the first forty years of the history of
Upper Canada.
Sat. 14th Came to dinner at Johnstone, opposite Oswegatchie, fifteen
miles from the Rapide Plat.
This place was laid out for a town, but there are but a few houses
built; one of them is intended for an inn. The Governor has been residing
at it for a fortnight, expecting me here. I intend to stav here ten days.
Major Littlehales is with him, and they keep a very good house, promising
to give me turkeys and venison every day. There are two comfortable
rooms, and what I most desire are the stoves in them. The weather is
severely cold and bright. We play at whist in the evening. The journey
has quite established Francis' health, tho' he was so ill when we left
Quebec.
NOTE. Johnstown is just east of Prescott, the scene of the
Battle of the Windmill of 1837. It is not to be confused with "New
Johnstown," the name by which Cornwall was first known.
Thurs, 19th I had not been here two days when I felt the violent
effects of a cold I caught by sleeping in a damp room at the Rapide Plat;
it has particularly fallen into my eyes and affected them, so much so that
I think I shall never recover totally. I was obliged to-night to throw off
rrost of the wrappages I had bound about my eyes and head, and go to a
ball given by the inhabitants of the province to the Governor; people came
40 miles to it in carrioles. I was really so ill I could scarcely hear or see,
and possibly neglected the very people I meant to be most civil to.
Fri. 20th Drove seven and a half miles to dine at Mr. Jones'; returned
by nine o'clock.
NOTE. Ephraim Jones, ninth son of Colonel Elisha Jones, was a
United Empire Loyalist who settled in the township of Augusta,
county of Grenville. He is stated in Lord Dorchester's list to have
267
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
been a Commissary. After the Revolutionary War Mr. Jones had
charge of the supplies granted by the British Government to the
settlers in Upper Canada. He was a Justice of the Peace and a
member of the first House of Assembly. In 1790 he received a
grant of three hundred acres of land in the township of Augusta,
now owned by Thomas Murdock.
Sat. 21st Dined at Mr. T. Frazier's (Fraser).
Sun. 22nd Dined at Mr. W. Frazier's (Fraser).
Mon. 23rd Thurs. 26th A great deal of snow fell these days, and the
inhabitants endeavoured to persuade the Governor not to set out till the
snow was beaten; but a gentleman residing with us had business at Kings-
ton, and assured the Governor it would be excellent travelling. So we set
off at eight, and met two Mr. Jones', who were coming to request the
Governor not to undertake the journey yet. When they found him deter-
mined to proceed, they said they would go also, to beat the way and to
hasten our journey; they took us into their lighter carriages, or we never
should have got on, the snow was so heavy. We stopped at another Jones',
where there was the largest wood fire I ever saw; he also set out to beat
the road, and so did several other people. One gentleman came some miles
below Oswegatchie for that purpose, and with this assistance we went 19
miles to Mr. Jessup's house in the woods, where we slept, but the people
who so civilly travelled with us had to go back again, as there was no
accommodation for them and their horses. It was six before we arrived.
It was the coldest day remembered in Upper Canada. Mr. Jones' finger
was slightly frost bit; he was speaking of a very pretty pond near one of
his mills". 1 asked him of what size. He said 300 acres.
NOTE. Mr. Jessup was Major Edward Jessup, born in Stamford
County, Conn., in 1735. After the failure of the Burgoyne expedi-
tion in 1781 the provincials were re-organized, and the corps known
as the Loyal Rangers was formed. Major Edward Jessup was in
command. He spent several years in England and on returning to
Canada settled in Gremille, in the township of Augusta, the pioneer
town of Prescott having been begun on his property. His son, Lieu-
tenant Edward Jessup, was elected as member for Grenville in the
second Legislature. The son died in Prescott in 1815, while the
father died at the same place in the following year. The site of
Major Jessup's house is now occupied by the entrance to Fort Wel-
lington, Prescott. The surviving descendants of Major Edward
Jespup are Mr. Edward Jessup, until recently Collector of Customs
at Prescott, and Misses Clarendon and Zaire Jessup.
Fri. 27th We left Mr. Jessup's at nine, drove nine miles through the
woods to a small cottage; then proceeded 18 miles to Gary's, beyond the
Gananowui. We went four miles on the ice before we came to that river,
at the mouth of which the ice is very bad, so we drove as fast as possible,
as that is thought the safest way on rotten ice; I was very much
frightened, for it was dark, and I knew that if they did not keep exactly
the right track, which could scarcely be seen, we were in the greatest
dangers.
When we arrived at Gary's we heard that Mr. Forsyth had lost both
his horses three days ago at the mouth of the Gananowui, by keeping
too far from the shore; they saved the carriole by cutting the traces, but
neither he nor his companions were dexterous enough to save the horses.
The people of the States are particularly expert in saving horses from
268
AT GANANOQUE AND KINGSTON
drowning; they travel with ropes, which they fasten round the horses'
necks if they fall into the water; pulling it stops their breath, and then
they float and can be pulled out; then they take off the rope as quickly as
possible, and the horse travels on as well as before.
When Governor Simcoe was driven by Swayzie to Detroit he carried
these " choke ropes," and had occasion to use them. A " choke rope," or
check band, is a small strap of rope or leather by which the bridle is
fastened around the neck of a horse.
Sat. 28th Gary's an indifferent house, but warm. We left Gary's at
nine, drove near the mills at Gananowui; stopped at a farm at Rowland's,
half-way to Kingston, where we arrived at six o'clock, having travelled 20
miles thro' woods. I was amused by observing the various barks of trees
the most deeply indented and light coloured white ash, the rugged shag
bark hickory, the regular marked iron wood, the perpendicular ribbed
cedar, the bass wood, the varieties of white and black oak, the maple,
chestnut, etc; the strong lines on the pine, particularly the Norway, which
Is of a yellow brown, and when cut approached to a bright orange colour;
among all this the smooth bark of the beech looked as naked as a frog,
and had a very mean appearance amongst the rest of the trees.
The following verses were found in the MSS. of the diary. They
are dated "Kingston, January 1st, 1795," and were evidently com-
posed by Governor Simcoe in anticipation of his wife's return to
Upper Canada.
" Kingston, January 1st, 1795.
"Twice six revolving years have run their course thro' yonder azure
plains, diffusing joy.
Gladness and light has discontinuous mov'd,
Since thou, Eliza, overflowing source of happiness domestic, dost
employ
My wedded thoughts, most honour'd, most belov'd.
And if the gathering clouds of fleeting life
Besides, thy presence soon illumines the scene,
And pleasure draws from elemental strife;
And now when Night and Absence intervene
may my wishes wing thy speedy way ;
Return, thou source of joy; return, thou source of day."
Sun. March 1st We are very comfortably lodged in the barracks at
Kingston. As there are few officers here, we have the mess room to dine
in and a room over it for the Governor's office, and these, as well as the
kitchen, are detached from our other three rooms, which is very comfort-
able. The drawing-room has not a stove in it, which is a misfortune, but
it is too late in the winter to be of much consequence. We have excellent
wood tires. I went to church to-day and heard an excellent sermon by
Mr. Stuart.
NOTE. The barracks where Mrs. Simcoe stayed were the Sol-
diers' or the old Tete du Pont barracks, located on almost the same
site as the present barracks, Kingston. There are none of the
buildings standing now, but on the square are the remains of the
foundations of the buildings erected towards the latter part of the
eighteenth century.
Tues. 3rd A thaw. Mr. Frazier, who drove my carriole, set out
yesterday to return home.
269
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Sat. 7th Dined at Mr. Stuart's, the Rector of Kingston.
Sun. 8th An express from York.
Mon. 9th We are desirous of seeing the Bay of Quinte; the ice is as
smooth as possible and, I am told, very pleasant to drive upon, and
possibly the change of air may abate the violent cough I still have. We
therefore determined to set out to-day. We called at Mr. Booth's farm, 11
miles distant; the next 11 miles brought us to Mr. Macdonell's, where we
dined and slept.
NOTE. The "King's Sawmills," subsequently known as Booth's
Mills, were situated on Lot No. 18 in King's Township.
Tues. 10th Set off and drove four miles on this delightful ice to Mr.
Fisher's, in Hay Bay. He was not at home. We proceeded 15 miles
further to Mr. Cartwright's mills, on the Appanee River, and slept at his
house, a romantic spot.
NOTE. Hay Bay is in the township of Fredericksburg, running
S.W. into East Bay, making the fork of the north channel of the
Bay of Quinte. Mr. Fisher of Hay Bay was probably Judge Fisher,
who lived in that district at the time.
The Appanee River is in Lennox County, Ont. The original
spelling was "Appanee," or variations, such as "Appanea," "Appanie."
On a map of 1815 it is to be found "Apannee." In the Clark
Record book it is given twice as Napanee, once in 1788 and again in
1789. On the original Crown Lands map the river is named "Ap-
pannee," and the following legend on the map, "Mills built on the
Appinnie River under the sanction of Lieutenant-Governor Hamil-
ton," locates the site on the left bank in Fredericksburg Township.
Since Naw-paw-nay is the Indian (Mohawk) for "flour" this is some-
times given as the origin of the name, but since the original name
has not the initial "N," and as the name was there before the flour
mill was erected, we must look elsewhere. An intelligent Indian
student suggested that it is related to "opining," which means
"potato." The suggestion has also' been made by a student of
Canadian history, Mr. W. S. Herrington, K.C., of Napanee, that the
Indian name for flour (Naw-paw-nay) may have been derived from
or may have originated from the name Napanee after flour milling
began at the Falls.
Mr. Robert Clark was instructed by the Government to build a
saw and also a grist mill at the Falls on the Napanee River, the work
being under the direction of Honorable Richard Cartwright. Mr. C.
C. James, Deputy Minister of Agriculture, states that in a record
book in his possession the first entry, "Appenea Falls, 8th November,
1785," marks the beginning of construction. The saw mill was set
up March, 1786, and the grist mill on 25th May, 1786. The latter is
the mill shown in Mrs. Simcoe's picture. Grinding wheat began in
December of 1786, or early in 1787. For some years the mill was
in charge of a Government officer named James Clarke, who, by the
way, was in no way related to Robert Clark, the builder. In August,
1799, the Government transferred the mill and lots 18 and 19 in the
7th concession of Fredericksburg to Honorable Richard Cartwright.
The mills were situated on the left bank of the river just below the
270
THE CARTWRIGHT FAMILY
Falls. Until recent years the old Joy sawmill occupied, in all prob-
ability, the exact site of the original sawmill, and the Ross grist mill,
just below it and situated under the hill, which was in operation
some years ago, was the successor of the original grist mill. Whether
it occupied the exact site cannot now be determined, but if it was not
the original mill reconstructed, it must have occupied approximately
the same site.
Richard Cartwright, great-grandfather of Sir Richard Cartwright,
was born in 1720. He came to America and settled in New York about
1742, removing to Canada after the Revolutionary War. His son
(Honorable) Richard Cartwright, who owned the mills at Napanee
after 1799, was born 2nd February, 1759, and died 1815. He served
in Butler's Rangers 1778-9 and was a member of the Legislative
Council of Upper Canada from 1792. He was also a Justice of the
Common Pleas.
Two of the sons of Honorable Richard Cartwright were Robert
David and John Solomon. Reverend Robert David married Harriet,
daughter of Conway Edward Dobbs of Dublin, Ireland, a son being
Sir Richard Cartwright, and a grandson A. D. Cartwright, secretary
of the Railway Commission, Ottawa. John Solomon married Sarah
Hayter Macaulay, daughter of Dr. James Macaulay of the Queen's
Rangers. James S. Cartwright, K.C., Master in Chambers, and John
R. Cartwright, K.C., Deputy Attorney-General, are surviving sons.
Wed. llth We are now half way up the Bay of Quinte. Had we set
out a week sooner we might have gone 50 miles further, but a geneial
thaw is so soon expected that we do not venture. We are now travelling
on a coat of upper ice formed about a fortnight since, and between that
and the original ice is two feet of water. The rapidity with which a thaw
comes on is incredible; from the ice being excellent, in six hours it is
sometimes impassable.
We set out at eleven and drove 14 miles to Trumpour's Point, so named
from a man of that name who lives there. He was formerly in the IGth
Dragoons, and lives by selling horses; his wife gave me some good Dutch
cakes, as I could not wait to eat the chickens she was roasting in a kettle
without water. This house commands a fine view. We passed a village
of Mohawk Indians at Mohawk Bay, opposite the Appanee River.
From Trumpour's we went to Mr. McDonell's and slept there. This
bay is about a mile across, thickly inhabited on the north side. The farms
are reckoned the most productive in the province. The journey has been
of great benefit to my health.
NOTE. Paul and Haunts Trumpour, who were brothers, appear
to have been the only pioneers of this family in the Bay of Quinte
District ; and the latter, it would seem, came direct to Prince Edward
County, while the former settled at Adolphustown. There is no rec-
ord of Haunts having lived at the latter place, but the name of Paul
is to be found in the " Annual Return of the Inhabitants of Adol-
phustown," continuously from 1794 to 1812.
The Mohawk Settlement was on the Bay of Quinte, west of Rich-
mond, and between the river Shannon and Bowen's Creek.
18 273
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Thur. 12th Left Mr. McDonell's, called at Booth's, and arrived back
at Kingston at three o'clock.
Sun. 15th An express by land arrived from Niagara, and went by
York and the Bay of Quinte, for the navigation is not yet open across
the lake. Mr. Mayne arrived from Montreal; he says the roads are now
very good. Mr. Stuart preached one of the most impressive and best
sermons I have ever heard, the text " Now is the accepted time, now is
the day of salvation."
Wed. 18th An express went to Niagara. A person lately crossing
Lake Champlain passed a large hole in the ice and an infant, alive, lying
by the side of it. By tracks it appeared that a sleigh had fallen in, and it
was known that a heavy-laden sleigh, with families in it, left the country
on the opposite shore the day before; probably the mother threw the child
out as the sleigh went down. The gentlemen carried the infant to Mont-
real, where a subscription was raised for her maintenance a good cir-
cumstance this for the commencement of a heroine's life in a novel.
Fri. 20th A severe frost. Mr. Mayne drove me on the harbour, and
Lt. Frasier, of the 60th Regiment, drove the Governor. A large party to
dinner.
Sat. 21st The Governor so ill to-day he could not leave his room to
dine with Mr. Breakenridge.
NOTE. James Breakenridge settled in Bennington, Vt. He was
lieutenant of militia; born in 1721, died 1783, leaving issue, besides
others, two sons, David and James, who were officers in the Royalist
Army (Roger's Rangers), in the Revolutionary War, at the conclusion
of which they came to Canada. Mr. Breakenridge of whom Mrs.
Simcoe writes was James, colonel of militia and lieutenant of County
of Leeds, who settled in Elizabethtown. The late Mr. Walter B.
Read, K.C., Toronto, son of the late D. B. Read, K.C., was a great-
grandnephew of James Breakenridge of Elizabethtown.
Tues. 31st Capt. Parr came to take command of the garrison; he
relieves Capt. Porter, of the 60th Regiment.
NOTE. Captain Parr was the son of John Parr, Governor of
Nova Scotia in 1782. Rochefoucauld, in writing of a visit to King-
ston in July, 1795, says that he and his pajty "had a letter from
General Simcoe to the commanding officer in Kingston, who, at our
arrival, was Captain Parr of the 60th Regiment. Six hours after,
the detachment commanded by that gentleman was relieved by an-
other of the same regiment, under the orders of Major Dobson. This
circumstance, however, did not prevent Captain Parr from giving us
the most obliging proofs of civility and kindness. He is the son of
the aged Governor of Nova Scotia."
Fri. April 24th The Governor has been so ill since the 21st of March
that I have not left his room since that day. He has had such a cough
that some nights he could not lie down, but sat in a chair, total loss of
appetite, and such headaches that he could not bear any person but me
to walk across the room or speak loud. There was no medical advice but
that of a horse doctor who pretended to be an apothecary. The Governor,
out of consideration for the convenience of the staff-surgeon, had allowed
him to remain at Niagara, and his not being made to attend his duty has
caused me a great deal of anxiety to see the Governor so ill without
having proper attendance. Capt. Brant's sister prescribed a root it is,
274
A GALE ON LAKE ONTARIO
I believe, calamus, a genus of palm, one species of which yields a resin
called dragon's blood, the root of which is the sweet flag which really
relieved his cough in a very short time.
Sat. 25th Walked out this morning.
Sun. 26th I went to church. It rained. My umbrella was forgotten,
and the wet through my sleeves gave me a cold, which perhaps I was more
susceptible of from not having been out of the house so long.
Mon. 27th I had a fit of the ague. The first boats went down to
Montreal.
Wed. 29th I had a fit of the ague.
Fri. May 1st The first boats arrived from Montreal to-day. The
unusual mild weather occasioned Lake Champlain to freeze very late.
Mr. Frobisher's sleigh was lost in crossing it; it contained many bags of
dollars and valuable things.
Sun. 3rd The ague again.
Mon. 4th As I am going away so soon, I am obliged to invite the
ladies to dinner, but I am ill and weak. I was obliged to sit in the draw-
ing-room while they went to dinner.
Tues. 5th The ague.
Wed. 6th. Ladies dined here. I walked in the evening.
Thurs. 7th Very ill indeed.
Mon. llth I drank tea with Mrs. Stuart, and much fatigued by that
drive only a mile.
Tues. 12th I went on board the " Onondaga," the Government
schooner, but the wind coming ahead, we could not sail.
Thurs. 14th I saw " The Mohawk " launched, a Government boat of
80 tons. She is the size of the " Mississaga." She came with such
rapidity that it appeared as if she would have run down the ship we were
in, which was at anchor ahead of her. I went on shore, and walked on
Point Frederick and the hill above it. Miss Bouchette, daughter of Com-
modore, dined on board with me. I have not had the ague since I have
been in the ship.
NOTE. Point Frederick is between Kingston Harbour and Haldi-
mand Cove.
Fri. 15th We weighed anchor at twelve. After sailing five miles a
head wind and a stiff gale arose; we returned to the harbour. At two the
wind changed and we sailed again; a wet afternoon.
Sat. 16th Unpleasant, cold weather, little wind.
Sun. 17th About 5 p.m. we were off Gibraltar Point at York. It
blew extremely hard from the shore; the Captain chose to turn the Point
without shifting a sail; he was supposed to be not sober, and the
Governor ordered the English lieutenant to give orders, and he brought us
safely into York Harbour. We were certainly in great danger, for the
" Onondaga " is so built that she would overset sooner than carry away
anything. I was unusually frightened, having dreamt twice following the
other night that I was lost in the " Onondaga." My servant came several
times to tell me we were going to the bottom. I told her to shut the door
and leave me quiet, for the motion of the ship made me sick.
Mon. 18th At one o'clock we went on shore.
Thurs. 21st A moor-hen a kind of water fowl, which lives on rushes
in marshy ground was brought to me to-day, and repeatedly pecked at
the reeds represented in the tapestry, not touching any other part.
York, Sun. 24th Some ladies dined with me. Walked in the evening.
The weather damp and cold.
Mon. 25th I went with the Governor to the mill (the Government
mill) on the Humber, and gathered a beautiful species of polygala or
milk wort. I was slightly attacked by the ague.
Wed. 27th The ague.
275
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Mon. June 1st I went in a boat to Francis' estate, Castle Frank. I
drank tea at Playter's.
NOTE. Immediately beyond the Castle Frank woods, on the
property later known as Drumsnah, was the estate of Captain George
Playter, and directly across, on the opposite side of the river, that of
his son, Captain John Playter, both of whom emigrated from Penn-
sylvania after the Declaration of Independence. Official records
show that Township Lot No. 20, in the 2nd Concession on east side of
Yonge and north side of Bloor, was granted to Captain George
Playter on 20th August, 1796. Captain George Playter's house stood
on the present site of Mr. A. E. Kemp's residence, No. 2, Castle
Frank Crescent. This residence was 'built in 1902, and when the
excavations were being made the laborers came upon the stone founda-
tion of Captain George Playter's residence of 1795.
One of Captain George Playter's sons was James Playter, who
had a son James. His children are Edgar Manning, manager of a
branch of the Canadian Bank of Commerce, Queen and Bathurst
Streets, Toronto ; Nelson, of Toronto ; Catherine Louisa and Mary M.
Playter, while Mrs. Barlow Cumberland of Port Hope is a direct
descendant of Captain George Playter of early York, through his
daughter Mary, who became the wife of Thomas Ward, a barrister at
York, afterwards of Port Hope, Ontario.
Thurs. 4th Company at dinner, and a ball in the evening as usual
Sat. 6th Francis gave a dinner on his birthday to the soldiers' chil-
dren. The Shaws dined with him at an upper table.
Tues. 9th We sent the children and servants in the " Onondaga," and
intend going ourselves to-morrow in the canoe. Dined at Commissary
McGill's.
Wed. 10th The weather so bad we could not move.
Thurs. llth The weather continues adverse to our quitting York.
We had a dance this evening.
Mon. 15th We set out in a canoe at seven, dined at the Sixteen-
Mile Creek, and arrived at Jones', three miles beyond Burlington Bay, at
seven in the evening. I was delighted with the canoe, the motion so
easy, so pleasant, so quiet, like what I should suppose being in a palan-
quin. We sat on cushions in the bottom of the canoe. The Indians
brought us strawberries not quite ripe. Jones' sister put them in a sauce-
pan with water and sugar, and boiled them, and I thought them very
good with my tea.
NOTE. Mr. Augustus Jones was Deputy-Surveyor. The family
emigrated from Wales to America, and settled on the Hudson River.
He was recommended to Governor Simcoe by Mr. Cobden and at the
Governor's request came to Canada and practised his profession as
surveyor in different parts of the province. His house was built on
the 'shore near Stoney Creek, presumably the site of what was known
as the " Salt Works Farm." Aueruetus Jones and Brant were friends,
and owing to the proximity of their homes, exchanges of hospitality
were frequently made, and many pleasant hours spent together.
Tues. 16th We left Jones' at seven, dined near the Twenty, and
arrived at eight o'clock at Navy Hall.
276
CHAPTER XVTT.
VISIT OF DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULD.
In 1795, Mr. Hammond, the British Ambassador at Washington,
had informed Governor Simcoe in an official letter that the Duke de la
Rochefoucauld-Liancourt, who was on a visit to the United States,
proposed paying a visit to Upper Canada and to Niagara. Letters
to the same effect came from the Duke of Portland, who was a personal
friend of Rochefoucauld's.
The Duke was an eminent man in France. He was born in 1747
and lived beyond the allotted span, for he was eighty years of age
when he died in 1827. His loyalty to the unfortunate Louis XVI.
was his undoing, for he was compelled to seek other climes while his
native France was in the throes of revolution. He spent several
years in England and America, but returned to France under the
Consulate. There he resumed the active part he had played in edu-
cation, benevolence and reform.
The Duke was welcomed by the Governor in June, 1795, and
accepted his invitation to " remain with him, to sleep in his house and
consider ourselves as at home." The visit of the
Duke and what he wrote concerning his visit to
Upper Canada are not pertinent to the contents
of this volume, and will be found in the biography
of Governor Simcoe, now in course of preparation.
Suffice it to say that the Duke wrote a work on his
travels in North America, the contents of which
were severely criticized. He seemed to have no
appreciation of the fact that he and his party were
guests, and he violated all the rules of hospitality
by relating private conversations and gossip, color-
ing and garbling and distorting incidents and con-
versations as if his purpose was to sow the seeds
of discord and ill-feeling. He apparently had no
consideration of personal delicacy, and instead of
writing in a friendly manner he seemed to regard himself when
writing concerning the British Government as a "foreigner and a
foe," as the English translator of his volume admits. The Duke was
in Canada from the 20th June until the 22nd July, 1795. The
Governor, Lord Dorchester, had doubts as to the advisability of his
visit, and refused to permit the Duke to descend the St. Lawrence
and visit Lower Canada. His remarks about Mrs. Simcoe show he
lacked the predominant characteristic of a French gentleman and
that he forgot that he was the guest not only of the Governor but
277
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
of his charming wife, who, with true British hospitality, were both
doing all they could to make his visit a pleasant one. He says:
"Mrs. Simcoe is a lady of thirty-six years of age. She is bash-
ful and speaks little; but she is a woman of sense, handsome and
amiable, and fulfils all the duties of the mother and wife with
the most scrupulous exactness. The performance of the latter she
carries so far as to act the part of a private secretary to her husband.
Her talents for drawing, the practice of which she confines to maps
and plans, enable her to be extremely useful to the Governor."
As an "Anglo-Canadian" (D. W. Smith), who reviewed that part
of the Duke's work referring to his visit to Upper Canada, wrote
after the death of General Simcoe in 1806, " Was it well done of the
ci-devant Duke de la Rochefoucauld (while he was fostered by an
English Governor, in a country where he was received with as much
attention as if he had then actually enjoyed his honours and his
prosperity) to publish to the world that this exemplary lady per-
formed the duties of a wife with so much scrupulous exactness as to
act the part of a private secretary to her husband ? Was she thus to
be metamorphosed into a clerk because she sometimes copied her
husband's confidential despatches? Fye, sir you should have re-
spected the lady's delicate feeling; although you had none such for
her lord. But Mrs. Simcoe is well known to all who loved and
followed the General's fortunes, and no reflection on her conduct,
whether powerful or puerile, can shake their attachment to the relict
of their friend, or induce the world to believe or form any opinion on
the Duke's assertions, except that of ill-nature and ingratitude in
his own breast."
Dr. Scadding in his work of "Toronto of Old" writes that the
Duke in his statement about Mrs. Simcoe might have added "that
her skill, facility and taste were attested by numerous sketch-books
and portfolios of Canadian scenery in its primitive condition, taken
by her hand, to be treasured up carefully and reverently by her
immediate descendants, but unfortunately not accessible generally
to Canadian students."
Mrs. Simcoe was not favorably impressed with her visitors. She
thought "their appearance is perfectly democratic and dirty," and
this conviction was evidently a settled one, for she writes, "I dislike
them all."
Mon. 22nd The Duke de Liancourt arrived, strongly recommended
by the Duke of Portland, Mr. Hammond, etc.; therefore Genl. Simcoe is
obliged to pay every attention to him. He is attended by Mr. Gilmard, an
Englishman, a French naval officer named Duoetit-Thouars, and M. de
Blacons. Their appearance is perfectly democratic and dirty.
Wed. 24th Monsr. Blacons returns immediately to the United States,
where, I hear, he keeps a shop. Monsr. Dupetit-Thouars and Gilmard are
going to visit York.
Mon. 29th The Governor took the Duke de L'iancourt to see Forty-
Mile Creek. I dislike them all.
Thur. July 2nd The Governor returned. Mrs. McGill came to stay a
few days with me during the Commissary's absence.
278
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THE POWELL FAMILY
Sun. 12th The thermometer 95 in the shade.
Tues. 21st Mrs. McGill returned to York.
Fri. 24th Coll. and Mrs. Campbell, from Detroit, dined with me.
Sat. Aug. 1st Excessive hot day. Coll. and Mrs. Campbell went in
our boat to Queenstown; we rode. From thence they drove up the mountain,
and we dined in the arbour by the side of the river, from which we were
driven by a violent shower. We drank tea at Mrs. Hamilton's, and came
home in the boat.
Wed. 5th We went to the Queenstown landing with Mrs. Macaulay,
and dined by the rock which Hennepin mentions; a very pleasant day.
NOTE. Father Louis Hennepin, a missionary, arrived at Quebec
in 1675, and joined the party of La Salle in 1678. When they
reached the Illinois Kiver La Salle was forced to return and Hennepin
proceeded without him in 1680, exploring the Upper Mississippi.
His picture of the Falls of Niagara is the earliest picture of the
cataract known. He mentions a rock at Niagara, and calls it "le
Gros Kocher." It is between the two falls.
Mon. 10th The House of Assembly (the fourth session of the first
Legislature) prorogued to-day.
NOTE. It is true that York was now the official capital, but
there was no building in York that would accommodate the Legis-
lature, so it continued to be held at Niagara.
Tues. llfch We rode to Judge
Powell's; dined at Mrs. Tice's,
and obtained her consent to our
staying a fortnight at her house.
She is to give us two rooms, and
we are to have a tent pitched for
the servants. The situation is
peculiarly dry and healthy, on the
mountain five miles from the Falls
of Niagara. There is a shed or
gallery before the house, and
some oak trees close to it. There-
fore there is always shade and
cool air here when we were suf-
fering from intense heat at Navy
Hall. We rode home in the even-
ing.
NOTE. Chief Justice William Dummer Powell was born in Bos-
ton in 1755. The grandfather of the Chief Justice came from Eng-
land as Secretary to Lieutenant-Governor Dummer. The family was
.an old Welsh one, their estate in Wales being known as Caer-Howell.
When a lad of nine, William Dummer was sent to England to be
educated, and from there went to Holland to acquire a knowledge
of French and 'Dutch, and in 1772 returned to Boston. In 1779
he was called to the bar by the Middle Temple, and in 1789 appointed
a Commissioner of the Peace of the Province of Quebec. In this
year he left Montreal with his family for Detroit, which was still
in possession of the British. In 1791 he was appointed Com-
missioner of Oyer and Terminer and Jail Delivery for Quebec, and
in 1792 to the same office in Upper Canada. Up to the War of 1812,
281
CHIEF JUSTICE
POWELL.
MRS. POWELL.
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Powell had been a Puisne Judge, but in 1815 was promoted to the
Chief Justiceship. The Chief Justice married in 1773 Ann, daughter
of Dr. J. Murray of Norwich, England, of the family of Murray of
Philiphaugh. He retired from the Bench in 1825, and died in
Toronto nine years later. The living descendants of the Chief
Justice bearing the Powell name are the families of John Bleecker
Powell, Collector of Inland Revenue, Guelph; Arthur Wellesley
Powell of Montreal, and Dr. Robert Winyard Powell of Ottawa,
Ont. Brindley Powell and William Dummer Powell reside in the
United States.
Wed. 12th We sailed in the boat to the Queenstown landing, and
arrived at Mrs. Tice's to dinner. In the evening we walked to the whirl-
pool.
Thur. 13th The Governor drove me in the carriage for the first time;
we went to the Falls and returned by starlight, tho' the road has many
stumps of trees on the sides, of which I was a little afraid.
Fri. 14th We breakfasted at six and called on Mrs. Hamilton (wife
of Capt. Hamilton) at the Chippawa. On our return stopped at Canby's
Mill. From thence the rapids above the Falls appear very grand. Near
this mill, about a year ago, a burning spring was discovered, which, if a
candle is held to it, will continue flaming a great while.
NOTE. Captain James Mathew Hamilton, son of Rev. Nicholson
Hamilton of Donoghadee, County Down, Ireland, born 1768, was
ensign of the 5th Northumberland Regiment of Foot in 1786. He
received his lieutenancy on 16th
July, 1794, and his captaincy on
llth August, 1799. He served
with his regiment in Canada,
being stationed at Mackinac for
some time. While there he mar-
ried Louisa, daughter of Dr.
David Mitchell, surgeon-general
to the Indian Department, who
performed the ceremony, there
feeing no minister of any de-
nomination in that part of the
country in those early days.
CAPTAIN HAMILTON. They > were remarried" by Rev.
Robert Addison at Niagara. In
St. Mark's Register the marriage is third on the list, and is thus
quaintly recorded: "August 24th, 1792, Captain James Hamilton
to Louisa Mitchell his wife. They had been married by some com-
manding officer or magistrate and thought it more decent to have
the first repeated." From the time of Rev. Robert Addison's arrival
he kept the register, which became the St. Mark's Church register
in 1809, when the church was opened. In 1795, Captain Hamilton
was in command at Chippawa and about 1800 he returned to Eng-
land, where he sold his commission. His wife died in 1802, and
he remarried, his second wife being Louisa Jupp. He returned to
282
MRS. HAMILTON.
AN OUTING AT THE FALLS
Canada about 1828. Ann Elizabeth, eldest daughter of Captain
James Hamilton by his first wife, married Thomas Gummersall
Anderson. One of their daughters is Mrs. W. H. Eowe of Toronto.
Mr. Basil G. Hamilton of Wilmer, B.C., is a grandson of Captain
Hamilton, being descended from the latter's second wife.
Between the village and the falls of Chippawa there were three
mills; the lower for the manufacture of flour; the two upper mills,
which were near to each other, and adjoining to the road, were for
the purpose of sawing timber into boards, and for manufacturing
iron. The latter mills are referred to as Canby's and Burch's, as
Benjamin Canby and John Burch had mills in this locality.
About three miles from Chippawa, in the township of Willoughby,
there is a spring of water whose vapor is highly inflammable, and is
emitted for a time with a considerable degree of force. If collected
within a narrow compass, it is capable of supporting combustion
for nearly twenty minutes, and of communicating to Avater placed over
it in a small confined vessel the degree of boiling temperature.
Fri. 14th I went to see it to-day, but it has not been cleared out for
some time, and the cattle having trod in it and made it muddy, it did not
deserve the name of the burning spring. We had our small tent and some
cold meat hung under the carriage. We pitched the tent near the Falls and
dined, after which, being fatigued by the heat, I lay down in the tent and
slept, lulled by the sound of the Falls, which was going to sleep in the
pleasantest way imaginable. After tea we had a very pleasant drive home.
Sat. 15th The Governor drove the children to the whirlpool, and 1
rode part of the way; we carried our tent and provisions as yesterday, and
dined on a point from whence the whirlpool and the opposite bank of the
river, on which is a mill, form altogether a very fine scene; the mill
appears like a part of the perpendicular flat rock on which it stands. In
the bay (or whirlpool), formed by two immensely high points of land,
are now a number of logs collected by Canby at his saw mill above the
Falls; the dam which confined them having given way in a flood, the
logs came down the Falls and were stopped here by the various strong
eddies in this agitated pool, where they whirl about, and probably will
continue so till the end of the world, for they never appear to go beyond
the circle of a certain distance, and sometimes are set quite upright by the
currents; it is a curious scene.
Sun. 16th A most excessive hot day. The Governor went to Navy
Hall.
Mon. 17th The weather extremely warm; the Governor returned at
eleven. This evening we drove to a farm inhabited by Painter. It is
just opposite the Fort Schlosser Fall. I was so delighted with the sight of
the Falls from this spot, just above what is called the " Indian ladder,"
which gives so different a view of them from what I saw at the Table
Rock that I am determined to return here again. The road is tolerable
for a carriage. It was quite dark before we got home.
NOTE. The Indian Ladder was on the Canadian side, and a sec-
ond ladder was made near it for Mrs. Simcoe more easily to descend.
The ladder consisted of a tall cedar with the branches lopped off about
a foot from the trunk and placed against the face of the cliff. By
some it was said to be about half a mile below, or north of Table
285
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Rock, by others a mile. It is said there was also an Indian ladder
on the American side. Colonel John Clarke in his Memoirs (On-
tario Historical Society Records, Vol. VII., 1906) says "I, however,
remember the Indian Ladder (so called), having often gone down on
it, being only a long pine tree with the branches cut off, leaving only
enough to place your foot on, to hold to, when ascending or
descending."
Wed. 19th At home all day a thunderstorm.
Thurs. 20th A wet morning. The Governor went to Navy Hall. A
cold evening. Mr. Pilkington called.
Sat. 22nd The Governor drove towards the Falls in the evening.
Sun. 23rd In the evening we rode to the mill near the whirlpool. I
made a sketch, in which a large, living birch tree, suspended by the roots,
with the head downwards, hanging between a 'bold rifted rock near a cas-
cade, if well drawn, would have a most picturesque appearance. The
miller who lives here has a project of finding means to drag these logs on
shore, in which case it will answer him to build a saw mill here, for it is
not unusual for floods to bring down a quantity of logs from Canby's mill,
and the timber is not at all injured by having passed the great Fall.
Mon. 24th Mr. Pilkington, having been desired to put one or two
short ladders to make the descent easy from rock to rock by the side of
the "Indian Ladder," which is a notched tree, we set out to-day, deter-
mined to make our way to the bottom of the rocks below the Falls. We
stopped near Painter's house to look at the Fort Schlosser Fall, and then
descended the hill, which I found much easier than had been represented,
and very little more difficult than the usual way to the Table Rock, altho'
it carried us so many feet below it. I rested half-way, and sketched the
rock and ladder above me. The view from the margin of the water is
infinitely finer than from the Table Rock. We were near a mile distant
from it. The Governor walked with a guide nearly underneath it, but as
the path over the rocks was bad and not one picturesque scene to be gained
by it, I did not attempt going, but sat endeavouring to sketch the scene
till my paper was quite wet by the spray from the Fort Schlosser Fall.
The quantity of cypress and cedar with which the sides of the rocks are
covered adds greatly to the beauty and richness of the scenery. We dined
on the rocks beneath the overhanging cedars. A man speared a large
sturgeon this afternoon near where we were working. As we ascended the
hill again, when near the top of it I stopped to observe a most picturesque
view of the Falls, seen in parts thro' the rough spreading branches of
hemlock spruce trees, which formed a noble foreground, and the setting
sun added richness to the scene. I rested myself at Painter's house, where
they prepared, besides tea, those cakes, baked in a few minutes on an iron
before the fire, which the people of the States make so well; eggs and
sweetmeats, and bacon or salt fish, they usually offer with tea. I believe
it is a more substantial meal with them than their dinner, which is slight.
I came home by moonlight after a most pleasant day. All the time
I have been at Mrs; Tice's has been filled up with seeing the most delight-
ful scenery, and nothing to interrupt the pleasure of dwelling on the
sights. The waggons arrived to carry the General's baggage to Fort Erie.
He is going as far as Long Point, on Lake Erie.
Tues. 25th The Governor and I and Francis went in the carriage to
Fort Chippawa, but finding the baggage had not arrived, could proceed
no further; dined and slept at Capt. Hamilton's, who commands here.
We walked this evening, and I made some sketches. Weather exces-
sively hot; the Governor very ill. We slept in a room in the Block House,
where the logs were some distance apart. Without this contrivance, used
286
A DAY AT FORT ERIE
as loopholes in the case of attack, as well as for admitting air, I think the
heat would have been insufferable; as it was, I left my bed and lay on the
floor.
Wed. 26th Went out early in the boat with Capts. Darling and
Smith. The latter brought me a thermometer I had been long wishing
for, and the Governor bought it of an officer going to England; almost
immediately it fell out of my hand and was broken, to my great vexation.
The Governor set out on horseback, but finding himself very ill, made
signs to come ashore, which we did half-way between the Chippawa and
Fort Erie, and at a very good farmhouse he stay'd the whole of the
day till six in the evening, when we proceeded in the barge to Fort Erie.
We ordered dinner and made ourselves quite at home here, supposing it
an inn, and afterwards found we were mistaken. It was not an inn, but
the home of a very hospitable farmer. The whole of the shore we passed
to-day is flat and uninteresting. About Fort Erie the verdure is greater
than I have seen in Canada, and, being unaccustomed to green without
being enriched by warm brown tints, it gave me such an idea of damp
and cold that I immediately put on a fur tippet and thought it quite com-
fortable, tho' there was no particular change in the weather, but only in
the tints. I saw some of the vessels which are built on this lake and
rigged like scows, a large, flat bottomed boat. They are better painted,
and have a more respectable appearance than those on Lake Ontario.
We slept in an indifferent house, two miles beyond the Fort, kept by
very dirty people, but it has the advantage of being very near the lake.
NOTE. Fort Erie is in Welland County, on Lake Erie. It was
first fortified during the French occupation and greatly strengthened
during the War of 1812. Since then it has gone gradually to decay
and has long been dismantled.
Thurs. 27th An excessive hot day. We pitched the tent among some
trees near the beach, which is a very pleasant spot, and the house is too
dirty to stay in. I dined in my tent, the Governor at the Fort. The beach
is covered with flat rocks, among and upon which are cray fish in very
shallow pools of water. I amused myself by catching them. The lake
is narrow here, and has not the sea-like appearance of Ontario. The
opposite shore is seen and some rising land beyond it, but a flat horizon,
without fine-shaped or pointed hills.
Fri. 28th The heat intense; if my thermometer had not been broken
I might have ascertained it. I sat in my tent; the flat rocks and shallow
water extend a prodigious way into the lake. One of the servants went
to the lake to wash his clothes. Francis followed him up to his knees in
water and sat on a rock by him; presently an Indian went to wash his
clothes, and the group looked very picturesque. Francis came back com-
pletely wet to fetch a loaf of bread he desired to give to the Indian. Com-
modore Grant arrived to-day from Detroit in the " Chippawa," the largest
of the King's vessels on this lake. There was an Indian council to-day.
The Governor had company at dinner. I dined in my room.
Sat. 29th Breakfasted in the tent. The Governor went to an Indian
council; he returned to an early dinner, intending to go this evening to
Point Abino on his way to Long Point. I accompanied him in his car-
riage to Fort Erie, from whence I went in a boat to the Chippawa.
Mr. Bing, having just arrived from Detroit, went with me. I slept at
Capt. Hamilton's, who is commandant at the Chippawa, where we arrived
about nine. Mr. Bing went on to Niagara.
NOTE. Fort Chippawa was dismantled after the "War of 1812.
Point Abino, or Bertie, or Ridgeway, is in Welland County,
nine miles from Buffalo. It was here that the Fenians crossed into
19 289
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Canada West in 1866. Mr. Bing was probably the man who after-
wards became major-general and who fought against Bonaparte.
Sun. 30th The weather was so hot 1 gave up my intention of riding
to Mrs. Tice's, but having no gentleman with me I was obliged to drive
the carriage myself, which I had never done, and the roads were exces-
sively rough till after passing by the Falls. I tied Francis into the car-
riage and drove him very safely, altho' he complained of being much
bruised and shook. A violent rain began just as I arrived at Mrs. Tioe's.
Mon. 31st A Moravian woman, married to a farmer near here, brought
me a loaf of bread so peculiarly good that 1 could not but enquire about
it. She said that it was made with rennet and whey, without yeast or
water, and baked in wicker or straw baskets, which is the method taught
at the Moravian School at Bethlehem (on the Lehigh River, in Pennsyl-
vania), in the States, where she was educated. The bread was as light as
possible and rich, like cake. This woman brought a wild turkey here
during my absence; another has been seen. Mrs. Tice has the finest
melons imaginable. I prefer water melons, and eat two or three every
day. The Indian corn is just now in proper state for boiling or roasting;
it begins to turn yellow. Francis and I dine upon it. All the vegetables
are particularly good, and I eat little else. The Asiatics eat no meat in
the summer, and I daresay they are right, and the 'heat here nearly
approaches to that in the east. The people here in the summer live chiefly
on vegetables and a little salt pork. Now the wild pigeons are coming
of which there are such numbers that, besides those they roast and eat
at present, they salt the wings and breasts of them in barrels, and at any
time they are good to eat after being soaked. There is a pond before this
house where hundreds of them drink at a time; it is singular that this
pond rises and falls as a river does, tho' it is such an immense height
above it. The May apples are now a great luxury; I have had some pre-
served, and the hurtleberries are ripe. Baron La Hontan says the root
of the May apples (or, as the French call them, citrons sauvages) is
poisonous.
Tues. Sept. 1st I rode to the little mill near the whirlpool; while I
sat sketching, the trees around were covered with pigeons.
Wed. 2nd A very wet day; notwithstanding, I rode in the evening
to drink tea with Mrs. Powell, wife of Chief Justice Powell, who was alone.
She is a very sensible, pleasant woman. It was very dark and wet coming
home. Elderflower leaves take off the pain of the gout or rheumatism.
Fri. 4th Dined at Mrs. Powell's; met Mrs. Richardson, wife of Dr. R.
Sat. 5th Capt. Hamilton called. No news from Fort Erie yet.
Sun. 6th I walked to Mrs. Powell's this evening.
Mon. 7th I walked a mile this evening to the spring from whence
this house is supplied with drinking water. I gathered two kinds of
yellow flowers, which are sweet after sunset. I believe it is salep. Cat
mint in tea is a good stomatic, and sweet marjorie tea for the headache.
Sweet briar and boiling water poured over it, put into jars, milk pans or
anything that is to be washed out, purifies them sooner and better than
anything else. Mrs. Tice uses it constantly in her dairy.
Tues. 8th Mrs. Smith dined with me. 1 walked in the evening to
Mrs. Powell's. I was feverish, and felt great relief from a saline draught
taken in the effervescent state, a little salt of wormwood water and two
teaspoonfuls of lemon juice. I hear the people in the Lower Settlement
(Queenstown) are suffering severely by the ague. There are a great
rranv sassafras trees in the woods near Navy Hall, and they are very
beautiful and sweet. There are also a great many sumach shrubs by the
river. I gathered the branches of flowers of the sumach last year and
poured boiling water upon them, which tastes like lemonade; it has a
very restringent, hard taste.
290
MINERAL SPRINGS ALONG NIAGARA RIVER
Wed. 9th I walked this evening into a field which was clearing, to
see the immense large fires.
Thurs. 10th I dined with Mrs. Powell, whose company is very
pleasant to me.
Fri. llth I walked two miles thro' the woods below the mountains
to see a spring which has been lately discovered, which is said to cure
lameness, blindness and every disorder. The water tasted like ink and
looks very dark. It smells very sulphurous, and so does the earth all
around it extremely strong of brimstone.
Sat. 12th The Governor returned, and is far from well. He was
pleased with Long Point, which he called Charlotteville; the banks on the
lake 150 feet high; on the shore grew weeping willows, covered with vines;
he gathered some grapes already sweet. He returned up the Grand River,
from thence crossed a short portage into the Welland, which he descended
to Fort Chippawa. He went part of the journey on horseback, and was
much annoyed by passing wasps' nests. The wasps stung the horses
terribly.
NOTE. Years before a settlement was made at or near Long Point
Lieutenant-Governor Simcoe proposed to found there a military
establishment to aid in the defence of the new province of Upper
Canada, for he claimed that at Long Point was "the only good road-
stead on Lake Erie" and "admirably adapted for settlements." Here
he laid out a site for Government buildings and called it "Charlotte
Villa," and the township of Charlotteville was named in honor of
Queen Charlotte. The township fronts on Long Point Bay. Lord
Dorchester, however, objected to this founding of a military settle-
ment. In 1812 Fort Norfolk was built at Charlotteville, but nothing
except the trenches remain.
Mon. 14th We walked to the mineral spring.
NOTE. Along the boundaries of the River Niagara, and behind
the Falls, the elevated and rocky banks were everywhere excavated
by sulphurous springs, the vitriolic acid uniting with the limestone
rock, and forming plaster of paris, which was here and there scat-
tered amid the masses of stone composing the beach beneath. These
excavations extended in many places to a distance of fifty feet under-
neath the summit of the bank. With reference to the mineral spring,
an old resident of Niagara-on-the-Lake states that it was near the
old military hospital, which information he gives on the authority of
the doctor of the Royal Canadian Rifles at Niagara-on-the-Lake in
1850-6. The military hospital was formerly the Indian Council
House marked on a map of 1799 as well as on later maps. The
Council House was converted into a hospital in 1822. It lies on the
common near Butler's Barracks almost a mile from Navy Hall, and
on the line between the two.
Tues. 15th The Governor much worse. The heat excessive. I fell
thro' a trap-door in my room into a cellar, but was not very much bruised.
Sat. 19th We walked to Mrs. Powell's.
Tues. 22nd We walked with Francis to the school, where he goes
every day, a mile from this house. He carries some bread and butter or
cheese for dinner with him, and returns in the evening.
293
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Thurs. 24th Rode to the mill. The Governor very ill. His disorder
is bilious fever.
NOTE. This mill was in all probability the Servos mill, situated
on the Four Mile Creek.
Fri. 25th Very hot weather. Rode to Lutes' farm this evening. Mrs.
Tice has a number of standard peach trees; some produce small fruit,
others large, quite green, but very well flavoured, tho' they look unprom-
ising.
NOTE. This farm near Niagara was owned by Samuel Lutes, or
Lutz, as it is also spelled. In the first census of Niagara in 1782
Samuel Lutz is given as having cleared eighteen acres of land, and in
the list of farms on the Niagara River and back from it, near St.
David's, mention of three farms belonging to Samson Lutes is made.
Sun. 27th A wet day and very cold.
Thurs. Oct. 1st Mrs. Powell drank tea with me.
Fri. 2nd Left Mrs. Tice's; went to Navy Hall; a very cold night.
Sat. 3rd A sultry day.
Thurs. 15th A most violent storm on Lake Erie. Mr. Tukel lost.
Sun. Nov. 1st A little snow fell.
Wed. 4th Fine weather. We breakfasted with Mrs. Hamilton.
394
CHAPTEE XVIII.
VISIT TO NEW CAPITAL OF UPPER CANADA.
Late in the autumn of 1795 Mrs. Simcoe again went to York,
leaving Navy Hall on 13th November. The trip across the lake
occupied nine hours and was made in the schooner "Governor Sim-
coe," which was considered a fast sailer. Although the Governor is
not mentioned as one of the party, he was at York on 1st January,
1796, and apparently recovering from an illness, for Mrs. Simcoe
writes on that day, "The Governor infinitely better, can walk four
or five miles without fatigue."
There are no entries in the diary between November 13th and
the 1st December, while record of happenings was kept with irregu-
larity until the following March. Indeed, it would appear that the
diary was only kept at intervals when Mrs. Simcoe was away from
Navy Hall. This visit to York was a prolonged one. It covered
five months, for Mrs. Simcoe did not return to Navy Hall till the
29th of April, 1796.
She writes on leaving Navy Hall in November :
Fri. 13th We left Navy Hall at eight o'clock in the "Governor
Simcoe," and arrived at York at five: drank tea with Mrs. McGill. Mr.
Lawrence is come with us; he is lately from the States. The Hessian fly
has destroyed much of the crops in the Bay of Quinte.
NOTE. A biographer writes : "John Brown Lawrence of New
Jersey was a member of the Council, and a distinguished lawyer.
He was born in Monmouth County. His inclination was to take
part in the "Revolution; but, suspected by the Whigs from the first.
because of his official relations to the Crown, he was finally arrested
and imprisoned in the Burlington jail for a long time. Accused
of treasonable intercourse with the enemy, he was tried and acquitted.
His imprisonment proved a fortunate circumstance. Lieutenant-
Colonel John G. Simcoe, commander of the Queen's Bangers, was
a fellow prisoner, and when exchanged, said at parting, ' I shall
never forget your kindness.' He did not ; and when appointed Lieu-
tenant-Governor of Canada, he invited Mr. Lawrence to settle there.
The invitation was accepted, and, favored by the Governor, he ac-
quired a large tract of Crown land. . . . Mr. Lawrence died, I
conclude from circumstances, in Upper Canada about the year 1796."
Tues. Dec. 1st A summer day.
Tues. 8th Mr. Lawrence says the tough skins from the inside of wild
pigeons' gizzards, hung up to dry, and grated to a fine powder, is an infal-
lible cure for indigestion.
Fri. 18th Francis brings all the wood I burn in my stove from the
woodyard; I think the exercise is of service to him. He has to-day a
297
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
little sledge to draw it upon. Mr. Jones, the surveyor, says seven hundred
rattlesnakes were killed near Burlington Bay this summer. They live in
caves, and in very dry weather go down to the lake to drink; they are
sluggish, and, as they move in numbers at a time, probably would be easier
destroyed than many other reptiles. The man is quite recovered who was
bitten by one last August.
Sun. 20th A boat going to the " Head of the Lake " with letters lost
her bottom near the River Credit, but the men were saved, being near
the shore.
Tues. 22nd I walked towards the town; the snow deep enough to
drive a sleigh.
Fri. 25th A frost. Mrs. Shaw dined with us.
Sun. 27th A slight shock of an earthquake was felt this morning
about five o'clock by the Governor and almost every person in the gar-
rison but myself. The weather is calm, and there is no appearance of
the lake having risen. An express from Kingston.
Mon. 28th Walked to the town. A party began to-day to cut a road
from hence to the Pine Fort, near Lake Simcoe. Mr. Jones, the surveyor,
says the Indians killed over 500 deer in a month within a fence of seven
miles; they cut down trees and laid them in a circle of that extent; the
deer were afraid to pass the apparent fence and were easily shot.
NOTE. At the Holland River was the Pine Fort called Gwillim-
bury, after "Gwillim," Mrs. Simcoe's maiden name. In 1799, Yonge
Street ended at this Pine Fort.
Fri. Jan. 1st, 1796 The Governor infinitely better, can walk four or
five miles without fatigue, probably owing to the cold season of the year.
An express from Kingston. Mrs. Macaulay came to see me and we had a
dance. There are ten ladies here, and as they dance reels we can make
up a ball.
Mon. 18th A ball and firing, as usual on this day (Queen's birthday).
A very cold night.
Tues. 19th I walked with Mrs. Macaulay; a bear killed by "The Man
of the Snakes." I do not like the meat. It is like pork. Mr. McGill
drinks tea made of hemlock pine. It is not pleasant, but thought whole-
some.
Sat. 23rd We walked on the ice to the house which is building on
Francis' 200 acre lot of land. It is called Castle Frank, built on the plan
of a Grecian temple, totally of wood, the logs squared and so grooved
together that in case of decay any log may be taken out. The large pine
trees make pillars for the porticos, which are at each end 16 feet high.
Some trees were cut and a large fire made near the house, by which
venison was toasted on forks made on the spot, and we dined. I returned
home in the carriole. Several people were fishing on the River Don thro'
holes cut in the ice; the small red trout they catch are excellent. I
gathered black haws; the roots of the trees, boiled, are a cure for com-
plaints in the stomach.
NOTE. This entry shows that Castle Frank was used as a camp
not only in the summer, but also in the wintertime. The building
was not completed till June, 1796.
Sun. 24th A very cold day. I walked to Major Smith's lot, on which
I gathered keys of the sugar maple and partridge berries. They are
scarlet, growing on a creeping plant like stone cress.
Mon. 25th Very cold weather; the bay frozen across.
Thurs. 28th Drove again to Castle Frank, and dined again in the
woods on toasted venison. The ice is excellent. The berries of the moun-
298
PICTURESQUE MILL ON DON RIVER
tain tea or winter green are now in great beauty, their bright scarlet
berries peeping thro' the snow and the rich colour of their green leaves;
they taste like orgeat (or barley syrup), but are of a very warm nature
and raise the spirits.
Fri. 29th Excessive cold weather. I walked to the town; the Gover-
nor drove round the bay to Gibraltar Point.
NOTE. The route was east along the present Queen Street to
Woodbine Avenue, thence over the peninsula to the site of the light-
house. There were too many small lagoons for pleasant walking
north of this to the actual spit of land known as "Gibraltar Point."
SKINNER'S MILL, DON RIVER.
( From a Drawing by Mrs. Si>nc<>e.)
Tues. Feb. 2nd Mrs. Richardson went with me to Castle Frank; it is
not yet floored; the carpenters are building a hut for themselves. I
gathered fox berries. They grow like small red currants on a delicate
plant. The water elder berries are here called tree cranberries, and are
less bitter than in England. We had an immense fire to-day, and dined on
toasted venison.
Wed. 3rd We drove on the ice to Skinner's Mill, a mile beyond
Castle Frank, which looked beautiful from the river. The ice became bad
from the rapidity of the river near the mill. At the mouth of the Don I
fished from my carriole, but the fish are not to be caught, as they were
last winter, several dozen in an hour. It is said that the noise occasioned
by our driving constantly over this ice frightens away the fish, which
seems probable, for they are still in abundance in the Humber, where we
do not drive; 15 dozen were caught there a few days ago. The Governor
finds great benefit by driving out this cold weather, and likes my dor-
meuse very much. The children sit in front of it.
NOTE. Timothy Skinner's grist mill was on the east bank of
the Don River. To reach it one had to drive down the old Don Mills
301
DIAEY OF MES. SIMCOE
Road, a continuation of Broadview Avenue. The mill is just below
Todmorden. It was built in 1794, on Lot 13, township of East York,
for lots -13 and 14 belonged to the Skinner family. Parshall Terry,
a member of the first Legislature, helped to build the mill, which was
operated by Mr. Timothy Skinner for some years, and then by Mr.
Colin Skinner, who took Mr. John Eastwood into partnership, and
they used the building as a paper mill. It is claimed that the first
paper in Upper Canada was made in this mill in 1826. Skinner
and Eastwood both married into the Helliwell family, and on Mr.
Eastwood's death the property came into possession of Thomas,
Joseph and William Helliwell. In 1847 it passed into the hands of
the Taylor Bros. During their time it was twice destroyed by fire,
and once during- the ownership of the present owner, Mr. Robert
Davies. The walls, which were of stone, stood, however, and a new
roof and floors made the building as it was first built.
Thurs. 4th We drove three miles to the settlement below the town
(across the Don River), and at Mrs. Ashbridge's saw calabashes, the fruit
of the calabash tree, a vessel made of a dried gourd or shell a gourd
plant, which have 'holes cut in them as bowls to ladle out water, having
a natural handle. I brought away some of the seeds, which are to be
sown in March, in rich ground. Might not the use of these calabashes,
which are in shape like skulls, have given rise to the story of the southern
Indians drinking out of the skulls of their enemies? I saw Mr. Richard-
son's infant laid in a box, which he held by a cord, and was skating up
the bay; this gave the child air and exercise.
NOTE. George Ashbridge emigrated from Yorkshire, England, to
the United States and settled in Pennsylvania near Philadelphia in
1698. He had several sons and daughters. His eldest son, John,
born in 1702, married Hannah Davies, of Pennsylvania. Their eldest
son, Jonathan, born 1734, married Sarah James. After Jonathan
Ashbridge's death his widow and family settled in York. She
died 13th June, 1801. There were two sons, John and Jonathan,
and several daughters, two of whom were Sarah, who married Mr.
Heron of Niagara, and Mary, who married Mr. Parker Mills, of York.
The descendants of Jonathan Ashbridge are Jesse Ashbridge and
Miss Hannah Lambert of Toronto, Jonathan of Scarboro and W.
T. Ashbridge of British Columbia. Of John's descendants in Toronto
there are Albert J. Ashbridge and Mrs. R. Short, also Mrs. Hagerman
of Victoria Square. The original Ashbridge home was on Township
lots 8 and 9 in the First Concession from the bay, now No. 1470 1
Queen Street East, just west of the corner of Morley Avenue and
Queen Street, Toronto.
Fri. 5th Mrs. McGill, Miss Crookshank and a large party drove with
me in carrioles to dine on toasted venison by a large fire on the beach
below the settlements. We sat under the shelter of the root of an immense
pine, which had been blown up by the wind, and found it very pleasant,
and returned six miles in 32 minutes. Had a card party in the evening.
Sat. 6th The ladies did not catch cold, and were delighted with the
novelty of dining in the air in winter, so to-day we went to Castle Frank.
302
QUEBEC CARRIOLES ON TORONTO BAY
Mrs. Macaulay joined the party. The ice was not quite so good, and the
snow melted. It was so mild we could not wear great-coats. Francis has
a small sleigh, which the servants have taught a goat to draw; he is the
handsomest goat I ever saw, and looks very well in harness. It is a very
pretty sight to see Francis drawn in this car. They used the animal to
draw the sleigh by making him draw it full of wood. At first he was very
untractable.
Mon. 8th We set out on the ice with three carrioles brought from
Quebec, but driving too near a large crack in the ice near the shore the
horses in the first carriole broke in, but being quickly whipped, recovered
their footing on the ice and drew the carriole over the crack. We got out
of our carriage, and Mr. Givins thought he would drive better and pass
safely, but the horses plunged much deeper and could not extricate them-
selves. With difficulty the harness was unloosed, and they were set free
without injury, the water not being above five feet deep.
We walked over to Mr. Macaulay's lot and dined in that part of the
woods, and in the evening I walked home; but the carrioles went very
safely across the bay, keeping further from the crack, and perhaps the
night air made the ice harder. John Macaulay, who is but four years old,
cut through some large pieces of wcod with an axe, which made Francis
emulous to become an axema?i also; he is going to begin to-morrow.
NOTE. On September 1st, 1797, by patent from the Crown, Dr.
James Macaulay became the owner of Park Lot No. 9, consisting of
a hundred acres having a frontage of 660 feet on Lot (Queen Street)
from Yonge Street west and extending from Lot Street to Bloor, a dis-
tance of 6,600 feet on the west side of Yonge. On the same date David
W. Smith, Surveyor-General, became the owner of Park Lot No. 10,
lying to the west of the Macaulay lot, with the same frontage and
depth. On October 16th, 1797, Mr. Smith traded his lot, No. 10, to
Chief Justice John Elmsley in return for other lands which are not
named.
The Chief Justice was anxious to have a frontage on Yonge Street,
and on May 30th, 1799, he tiaded the south half of his lot to Dr.
Macaulay for the north half of Lot No. 9. Thus Dr. Macaulay became
the owner of the entire block of property extending from the north-
westerly corner of Lot Street to the present College Street and from
Yonge Street to a point 132 feet west of Elizabeth Street. On the
front portion of this block fronting on Lot Street Dr. Macaulay laid
out a plan of 41 lots, which he called "Teraulay." On this plan
James, Teraulay and Elizabeth Streets are shown running from
Lot Street north 380 feet to Macaulay Lane, now Albert Street. The
entire block owned by Macaulay gradually became settled and was
given the local name of Macaulay Town. This property at the issue
of the patent was worth a few hundred dollars. To-day it is worth
about $30,000,000.
The youthful axeman to whom Mrs. Simcoe refers was John
Simcoe Macaulay, born in October, 1791, eldest son of Dr. Macaulay.
The dwelling of Dr. Mncaulav in Toronto was a commodious
colonial cottage, known as "Teraulay Cottage," where Holy Trinity
Church now stands. Sir Jan^es B. Macaulay, second son of Dr.
Macaulay, built about 1843 a fine brick residence on the south side
303
DIAEY OF MES. SIMCOE
LIEUT. GIVINS.
CAPT. ANDREWS.
of College Street near Yonge. The site is now occupied by the
Bishop Strachan School for girls.
Lieutenant James Givins,
afterwards Colonel Givins, was
Superintendent of Indian
Affairs. He married Angelique,
daughter of Captain Andrews,
of the Lake Ontario armed
fleet,, and he had six sons
and three daughters Henry ;
James, who was, a Judge in
London, Ont. ; Saltern, who
was at one time Rector of St.
Paul's Anglican Church, Bloor
St., Toronto; Adolphus, Hal-
ton and George, of the Medical
Staff in India; Caroline, who married Colonel Hillier; Cecil and
Elizabeth. Judge Giving had five sons and four daughters, James,
Warren, Hillier, John and Henry. James and Hillier had commis-
sions in the British Army. Captain Hillier and Henry are the only
surviving sons of the late Judge Givins. Of the four daughters,
Eliza of Elgin, 111., the eldest, and Maude, the youngest, of Toronto,
are living. The only living descendants of the Eev. Saltern Givins,
the third son of Colonel Givins, are Eobert C. Givins, his son Eobert,
and Charlotte C. Givins of Chicago, 111.
Tues. 9th A strong easterly wind; a vast quantity of ice driven by
it out of the bay half a mile of ice that we drove over last night is
totally gone. A Mohawk, named Jacob, and his wife came here. They
are handsome and well dressed. She works any pattern given her in beads
remarkably well; they brought Francis a present of cranberries.
Wed. 10th A wet day. The post arrived from Niagara.
Thurs. llth A wet day.
Fri. 12th There is very little ice left in the bay. Fine weather.
Sat. 13th Mr. Pilkington, of the Engineers, arrived from Niagara.
The sudden thaw obliged him to wade across the inlet at the " Head of
the Lake."
NOTE. This means that Mr. Pilkington walked around the Bur-
lington Beach and waded across the original entrance to Burlington
Bay, which had been known as Geneva Lake or Macassa Bay up to
1792, wben by proclamation on 16th June of that year the name
was changed to Burlington Bay. In the "Topographical Description of
Upper Canada," issued in London in 1813, under the authority of
Sir Francis Gore, it is stated with regard to Burlington Bay that it
was "perhaps as beautiful and romantic a situation as any in the
interior of America, particularly if we include with it a marshy
lake which falls into it, and a noble promontory that divides them."
The picture, which is the only one known of the entrance to the bay,
shows the original entrance at the extreme north end of the beach.
It was almost landlocked in 1796. It was about a mile and a half
north of the present canal begun in 1825 and opened in 1832.
304
20
HOW WINTER DAYS WERE PASSED
Wed. 17th The thermometer 15 degrees higher than it was yesterday.
Thurs. 18th We walked to the town, and from thence drove on the
ice to dine at Castle Frank; the ice was good. I made a small sketch of
tne house. The winter express arrived from Quebec. The party who
went to cut the road from hence to Lake Simcoe, called the Yonge Street,
are returned after an absence of seven weeks. The distance is 33 miles
and 56 chains; they brought two trout from Lake Simcoe weighing about
12 pounds each, but they are not as good as the smaller trout. There are
plenty of black bass, maskalonge and whitefish in that lake. I heard an
anecdote of black bass which, if true, renders it probable they remain in
a tonpid state during the winter. An old hollow tree, which lay on the
margin of the lake, half under water, being stopped and taken out, 30
black bass were taken out of it. Mr. La,wrence, who went with the party
from motives of curiosity, speaks well of the apparent quality of most of
the land; 20 miles from hence, near Bond's farm, he saw two small lakes
near each other, from whence many fish were taken. He saw no wild
animals.
Mr. Lawrence met with some Indians, who invited them to feast on
bear's meat. They appeared to use many ceremonies on this occasion,
w.hich he did not understand. The head is always presented to the chief
of the party, and they make a rule that all that is dressed of bear's meat
must be eaten at the feast. Mr. Lawrence brought me two wooden bowls
and spoons; they are made by the Indians from the knots or excrescences
growing on pine and other large trees; they are stained red by the juice
of the inner bark of the hemlock pine, of which they make a decoction on
purpose. The children will use these bowls as basins at breakfast when
travelling.
NOTE. William Bond was a sergeant in the Queen's Rangers. He
had a farm on Yonge Street near the Oak Ridge (Lots 62, 63), 1st
Concession Whitchnrch, east side of Yonge Street. On this property
is a crescent-shaped sheet of water called Bond Lake. He had the
first nursery garden in York.
Fri. 19th Mr. Pilkington went in a boat to the " Head of the Lake."
We dined in the woods on Major Shanks' farm lot, where an arbour of
branches of hemlock pine was prepared; a band of music stationed near.
We dined on large perch and venison. Jacob, the Mohawk, was there. He
danced Scotch reels with more ease and grace than any person 1 ever saw,
and had the air of a prince. The picturesque way in which he wore and
held a black blanket gave it the air of a Spanish cloak; his leggings were
scarlet; on his head and arms he wore silver bands. I never saw so
handsome a figure.
Mon. 22nd I went to Castle Frank. The ice on the river was good.
Tues. 23rd A boat crossing the bay to the storehouses on Gibraltar
Point was driven among the ice by a strong east wind, and could not be
extricated until eight at night, when a boat carried planks to lay where
the ice was rotten, and assisted the men on shore.
Last Sunday I rode to Mr. McGill's lot, above three miles from here,
where I was surprised to see the land rise so suddenly; a narrow pine
ridge was on a steep ascent; a quantity of good building stone near it.
The weather very cold. It snowed fast.
NOTE. The blockhouse at the Point stood exactly on the spot
where the Toronto Water Works crib stands, just north of the north
dock of the Toronto Ferry Company. The formation of the old
Gibraltar Point (Hanlan's) has, of course, been entirely changed dur-
ing the last forty years. At that time the beach was a hundred feet to
307
DIARY OF MES. SIMCOE
the east of the Ferry cribwork, and in 1792-1818 there was a large
area of beach on which was built the blockhouse. The "storehouses"
stood about five or six hundred feet south of the blockhouse, and on
the west shore of Blockhouse Bay hence the name of that stretch of
water.
As to the McGill property, some pioneers to the fore forty years
ago claimed that McGill had in addition to a hundred acres bounded
by Queen, Mutual, Bloor and Bond Streets, land north of Davenport
Road. This height of land was originally crowned by a pine grove
along its entire face, and portions of the original pine growth still
stand west of Bathurst Street and at the head of Dufferin Street.
Thurs. 25th I went with a party of ladies to Castle Frank. The ice
is still good, tho' the weather is warm and hazy like an Indian summer.
The young Shaws dined with us.
Fri. 26th Mild weather. We regret losing the cold, clear air. A boat
arrived from the " Head of the Lake " in four hours.
Tues. March 1st A card party to-night.
Wed. 2nd The weather very cold. I gathered partridge berries.
Thurs. 3rd Frost and snow.
Sat. 5th The winter express set off for Quebec. An Indian and a
Canadian came from Matchadash Bay in five days, and said they could
have travelled the journey in four. We rode up the Yonge Street and
across a pine ridge to Castle Frank.
Sun. 6th Rode to Castle Frank.
Mon. 7th Very cold weather.
Sat. 12th Mrs. Macaulay came; a dance in the evening.
Sun. 13th Geese and blackbirds seen, which denotes the approach of
spring.
Mon. 14th Rain.
Tues. 15th Thaw and rain.
Fri. 18th A great deal of snow.
Sat. 19th A thin ice covered the bay.
Sun. 27th Easter Day. The ice went out of the bay this morning,
driven by a strong east wind; in the evening the wind changed to the
west and drove it back, and as it beat against the shore in a floating
surface of very small pieces it made an uncommon and fine sound, which I
listened to a great while from the terrace before the house.
Wed. 30th Wild pigeons arrived.
Thurs. 31st Walked to Castle Frank and returned by Yonge Street,
from whence we rode. The road is as yet very bad; there are pools of
water among roots of trees and fallen logs in swampy spots, and these
pools, being half frozen, render them still more disagreeable when the
horses plunge into them.
Sat. April 2nd The " York " packet sailed for Niagara and the
Genesee River.
Sun. 3rd Some Indians brought maple sugar to sell in birch bark
baskets. I gave three dollars for 30 pounds.
Mon. 4th Capt. Mayne arrived from New York in 18 days. Some
Indians brought some excellent wild geese from Lake Simcoe, and several
kinds of ducks, which were very pretty as well as very good. The large
black duck is esteemed one of the best. The abundance of wild rice, off
which they feed, makes them so much better than wild ducks in England.
Sun. 10th A little snow. A man arrived from Kingston. He left it
the 1st of April; the bay was then entirely frozen. We walked to Castle
Frank and rode home. The air was full of pigeons. I think they are
fatter and better here than at Niagara.
308
CAMPING IN APRIL
Sat. lth Commissary McGill went to Kingston.
Sun. 17th Mrs. McGill dined with me. We walked to Mrs. Macaulay's
in the evening. Came home by nine o'clock.
Mon. 18th Francis has not been well. We therefore set off to Castle
Frank to-day to change the air, intending to pass some days there. The
house being yet in an unfinished state, we divided the large room by sail
cloth, pitched the tent on the inner part, where we slept on wooden beds.
It is quite a summer's day. Mosquitos arrived at three o'clock. A
large wooden canoe was launched here to-day, built by one of the men who
ought to have been busy working at Castle Frank.
Tues. 19th A letter from Major Littlehales, dated Niagara, 17th of
April, mentions the river being full of ice.
Wed. 20th The porticos here (Castle Frank) are delightfully pleasant,
and the room cool from its height and the thickness of the logs of which
the house is built; the mountain tea berries in great perfection. Francis
is much better, and busy in planting currant bushes and peach trees.
There is an insect which is not to be got rid of; it bores into the timber
and is heard at night; it is like a very large maggot. I have seen them
taken from under the bark of trees to bait fishing hooks.
Sat. 23rd A strong east wind. Went to the garrison in the evening,
as we are soon going to Niagara.
309
CHAPTER XIX.
A TRIP ACROSS LAKE ONTARIO.
Governor Simcoe had not good health during his term of office
in Canada. While he was most careful in his living, yet he had
never fully recovered from the strain of the American campaign when
he led the Queen's Eangers in its most active work as one of the
gallant regiments in the British service. Frequently throughout this
diary there are references to his illnesses, as on the occasion of his
leaving York for Niagara he was "too ill to go on board." The trip
too was a severe one, for the cold was extreme. Yet it was five hours
shorter than when Mrs. Simcoe crossed the lake in the "Governor
Simcoe" in November; for on that occasion it took nine hours to make
a trip that was covered on April 29th in less than four hours. The
visit to Niagara extended to the 7th of June, when a return was made
to York.
Fri. April 29th The wind and weather unfavourable for the canoe.
Therefore we determined to sail in the " Mohawk." The Governor was too
ill to go on board before two o'clock. The wind blew very hard N.N.W.
We reached Navy Hall in 3 hrs. %. It was so excessively cold I could
not remain on deck, and so rough that I was sick in the cabin, and wished
I had gone in the canoe.
Sat. 30th Still very cold and snow. The vessel lately built on Lake
Erie, and named by Lord Dorchester the " Francis " (after Mrs. Simcoe's
son), is arrived at Fort (Erie.
Tues. May 3rd " The Ottawa," a government boat, left Detroit the
27th of April and came to Fort Erie in 36 hours. Commodore Grant say'd
peas were stuck at Detroit, tho' not sown here; but probably that snow-
storm which fell as " The Ottawa " left the Detroit River, killed them.
It does not answer here to sow seeds in the gardens till May, for tho' the
weather may have been long good, when ice comes down from the Upper
Lakes in April it occasions the air to be so cold that gardens near the
river suffer very much. Major Dodgson made those soldiers who would
otherwise have kept a cur keep a sporting dog, by which means he was
enabled to hunt hares and deer last winter at Kingston.
NOTE. Peas in the garden were probably of sufficient height to
be trained on sticks, which is quite a common custom.
Major Richard Dodgson of the 60th was captain from 14th July,
1790, and major from 1st March, 1794.
In 1755, Parliament authorized the raising of a regiment of foot
in British North America, and the 60th or King's Royal Rifle Corps,
formerly the 62nd or the Royal American Regiment of Foot, was
formed in 1756. It fought in 1758 at Louisbourg and in 1759 at
Quebec, and in 1760 at Montreal. Some of the battalions of the
regiment were in various stations in North America and the West
Indies from 1760-1876. In 1794 rifles were introduced into the
English army, and were first issued to a battalion of the 60th Royal
310
DEATH OF COLONEL BUTLER
American Regiment of Foot. In 1852, one sergeant and forty
privates were lost in the wreck of H.M. troopship "Birkenhead."
Thurs. 5th Sultry weather.
Sun. 8th A very cold night; we always feel the N.E. wind severely,
being so much exposed to it. At York we are only open to the north.
Snow fell last night. Mr. and Mrs. Hamilton dined here.
Mon. 9th A wet, cold day.
Thurs. 12th Received a cap from Miss Bond from Philadelphia.
Sunday 15th, Whit-SundayColl. Butler buried (His Majesty's Com-
missioner for Indian Affairs).
Mon 16th The House of Assembly opened.
NOTE. This was the fifth session of the first Legislature.
Tues. 17th Rode before breakfast. Felt agueish.
Sun. 22nd Went to the garrison. Mr. Todd dined here. Miss Russell,
sister of Hon. Peter Russell, has preserved some winter cherries which
are very good.
NOTE. Miss Russell was Honorable Peter Russell's sister, Elizabeth,
who lived with him at Niagara and at York after the latter place
was selected by Governor Simcoe as his capital. Their residence
was known as "Russell Abbey" near the bay shore on Palace (Front)
Street, at the foot of what is now Princess Street, Toronto. Miss
Russell, who was her brother's heiress-at-law, survived him by several
years. She was a most charitable woman and respected by all who
knew her.
Tues. 24th I rode with Mr. and Mrs. Jarvis to the mountain, to call
on Mrs. Powell. I gathered sassafras, a shrub in bloom. I have been
drinking the buds in tea, and it has removed the symptoms of ague. Mrs.
Powell mentioned about the weather at Detroit, that it was not unusual
to see caliches on dusty roads, carrioles on the ice, and ships sailing at
the same time.
NOTE. William Jarvis, fifth son of Samuel Jarvis and Martha
Seymour, was born in Stamford, Conn., on llth September, 175f>.
He was a cornet in the Queen's
Rangers, and was engaged dur-
ing the Revolutionary War. In
1789, he was commissioned as a
ieutenant in the Western Regi-
ment of Militia of the County of
fiddlesex, and on 1st January,
1791, received the commi=fion
>f captain in the same Regi-
nent. In July, 1792, he was
appointed Secretary and Reg-
istrar of the Records of the
Province of Upper Canada.
William married in England in
1785, Hannah Owen Peters,
daughter of Samuel Peters, D.D., of Hebron, Conn. Peters was a
Loyalist and was spoken of as first Bishop of Upper Canada, but was
311
WILLIAM JAKWS.
MRS. JABVIS.
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
appointed Bishop of Vermont. He did not take office however, as
he was such" a dyed-in-the-wool Loyalist that he would not live in
the United States.
There were seven children "by the marriage of William Jarvis
and Hannah Owen Peters: 1. Samuel Peters, who died in child-
hood. 2. Maria Lavinia, married George Hamilton, the founder of
the city of Hamilton. 3. Augusta, married Thomas McCormick.
4. Samuel Peters (2) after whom Jarvis Street, Toronto, was named,
married Mary Boyles Powell, daughter of Chief Justice Powell.
5. William Munson, Sheriff of Gore, married Anne Racy. 6. Hannah
Owen, married Alexander Hamilton. 7. Ann Elizabeth, married W.
B. Robinson, a brother of Chief Justice Robinson.
One of the children of Samuel Peters Jarvis and Mary Boyles
Powell was William Dummer Powell, who married Diana Irving, a
sister of Sir ^Emilius Irving, and had four children : Mary ^Emilia,
William Irving, Augusta Lavinia and Edward ^Emiliu?, who is of
the firm of TEmilius Jarvis & Co., Toronto. Portraits in oil of
Secretary Jarvis and his wife, from which these pictures are taken,
are in possession of Mr. /Emilius Jarvis, of Toronto.
Wed. 25th Walked in the woods. May apples, ladies' slippers in
bloom, and a beautiful shrub here called dogwood; it is more like a gum
cistus, which yields laudanum.
Sat. 28th A wet day; the Governor ill.
Wed. June 1st News received of the Treaty being ratified between
Great Britain and the United States.
NOTE. The treaty referred to was Jay's
Treaty. A writer says: "Alarmed at the rising
spirit of hostility towards Great Britain, Wash-
ington determined to make a great effort for
peace, and, with the consent of the Senate, sent
Chief-Justice John Jay to London, with the offer
of a treaty of amity and commerce. Jay undoubt-
edly did the best that could be done, and on 19th
November, 1794, signed a treaty of amity and
commerce, which the President and Senate ap-
proved in July, 1795. The treaty provided that
the pre-revolutionary debts owed to British sub-
CHIEF JUSTICE JAY. -I 60 * 8 snould De P ai ^ D 7 tne United States, and
that the British Government should indemnify
Americans for losses sustained by illegal captures. A large sum
of money was afterwards paid on this account. The treaty was
assailed in the United States by the party favorable to France. But
Alexander Hamilton defended the treaty and it carried by a vote
of fifty-eight to fifty-one." Under its terms the fort at the east side
of the Niagara River was given up to the United States.
Fri. 3rd The House of Assembly prorogued. I went with some
ladies to hear the Governor's speech on the dissolution. Miss Russell has
a collection of plants dried by merely shutting them in books; I wish I
had thought of doing so.
312
BALL AND SUPPER AT NAVY HALL
NOTE. The function at which Mrs. Simcoe was present on 3rd
June, 1796, was the prorogation at the end of the fifth and last session
of the first Legislature. The dissolution would follow afterward by
proclamation.
Sat. 4th Mr. Pilkington has erected a temporary room adjoining our
house for the ballroom to-night. It is 60 feet long, and the end orna-
mented by colours. We danced 18 couple and sat down to supper 76.
Sun. 5th Mrs. Smith dined here. I rode in the evening as far as
Mr. Sheehan's.
NOTE. A Captain William Sheehan married Miss Anne Butler
in Gosport, England, about the middle of the 18th century. He was
an officer in the British army. The only issue of this marriage was
Walter Butler Sheehan, who was clerk in the Indian department at
Niagara and was in 1793 Sheriff of the County of Lincoln. He
married a Miss Andrews, a daughter of Captain Andrews of the Lake
Ontario Navy during the War of 1812-4, the issue of this marriage
being Walter Butler, Henry Ford, George Hill, James Muirhead,
and William, and one daughter, Anne. Walter Butler Sheehan, the
eldest son of the sheriff, was Collector of Customs at Dunnville, where
a number of his descendants still reside.
Mon. 6th Francis five years old to-day. Mr.
Pilkington drew his picture. The Governor drove
me to the Queenstown landing, to take leave of Mrs.
Hamilton; it was very cold returning. I drank tea
at Mrs. 'Smith's, and met Mrs. Montigny, wife of
Capt. Montigny, on the staff at Detroit, and Miss
Hay, a relative of Lieut. Henry Hay, serving at
Detroit.
Tues. 7th We left Navy Hall at ten o'clock in
the canoe, followed by a boat. Dined at Twelve-Mile
Creek.
Some heavy showers in the afternoon induced
us to put into the Twenty-Mile, where, after being
tolerably wet and climbing up a hill covered with
wet grass, we found an empty house. We had a fire
made, dried our clothes and beds, drank tea, and
slept well without mosquitos, but the smell of musk- FKAXCIS G. SIMCOE.
rat skins, which had been drying in the house, was
disagreeable. Some strawberries ripe, and the fields covered with blue
lupines, a kind of gay flowering pulse.
Wed. 8th We set off at seven, but the men paddled as idly as they
did yesterday, so that we did not reach the Forty-Mile Creek (nine miles)
till twelve o'clock. I was out of patience that the canoe was so disgraced.
We encamped on the Point, where the boards are piled that are brought
from the saw mill; the plank afforded a shed for the tent. We walked to
John Green's, and as a room was prepared for us we slept there, but
dined at the Point. They eat pumpkin pie, which, with lemon juice, was
very good. Francis dipped in the lake. Breakfasted at seven and set out.
NOTE. This house stood about three-quarters of a mile from the
lake on what is now Patton Street, being a part of Lot 10, Con. 1,
of the township of North Grimsby. It was built north and south,
and the wings were added to the main or centre part ten years
after the first erection. The north wing was within the past ten years
315
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
removed to a fruit farm, two miles west of Winona, while the south
wing and centre were used later as a waiting room for the Hamilton,
Grimsby and Beamsville Eailway. The building was subsequently
torn down and the site is now occupied by the Presbyterian Manse
and the residence of H. H. March.
The Green brothers owned a grist and saw mill which stood on
the west side of the road, almost midway between John Green's
dwelling and Lake Ontario, the grist mill being on Lot 10 and the
saw mill on Lot 9. The frame of the old grist mill is now used
JOHN GREEN'S DWELLING AT THE "FORTY."
(From a Dram'nrj by William Forbes, Grimsby, Ont.)
as a planing mill in connection with a lumber yard, while the saw
mill was demolished about fifty years ago.
Thurs. 9th I saw very grand rocks in going towards the mountain
and passed three water falls, the first sombre and beautiful from the
water falling from various directions over dark, mossy rocks. The
second was pretty from the fine scenery of tall trees, thro' which it shone
the third, just below an old saw mill, falls smoothly for some feet, and
is a bright copper color, having passed through swamps; it then rushes
into white foam over regular ledges of rocks spreading like a bell, and
the difference of color is a fine contrast. The course of this river is a
series of falls over wild rocks, the perpendicular banks on each side
very high, covered from top to bottom with hemlock, pines, cedars and all
forest trees of an immense 'height. By camping near the bank the water
is seen below. There are stones in this water which appear like petrified
shells, but Green was not at home and I could not get any fetched to me.
Returning we noticed a scene of rocks, the lake below towards Burlington
316
AT "THE HEAD OF THE LAKE"
Bay, and half a mile to the east an extensive distant view towards the
Genesee River and overlooking the country from hence to Niagara. I
saw a cream-colour'd hawk, with <black-tip,p'd wings and a scarlet tail.
We saw a rift in the rocks, a narrow pass where wolves descend
from the mountain to commit depredations on the sheep below. The woods
are full of sarsaparilla. I gathered some wild flax at Green's. In his
garden he has quantities of melons near the river, and last year cut 800
pumpkins from three-quarters of an acre of land; they are esteemed excel-
lent food for cows, making the butter particularly good. We dined to-day
at our encampment and slept at Green's.
Fri. 10th A very wet night. I rode to-day towards Anderson's, and
dined at one at the encampment, and sent the children and servants to the
" Head of the Lake " in the canoe. Mrs. Green went as a guide to conduct
us on horseback across the mountain. Green has lately, at the Governor's
request and expense, cut a road thro' the wood, making it passable for
me to ride. The Governor thinks the country will derive great benefit
by opening a road on the top of the mountain (where it is quite dry)
from Niagara to the " Head of the Lake," instead of going a most terrible
road below, full of swamps, fallen trees, etc. We crossed the creek by
the old saw mill at the head of the waterfalls I mentioned yesterday after
leaving the Forty-Mile Creek, and found the whole of the way very dry
and good; stopped frequently on the edge of the bank to look over the
extensive wooded plain below us, which is bounded at four miles distance
by Lake Ontario, and the opposite north shore with Flamborough Head
discernible.
NOTE. This is the bend of the mountain north of Burlington,
and is quite a feature in the northern horizon, looking from Burling-
ton Beach.
The steep cliffs of the mountain, on the top of which we were, are
rocky, covered with wood, the view enlightened by fleeting gleams from
a setting sun, the view to the west terminated by Burlington Bay.
Thfe spot that most engaged our attention was named by Green " the
Tavern," because when cutting the road the men generally met there to
dine, and more wood being here cut down, the view was less obstructed
by the trees; from hence we observed the canoe with the children in it.
After we had passed these nine miles it grew dusky, and Mrs. Green
rather misled us, but at last we found a way, tho' a very steep one, to
descend the mountain. A mile before we came to this descent we passed
Stony Creek, seven miles from the " Head of the Lake," so named from
the stony nature of its bottom. It's a small stream that falls 97 feet in an
amphitheatre of bare red rocks, which looked as if they ought to have been
covered by a falling lake instead of so small a stream. At the foot of the
mountain we came to Adam Green's Mill.
It was eight o'clock, and we had five miles of that terrible kind of
road where the horses' feet are entangled among the logs amid water and
swamps, to ride by moonlight, rather in the dark, for in the woods the
glimmering of the moon is of little use, but rather throws shadows which
deceive the traveller, tho' to a picturesque eye they are full of indistinct
and solemn beauty, but little serviceable to horses who plunge to their
knees in mud pools .half full of loose logs.
By daylight I much fear these roads, and had particularly dreaded
this, but not being able to see or try to avoid the danger, and my nerves
braced by this cold and dry night, I went thro' it not only well but with
a degree of pleasure, admiring the unusual brightness of the stars, and
the immense apparent height given to the trees by the depth of shade. I
was so engaged by the scene that I did not much advert to the cold, which
was very great in passing the swampy grounds.
319
DIARY OF MES. SIMCOE
After three miles we came into good galloping ground on fine turf
by the side of the lake, till we came to the "King's Head Inn," at the
" Head of the Lake."
Here Walbekanine and a number of his tribe, who are encamped a
mile distant, were assembled to compliment the Governor, and fired
muskets in our horses' faces, their usual mark of respect, which frightened
me and my horse very much; he started and I shrieked, but the sound
was lost in the whoops of the Indians. They gave us the largest land
tortoise I ever saw.
Sat. llth At the King's Head Inn. This house was built by the
Governor to facilitate the communication between Niagara and the La
Tranche, where he intended to establish the seat of government, and its
situation was not without reference to a military position.
THE ''HEAD" OF LAKE ONTARIO.
(From a Drawing by Mrs. Siincoe.)
NOTE. The King's Head stood near the southeast or southerly
end of Burlington Bay, near the present filtering basins of the
Hamilton Waterworks, and north of the pumping house. The house
was two miles south of the Burlington Canal, 200 feet from the bay
shore, and its front faced north or northwesterly looking towards
the Brant homestead. It stood at the junction of the Hamilton
and Stoney Creek road on the west side, between Burlington Bay
and Lake Ontario. In connection with the King's Head Inn and its
situation, "Topographical Description of Upper Canada" says:
"At the head of Lake Ontario there is a smaller lake, within a long
beach, of about five miles, from whence there is an outlet to Lake
Ontario, over which there is a bridge. At the south end of the beach
is the King's Head, a good inn, erected for the accommodation of
travellers, by order of His Excellency Major-General Simcoe, the
320
2\
AT "THE KING'S HEAD INN"
lieutenant-governor. It is beautifully situated at a small portage
which leads from the head of a natural canal connecting Burlington
Bay with Lake Ontario, and is a good landmark."
Another inn was intended to be built at the Grand River. There are
eight rooms in this house, besides two low wings behind it, joined by a
colonnade, where are the offices. It is a pretty plan. I breakfasted in a
room to the S.E., which commands the view of the lake on the south
shore, of which we discern the Point of the Forty-Mile Creek, Jones'
Point and some other houses. From the rooms to the N.W. we see Flam-
borough Head and Burlington Bay. The sand cliffs on the north shore
of Burlington Bay look like red rocks. The beach is like a park covered
with large, spreading oaks. At eight o'clock we set out in a boat to go to
THE KING'S HEAD INN, BURLINGTON BAY.
(From a Drawing by Mrs. Simeoe.)
Beasley's, at the head of Burlington Bay, about eight miles. The river
and bay were full of canoes; the Indians were fishing; we bought some
fine salmon of them. When we had near crossed the bay, Beasley's house
became a very pretty object. We landed at it, and walked up the hill,
from whence is a beautiful view of the lake, with wooded points breaking
the line of shore and Flamborough in the background. The hill is quite
like a park, with large oak trees dispersed, but no underwood.
NOTE. The location of this point of land was on the north shore
of the lake, east of Burlington, Ont.
Richard Beasley was an Indian trader. He was the first settler
at the "Head of the Lake." He owned the land now known as Dun-
durn Park. It is stated by the Beasley descendants that the house
of Richard Beasley was west of the present site of Dundurn Castle
and that the building was afterwards incorporated in the present
323
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
castle, but this is not at all likely as the first dwelling must have been
built of logs. The so-called castle is a substantial residence, built of
brick and well proportioned. The late Senator Mclnnes, the last
owner, informed me that the stone building at the western part of
the castle, now used as a gymnasium, was built prior to the main
structure. It shows indications of having been incorporated in the
main building. The descendants of Beasley's family state that
Richard Beasley moved to his house at Dundurn immediately after 'his
arrival at Hamilton, or more properly speaking, Barton Township,
and that his sons, Richard, George, David C., and Henry Beasley
were born in the house, the latter in 1793. Without documentary
evidence it is believed that Richard Beasley's, the U. E. Loyalist's,
first house, was at Dundurn, and that his elder sons were born in a
house on this site.
KING'S HEAD INN, FROM THE SOUTH-EAST.
(From a Drawing by Mrs. Simcoe.)
Sat. llth We walked two miles on this park, which is quite natural,
for there are no settlements near it. Beasley's, the Indian trader, can
scarcely be called such, trading being his only occupation; but the country
appears more fit for the reception of inhabitants than any part of the
province 1 have seen, being already cleared.
The Governor says the country on the banks of the La Tranche is
like this, but the plains infinitely more extensive. Further west of this
terrace we saw Coote's Paradise, so called from a Capt. Coote, who spent
a great deal of time in shooting ducks in this marshy tract of land below
the hill we are upon. It abounds with wild fowl and tortoises; from
hence it appears more like a river or lake than a marsh, and Mordaunt's
Point in the distance takes a fine shape. I was so pleased with this place
that the Governor stay'd and dined at Beasley's. A strong east wind pre-
vented our sailing back. We therefore arrived late, and found a salmon
and tortoise ready dressed for our dinner. Walked on the beach in the
evening. Beasley gave me a weed, somewhat like a milkwort, a small
white flower with a long root, which tastes hot and aromatic, which he
called rattlesnake plantain. I think it is what Charlevoix calls senega.
There are several different plants called rattlesnake, from being supposed
324
CAPT. COOTE'S "PARADISE."
to cure the bite of that snake. (Senega or seneca, snake root, antidote
for bite of rattlesnake.)
NOTE. Captain Coote, formerly of the 8th Regiment of Foot,
was so keen a sportsman and spent so much of his time in the
marsh shooting ducks that it was called Coote's Paradise. The marsh
was between the head of Burlington Bay and Dundas, Ontario.
Sun. 12th Riding near Jones' house (Augustus Jones, the Surveyor)
and pond, we saw three deer, I suppose going to the pond. They stood
still some time. We went to Adam Green's. He showed us a spring of
salt water, which look'd thick and blue as it fell into a tub, from whence
I tasted it. He and his daughter guided us to see the Fall of Stoney
Creek from the bottom.
THE SHORE AT THE "HEAD OF THE LAKE."
(From a Drawing by Mrt. Simcoe.)
NOTE. Stoney Creek is a village in Wentworth County, on Lake
Ontario, six miles east of Hamilton. This place was the scene of a
battle between the British and Americans in 1813, in which the latter
were defeated.
Sun. 12th We went through pathless woods over rocks, logs and, in
fact, the most difficult walk I ever took, and if the girl had not preceded
me I should have given it up. We came too near the fall to see it in a
picturesque view. I crossed the river on stones. A man climbed a con-
siderable height up part of the red amphitheatre to get me a piece of the
stones. He had no apparent footing, it was so perpendicular. He formed
a singular appearance.
This part of the mountain is said to abound with rattlesnakes, and
why I did not meet them in these unfrequented places I do not know. I
gathered a great many plants. Green gave them all names, and I stopped
327
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
at his house to write them down. Ginseng, a root highly valued as a tonic,
which the merchants tell me they send to England, and in some years
has sold at a guinea a pound; sarsaparilla, golden thread the roots look
like gold thread. When steeped in brandy they make a fine aromatic
tincture and liquorice; consumption vine, a pretty creeper. Green's
daughter was cured of consumption by drinking tea made of it. Poison
vine, in appearance much like the former, but differs in the number of
leaves; one has five, the other seven. Madder, toothache plant, a beauti-
ful species of fern; sore throat weed; dragon's blood; Adam and Eve, or
ivy blade, very large, which heals cuts or burns; droppings of beach:
enchanter's night shade (a slender, erect herb, with small white flowers,
inhabiting cool, damp woods) ; dewberries; wild turnip, which cures a
cough it is like an aram.
They prepared me some refreshment at this house, some . excellent
cakes, baked on the coals; eggs; a boiled black squirrel; tea, and coffee
made of peas, which was good; they said coffee was better. The sugar
was made from black walnut trees, which looks darker than that from
the maple, but I think it is sweeter.
Green's wife died a year ago and left ten children, who live here with
their father in a house consisting of a room, a closet and a loft; but
being New Jersey people, their house is delicately clean and neat, and not
the appearance of being inhabited by three people, every part is so neatly
kept. I sent a boy to gather a flower I forgot to bring from the mountain,
and he met a rattlesnake. We rode back to the " King's Head " to dinner.
Mon. 13th The wind being against our going to York, we rode on
the beach, and had a sweet view of Burlington Bay. We passed the
Indian encampment. Their huts and dogs among the fine oak trees they
were under, formed a picturesque appearance. Afterwards we sailed to
the north shore of Burlington Bay and pitched our tents near a house,
where .we had the tea kettle boiled, but we found the sand flies very
troublesome. I found a pretty small tortoise, but boiling it took off the
polish from the shell.
Tues. 14th The wind is high and contrary; we could not attempt
going to York. This place is so delightful I do not regret it.
Wed. 15th Capt. Brant (Thayendanegea) the Indian Chief, called
on horseback on his way to Niagara, but left his sons and attendants
here till the wind proves fair for them to proceed. The boys are going
to school at Niagara. They are fine children about ten years old. They
dined with us and gave Francis a boat. Francis gave the Mohawks a
sheep for their dinner, and afterwards they danced and played at ball.
A violent east wind and terrific surf a prodigious sea this evening.
1 stood for some time under an umbrella to admire its grandeur. It
proved a very wet night. Brant's sons slept in our house, and the
Indians found shelter under a number of planks; these are here to finish
the house.
Thurs. 16th Rode to the inlet and embarked in the boat, for the
continued east wind had raised such a swell we thought the canoe
would not be pleasant. The wind was light. It soon became calm and
continued so until 12 o'clock, when it rose violently from the west, which
coming against the late swell formed a terrifying sea.
The motion of the sea was disagreeable and my fears awoke also,
till we landed at 3 o'clock at the River Credit. 12 miles from York. We
were surprised to see how well the canoe made her way through this
heavy sea. She rode like a duck on the waves. After dinner we walked
by the River Credit. Numbers of Indians resort here at this season
to flsh for salmon, and the Governor wishing to go some way up it,
which our boat was too large to do, he made signs to some Indians to
take us into their canoe, which they did; there were two men in her,
which with ourselves and Sophia completely filled the canoe. They
328
KAPIDS AT CREDIT RIVER
carried us about three miles, when we came to rapids and went on
shore.
The banks were high, one side covered with pine, and a pretty piece
of rocky country on the other. On our return to the canoe a small
snake was in it, and the Indians took it out with caution and abhorrence.
They hate snakes, which they seem to dread more than the Europeans
do. We returned to our boats, where, not having any provision left, or
money, the Governor made signs to know that they should be recom-
pensed for their trouble if they came to York. There is abundance of
salmon caught in this river. About five, the weather being calm, we
set out and arrived at York at nine.
THE BEACH NEAR THE KING'S HEAD INN.
(From a Drawing by Mr*. Simcoe.)
NOTE. The "Rapids" near the mouth of the river Credit still
exist, being situated at Streetsville. They are, however, now greatly
reduced in volume as compared with what they were even sixty
years ago. These rapids were to a certain extent navigable, as ven-
turesome lumbermen from the earliest days of the province used to
run their timber rafts down them during the spring. The Credit
River empties into Lake Ontario, thirteen miles west of Toronto.
331
CHAPTER XX.
LEAVETAKINGS OF FRIENDS.
The 16th of June, 1796, was not a very favorable day for a water trip
along the north shore of Lake Ontario, but the Governor having
waited for a favorable wind since the 13th, determined to make an
effort to reach York on the 16th. The party were in a sailboat while
a canoe followed, and by three o'clock in the afternoon they landed
at the Eiver Credit. The trip was varied by an excursion three miles
up that river in a large canoe which had room enough for the
Governor, his wife and daughter, and two Indians. The weather
calming about five o'clock, a start was made for York, which was
reached by nine o'clock.
The Governor had early in the year determined upon returning
to England. His relations with Lord Dorchester had not been of a
harmonious character, and his opinions so differed from those of the
Governor-General, especially on the subject of the building of Fort
Miami, that Governor Simcoe preferred to ask for leave of absence.
This request was answered about the middle of July, for on the 14th
the official letter came to York stating that the frigate "Pearl"
would be at Quebec to take him home in the beginning of August.
Wednesday, July 20th, was the last day at Castle Frank and on
the 21st Mrs. Simcoe said good-bye to her friends, but "was so much
out of spirits" that she was unable to dine with Mrs. McGill, and
to make matters worse she " cried all day." At three o'clock on the
afternoon of the 21st the " Onondaga " weighed anchor, and the guns
at the Fort saluted the Governor as the Provincial vessel started on
its journey around the peninsula and east on the lake to Kingston.
Of these last days at York Mrs. Simcoe writes :
Fri. 17th June Very warm day. Mrs. McGill and Mrs. Macaulay,
wife of Dr. Macaulay, dined with me.
Mon. 20th Part of the regiment (Queen's Rangers) embarked for
Niagara.
Sat. 25th We intended to have gone to the Humber in the canoe,
attended by music, and spend a pleasant day there, but Francis being
ill with fever prevented it.
Wed. 29th Very ill and feverish, having been alarmed about Francis.
Thurs. 30th Sent the children to Castle Frank in a boat. We rode
there through those pleasant shady pine plains, now covered with sweet
scented fern. There is no underwood under the pines, so it is good
riding.
Fri. 1st July A large party from the garrison to dinner. A boat
with music accompanied them; we heard it in the evening until they
had passed the town. It sounds delightfully.
NOTE. The favorite route by water from the garrison or Fort was
from the Fort through Toronto Bay to its east end and then up the
Don River.
332
FIRST BRIDGE OVER THE DOX
Sun. 3rd The Governor went to the garrison and returned to supper.
Some heavy thunder showers fell this evening and the mosquitos more
troublesome than ever. It is scarcely possible to write or use my hands,
which are always occupied in killing them or driving them away. This
situation being high does not at all secure us from mosquitos or gnats.
Mon. 4th I descended the hill and walked to Skinner's Mill through
the meadows, which looked like meadows in England. Playter was
haymaking. Going down the hill some dragon's blood seed fell out as
I passed, which I collected.
Wed. 6th I passed Playter's picturesque bridge over the Don; it
is a butternut tree fallen across the river, the branches still growing
full leaf. Mrs. Playter being timorous, a pole was fastened through the
branches to hold by. Having attempted to pass it, I was determined
to proceed, but was frightened before I got half way.
NOTE. This was the first bridge over the Don River at York at
the foot of the present Winchester Street, Toronto, placed there
about 1794.
Thurs. 7th The weather excessively hot and we find the under-
ground room very comfortable; the windows on the side of it are cut
through the side of the hill.
The winter we were at Kingston, deer were continually seen about
here, but the noise made by the carpenters at work upon the house
last winter, prevented them from coming. A fine eagle shot at the
town.
Sun. 10th Rode very pleasantly through the pine plains; gathered
tea berries. 1 saw mosquito hawks' nests, at least the eggs and young
birds lying on pieces of bark on the ground. Query, whether the mos-
quito hawk is not the " whipper will" (whip-poor-will), so called from
the resemblance of its notes to the words which makes such a noise
every night. We had company at dinner. I walked down the hill in
the evening and gathered dragon's blood, a plant or dragon root, from
which you get resin of darkish red color; Lychnis de Canada, a plant
with scarlet flower; tryliums, which resemble lilies; toothache plant, like
toothache grass. It has a pungent taste. Licorice, wild lilies, etc.
Mon. llth A very wet day and the mosquitos so numerous that
smoke would not drive them away; when it grows dark I take my candle
and sit to read on my bed under the mosquito net, which is the only
protection from them.
Tues. 12th We rode to the town by the new road opened by the
Government farm, and through the town; it is the shortest way in point
of time. The road is so much better than Yonge Street. Dined with
Mrs. McGill. Returned to Castle Frank.
Wed. 13th The Governor rode to the garrison this morning. In
the evening we went in a boat, caught a sun fish.
Thur. 14th Walked through the meadows towards Coon's farm on
the Don saw millions of the yellow and black butterflies, New York
swallow tails, and heaps of their wings lying about. Gathered wild
gooseberries, and when they were stewed found them excellent sauce
for salmon. In the afternoon the Governor received his leave of absence,
and information that the frigate "Pearl," Capt. Ballard, is at Quebec,
and is to take him to England. She sails August the 10th.
Fri. 15th Rode to the Garrison and slept there.
Sat. 16th Hot and sultry weather.
Mon. 18th Rode to dine at Castle Frank; so heavy a shower of
rain that we were obliged to quit the lower room, the windows of which
are not glazed slept here.
335
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Tues. 19th Mrs. McGill and Mrs. Macaulay breakfasted here. I
returned to the garrison with them in Mr. Bouchette's boat, and rode
back to dine at Castle Frank. Mr. Pilkington came in the evening. It
was very damp and cold. I was glad to stand by the fire.
Wed. 20th Took leave of Castle Frank, called at Playter's, dined
with Mrs. McGill. Mentioned my spinning wheel. Slept at the garrison.
NOTE. Mrs. Simcoe had brought
with her to Canada a spinning wheel
which was made by order of Queen
Charlotte, consort of George III., for
the Marchioness of Buckingham, and
given by her to Mrs. Simcoe, who
on leaving Canada in 1796 gave the
spinning wheel to Mrs. McGill, annt
of Mrs. Stephen Heward, Toronto.
Thur. 21st Took leave of Mrs. Mc-
Gill and Miss Crookshank. I was so
much out of spirits I was unable to
dine with them. Mrs. McGill sent me
some dinner, but I could not eat; cried
all day. The Governor dined with Mr.
McGill and at three o'clock we went
on board the "Onondaga," under a
salute from the vessels. Little wind,
soon became calm.
Fri. 22nd Light wind and contrary.
Sat. 23rd We were opposite the 50-
mile creek from Niagara.
NOTE. Probably about in line with
Gobourg harbour.
Sun. 24th Opposite Presqu-isle
head.
NOTE. Near the Carrying ^ Place
from Lake Ontario to Bay of Quinte.
MBS. SIMCOE'S SPINNING-WHEEL.
os^n of Mrs.
Stephen Heward, Toronto.)
Mon. 25th A side wind towards evening, fair and fresh; at half
past eleven at night we anchored in Kingston harbour.
After a stay of about eighteen hours the King's bateaux were
ready and the Governor' and his family on the 26th commenced their
journey to Montreal, at which place they arrived on the evening
of the 30th. The trip was much like the trip up the river in 1792,
and to Mrs. Simcoe it had many charms, so that the notes in her
diary are most interesting. She writes :
Tues. 26th A cold day. The Governor breakfasted on shore; at
eleven we embarked in a batteau; at six stopped at a rocky island
six miles from Gananowui, where we made a fire and boiled a tea
kettle; there is a pretty bay here. I called the island "Isle au trippe,"
from gathering trippe de roche on the rocks. It is a kind of liverwort
plant good for diseases of liver, which the Canadians going to the Grande
Portage boil and eat on very hungry days, but it is bitter and not
wholesome. We proceeded three miles to a beautiful rocky island (as
336
22
AMONG THE THOUSAND ISLANDS
we thought, but it proved to be the main shore) among the thousand
Islands. I called it "Bass Island," for the number of black bass 1 saw
swimming in shallow water near the shore. We supped at ten, the
stars shining unusually bright. We placed the beds on the trunks in
one of the batteau, which was covered with sail cloth over the awning.
We slept extremely well and so cool that we determined to keep that
batteau so fitted up for the rest of the voyage rather than go into
houses, now the Governor is so unwell, and suffers from the heat, besides
the fresh breeze on the water keeps away the mosquitos. We heard a
wild kind of shriek several times in the night; we thought it was loons,
which scream in that way. An American said he guessed it was the
painters (so they call panthers), as the sound came from the shore of
the United States, where those animals abound.
CASTLE FRANK IN THE SUMMER OF 1796.
(From a Drawing by Mrs. Simcoe.)
Wed. 27th We breakfasted and set off at seven it rained. Passed
Toniata Isles and the river of that name, then the Isles au Baril, on one
of which we landed. The wind and sea so high we had difficulty in turn-
ing the Point, from whence we had a pretty view of the islands. Dined
here and gathered hurtleberries. We afterwards came to Capt. Jones', the
prettiest point on the river; he has a fine farm and garden, and water
melons, though so much to the N.E. Here we waited until the tea kettle
was boiled, and then proceeding, passed Commissary Jones' saw mill, E.
Jones' windmill and Mr. Cowan's pot ashery, near Johnstone.
NOTE. Toniata Island is five leagues from Pointe au Baril near
the present village of Maitland, now known as Grenadier Island.
In a map William Chewett made for Governor Simcoe and enclosed
339
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
in a despatch to the Duke of Portland, 29th July, 1795, Toniata
Island is shown opposite Leeds fonntv. about ten miles west of
Grenville River. Pointe an Baril is near the present village of
Maitland between Brock ville and Prescott.
Stopped for the night at Pt. au Cardinal, just below Les Geolettes
(the Gallops, seven miles above Iroquois), which terrifying rapid we
passed in a minute. Here Mr. Hugh Munro is building a mill. The
KINGSTON FROM THE HARBOUR, 1796.
(From a Drawing by Mrg. Simcoe.)
KEY TO ILLUSTRATION.
No. 1 Is Cartwright's wharf and storehouse, built on the Horn
which turned in toward the ground now occupied by the Montreal Trans-
portation Company's shipyard, there being formerly a bay on the site
of the shipyard and extending in close to the present site of the Hay-
market. It is now occupied partly by the military stables on the south
side of the road leading to and across the Cataraqui bridge, partly by
the road itself and partly by Knapp's boathouse. It is on the north
side of the road and close to the end of the bridge.
No. 2 These buildings were storehouses, formerly occupied by the
Quartermaster-General's department. They have long since been swept
away, their site being occupied by officers' quarters within the walls
of the barracks. The foundation walls are still visible in the barrack
square.
No. 3. This is Forsyth's wharf, now called the Queen's Wharf, in the
barrack yard, on the south side and on the line of Barrack Street.
No. 4 The flag on Fort Frontenac, probably the S.E. hastion, where
there was a round tower, the foundations of whicti are visible in the
barrack square.
No. 5 Probably the gable of the present Central Hotel, corner
Queen and Ontario Streets.
340
14
AN HISTOKIC SPOT
timbers are uncovered and it has the appearance of a sketch of a ruin
in Italy. Some merchants' batteaux were drawing up round the point
with the greatest labor, exertion and difficulty, and the velocity with
which a boat appeared flying downwards with great rapidity formed
a contrast well worth seeing. We supped at ten on a fine piece of dry
ground under a plum tree and sheltered by some boards belonging to
the mill; a cold windy night. A stiff breeze astern kept off the mos-
quitos. I was only afraid the cable of our boat, which was tied to a
tree, should by this fresh breeze get loose and leave us drift down the
rapids.
Thur. 28th We breakfasted at seven. I made a sketch and embarked.
Passed Frazier's farm and Pt. Iroquois, where the Indians formerly
fought a battle, Pt. aux Pins, a fine place for a fortification, Pt. Acolo,
where Mr. Munro's sawmill stands near the Rapid Plat, Capt. Duncan's,
Grosse Point, Pointe au Gobelet and then we came to the Long Sault,
which extends nine miles.
NOTE. Point Iroquois, a beautiful point of land jutting out into
the St. Lawrence from the Township of Matilda, is now incorporated
in the village of Iroquois, Dundas County. When General William-
son passed down the river with the United States army in November
1813 (shortly before the battle of Chrysler's Farm") he met with
obstruction upon reaching Point Iroquois, as a picket of about
a dozen men, among whom were Jacob and Peter Brouse, were
POINT IROQUOIS, DUNDAS COUNTY.
(From a Drawing by Mrs. Simeoe.)
posted at this point, which commands an extensive view of the river.
The first Methodist Church in Dundas was built in 1797 upon Point
Iroquois. Croil in his "History of Dundas" writes : "A more beau-
tiful site could not have been chosen. The point upon which it
stood was the highest and most picturesque headland upon the St.
Lawrence between Brockville and Montreal, and is said to have been
a favorite spot with the Indians when holding their councils of war
'
THE RIVER BELOW POINT IROQUOIS.
(From a Drarcitig by Mrs. Simeoe.)
in days of yore. It commanded a view of the river above and below
for many miles." Below Point Iroquois is situated Point aux Pins,
the narrowest part of the river ; and Rapid du Plat is in front of
the township of Williamsburg, above Morrisburg.
343
DIARY OF MES. SIMCOE
Honorable John Munro's mill was built on a magnificent scale for
those days. It was on the point below Flagg's, just opposite the first
rough water in the Rapid du Plat.
We descended the Long Sault in an hour without sailing and seldom
rowing, though near particular currents they rowed with great exertion.
The most agitated part is towards the end of the rapids, where the river
becomes wider; here I had an opportunity of seeing the boats which
followed us; they appeared to fly. I compared them to race horses trying
to outrun each other. The velocity was extreme; sometimes the whirl-
pool turned them round; at others the head of one and stern of another
boat appeared buried under the waves. I sketched the boats. These
rapids did not appear formidable to me last year. I suppose my mind
was then more engaged by the cause of my voyage, and the Governor's
A BEND IN THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.
(From a Drawing by Mrs. Simcoe.)
situation at the Miami; then I thought not of myself; now I had nothing
to think of but the present danger, and was terrified.
In the entrance of Lake St. Francis we went to a small island south
of our course; we had the tea kettle boiled and walked about for some
time; there were many wild vines, nut, gooseberries and sumach trees;
one of the latter we carried away to make chessmen of it, as the wood
is said to be beautiful. The weather immoderately hot, and no wind
since we left the rapids. The clouds foretell rain.
We stopped at Pointe Morandiere, which stretches a great way into
the lake; we were agreeably surprised to find it a stony, dry piece of
land; the swamps are to the north of it.
NOTE. Pointe Morandiere is on the St. Lawrence, east of Corn-
wall, on the northwestern end of Lake St. Francis.
344
THROUGH THE BAPIDS OF THE CEDARS
Thur. 28th I was very hungry and impatient for supper, but much
afraid from the dark appearance of the sky that I would have to leave the
ducks untasted, for I must have retired to the boat immediately if the
rain began, for I never could have passed the slippery rocks I had to
cross after they were wet. However, the sky cleared, we supped and
sat admiring the stars till after eleven o'clock. A prodigious number
of moths or flies here, which burnt themselves and lay in the flre in
large heaps, but I did not see mosquitos.
Fri. 29th Breakfasted at six in the morning and set off with a fair
wind; passed Pte. au Bodet at nine; then Pte. au Foin, a very pretty
spot; passed the rapids near the Coteau du Lac; passed Pte. au Diable
near the Long Sault, and stopped at Pte. au Biron, on a hill from Whence
the view towards Coteau de Lac is very pretty.
There is a good Seigneurie House falling to ruins. We saw batteaux
drawing round this point where the current is particularly strong. They
ISLE AUX SOEURS, NOW NUN'S ISLAND.
(From a Drawing by Mrs. Simcoe.)
used great exertion in poling and drawing with a tow line and pushing
the boat, being above their knees in water. We embarked after dinner,
and notwithstanding the immoderate heat they insisted on taking off
the awning to go down the Rapids of the Cedars. The preparation
seemed formidable but the ensuing journey more so. People usually go
from hence in caleches four miles to the cascades, but the Governor
wished to see all the rapids and would not go on shore.
This rapid is much more frightful than the Long Sault. I cannot
describe how terrifying the extent of furious, dashing white waves
appeared, and how the boat rose and plunged among them, the waves
sometimes was'hing into the boat. Our keeping rather too near the shore
made it worse. There is a place called " the run " near the locks, which
is like going down the stream of an overshot mill, and I really thought
we never should have risen out of it. The men rowed with all their
might, and in passing it called out "Vive le Roi." We passed a rock
which really seemed to fly from us. The children called out " How fast
345
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
it runs." We did not leave this agitated and agitating scene till we
came in sight of Pointe Claire and Isle Perrot and had seen the junction
of the transparent St. Lawrence with the dirty waters of the Ottawa.
We slept to-night at the Isle aux Soeurs. The island consists of
a table-shaped hill of fine turf, from whence are three fine views: To
the north-west, looking over the immense width of the St. Lawrence,
which is like a lake, is seen the Isle au Paix, Isle Perrot, Pointe Claire
in the distance Lac des deux Montagues (the Lake of Two Mountains), the
country about the Rideaux and Ottawa rivers, and some distant blue high-
lands. To the north-east, a rich, woody foreground with a pretty sandy
beach, and the blue mountain of Montreal in the distance.
NOTE. The Isle aux Soeurs was the French name for Nun's
Island, now St. Bernard's Isle, at the mouth of the Chateauguay River,
and is washed hy the Chateauguay on two sides and by the St. Law-
rence on one.
To the south, the village and river of Chateauguay (on the river
of that name and 24 miles south of Montreal) winding along woods and
cultivated country to a great distance, the Seigneurie House, and the
river falling into the St. Lawrence forms the near view. This island
and a house on it belong to the nuns, who reside at Montreal, and here
they take care of insane persons. We pitched the tent at the foot of the
hill and near the house.
NOTE. Bouchette in his Topography states that the Seigniory
at Chateauguay belonged in 1815 to the Grey Nuns. It was orig-
inally granted, in 1673, to Le Moyne, Sieur de Longueuil. In con-
nection with the house Bouchette uses the word "Mansion," for it
could not be designated a convent, as there were only two nuns.
Being the owners of the Seigniory, the nuns resided in the Manor
House.
Sat. 30th A little rain. I walked to the Seigneurie House, which
looks like a Flemish building, examined a raft lying in the Chateauguay
River and thought its construction very curious.
At nine we embarked, and at eleven stopped at La Chine (Lachine) to
take a pilot to conduct us to Montreal thro* the rapids, which extend almost
the whole way, and are thought to be most dangerous of any, as the water
is so shallow; the great width of the river adds terror to the scene, which
presents miles of foaming waves. We stopped a little while, that we might
not overtake or run foul of an immense radeau or raft that was going
down. However, she struck on a rock and we passed her. It was a wild
accompaniment to the scene we were in. The distant view was fine; on
one side the mountain of Montreal and the town extending below, the
island of St. Helen's opposite the east end of Montreal, and near to us
that of St. Paul's, with some ruins of burnt houses upon it. On the other
side the town of La Prairie (on the south shore seven miles from Mont-
real), with the blue hills of Chambly and Beloeil Mountain in the distance.
The Governor desired me to sketch the rapids of La Chine. I believe
he wished to take off my attention from the rapids. I was more disposed
to have cried than to have talked; reason told me there was no danger,
because Canadians pass the rapids safely so many times every year, but
one has to resist all that can affright the senses of seeing or hearing, so
the pilot, to make himself appear brave, was perpetually reminding us
of the great danger, which only his knowledge could save us from. We
arrived at Mr. Gray's, at Montreal.
346
BY BATEAUX AND CALECHE TO QUEBEC.
Sun. 31st Went to church in Lieut.-General Christie's coach.
NOTE. General Gabriel Christie, born 1722, died in Montreal,
1799 ; he was a brevet-major under Amherst in 1759, and commander-
in-chief in Canada, 1798. He was also a Justice
of the Peace and a member of the Legislative and
Executive Councils.
Francis' surprise at a room on wheels was 1 great.
He had never been in any carriage but an open one.
This house of Mr. Gray's is very pleasant, from Vene-
tian blinds being fixed into all the window frames,
which throws such a sombre light that all the women
who have called have looked handsome, tho' they
were not so in broad daylight; et je me sentit valoir
dix fois plus qu'un autrctemps (and I feel worth ten
times more than at other times). GENERAL CHRISTIE.
We drank tea at Mr. Frobisher's country house.
It commands a noble view towards La Prairie, St. Helen's, Chambly and
Beloeil, the town of Montreal, and a cultivated country in the near view.
Francis, being accustomed to sentinels, asked, when he saw Mr. Frobisher's
dogs' houses before the door, whether the people here kept dogs as sen-
tinels. Mrs. Frobisher has an excellent garden; there was strawberry
spinach, which she showed me as a pretty but very poisonous plant. I
assured her I had often eaten it in Upper Canada. I have not caught cold
the whole of the journey, which I attribute to living so totally in the air.
At Kingston my trunk fell into the water in taking it from the ship, so 1
have had none but damp clothes to wear since, and no opportunity of
airing them, as I have met with no fire but where the men were cooking.
Mon. Aug. 1st I dined at Mr. Frobisher's; immoderate hot weather
and a little rain.
NOTE. The stay in Montreal was not prolonged. The Governor
had official matters, as a record says, to attend to, and he was anxious
to leave the affairs of his Province in good order. The accounts
of the Province in connection with the military expenditure were all
sent in duplicate to the authorities at Quebec, and some of these
had to be adjusted. So after three days had been spent in Montreal
the bateaux were on the 2nd of August in readiness, and on the
fifth of the month the party landed at Cap Kouge, nine miles from
Quebec, and after a strenuous journey in caleches, arrived at Bel-
mont, near Quebec, the residence of Colonel Caldwell, where they
were received by their friends, who were delighted to see the Governor
and his wife again.
Mrs. Simcoe writes:
Tues. Aug. 2nd Left Montreal at eight; passed Long Pt. (N.E. of
Montreal and on the island), Pointe aux Trembles (three leagues from
Montreal and on the island), Varennes (on the south shore, six leagues
below Montreal), St. Sulpice (on the north shore, eight leagues below
Montreal), with a strong, fair wind; dined in the boat near La Valtrie
(on the north shore, N.E., and twelve leagues from Montreal). Soon
afterwards fell a heavy thunderstorm. They furnished the boat at Mont-
real with so miserable an awning that it let the water through, and sent
very inexperienced batteau men, who scarcely knew how to manage the
347
DIAKY OF MRS. SIMCOE
boat. We were quite wet, but being near D'Autray, went on shore and
determined to sleep there. Having been there twice already, I knew we
should be well accommodated. A very cold night. The Maitre de Poste,
La Fontaine and his wife, very old people, were perfectly Flemish figures.
They supped in the room next to ours. I observe they eat onion broth,
fat bacon, and finished by drinking sour milk; after supper they played
a game at cards they called " le grand Brisque," which they seemed to be
much amused by.
Wed. 3rd Left D'Autray at eight, wrapped up in that fleecy hosiery
which has been the companion of all my travels. At five this evening
we came to Pte. du Lac St. Pierre, which is a widening of the St. Lawrence,
a league from Three Rivers (30 leagues below Montreal), where the
batteau men wished to go; but the Governor, being determined not to
lodge in a town, insisted on their going into this little bay, which, doing
unwillingly, they struck us against rocks; it was very shallow water, as
they had said. We found the beach very pleasant, and walked from
thence to a rising ground, where are the remains of Pte. du Lac barracks,
built by Sir F. Haldimand in 1789. Gathered very fine wild raspberries.
We were overtaken by a thunder shower that wetted me thro', but what
was worse, on our return found the canvas and awning of our boat had
not been properly fixed and that the beds were quite wet; there was no
remedy, so I sat by the fire and dryed my habit, eat my supper, and
slept in my clothes on the damp bed, without catching any cold.
Thur. 4th Drew a plant of wild rice w.hich was in blossom; gathered
cardinal flowers, a beautiful purple flower, sand cherries and some rasp-
berries. We went out of the bay without touching a rock, stopped five
minutes at Three Rivers to speak to Mr. Mountain. At five this afternoon
we went on shore at a most beautiful point, St. Pierre les Becquet. It
is a very steep ascent from the beach to the village, among wood and
rock. We went to the Cure's, who very civilly shewed us his house and
garden and the church, which is very neat. From the garden is an exten-
sive view. The mouths of the rivers Batiscan and St. Anne are seen on
the opposite shore, with distant blue hills. This is the finest point on the
river and a good military position. Madame Baby (wife of Hon. Frangois
Baby, of Quebec) has lands here.
NOTE. Mr. Mountain was the Bishop's elder brother, Dr. Jehosh-
aphat Mountain, formerly rector of Peldon in Essex. He and his
wife, with their son and two daughters, were amongst the party who
accompanied the Bishop to Canada in 1793.
Batiscan Eiver rises in the county of Quebec and falls into the
St. Lawrence at Batiscan Bridge. St. Anne Eiver is in Mont-
morency County, Que., and falls into the St. Lawrence at the east
corner of the parish of St. Anne.
Thur. 4th Descending the hill, we gathered nuts and wild fruits.
Farther down the river the view of Richelieu (in Rouville County, about
seven leagues S.E. of Montreal and south of the St. Lawrence), Descham-
bault (a village on the north shore of St. Lawrence, 14 leagues S.W. of
Quebec), Grondines (a village in Portneuf County, on the north shore of
the St. Lawrence and about 15 leagues above Quebec), in the distance,
with bright lights from the setting sun very beautiful. We slept at
Grondines in a room belonging to Mr. McCord, of Quebec. (He repre-
sents this village in the Parliament at Quebec.) We could not sleep on
the water, as the tide obliged the boat to be brought on shore. A very
cold night; we supped upon the beach.
Fri. 5th We set off at seven; I was extremely delighted with the high
banks and beautiful scenery in passing Deschambault, Richelieu and Cap
348
WITH OLD FRIENDS AT BELMONT
Santo" on the north shore, opposite to which is Pt. Platon (on the south
shore 13 leagues above Quebec), where we went on shore and admired
the situation, which is fit for a fine house; there is a good farm belonging
to the Convent des Ursulines at Quebec.
We dined in the boat opposite the pretty village of St. Augustine
(four leagues from Quebec), and then went ashore at Cap Rouge (three
leagues from Quebec). The Commissary at Montreal ought to be ashamed
of sending such toatteau men. They frequently asked me how far we
were from Quebec, and many such questions. The only man at all accus-
tomed to the way was dying of ague and of no use. From the St. Law-
rence we walked a mile (the tide being out) over wet ground like marsh,
interspersed with rock, which brought us to a house where we got a
cal&che, which carried us a mile to a kind of Post House, where we dressed
and set out in a caliche, ascending a prodigious steep but winding road
among red rocks and wood, and four miles brought us to Belmont, where
we found our friends well and happy to see us. They have just finished
an addition to their house, which makes it very comfortable.
As a proof of how much the Governor has suffered from the illness
he had last autumn (the fever lasted from August till November), he was
excessively fatigued by the exercise of driving four miles in the caleche.
349
CHAPTER XXI.
HOMEWARD BOUND.
The Governor on his arrival at Quebec found that the "Pearl"
had gone on a cruise, and was expected back on the 10th of August;
but, as the stay at Quebec after his business had been transacted was,
as he said in a private letter, "a very pleasant one," he was glad
to do nothing more than await the arrival of the ship on which he
and his wife were to sail to England.
Lord and Lady Dorchester had left Quebec on 9th July, 1796,
for England, in the "Active" man-of-war, but unfortunately this
ship was wrecked off Anticosti on the 15th July. Simcoe was afraid
that the "Pearl," which had gone down the Gulf to save the stores,
would be ordered to take the Governor- General to England and so
cause further delay. The "Pearl," however, arrived in Quebec on
the 6th September, and on Saturday, the 10th, sailed for England
with Governor Simcoe and his family, and after a somewhat eventful
voyage anchored off the Downs on the 13th of October.
Mrs. Simcoe writes :
Sat. 6th A wet morning. Mrs. and Miss Prescott called on me.
Bishop Mountain's youngest child died last night; they sent a very polite
message requesting us to use their house at Quebec and their carriage.
The Bishop's family are going immediately to Three Rivers, to visit his
brother.
XOTE. Mrs. and Miss Prescott were the wife and daughter of
General Robert Prescott, who succeeded Lord Dorchester. The latter
did not know he was to be recalled until Prescott's arrival in Quebec
in June of 1796. Although Lord Dorchester left for England
in July of 1796, he retained office until the following April, during
which time Prescott performed the actual duties of Governor. General
Prescott then formally became Governor-in-Chief, remaining in
Canada until 1799, when he was recalled. He died in England in
1815.
Mon. 8th Went to Quebec; called on Miss Mountain; dined at the
Chateau; returned to Belmont in Mrs. Prescott's carriage. A heavy
thunder shower when we were at dinner, but the weather still sultry.
The country about Quebec is charming. The Governor, not having seen
it in summer, is surprised at its beauty; the distant mountains appear
more grand when the wooded country below is discerned, interspersed
with the villages of Charlesbourg (four miles from Quebec), Montmorency
(six and a half miles) and Lorette (eight miles). The "Pearl" frigate
has gone on a cruise, but expected here on the 10th.
NOTE. Miss Mountain was one of the Bishop's sisters who came
to Canada with him.
Tues. 9th The Governor went with Coll. Caldwell to his mills, and
returned much fatigued.
350
LAST DAYS IN THE ANCIENT CITY
Wed. 10th General and Mrs. Prescott dined here. I am very ill from
the heat. I never felt the air so oppressive in Upper Canada.
Thur. llth Left our hospitable friends at Belmont and went this
evening to reside at the Bishop's house at Quebec, where we are very com-
fortably lodged. Our obligation to Bishop Mountain is great, for there are
no tolerable accommodations here for travellers, and no lodgings to be
hired but what are very miserable, as Mrs. Prescott experienced before
the Chateau was vacant.
Fri. 12th There is a fog like our Indian summer, with insufferable
heat. In the evening we walked upon Cape Diamond and to our favorite
walk on the terrace. There is a cherry or grape tree in the Bishop's
garden, as large as an apple tree. The fruit is the size of a large currant.
Sat. 13th We dined at Chief Justice's Osgoode. Met Mrs. Prescott.
Sun. 14th Went to church. Sat in the Governor's seat. Called on
Mrs. Dalton and saw her beautiful drawings. I read a poem called
" Caissa " in Jones' collection of Asiatic poems.
. "Caissa," a poetic introduction to the game of chess, by
Sir William Jones (1746-1794), the celebrated Oriental scholar.
Mon. 15th Walked to Cape Diamond before breakfast.
Tues. 16th News arrived of the "Active," Capt. Leveson Gower, on
the way to England, being wrecked off the Isle of Anticosti. The crew
got safe on shore, and Lord and Lady Dorchester were taken from hence
to Gaspe 1 in a schooner which, fortunately for them, was passing Anticosti
a day or two after they were wrecked. From Gaspe they were to go to
Halifax, probably in the " Pearl," which detains her from being here.
NOTE. Captain Leveson Gower was born in Maryland in 1750.
He served in the Revolutionary "War, and died in 1818.
Wed. 17th Dined at Belmont; sultry weather.
Thur. 18th The ship " Adriatic " arrived from Halifax. Dined at the
Chateau; thermometer 88. We were under great anxiety lest Lord. Dor-
chester should take the " Pearl " to carry him to England from Halifax.
Fri. 19th So ill I could not dine with Madame Baby.
Sat. 20th So ill I could not dine with Mrs. Dunn.
Sun. 21st So ill I did not go to church. Mrs. Prescott called.
Mon. 22nd, Tues. 23rd Dined at home; the heat insufferable. The
only hours which are tolerable are from eight till ten at night, when we
walk upon the ramparts.
Wed. 24th Drank tea with Mrs. Winslow; in the night the wind
changed and it became very cold.
Thur. 25th The Bishop and Mrs. Mountain called on their return
from Montreal, where they had spent the last fortnight. I drank tea
with Mrs. Smith. It was too cold to walk with pleasure in the garden.
Sat. 27th Madame Baby obtained the Bishop's order for our admis-
sion to the Convent of Ursulines. The nuns were very civil, and pleased
at my recollecting those I had seen before.
Mon. 29th Dined at Woodfield. Two ships of those destined to go
under convoy of the " Pearl " sailed to-day. Tired of waiting for her.
Tues. 30th Dined at the Chateau.
Wed. 31st Dined at Belmont.
Thur. Sept. 1st We dined at Mr. Finlay's, the Deputy Postmaster-
General, at Woodside. It is a very pretty situation. Quebec and Charles-
bourg are good objects from it, but the weather was hazy. I walked
thro' pretty grounds in the afternoon.
NOTE. A residence on the St. Louis Eoad, built on part of the
land of the old country seat of Thornhill.
351
DIAKY OF MES. SIMCOE
Fri. 2nd A wet day.
Sat. 3rd Drank tea with Miss Mountain. The " Pearl " arrived from
Halifax in 14 days.
Sun. 4th Coll. and Mrs. Caldwell dined with me.
Mon. 5th Dined at Woodfield. Walked in the evening towards Sillery
and saw a beautiful view of Cape Diamond, the Isle of Orleans, etc., under
setting sun.
NOTE. Sillery was originally a mission founded in 1637, named
after Commandeur Noel Brulart de Sillery,, Prime Minister of Louis
XIII., who gave 12,000 livres (or pounds) for the purpose. The old
Sillery settlement was within the limits of the parish of St. Foye. The
mission was about four and a half miles from Quebec, on the north
shore of the St. Lawrence.
Tues. 6th As I was getting into the carriage to go to the Chateau
the street was full of smoke, which we supposed to be from a chfcnney on
THE KECOLLET CHURCH, QUEBEC.
(From an Engraving in the J. Ross Robertson Collection.)
fire. Soon after we arrived at Mrs. Prescott's the gentlemen were
informed that the fire, which had begun in a barn of hay, was raging
furiously in St. Louis Street and approaching the Bishop's house. Gen'l.
Simcoe immediately went there and remained the whole afternoon, giving
directions to some of the crew of the " Pearl," by whose exertions the
Bishop's house and houses adjoining were saved, tho' they several times
caught fire. Mrs. Prescott and I were looking out from the upper win-
dow, when we saw a spark alight on the Recollet Church, and in a few
minutes the whole building was in a blaze.
The churches and houses, being covered with shingles (wooden tiles),
burnt rapidly, and the shingles being light, were also easily blown by the
wind, which was high, and had it not changed probably the whole town
would have been destroyed. The ships in the river weighed anchor.
Some papers were blown to Pt. Levy, on the opposite side of the river.
Our trunks being sent to the Chief Justice's, I went there to change my
352
GOOD-BYE TO CANADA
clothes, for we were all in full dress, as Mrs. Prescott was to have had a
ball in the evening. I was terrified in passing the Parade. The heat was
so great from the Recollet Church, engines kept playing on the Chateau,
which was in great danger. I afterwards took the children into Palace
Street, and sat with Mrs. Roslyn, of the Fifth Regt, till eight o'clock,
when Gen'l. Simcoe came to fetch us to the Chief Justice's, where we
slept, for tho' the danger was at an end the sight of everything still
burning around the Bishop's house made me wish not to sleep there.
Wed. 7th Drank tea with Mrs. Taylor and supped at the Chief
Justice's, our baggage being sent on board the "Pearl."
The ruins of the Recollet Church, brightened from within by fire, not
yet extinguished, had an awful, grand appearance as we walked home in
a dark night; the effect of colour was very rich.
I sent an enquiry after the health of the Ursulines since their alarm
and the exertions they had made in carrying water to the top of their
house, which was endangered by the fire; I received a very polite note
from the Superieure and a basket of plums from their garden.
Thur. 8th Breakfasted at Woodfield; returned to Quebec with Mrs.
Caldwell and dined with Coll. Barnes.
Sat. 10th At eleven embarked on board the " Pearl." The cabin is
larger than that in the " Triton," but the guns are very incommodious.
I was busy arranging my trunks, and kept as few as possible with me,
because I was informed if we met French ships we must clear for action,
and all the baggage would be tossed below in confusion. I met with one
trunk of the Bishop's clothes, but had an opportunity of a boat passing
to send it to Quebec.
I find nothing missing but a very pretty Indian basket, in which were
shoes. Capt. Leveson Gower, H.M.S. " Active," takes his passage to Eng-
land with Capt. Ballard, and four of his lieutenants Mr. Bond, Mr.
Merriott, Mr. Worth, Mr. Deighton, master of the " Active." Capt. Gower
lives in the cabin. About five we struck ground. The sensation was
unpleasant, but we were instantly off. We anchored at night.
Sun. llth Weighed anchor at five. At nine passed a brig going to
Quebec. Passed the Kamouraskas, rocky islands in the St. Lawrence,
opposite mouth of Kamouraska River; and Pilgrim Islands, four islands,
only rocks, near the south shore of the St. Lawrence (below L'Islet).
Mon. 12th The wind west, fair, but obliged to lay to for the mer-
chantmen under our convoy. There are ten. The "Brook Watson " and
" Earl of Marchmont " are very bad sailers.
Tues. 13th Fair wind and cold. We cannot carry sail enough to
keep the ship steady, on account of those bad sailing merchantmen.
Wed. 14th Wind south-east. Standing for the Bird Islands, north
of the Magdalens.
Thurs. 15th A head sea, hauled close to the wind. I was unwell all
day.
Fri. 16th A very wet morning after a rough night, and hauled close
to the wind. It cleared up at twelve. At six the Captain spoke with
the merchantmen and agreed to bear away from the Straits of Belle Isle,
about 50 leagues off. We are now in sight of St. George's Bay, on the
coast of Newfoundland, and a fine leading wind.
Sat. 17th A fine wind; passed Scaring Islands at twelve. Rather
sick; I found myself better by eating orange marmalade. A great swell
to-night.
NOTE. Between Cow Head and Shallow Bays, on the western
coast of Newfoundland.
Sun. 18th During the night I heard the officer on watch tell Capt.
Ballard there was a sail in sight, and he ordered ammunition to be got
ready. I got up, and tho' it was dark, contrived to collect my things and
23 353
DIAEY OF MES. SIMCOE
lock them up in the trunk, as I thought we might be suddenly called
upon and the cabin cleared. 1 then went to sleep again. The next morn-
ing I heard that the sail was a brig from Quebec which had overshot her
port. Capt. Ballard said we had been in great danger during the night.
It was very calm, and a very heavy swell set us on the breakers, which we
were quite near; everybody was quite alarmed and went upon deck, and
a sudden breeze springing up from the breakers saved us from going
upon them. We had entered the Straits of Belle Isle and passed an island
of ice. At nine I saw an island of ice at a great distance. It was near
Green Island, Newfoundland, about nine leagues from Cape Norman.
NOTE. Green Island is between North and South Heads in the
Bay of Islands.
At twelve we passed Portreau Bay. I looked at it through a glass
and made a sketch of it. The country appears to be ledges of rocks, with
a few scrubby pine, scarce able to grow on so harsh and dismal a soil.
I discerned two waterfalls near the coast. After passing Portreau Bay, at
entrance to Strait of Belle Isle, near Green Island, a fishing boat with
Jersey men came alongside to inform the captain that two days ago three
large vessels, supposed to be French, went into Temple Bay on the
southern coast of Labrador, and about forty miles distant, opposite Belle
Isle. The boat brought fish, and while we lay to some exceeding fine
cod were caught. A slight breeze and excessive cold weather. This
afternoon we sent the trunks below, and the cabin was partly cleared to
prepare for meeting the French.
Mon. 19th A head wind all night; towards morning a heavy gale and
great fog. We were driven back between Portreau Bay and Green Island.
At one time it cleared, grew calm and the wind fair, but a very great
swell.
Tues. 20th This morning at eight we were opposite Temple Bay, but
it was too hazy to see any distance. A fair wind. At eleven we were
abreast of Belle Isle, which is one entire dismal, barren rock. At twelve
two French frigates and a brig were seen. They soon took six of our
merchantmen, who, not having obeyed the " Pearl's " signals, were a
great way ahead of us. We cleared for action. Capt. Gower conducted
me down two flights of steps into the bread room, which just held me, the
children and my servant; there I spent six hours in perfect misery, every
moment expecting to hear the guns fire, as we lay for the enemy. Never
having been in real danger before, I had no idea what it was to be so
frightened. Some refreshment was sent me, but I could not eat. The
sailor who brought it said, " You had better take it now, for there is no
knowing when you may be able to get any more." I presently was
informed that " The Progress," in which Genl. and Mrs. England were,
was taken. At six o'clock Capt. Malcolm, of the Marines, very obligingly
offered me his room, tho' only six feet long and four wide. I lay down
with an excruciating headache, which essence of peppermint relieved.
Wed. 21st As this room, cabin or cupboard is below decks, I heard
people talking all the night, and could not help listening, even to the
cabin boys. I heard half-sentences and supposed the rest, and it seemed
inevitable for us to escape being taken. However, the next day at twelve
I was persuaded to go into the gun room (the cabin being cleared and
bulkheads thrown down), and I found that a more cheerful place, and
the officers of the "Active," having no duty, played at back-gammon or
cards with me all day long, for it was the only relief I found. Some
gentlemen were continually coming down from deck, and various were
the opinions; some thought the French would come up with us, others did
not. The French were following at three leagues distance. We are now a
mile to the northward of Belle Isle, between that and the Labrador coast.
Islands of ice were passing all the day, which made the air very cold.
354
FEAE OF ATTACK BY FRENCH FRIGATES
I wished to see them, but did not have spirits to go upon deck, and I was
told we should probably see them for some days to come.
It is supposed the " Ephron " got away from the enemy after she was
taken, but she has not joined us. A fine breeze towards evening. The
" Pearl " took the " Brook Watson " in tow twice, and her master let the
hawser go. I was glad when we got rid of her. The " Adriatic " is with
us, and the " London " was this morning, but guns were heard to-night off
the north shore, and it is feared she is aground. Mr. Deighton, the
master of the "Active," says he knew a ship which had her bottom knocked
off by the ice, and yet she came safe into port. 1 played at backgammon
and cards till half after ten.
Thurs. 22nd A fine day, but very cold. We are still in the gun room,
where the motion is so little felt that I like it much better than the cabin.
I played backgammon or cards, which tranquilizes my mind, but it will
be a great while before I recover from iny fright. It is supposed the
French ships are commanded by Citizen Barney, a famous rebel during
the late American War. He drinks nothing but water, and as he lives
hard we suppose he will fight hard. The New York paper mentioned his
cruising off this coast.
NOTE. Joshua Barney, born in Baltimore in
1759, was an American naval officer in the Revo-
lutionary War. He became lieutenant in 1776,
was captured by the British in 1777 and again in
1781. Having command of the " Hyder Ali," he
captured the "General Monk" in 1782. In the
autumn of that year he was sent to France with
despatches for Franklin, and subsequently re-
ceived a commission in the French service, resign-
ing in 1800. He commanded a flotilla in Chesa-
peake Bay in 1813, was wounded at the battle of
Bladensburg in 1814, and died at Pittsburg 1st
December, 1818. JOSHUA BARXEY.
Fri. 23rd I slept more quietly last night, as it is thought we are Safe
from the pursuit of the French. We breakfasted in the cabin. It seems
a fortnight since we left it, so much has the agitation of mind apparently
lengthened the time. The cabin appears dull. It is excessively cold. We
are in Lat. 53-54. We ran 150 miles since yesterday in the latitude of
Cape Charles (at the entrance to the Strait of Belle Isle). If we are
still driven on to the northward by these winds we shall soon get to
Greenland. Mr. Hill, one of the lieutenants, went to the North Sea, and
was obliged to eat salt pork raw, for if it was boiled it presently became
a cake of ice. This man relates so many terrifying adventures that I
scarcely feel safe to be in the same ship, for it seems impossible he can
perform any voyage in a quiet way.
Sat. 24th A south wind. At three o'clock hazy weather, raw, but
rather less cold; Lat. 54-55. I copied the action of the 1st of June from
Capt. Ballard's drawings, taken on the spot.
Wind S.W. An exceedingly heavy gale all night, and this day put in
the dead lights, the weather so bad. Meat could not be roasted, but we
had a pork pie, and tho' I dislike pork on shore, it is very good on board
ship, and an excellent salt-fish pudding. The fish, having been boiled the
day before, was now chopped up with potatoes, parsnips, herbs, pepper,
salt, and boiled in a bag.
355
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Mon. 26th A sail in sight, which proved to be the "London." A
fresh breeze still sending us northward. Wind S.W. I copied nine plans
of the action of the 1st June.
NOTE. Every search has been made for these drawings. It is
supposed that they were given away by Mrs. Simcoe on her return
to England, for there is no trace of them in the portfolios at
Wolford.
Tues. 27th A head wind; damp, disagreeable weather.
Wed. 28th A dreadful night; a very heavy gale. We did not break-
fast till twelve o'clock. The forestay sail split; a heavy sail all day.
Lat. 56-10.
Thurs. 29th Drank raspberry vinegar instead of tea and slept better.
A great sea, little wind, very cold.
Fri. 30th Lat. 55-56.
Sat. Oct. 1st Lat. 54-55.
Mon. 3rd Wind north.
Tues. 4th Wind N.W., squally; in the long, of the Western Isles.
Wed. 5>th A very rough night; wind N.E.; from 5 p.m. it blew N.W.
and an immoderate gale. The windows of the ports were broke, and the
sea came into the cabin without measure.
Thurs. 6th The gale continued all night, the sea washing in at the
ports, and deep water under the beds and until six o'clock p.m. this day.
They did not give us any breakfast, and we got up to dinner at two; the
dead lights and doors to the quarter galleries put up. We have run 300
miles in the last 24 hours. Last night went 13 knots an hour under bare
poles; parted with the " London," "Adriatic " and " Brook Watson " in
the gale.
Fri. 7th A sail seen this morning; they began to clear the ship, but
the vessel proved to be the " Hope," of New London ; these are the first
American colours I have seen. A calm after one o'clock; wind S.S.W.
this evening.
Sat. 8th The ship in soundings on the Great Sole Bank, off the Eng-
lish coast. At eight the wind changed and blew fresh from the N.W.
Some ships seen. The cabin was begun to be cleared, but this having
happened two or three times, and no further ill consequences ensued, I
now see this preparation with indifference, which had before inspired me
with s<o much terror. I had continued drawing as long as tihey left a
table in the -room. The ships were soon discovered to be India-men. In
the evening we passed another, to whom we spoke. She was from
Jamaica; had parted from her convoy in a dreadful gale of wind four
days since, in which her top sails were split. We ran nine knots an
hour under bare poles.
Note. Great Sole Bank lies in latitude 49 23' north, longitude
10 16', and continues 30 miles northeast by east. It is 7 miles long
by 7 miles wide and lies 120 miles southwest of the Fastnet Light and
130 miles west of the Scilly Islands Lights. Its greatest depth is
70 fathoms.
Sun. 9th We spoke to a West India vessel, called " The Lioness," aim
took her under convoy. She parted company from 130 sail in the late
gale. A fair wind to-day, and we ran eight knots an hour. I went on
deck to-night to see the lead heav'd and the ship lay to. It was a terrific
sight when ahe turned her side to the wind. The waves seemed as if
they would overwhelm the ship, and the noise was frightful.
356
IN SIGHT OF OLD ENGLAND
Mon. 10th Passed the Islands of Scilly this morning; three or four sail
seen; we spoke to one under Danish colours; the Land's End seen at one
o'clock.
Tues. llth We stood close for Berry Head, on south coast of Devon,
intending to go on shore at Tor Bay. This landing would have been more
convenient for Gen. Simcoe, as he desired to go to Exeter. But the wind
freshened so much it was impossible to get on board the fishing boats,
which we saw at a little distance. Two hours sooner it might have been
done, but we lay to for two or three hours in the morning to press men
out of the India-men, and since that the wind has risen. Sophia wishes
to be on shore, but Francis, never having been sick, thinks it a pity to
quit the ship he is so fond of, and leave Beau and Bell, the captain's
dogs, who are his constant playfellows. He is determined to be a sailor.
Wed. 12th A fine day and fair wind, but we lay to so long for the
convoy that we did not pass Dover till late. We anchored in the Downs,
off the coast of Kent, at eight o'clock. It is difficult to go on shore here
if the weather is not very calm, notwithstanding the extreme skilfulness of
the Deal boatmen. We passed Beachy Head, where the cliffs are white,
and Hastings, a brick town, this morning. In the afternoon the
"Diamond" and "Melampus," frigates, passed us. It was a very fine sight
to see those large frigates cut thro' the waves with so much swiftness, and
they are handsomer objects than a line of battleships, which are heavier;
they were painted black and yellow, with white figure-heads. A pretty,
light, small vessel followed them, supposed to be Russian built.
Thurs. 13th We anchored very near a large Indiaman. I was waked
in the night by hearing a sailor call out that we should be aboard the
Indiaman, and having heard of such accidents in the Downs, I did not
like the alarm.
This morning I was much pleased with seeing the number of vessels
in the Downs. The " Ville de Paris " got under weigh and passed close
to us, but being under jury masts she looked extremely heavy and clumsy
and of an immense size. I liked the frigates better. A wet morning;
we landed at one o'clock. Capts. Ballard, Gower and some officers of the
" Pearl " dined with us at the inn at Deal.
We took a friendly leave of men in whom we were much interested,
having lived so much in their company for seven weeks; they both offered
their best services for Francis. From my experience of people, I am as
anxious he should be a sailor as he is to be one. Francis came downstairs
in the inn backwards, as he used to descend the ladder on board the
" Pearl." I felt it a great happiness to find the rooms steady, and not
roll like the ship.
Fri. 14th Genl. Grinfield came to breakfast with us, and invited us
to dine at Dover with Mrs. Grinfield, which place we set out for after
breakfast, and drove eleven miles thro' a bleak, barren country, and when
I came to the hill at Dover I was amazingly struck with the grandeur of
the scene, the grand appearance of the castle on those very high cliffs,
part of the building in good and habitable preservation, the rest in ruins;
a grand site and a building adapted to it. The bold cliffs, the town and
beach beneath, form a charming picture, and the horizon of the sea was
terminated by the fleet, which sailed yesterday, the "Ville de Paris"
towering above the rest; we sailed round her before we came on shore,
but a large frigate, such as the " Diamond," is a finer sight to my taste.
The fresh east wind has probably sent them back.
We walked round the works, which are enlarging about the castle.
Capt. Bruyere, of the Engineers, went with us; he has been long in
Canada, to which country he was much attached, therefore I was delighted
to talk with him.
We noticed the Roman brick very visible in one of the towers which
is in ruins. We distinguished the coast of France, a part of which looks
like Beachy Head. I was shown the church at Calais and the entrance
357
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
of Boulogne harbour. Saw the brass cannon given to Queen Elizabeth
by the Dutch; it is 24 feet long, beautifully carved with figures of Brit-
annia and the "God of the Scheldt." We went thro' the communication
lately cut underground thro' the hill from the castle to the town; it is
a handsome stone staircase of twelve hundred steps; at the bottom of
every two or three hundred feet it is lighted by a passage and window
at the extremity of the rock; we descended with a lanthorn; it cost 700.
I was much pleased with Capt. Bruyere, for he talked with delight of
Canada. He married a sister of Mrs. Selby's, of Montreal.
It was extremely cold walking on the hill. We spent some hours very
pleasantly with Mrs. Grinfield, and at seven at night set off for Canter-
bury. A very violent rain this morning. Canterbury is fifteen miles
from Dover. We arrived in the dark, very much fatigued.
NOTE. William Grinfield, colonel of the 8th Regiment of Foot,
16th May, 1787, became major-general, 13th June, 1793, and lieu-
tenant-general, January, 1798.
Captain Bruyere of the Royal Engineers was one of the military
Land Board at Niagara in 1791. He died of exposure in the War of
1812. Mrs. Selby, wife of Dr. George Selby, of Montreal, was for-
merly Miss Dunbar, daughter of Major Dunbar. Dr. Selby, who
was born in England and educated at the College of St. Omer, came
to Canada about 1781. He died in 1835.
Sat. 15th Damp, raw weather. Went to see the cathedral, which 1
greatly admired; the style of building is peculiarly grand and simple,
and the ascent to the choir by steps has a grand effect. There is a monu-
ment of Edward, the Black Prince, in brass, in great preservation. The
armour, helmet and gloves he wore at Cressy are hung over it.
A head of Dean Watson carved in stone, done in Italy, is a fine piece
of sculpture, and there are many pieces of stone work curiously executed;
there is a great deal of painted glass; a good picture of a Pope, but it has
been shot thro' during the civil wars in Cromwell's time.
Thomas a Becket's tomb is plain. The stone around is deeply worn
by having been knelt upon, as is said. There is a good monument of
Henry IV. and his Queen. The ship called the " Great Harry," with four
masts, built in Henry V.'s reign, is represented in stone. This cathedral
has the advantage of Salisbury in not having been modernized.
The country from Canterbury to Dartford (18 miles below London
on the Thames) is woody and beautiful; some views of the Medway and
Thames.
The weather is damp, raw and unpleasant. I could not but observe,
as we passed many houses, that those mansions appeared very comfortable
habitations, in which people might live very happily, but it could not be
supposed they could ever be induced to go out of them in such a damp
climate, for the fields looked so cold, so damp, so cheerless, so uncomfort-
able from the want of our bright Canadian sun that the effect was
striking, and the contrast very unfavourable to the English climate. We
slept at Dartford.
Sun. 16th A beautiful country from Dartford to London. On the
road I passed a remarkable fine Cedar of Lebanon. Arrived at the hotel
in Cork Street, London, at ten o'clock.
358
CHAPTEE XXII.
AGAIN AT WOLFORDSIMCOE'S DEATH.
Mrs. Simcoe's sojourn in Canada was always regarded by her
with pleasurable recollections. She had made many friends in the
land across the sea. Her husband had had the honor of establishing
the first Provincial Government when Upper Canada was marked
upon the map as the western Province of the old. Province of Canada.
Nor did she forget the kindness and courtesy that had been so
gracefully accorded to both herself and her husband, from the day
in October, 1791, when they landed at Quebec, till that day in Sep-
tember, 1796, when they were homeward bound from the same port.
True, she had two of her children with her, but there were four others
at home. She longed to see them, for although their daily lives were
recorded by monthly letters from Mrs. Hunt, yet her desire for her
little ones gave her hours of depression. Then she remembered with
tears the green knoll in the military burying ground at York that
covered the little one, the first Katherine, who, born at Navy Hall,
Niagara, in January, 1793, died and was buried at York (Toronto)
in April, 1794.
When the "Pearl" anchored in the Downs, within sight of the
white cliffs of England, Mrs. Simcoe realized that she was not far
from the home of her childhood. She spent a few hours at Deal, a
day with friends in Dover and Canterbury, a couple of days in Lon-
don, and then proceeded southwest by coach to Exeter.
Glad was the welcome at Wolford. A letter written from Quebec
in July had informed Mrs. Hunt that probably at the end of August
the General and his wife would sail for England. Then a second
letter in August said that they would sail about the end of the
first week in September so as to arrive in England about the middle
of October; and almost within a day of the promised time did the
family carriage and pair, which had been sent down to Exeter to
meet the home-comers, drive up to the door of Wolford.
Never was there a happier meeting. Mrs. Hunt and her daughter
were as eager to see them as were the children, who waited eagerly
for their father and mother and for the brother and sister whom they
had not seen for five long years. The delight was mutual. The
old home looked bright and cheerful on that October afternoon,
and the day closed with worship read by the master surrounded by
his household. The countryside knew of the General's return and
the County families, glad to renew their friendships, were not long in
calling at Wolford.
The old home life was quietly resumed. Much of the General's
energy was thrown into the improvement of his estate, for but little
along that line had been done during the years of his absence. The
359
DIAKY OF MES. SIMCOE
family were early risers, always up with the lark. The General was
usually around with Mr. Scadding as early as six o'clock in the
morning, and Mrs. Simcoe and one of her daughters frequently took
a five-mile ride before breakfast.
Eliza Simcoe was now a girl of twelve years of age, while her
sister, Charlotte, was eleven. Both girls showed extraordinary interest
in their studies. They were lovable children, and as their governess
said "excellent examples in every way" for Henrietta and Caroline
and Sophia, who were nine, eight and seven years respectively.
Then the little ones from Canada were a welcome addition to the
family circle which had been broken for five years. Prancis Gwillim
was a sturdy little fellow of five years, who in his own esteem was
most important, for he had "talked to the Indians," and his sister,
Sophia, who was two years his senior, did not forget to tell those who
came her way that she too had shared the honor of being introduced
to the "great red Chief Brant" when he came to see her father at
Navy Hall.
In December of 1796, the General determined to accept the ap-
pointment of Commander-in-Chief at San Domingo. The announce-
ment came as a shock to Mrs. Simcoe, who felt that her husband was
not a robust man and the climate of the "West Indies would not
improve his health.
This was emphasized in a letter that the General wrote to the
authorities at the end of the year, asking an assurance from the
Government that it would provide for his family in case he should
"perish in the mission which he was about to proceed upon." He
had pointed out that twice in his life he had been " obliged to quit
a Southern climate even without contagion to preserve life " and asked
for the consideration of his claim.
That it was acceded to is shown by a letter written on December
6th, 1796, to the Honorable William Pitt, thanking him for giving
the guarantee that in case of death his family would be provided for.
In January arrangements were made for his departure for San
Domingo in the following month ; and his new and arduous duties
commenced when in March of 1797, he landed at Port au Prince.
The climate of San Domingo was not propitious; for the scourge
of yellow fever had played havoc not only with the inhabitants, but
with many men in the British forces. But the General, as is shown
in his biography, did much in a short time to re-establish the British
character in an island that was rank with revolution and insurrec-
tion, and returned to England in September of 1797 to secure a force
sufficient to make paramount the authority of British arms.
His reception at Wolford was a welcome long to be remembered.
Mrs. Simcoe was delighted to see her husband again in the family
home. She was anxious ' that his health, which had not been
improved by residence in a West Indian clime, should be thoroughly
recuperated by the balmy air of Devon and the regular life at Wolford,
and it came about as she had wished.
360
WOLFORD A SOCIAL CENTRE
Just two years had passed when another son was born at Wolford,
in July, 1798 John Cornwall., the second son of the household.
Wolford was a centre from which all sorts of enjoyment radiated.
In the years that followed, the calling days were more like miniature
court receptions, and a score of carriages of county people at the one
time was not an unusual sight in front of Wolford Lodge.
A letter written in 1800 by a Devon lady says, "The drawing-room
at Wolford on a reception day is most enjoyable, for it is filled
with well-dressed men and women, for the county people always liked
the Simcoes." Another letter states that "going to Wolford was like
going to Court/'
Though small in stature, Mrs. Simcoe was proud and somewhat
autocratic in manner, most dignified, and commanding respect. Her
daughters recognized these characteristics in their mother. They had
been early taught that absolute obedience was a pre-requisite and that
what the father and mother ordered was a law unto all concerned.
Even on entering a room if their mother was present they would
not dare, so states a Wolford chronicler, who knew Mrs. Simcoe, "to
sit down without permission."
In October, 1798, Major-General Simcoe was gazetted a lieuten-
ant-general and in 1801 was appointed to the command of the garri-
son at Plymouth in the absence of the Governor and of Lieutenant-
General Grenville. This new charge took him away from Wolford, but
as he returned frequently his wife, anxious that he should have every
opportunity of building up his health, did not look with disfavor
on this new appointment.
In the year 1800 a third son was born, Henry Addington, and
for him Mrs. Simcoe had always a particular affection. The after-
life of this pattern among men bore silent testimony to the tender
care and upbringing by a Christian mother. This gifted son was
born at Plymouth, where the Governor and his wife had been resident
during December of 1799 until February of 1800.
Family responsibilities again increased in 1803, when the second
Katherine was born at Wolford, and in 1804 Anne was born. She
always declared that she remembered her father, although she was less
than three years of age when he passed away.
But from 1800 until 1806, the daily routine of Mrs. Simcoe's
life was not very varied. She occasionally visited London and was
generally accompanied by one of her elder daughters. A favorite
residence in town was at 53 Welbeck Street, fashionable lodgings
patronized by leading Devon families when visiting town.
The General's position as commander of the Western Military
District, which consisted of Dorset, Somerset, Devon and Cornwall,
brought many people to Wolford. The threatened invasion of Britain
by France had given special importance ' to his District, and all
orders were issued from Wolford.
As John Bailey, an old servant who wrote an account of the
General and his family, says in his narrative, "there were often ten
or fifteen carriages there in a day, as all the head gentry in Devon-.
361
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
shire visited Wolford and so many officers came on duty for orders.
I have known three or four Lords staying at Wolford at one time."
The activities of the day at Wolford always opened with family
prayer, at which all the household were present. The general read
the service. "It was somewhat imposing," as a visitor of a century
ago remarked, "to see the maid-servants headed by the housekeeper,
and the men-servants, headed by the butler seventeen in all file
into the dining-room morn and eve and hear the master or the mis-
tress of the house read and comment on the chapters selected for
daily worship." To-day the daily routine is the same just as it
was a hundred years ago when the general and his wife read the
Holy Writings and knelt at God's altar with their household.
It is a matter of surprise that the General did not seem to
know of the condition of his health when he was appointed in July
of 1806 as commander-in-chief in India. If he did, he said nothing
to his wife about it. The General had hardly accepted the position
of commander-in-chief in India when orders came from Downing
Street for him to proceed to Portugal, to act with the Earl of Bosslyn
and the Earl of St. Vincent on a special mission to the Court of
Lisbon; for the British Government had been informed of the in-
tention of France to invade Portugal.
This caused Mrs. Simcoe to delay her preparations for India.
The General had sailed for Portugal and had arrived at Lisbon on
the 26th of August, 1806. Here he was taken ill, but he was not
thought to be in a serious condition until the third week in Sep-
tember, when he was ordered to return to England by his physicians.
Mrs. Simcoe in the meantime proceeded about the end of Sep-
tember to London to purchase her outfit for her voyage to the East.
She was accompanied by her daughter Eliza. But they had hardly
got settled in London when a letter came from Exeter, stating that
the General had returned from Portugal and was seriously ill at
Archdeacon Moore's house in the Cathedral Close at Exeter. A
hurried departure was made and in less than twenty-four hours by
coach the mother and her daughter had covered the distance between
London and Exeter, arriving at the Archdeacon's house a day or so
before the General's death.
The story of the journey from Lisbon, his landing at Topsham,
his arrival and death at Exeter and his burial when the shades of
evening had fallen at the chapel at Wolford, will be told in another
volume. It was as a bolt out of the blue for Mrs. Simcoe and her
family. The daughters Eliza, Charlotte, Henrietta, Caroline and
Sophia, were old enough to give some comfort to their widowed mother,
and cheering too was the declaration of Francis Gwillim, then fifteen,
that it would always be his aim to take pattern from the life of his
father. John Cornwall, the second son, born in 1798, had died in
infancy. The other surviving son, Henry Addington, was but five
years of age as he stood with his sisters and held the hand of Kath-
erine, his four-year-old sister, at the burial in the twilight of that
November evening at Wolford.
362
CHAPTER XXIII.
MRS. SIMCOE AND HER CHILDREN.
The death of General Simcoe brought to Mrs. Simcoe many
expressions of sympathy. Those high in position, military and civil,
paid to her their sad tributes for the great loss she had sustained. The
rich and poor knew that in the passing away of the General they had
all lost a kindly and generous friend.
The old-time visitors who had spent pleasant days and weeks at
Woll'ord manifested in their letters of sympathy the deep regard
in which they had held the General and how much grief they felt
for the widowed mother and her children.
But deep and genuine as was the sympathy, it did not lessen the
sorrow at Wolford. From what I have been able to learn from those
who knew Mrs. Simcoe, the death of her husband marked a great
change in her life.
She had the younger children to bring up and educate, and occu-
pied her time in looking after the welfare of her family. Her deep
interest in those who lived on her estate was constant. She was
continuous in good works and her endeavors in that direction earned
for her the respect, regard and love of all those who lived in the
country surrounding Wolford.
Francis Gwillim, whose ambition had been to follow in the
path of his late father and enter the army, was educated with that
intent, and secured a lieutenancy in the 27th Regiment of Foot in
1811, when he was in his twenty-first year.
His regiment was ordered to the Continent under the Viscount
Wellington, but the service of young Simcoe was not a lengthened
one; for he was killed in April, 1812, at the siege of Badajoz, and
was buried upon the field of battle.
For some years Mrs. Simcoe did not journey far from Wolford.
Once or twice she visited her birthplace, " Old Court," near Whit-
church, in Herefordshire ; but from about 1825 her favorite touring
spot was North Wale?, which she generally visited once a year.
Sometimes her daughter Caroline accompanied her, and in -all
these excursions she was attended by her faithful servant, John
Bailey, whose narrative gives so many incidents and experiences in
travelling with his mistress.
After her son, the Rev. Henry Addington, had reached manhood's
estate and married and had purchased the ancient manor of Penheale
in Cornwall, Mrs. Simcoe paid him regular visits : but the house
was not large, the guest chambers were few, so that Mrs. Simcoe
spent her day with her son and stayed at Launceston, four miles from
Penheale, every night.
363
DIAEY OF MES. SIMCOE
His first wife was Anne, daughter of Rev. Edward Palmer of
Moseley, County Worcester. After her death he married Emily,
daughter of Rev. Horace Mann of Mawgan, County Cornwall. A
daughter by this second mar-
riage is Emily, known as
Mother Emily Clare, Superior
of the Wantage Sisters Mission,
Poonah, India.
Penheale Manor is men-
tioned in the Doomsday Book.
It was improved by Mrs. Sim-
coe about 1830. The dwelling
was in two distinct divisions
with a courtyard, dividing two
parallel wings, which were, in
_ fact, two houses of different
rCEV. -H.. A. olMCUJcj. n ^ ^ .
periods and of architecture. It
is probable that at the time of Mrs. Simcoe's visits only one part of
the house was in use. But after the improvements the Rev. Henry
Addington Simcoe used both parts. He had a printing press in the
part they called "across."
MOTHER EMILY
CLARE.
PENHEALE MANOR.
(From a Picture in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
Mr. John Henry Vowler-Simcoe, eldest son of the late J. N.
Vowler of Parnacott, Cornwall, who married Mary Northcote, second
364
MRS. SIMCOE ON THE MARRIAGE QUESTION
daughter of the Rev. Henry A. Simcoe, has assumed by Royal License
the additional surname and arms of Simcoe, and succeeded on the
death of his uncle, Mr. Samuel Simcoe, to Penheale Manor, Corn-
wall.
John Bailey's description of the tours with Mrs. Simcoe and her
daughters in North Wales would do credit to the pages of a modern
travel book. His drive of forty-two miles when Miss Harriet desired
to go from Beddgelert, on the borders of Carnarvonshire, to Bala in
Merionethshire, and his return on foot, shows how devoted he was to
his mistress and her family.
Cheltenham in Gloucestershire was another favorite place of Mrs.
Simcoe and her daughters. It was the only place where she made
lengthened stay from Wolford. Bath was a popular resort in the
thirties and forties and the daughters of the family always favored
DUNKESWELL ABBEY CHURCH.
(From a Drawing by Mi*s Harriet Simcoe.)
it. Eliza, the eldest daughter, and Caroline, the third daughter,
resided there about 1852, and both died there.
Mrs. Simcoe had strong opinions upon the marriage question.
She herself had not hesitated to enter matrimony when she was
sixteen years of age, but when it came to a question as to the mar-
riage of any of her daughters, for some reason or other she always
opposed it. It must be remembered that all the daughters were
clever, prepossessing and well-educated women.
One suitor who pressed his claim without success was the late
Sir Thomas Dyke Acland of Devonshire, a man of admirable char-
acter; and two members of the nobility from other counties shared
a similar fate. Mrs. Simcoe was obdurate. Her word was law, and
her daughters, rather than incur her displeasure, accepted the situa-
tion, and all, with one exception, died unmarried. Some years after
Mrs. Simcoe's death Anne married a Mr. Alford, who resided in
Herefordshire, but left no issue.
365
DIAEY OF MES. SIMCOE
The three daughters, Eliza, Caroline and Anne, were not only
proficient in domestic economy, but they inherited a good deal of the
commonsense that was a feature in the character of both their father
and mother. In parish work they were indefatigable. Each daugh-
ter had her own parish one that of Dunkeswell Abbey, another
Luppit and the third that of Dunkeswell. Every parish had its
schoolhouse and its teachers, and many of the generations that sur-
round Wolford to-day, although their lives have fallen into the sere
and yellow leaf of old age, remember most gratefully what "the young
ladies" did for them when the primer and the slate pencil were
essentials in their early training.
A RESTFUL 'SPOT AT PENHEALE.
(From a Picture in the J. Ross Robertson collection.)
" Holv Trinity," Dunkeswell Abbey 'Church, was built by Mrs.
and the Misses Simcoe in 1842. It is in the Early English style, and
with the burial ground occupies the site of the ancient abbey, which
was founded by Lord de Brewer in 1201 for Cistercian monks, who
were endowed with the manor and other lands. Only a fragment of
the Abbey now remains. The interior of the 'church is very hand-
some, with several stained glass windows and columns, the capitals
of which were carved by the Misses Simcoe. The altars are of carved
stone by these ladies.
3GG
DEATH OF MRS. SIMCOE
The Rev. Henry Addington Simcoe, of Penheale Manor, the heir
to the estate, made frequent visits to Wolford. For him his mother
had a most affectionate regard. His loving disposition, his exemplary
character and his earnestness in carrying on Christian work in Eglos-
kerry, were most gratifying to her. During the last years of his
mother's life his delight was to spend a few days at Wolford, when
parish work would permit his absence, and when her end came he
was with her. As John Bailey in his quaint way writes, " So her last
day came and she died in a good old age full of days, riches and
honour."
During the last years of her life Mrs. Simcoe did not make any
prolonged tours. She had always favored Cheltenham, but in 1848-9
she preferred Sidmouth on the South Devon coast, thirteen miles
from Wolford, and these trips were not prolonged ones. At Wolford
during the last summer of her life, when the weather was fine, an
hour's drive on the estate and its neighborhood refreshed her.
In the autumn of 1849 her strength began to fail. If weather
permitted she enjoyed an hour in a wheel chair guided by the faith-
ful Bailey, but as the old year passed out and the new year entered,
her family began to see that that day which never changes must
soon come to her who had sixty-eight years before stood at the altar
in Buckerall Parish Church.
On the 17th of January, 1850, at the age of eighty-four years,
twenty-four of which were in married life and forty-four in widow-
hood, Elizabeth Posthuma Simcoe passed away.
The announcement of her death was not unexpected in the county.
It brought many messages of sympathy from the large circle of
family friends and expressions of grief and sadness from the ten-
antry on the estate, and from the people of the parish, all of whom
had the deepest regard and respect for the family of Simcoe. The
funeral was attended by the leading families of the county.
The clergy of the neighboring parishes, the tenantry on the estate,
the laborers from the farms and the household servants, formed in
line as the coffin, carried from the main entrance of Wolford, fol-
lowed by the seven surviving children, Eliza, Caroline, Sophia,
Henry, Katherine, Charlotte and Anne, was borne through the
garden walks to the private chapel.
The impressive service for the dead was read by the Rev. Mr.
Muller, the Vicar of Dunkeswell, the clergyman who had been most
attentive to Mrs. Simcoe during her last illness, after which the silent
gathering re-formed and followed the coffin to the east end of the
chapel, where in a grave close by that of her husband the body
was buried.
Mrs. Simcoe was a genuine Christian. She took a deep interest
in all matters pertaining to religion and endeavored to practise in
her daily life the works that are characteristic of a Christian woman.
She constantly thought not of her own happiness but of the happiness
367
DIAEY OF MES. SIMCOE
of others, and the deep regret in the country-side at her passing
away justified the expression that she was indeed much loved as the
Lady of the Manor.
Her daughter, Anne, in writing to the present Mrs. Simcoe,
shortly after her mother's death, said:
"A prominent factor in my mother's character was humility
humility before God and man. Her retrospect of life would only have
led her more gratefully to rest all on Christ, feeling she owed all
to Him. As she says, ' I could not offer a prayer or praise that would
be accepted but through Jesus Christ our Lord. May I feel daily
more and more trust in this Saviour, and may Hs quicken and sup-
port me at the hour of death and on my approach to death.' And
again, 'Strengthen me, Lord, for my dying hour; may the strength
of the Lord be my support in that hour of trial.'
"But for inability now to fathom the unpacked boxes of books,
I should like to have given some extracts shewing still more strongly
her feelings on the approach of death, and how entirely she merged
all feeling of self-reliance on her Saviour, and how completely she
renounced all goodness and righteousness but His, in whom was all
her hope."
After the death of Mrs. Simcoe, the daughters continued to
reside there for a few months, after which Eliza, Caroline, Sophia
and Katherine took up their residence at Bath. Charlotte went to
Leamington and Anne remained at Wolford.
The Kev. Henry Addington Simcoe, the only surviving son of
General Simcoe, inherited Wolford, but never lived there. He let
it from 1851-66.
The Eev. Henry Addington Simcoe died in November, 1868;
and as his eldest son, Henry Walcot, died in 1848, Captain John K.
Simcoe, his second son, in-
herited Wolford. He died in
1891, without issue. His
widow, who resides to-day at
Wolford, is the only one of,
the name related to this
family, living.
In 1867, when Captain
John Kennaway Simcoe,
E.N., the second son of the
CAPT. J. K. SIMCOE. Eev ' J*eniy Addington Sim-*
coe of Penheale, married Miss
Mary Jackson, second daughter of Colonel Basil Jackson, of Glew-
stone Court, Herefordshire, and an officer of the late Eoyal Staff
Corps, Wolford once more -had a Simcoe as the master of its house-
hold, for after his marriage Captain Simcoe rented the estate from
his father for one year. At the time of his marriage, Captain Sim-
coe retired from the Navy and settled down as a country gentleman,
generous in his hospitality, with a large circle of friends. Misst
368
ESTATE OF MES. J. K. SIMCOE
Eliza Simcoe had previously left 30,000 for the upkeep of Wolford.
The estate on the death of Mrs. Simcoe, widow of Captain John
K. Simcoe, parses into the possession of Mr. Arthur Linton, who is
descended from the Rev. H. A. Simcoe's eldest daughter, Anne Eliza,
who married Sedley Bastard Marke, of Woodhill. Their daughter,
Olive Ann, married Rev. George Linton, Vicar of Corsham in Wilt-
shire. Their eldest son, Arthur Henry Linton, is heir of the late
Captain John Kennaway Simcoe, and will succeed to the estate. A
condition of the inheritance is that he has to take the name and arms
of Simcoe.
24 369
CHAPTER XXIV.
LOVING WORDS FROM THE PULPIT.
Sunday, the twenty-seventh of January, one thousand eight hun-
dred and fifty, was a day that was never forgotten during the life-
time of the children of Mrs. Simcoe and of the parishioners who made
up the congregation in the parish church of Dunkeswell, when loving
testimony was paid to the life and works of her who had so recently
passed away. Every family in the parish was represented, in fact
DUNKESWELL PARISH CHURCH BEFORE RESTORATION.
(From a Drawing by Afrs. Simcoe.)
every parishioner was present. It was on the occasion when the
Rev. John Blackmore, A.M., the rector of Culmstock in Devon, an
old and esteemed friend of the family, preached a sermon entitled "The
Christian in Life and Death," on the death of Mrs. Simcoe. It was an
appreciation well deserved and most acceptable to so many not only
to those in her family circle but to the people of the parish, who
were devoted in their esteem for the late Lady of the Manor.
The sermon was (subsequently) privately printed at the Penheale
Press, Launceston, by Mrs. Simcoe's only surviving son, the Rev.
Henry Addington Simcoe.
370
AN APPROPRIATE TEXT
The text was:
"Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord from henceforth; yea,
saith the Spirit, that they may rest from their labours; and their works
do follow them." Rev. xiv., 13.
The preacher said:
" I feel, and doubtless you will feel with me, that the occasion of my
standing in this holy place to-day is one of a deeply solemn and affect-
ing character, the death the departure rather of a friend esteemed,
revered, beloved most justly esteemed, most justly revered, most justly
beloved by us all. Well indeed may we mourn the loss of such a^ friend.
But it is our privilege, through the grace and mercy of God, 'not to
mourn as those without hope'; oh, no; we think of the departed, we look
back at the piety of her life, and see the humble Christian living ' m the
Lord'- we look at the peacefulness of her death, and see the trusting
INTERIOR DUXKESWELL PARISH CHURCH BEFORE RESTORATION".
(From a Drairiny by Mita Harriet Simeoe.)
Christian dying 'in the Lord'; and we look at the volume of God's
unerring Word, and we hear 'a voice from heaven' proclaiming, 'Blessed
are the dead which die in the Lord.' ' Blessed are the dead which die
in the Lord!' Oh, brethren, it is at such seasons as this that the heart
feels the unspeakable preciousness of such a message from heaven.
When the thoughts have been dwelling with some departed one in the
sufferings of sickness, the solitude of the coffin, the silence of the grave,
with what a sweetness and power of consolation does this ' voice of the
Spirit ' break upon the soul. ' Blessed are the dead which die in the
Lord; even so, saith the Spirit, that they may rest from their labours'
their labours in the Christian warfare, their labours of faith and love
' and their works do follow them ' widening the reality of their faith
371
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
and the sincerity of their love. Here is comfort, instruction, encour-
agement for us all; comfort respecting the dear friend whom we lament,
in the assurance that 'our loss is her eternal gain,' that from sojourning
with us in the flesh she has passed to a blessedness such as mortal ' eye
hath not seen, nor ear heard, nor heart conceived '; instruction and encour-
agement respecting ourselves still left for awhile pilgrims in this earthly
wilderness, instruction as showing how we may attain the same heavenly
blessedness, and encouragement in the certainty that we shall attain it
if we seek it rightly ' in the Lord.'
" And may the power of the Spirit apply this Word of the Spirit
effectually to each of us for comfort, instruction and encouragement!
May the Almighty Spirit be to each of us, as He was to our 'blessed'
friend, a Spirit of light and life and holiness and, peace! 'Awake, awake,
and arm of the Lord, put on' put forth 'thy strength'; if there be souls
here spiritually ' dead in trespasses and sins,' by Thy life-giving energy
' raise them from the death of sin to the life of righteousness,' and those
whom Thou hast thus raised vouchsafe to strengthen, establish, sanctify
more and more; and grant that we may all know, in our own eternal
experience, how 'blessed are the dead which die in the Lord.'
'"In the Lord.' How much is implied in these three words! baptism
and the great change, and the living faith, and the mighty blessings signi-
fied and sealed by Christian baptism. We find the expression used in the
New Testament Scriptures to denote the Christian's union with Christ as
signified and sealed by baptism. Thus Christians are spoken of as ' bap-
tized into Christ,' the word ' into ' denoting their entering and being
admitted into that state, being used in connection with baptism, and
Christians so baptized are spoken of afterwards as being ' in Christ,' ' in
the Lord.' But the expression implies also the reality through the
inworking power of the Holy Ghost the reality of that ' death unto sin
and new birth unto righteousness' of which the baptismal rite is the
figure, the reality of that cleansing by the blood and Spirit of Christ, of
which the application of the water is the sign; the reality of that faith
in Christ, as the Son of God, the Prophet, Priest and King of His people,
of which baptism is the profession, the real acting out of that living
faith in Christ through which the believer cleaveth to Christ and followeth
Christ 'in newness of life,' according to His Word; that faith through
which ' the inner man,' receiving ' nourishment ' from Christ, bringeth
forth 'the fruits of the Spirit' of Christ, even as the branch in the vine,
receiving living sap from the vine, produces the fruits of the vine. Thus
was our departed friend ' in the Lord,' baptized with water, and with
the Holy Spirit, having not only the sign, but also ' the thing signified,'
showing not only the possession, but also the possession and the power of
true faith. And thus, living ' in the Lord,' she died ' in the Lord,' and ' in
the Lord ' she ' liveth for evermore.'
" In thus speaking of the departed I speak not to her praise, but to
the praise of that 'grace of God' by which she was what she was; praise
while living she would have disclaimed and deprecated; praise when
dead she needeth not; in the sight of God and in the memory of man
' her works do follow her.' And oh, how utterly less than nothing must
be all praise or dispraise from man when the blessed spirit has heard
from the adorable Redeemer, the everlasting Judge, ' Well done, good and
faithful servant, enter thou into the joy of thy Lord.'
"But I would direct your attention to a few particulars respecting
her, the consideration of which may tend, with God's blessing, to promote
an object which lay near her heart while she lived, and which, if the
spirits above can take any interest in things below, she would now desire
most especially to have promoted, namely, the welfare the spiritual and
eternal welfare of her fellow-creatures. And for this purpose 1 shall
speak not of her powers of mind, or soundness of judgment, or decision
372
CHARACTER OF MRS. SIMCOE
of character (natural endowments given perhaps in the same measure
but to few), but rather of those 'fruits of the Spirit' to which, through
the same Divine Spirit, all Christians should aspire, and in seeking,
cherishing and manifesting which we are all called to ' follow her good
example.' The subject indeed is large, important, holy and glorious;
and I feel myself utterly unequal to it, unable to do anything like justice
to it; but I would desire to look humbly to Him whose ' strength is made
perfect in the weakness of man,' and who alone can work in any of us
that ' power of godliness ' which we are privileged to contemplate in
remembering our honoured friend.
"You know that the grand leading feature in her character was
religion true, practical godliness. In the ordering of her affairs, the
management of her household, the employment of her means, the habits
of her daily life, might be seen the guiding, governing influence of
religion; there was evidently a higher principle and a nobler object than
merely temporal things could supply, evidently a looking to something
beyond the applause of man, the gratification of sense, the possessions of
earth; a looking to things spiritual, invisible, eternal; a regard for the
will, the favour, approval and glory of God in Christ Jesus, flowing forth
in works of piety towards God, and of benevolence and beneficence to
men, ' adorning the doctrine of the Saviour,' and the church of which
she was a faithful member. I believe that the finest type, the highest
exemplification, of the Christian character is to be found in the true,
sound, consistent member of the Protestant Church of England, and such
was our revered friend, a true Church of England woman and, as such, a
true Christian in principle and in practice, in faith and in works. Her
works, her practice, you all know, approve, admire; trace them to their
sources, the principles from which they sprung; and let us remember, it
is only as we have the same principles that we can have the like char-
acter on earth, the like blessedness in heaven. These principles, then,
in her case were those religious principles which are called evangelical.
On this point we have her own testimony. I am privileged to hold here
a statement, written by herself more than thirty years ago, by which
' tho' dead she yet speaketh ' for our instruction and profit; and a most
valuable testimony it is, not only to the fundamental importance of those
scriptural truths which the world so often despises, but also to the sound-
ness of her own faith and the unquestionable certainty of her present and
eternal blessedness. Hear her words: 'Now while my senses are perfect,
I will declare that I trust and expect to die in those evangelical prin-
ciples which form the happiness of my life, and I trust and hope will do
of my death.' Observe this remarkable declaration made, as from a
special regard to God's glory, ' while her senses ' all her powers of mind
and judgment 'were perfect'; intellectual faculties there were of a high
order, the tastes of an elegant, cultivated and accomplished mind, ample
means for their gratification, the possession of earthly affluence, the
enjoyment of domestic life, the affection of dutiful children, the attach-
ment of numerous friends, the respect and esteem of all the neighbour-
hood, the consciousness of a life spent in the paths of honour, virtue,
integrity and usefulness; yet none of these things are spoken of as
especially constituting her happiness, but those religious principles which
are called evangelical. Nor are we left in doubt as to what she meant
by 'evangelical principles'; her own statement is in substance this: 'By
evangelical principles I mean a humiliating estimate of our moral con-
dition as radically corrupt, and of ourselves unable even to think a good
thought; a condition also that the death of Christ is an all-sufficient
sacrifice and atonement for our sins, whereby those who believe in Him
are saved from the curse of God's broken law, and have His righteous-
ness imputed to them; and a conviction that by the power of the Holy
Spirit we are alone enabled to feel any good desires, or to do those works
373
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
which are the evidences to ourselves that our calling is sure, and that
we have been blessed by divine grace with a living faith.' These ' evan-
gelical principles,' comprehending (be it remembered) a deep, heartfelt
conviction of three great truths, namely, our utterly corrupt and lost state
by nature, justification through the atoning sacrifice and perfect
righteousness of Christ, and sanctification by the regenerating power of
the Holy Ghost these are the very principles revealed in Holy Scripture,
maintained in the Articles and Homilies of our reformed Church, and
inwrought into the substance of all our Church services. Wherefore?
Doubtless that by God's blessing they might be inwrought in all our
liearts, and become the substantial elements of our character. God grant
they may be so more and more! The following language of our dear
friend, respecting the individual she was then addressing, just expresses
what, I am sure, would have been her desire for us all: 'I earnestly pray
that the power of God may (for no other power can) make you to taste
of these principles.'
" And now observe the effects, the actual manifested influence, of
these principles in our departed friend, whose heart and mind were
impressed with them and made, in her own expressive language, ' to taste
of them.' You know her habitual happy cheerfulness of mind, her happy
freedom from carking care and disquieting anxieties. Mark, then, the
source and support of that happiness. You remember her own words,
that her ' evangelical principles formed the happiness of her life, and
her hope and trust were that they would form the happiness of her
death.' Nor was that a vain hope, that trust was not disappointed; those
divine principles, which dissipated the dark clouds and let in the full,
cheerful sunshine on her pathway of life, shed a bright and beautiful
radiance along 'the dark valley of the shadow of death'; 'the Lord,' her
well-known and beloved ' Shepherd,' who for many a year with unfailing
care had ' fed her in the green pasture and led her forth beside the waters
of comfort,' He was still with her, and gave her to know and feel the
truth of those words which she had often uttered with the lips in this
place, and which we have heard again this morning
' I pass the gloomy vale of death,
From fear and danger free,
For there His aiding rod and staff
Defend and comfort me.'
But observe her testimony further on this point :' Before these principles
were, by the blessing of God, impressed on my mind, I thought of death
with terror, and was never composed in my mind respecting either tem-
poral or eternal concerns.'
" There may possibly be persons here who make light of what are
called ' evangelical principles,' speaking of them perhaps, as I have heard
them spoken of, with a sort of scornful contempt as indicating weakness
of mind. Consider this remarkable testimony. You know something of
the mind which gave it a mind distinguished by superior acuteness,
clearness, strength, solidity, soundness, soberness yet, according to its
own deliberate and unquestionable testimony, 'until these evangelical
principles were, by God's blessing, impressed on it,' that mind was ' never
composed respecting either temporal or eternal concerns, and never
thought of death but with secret feelings of terror.' And that was per-
fectly natural and reasonable; such were reasonably the feelings of the
human heart knowing something of its sinfulness and of the holiness and
justice of the Almighty Judge. And if you think at all seriously of your
sins, and of the infinite holiness and justice of Him who is coming to be
your Judge, such would be your feelings. I am speaking perhaps to some
whose feelings are such; disquieted midst the uncertainties of life,
374
HER FAITH IN THE SAVIOUK
shrinking with secret dread from the prospect of death. The time was
when our 'blessed' friend felt even so; but she found relief, deliverance,
from such tormenting fears, and composure, peace, happiness, were her
portion in life and in death. How? From the power of those religious
principles which are called evangelical. And it is only from the influence
of the same principles that you can find the like deliverance, the like ' rest
for your own soul.'
" We read in the 13th Chapter of the Book of Numbers that among
the Israelites in the wilderness of Paran were exhibited a large, magnifi-
cent cluster of rich grapes, and beautiful pomegranates and figs; but they
did not grow in that wilderness; a Caleb and Joshua had been in the
promised land, and plucked them in the valley of Eschol, and brought
them to stimulate and cheer and encourage their brethren in the wilder-
ness with such earnests of the goodness of that land: so the happiness,
cheerfulness and peace which adorned our dear friend's earthly course
were not of earthly origin; they sprung, not from the natural stock of
mental endowments or moral virtue, but from the spiritual root of evan-
gelical principles; her faith had laid hold on the Saviour, and through
Him had penetrated the land of promise and gathered of the heavenly
fruits, and showed them as beautiful specimens of the richness and blessed-
ness of that inheritance. Wherefore? That we might be stimulated and
cheered and encouraged to ' press toward the prize of our high calling
in Christ,' to seek and cherish a ' like precious faith with her,' that we
also might be ' filled with peace and joy in believing.' Oh, seek that
faith; seek the living power of those 'evangelical principles' of the
blessedness of which we have seen such delightful evidence; seek more
and more, from the teaching of God's Word and Spirit, a humbling con-
viction of your utterly corrupt, lost and helpless state through sin, a
realizing knowledge of the fulness and freeness of salvation ' by grace
through faith in Christ,' and an experimental acquaintance with the
enlightening, renewing, sanctifying power of 'the Spirit of life in Christ
Jesus.'
" If you are a stranger to these things, if your ' mind has not been
impressed,' if your heart has not been made in any measure ' to taste of
these principles,' what hope have you? What peace, what happiness in
prospect of death, judgment and eternity? I may possibly be speaking
to some who know nothing practically of these principles, living just as
they might have lived if Christ had never died for them, having, it may
be, 'the form of godliness, but denying the power thereof; while some
perhaps are altogether careless, thoughtless, indifferent, worldly; and
some perhaps outwardly and openly ungodly oh, as a minister of that
Saviour who hath loved you and given Himself for your redemption, let
me speak a word to you, and may the Holy Spirit enable me to speak 'a
word in season'; may the Spirit carry the word with power to the heart,
to the soul, to the conscience, that there may be an awakening, an alarm,
a conviction of danger, a fleeing to the Saviour, a ' laying hold upon the
hope set before us in Christ.' You know that you have a soul, an immortal
soul, which must either be saved or lost; you know that you must live
forever in the perfection of happiness, or in the perfection of agony; and
doubtless you sometimes think of this when some friend or neighbour
dies, when you see the grave open, or hear the bell tolling for the funeral
of another, then perhaps the thought arises that you also must die, that
your turn will come, that the hour is drawing near how near you cannot
tell when death will lay his hand on you, when your limbs will become
cold, motionless, stiff in death, your heart cease to beat, your breath cease
to be drawn, your ears be closed, your eyes dimmed and darkened in death;
when your body will be wrapped in the shroud, nailed up in the coffin,
buried in the grave, and your soul will have returned to God, the Judge of
all. And then come thoughts of the resurrection day and the final judg-
375
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
ment day, the outbursting of the divine glory in the heavens, the appearing
of the Lord Jesus in the clouds, ' revealed in flaming fire,' and the showing
of the heavenly host and the ' trump of the archangel,' and above all the
mighty voice of the Lord Himself penetrating the depths of earth and
sea; and the opening of the graves, and the rising of the dead the rising
of your body reunited to the soul, and yourself standing before 'the
great white throne,' and ' the books opened,' and ' every secret thing
brought to light," and the eye of the Judge fixed on you, and the sentence
of the Judge pronounced on you, and your eternal portion declared,
assigned, entered on where? With the saved or lost? With the blessed
or the damned? Oh, when such thoughts arise, when such solemn events
are present to your mind, do you not feel that the one thing, the one great
object which above all others most deeply concerns you, is to escape the
damnation of hell, to attain the blessedness of heaven? Shall it be so?
DUNKESWELL PARISH CHURCH AS EESTORED, 1867.
(From
the J. Ross Robertson Collecti
Then, ' by the blessing of God,' must your ' mind be impressed with,' your
heart 'made to taste of,' these great 'evangelical' truths; then, as a
humbled, guilty, penitent sinner must you flee to Christ for refuge, and
find forgiveness and acceptance through His atoning blood and perfect
righteousness, and become ' a new creature ' in Him, renewed, sanctified
by the Spirit of life in Him. So our departed friend fled to Him, sought
Him, was found of Him, and blessed with salvation by Him. And He is
willing to be found of you and to bless you, if only you seek Him and
come to Him with humble, believing, praying, submissive hearts. Hear
His own gracious words (Matt. 11: 28), 'Come unto me, all ye that labour
and are heavy laden, and I will give you rest; take my yoke upon you and
learn of me, and ye shall find rest for your souls.' And again He says
(John 6; 37), 'Him that cometh unto me I will in no wise cast out.' Oh,
be persuaded, be encouraged to come to the Saviour while He thus invites
you, while He yet 'waits to be gracious.' Oh, 'be wise, consider your
376
HER EVANGELICAL PRINCIPLES
latter end, and seek the Lord while He may be found,' that your latter
end may be like hers whose death, you know, was full of peace, and whose
resurrection will be full of glory.
" Let me remind you further that ' those evangelical principles which
formed the happiness of her life ' and ' of her death,' separated our friend
from the vain pursuits, pleasures and amusements of the world. You
know that she walked not in such ways; not because she had naturally
no taste for such things, not because as a Christian she cut herself off
from all pleasure, but because her principles raised her to higher and
greater and better pleasures; her faith laid hold on nobler and loftier
objects, and found delight in them. The toys of childhood delight the
child; but the man, as the apostle expresses it, 'puts away childish
things,' not because he has no pleasures, but because he has other and
higher pleasures; so the toys of the world may delight ' the children of the
world,' but the Christian, realizing in faith the great truths of the Gospel,
leaves such things, because he finds delight in other and heavenly things;
as St. Paul tells us (Rom. 8: 5), ' They that are after the flesh do mind the
things of the flesh, but they that are after the Spirit the things of the
Spirit.' Hear our Christian friend's testimony. Referring to the great
truths of the Gospel, she says: 'If an individual really believed these
things he could not pass so much of his time in the anxieties and dis-
quietudes ' (and doubtless she would have added, the vanities) ' of earthly
things, and spend comparatively so little thought upon the things of
eternity.' In faith her ' thoughts ' dwelt much ' on the things of eternity,'
not with feelings of doubt, disquietude and dread, but with an assured
hope and expectation of a blessed inheritance there through that Saviour
whose love she knew, and whom she loved, and that, be it remembered,
not from any natural superiority or amiableness of disposition, but from
the influence of the divine Spirit. Hear her again: 'Until a right spirit
be implanted in us, which worketh by love, that we should love Him who
died for us, we shall not delight in piety, but perform works of piety
from duty rather than from pleasure; until we feel a love of Christ and
communion with God through Him, what delight can we feel in the expec-
tation of meeting our God?' This is an important and precious passage;
it opens to us the source and substance of her especial pleasure and
delight in ' piety and the works of piety, in communion with God, and in
the expectation of meeting her God'; and that from 'a right spirit im-
planted ' not inborn, observe her language, but ' implanted,' produced
by the power of the Holy Ghost in connection with the ' evangelical '
truths before referred to. Now consider how blessed must have been her
state of mind; and think not. that religion true, evangelical religion
would make you gloomy and melancholy, and cut you off from all enjoy-
ment of pleasure; it would separate you from vain pleasures, but only to
give you other pleasures, better, higher, purer, permanent, substantial,
eternal. Oh, seek to have that right spirit implanted, sustained,
strengthened, more and more in you, that you may ' delight yourself in
the Lord ' and in the ways of the Lord, and when called to ' meet God '
you may ' rejoice and be glad in Him ' as your God and Father in Christ
Jesus.
" Nor were these the only effects of ' evangelical truth ' in that
'blessed' disciple of whom I am now speaking; her faith was that 'which
worketh by love,' and it showed its reality and power in a readiness 'to
every good work.' Her good works need not be spoken of by me in this
place, they are known to you all, felt and remembered by you all; you
know that wherever among yourselves or your neighbours might be suffer-
ing or sorrow, want or woe, there was a kind friend (and, thanks to the
Giver of all good, her mantle descends, her spirit rests on others who
bear her honoured name), a friend whose heart was ever touched with
compassion, whose hand was ever open to help and relieve. Nor were
her labours of love confined to the neighbourhood; by various means,
377
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
through private individuals and public societies, her bounty flowed forth
to our country, our colonies, and to the heathen world, contributing to
lessen the mass of human misery, and to bring Jews and Gentiles to the
knowledge and love and service of her Saviour.
" Time would fail me to speak of the manifold fruits which clustered
richly and beautifully on the faith of this devoted follower of Christ; but
I would just advert to her great humility. Year after year she grew in
grace, in holiness, in the enjoyment of the power and peace of true
religion; and that was accompanied and widened by growing humility, a
sure accompaniment of a real work of grace in the heart; there was not
the ' stand by, for I am holier than thou,' nor ' my tower is so strong
that I shall never be moved,' but a humbling remembrance of her own
continual weakness, arising from an enlightened knowledge of her heart's
deceitfulness and proneness to unbelief. As the divine light showed her
more and more of her God, her Redeemer, and her Sanctifier, it showed
her more and more her own sinfulness in the sight of God, her constant
need of the Saviour's cleansing blood, and of the Holy Spirit's renewing
and upholding power. And so it will be with the true Christian; as he
advances in holiness, he will become more and more sensible of his own
unholiness. You may have observed in a room that where a beam of
sunlight shines with peculiar brightness little particles of dust, before
invisible, are seen floating in the air; the light does not cause them to
be there, but shows that they are where all before seemed pure. So, as
the light of truth and holiness shines more and more brightly in the
heart, evils will be discerned which were not perceived before; and, view-
ing and examining himself in that light, the Christian will be kept lowly
on his knees at the foot of the Cross. So it was with our departed friend.
Hear her words once more: 'Those who most thoroughly examine their
own hearts best know the difficulty and extent of belief ' (the true work-
ing realizing faith in God's word), 'how prone man is to do otherwise'
(otherwise than act out Christian faith in all its various bearings and
applications), 'how deceitful is our heart in this case.' And doubtless the
following language expressed her own experience, for the great enemy
would not have left such a servant of God untried: 'Satan uses every
means to shake our faith in Christ, knowing it to be our only source of
happiness here, and that the stronger our faith is the freer we are from
his yoke and influence.' How true is this! The Christian's spiritual life,
strength, holiness, happiness, depend on his ' faith in Christ.' And she
adds: 'Let our daily prayer be Lord, I believe; help Thou mine un-
belief.' There spake her humility and her faith, looking in prayer to
the Lord as able to help her unbelief and to keep her from falling. And
observe where was her strength, her help, her defence, only ' in the Lord.'
The corruption, deceitfulness, unbelief of her heart .she knew, and who
can tell the manifold struggles and conflicts of her protracted Christian
warfare? But she knew with the Psalmist, 'Unto whom to lift up her
eyes for help,' and with the Psalmist she found that ' the Lord Himself
was her keeper, her helper, her defender.' She found that ' as the hills
stood about Jerusalem, even so standeth the Lord round about His people
for evermore.' But observe how she found this help from the Lord in
the faithful use of appointed means, seeking the blessing of the Lord in
the ordinances of the Lord as they are observed and ministered in our
branch of His Church. For with all her growing in grace and godliness
(and well will it be for us if we grow up, in our measure, towards the
fulness of her stature in Christ!), with all her spiritual growth, this
eminent Christian never grew above the Church of England, as many seem
in the imagination of their minds to suppose respecting themselves; a
spirit of true piety kept her in a state of true humility, manifesting the
feelings expressed by those words of the Psalmist which we have heard
this morning, ' I was glad when they said unto me, let us go into the
house of the Lord.' You know how regularly, constantly, devoutly she
378
HER LOVE OF PEAYEK
used to come here ' into the house of the Lord,' how, when her own
strength failed, she used the help of others' strength to come ' into the
house of the Lord,' the weakness of the body presenting an emblem of
the humility of the soul leaning on the arm of the Lord Jesus, and ' rest-
ing on the arm of that Beloved One coming up more and more from the
wilderness ' of corrupt nature, and drawing nearer and nearer to the
heavenly temple. And oh, that all partook of and manifested the same
spirit of humble dependence on the Lord's help, diligently seeking the
Lord's blessing in the ordinances of the Lord's house! But alas! how
many neglect these things! How many, permitted to enjoy full bodily
strength, pervert that strength to other purposes, and use it not in coming
regularly ' to the house of the Lord,' while others make a measure of
weakness which might be assisted an excuse for staying away from ' the
house and the ordinances of the Lord!' No wonder if in such cases the
soul be left unfed, unstrengthened, to sink, and languish and die. Beware,
that it be not so with any of you; seek food, nourishment, strength for
your souls where our devout friend sought and found it, in the ordinances
of the Lord's house, and that not only from the sermon, but also from and
through the prayeis. The preaching of the word she highly valued, and
so likewise the prayers; as a humble disciple not only, with Mary, 'sitting
at Jesus' feet to hear His word,' but also, with the leper, ' kneeling before
Him to supplicate His mercy, power and blessing, both in the holy sacra-
ment of His Supper, and in the Sunday prayers with the congregation;
and thus her lamp was fed and kept brightly burning with oil from the
sanctuary. The prayers of our Church indeed she specially loved, not
with a blind, bigoted attachment, but with an intelligent, enlightened
regard, knowing them to be sound, scriptural, spiritual, suited to the soul's
wants, and, when rightly used, profitable to the soul's welfare. In the use
of them she found good for her soul, and a great stay to her sinking
spirit midst the increasing infirmities of the flesh; and the testimony of
one who was with her to the last is ' that amidst restlessness and pain and
decay the Church prayers would arrest her attention and be fervently
joined in ' those tried and well-known helps in the daytime of life, still
ministering help at eventide when the night of death came on.
" And now she ' joins in prayer ' no longer, such helps and stays she
needs no more; upheld, sustained unto the end of her course, comforted
with abundant peace, and finally strengthened unto complete and glorious
victory, her happy spirit hath escaped from ' the burden of the flesh '
this prison-house of clay, gladly escaped ' like a bird from the fowler.'
The fetters are all broken, and the emancipated spirit has taken its flight
up to realms of bliss and blessedness beyond the reach of our present
faculties, whither we can now only follow her in thought, in faith, in
thanksgiving and praise. Human imagination cannot fully conceive,
human tongue cannot describe, the blessedness ' of the spirits of the just
made perfect ' to attempt doing so would be only to mar its glory and
dim its splendour. Even the language of inspiration, with all its mag-
nificent grandeur and sublimity, fails us here; even the beloved John,
'who lay in Jesus' bosom,' says, 'we know not what we shall be'; even
the favoured Paul, who was ' caught up to the third heaven,' tells us that
the words which he heard in paradise were ' unutterable words,' the very
expresssion of the joys of the blessed spirits surpassing the power of
human utterance! Yet it is good to think of that blessedness, though we
are lost in utter inability to comprehend it; it is good in believing thought
to muse upon it, to have the mind raised to the contemplation of it;
good to know and remember that blessedness unspeakable, unalloyed, un-
interrupted, unfailing, unending, eternal, only to be increased and per-
fected at the resurrection in the union of the glorified body with the
glorified soul blessed with the entire fulness of blessedness in the presence
of God for evermore; such is the blessedness in which our faith can con-
379
DIARY OF MES. SIMCOE
template, and rejoice to contemplate, our esteemed, revered, beloved and
blessed friend! All, be it remembered, through Christ, the Saviour of
sinners; all from the love, the free and undeserved love, of God in Christ
Jesus. That love it was which, in its eternal counsels, gave the everlast-
ing Son for this 'blessed' one's redemption; that love sought her in her
natural state of alienation, awakened her to a sense of her sinfulness,
led her to the knowledge of the Saviour, and enabled her in faith to lay
hold on the hope set before her in Christ, and to find pardon and peace
through His blood and righteousness, and strength and holiness in the
spirit of life in Him; that love watched over her, guided, defended, sus-
tained, upheld, comforted her in all her weakness, wants, difficulties,
dangers, trials, tribulations, sufferings and sorrows; it 'led her all her
journey through, safe to her journey's end,' and when she reached ' the
verge of Jordan,' that love was there, like the ark with the Israelites of
old, and its everlasting arms clave asunder the dark waters and bore her
spirit through triumphant to join the company of the blessed gone before.
"And who will follow? who will follow? Oh, may I, may you, follow
her as she followed the Saviour, follow her in ' faith and patience ' here to
'the inheritance of the promises' hereafter; may we receive the truth in
the love and the power of the truth as she received it, and live the truth
in the humble and faithful practice of the truth as she lived ' in the Lord.'
Oh, come, let us follow, in Christ, ' the way' towards the heavenly Canaan;
if you have not yet entered on the heavenward path, oh, enter now; away
with your carelessness, your worldliness, your ungodliness; whatever it
be that is keeping you from the Saviour, cast it from you, and in humble
penitence and prayer and faith come to Christ, and set your face heaven-
ward, and follow on to know and serve the Lord; and if you have
through grace entered on that ' narrow ' but blessed way, press forward,
be stimulated, cheered, encouraged to press forward with renewed vigour
and watchfulness and hope; the 'blessed' friend who has gone before
beckons and calls you on, she points to the love and power that were
all-sufficient for her, as all-sufficient for you. Oh, brethren, come; the
same divine, unfailing love invites, awaits, encourages us; the love of the
Father bids us come, the love of the Saviour will receive us, the love of
the Sanctifier, ' the Holy Ghost the Comforter,' will help us. Oh, then
come; in faith and prayer and humble submission flee to this redeeming
love, cleave to it, trust to it, follow its heavenward guidance, depend on
its unfailing promises, and though difficulties and dangers, and tribula-
tions and trials, and enemies from within and without stand in the way,
'who shall separate us from the love of Christ?' Oh, if we have any-
thing of the apostle's faith, as our departed friend had, we may take up
the apostle's triumphant language and say, ' I am persuaded that neither
death, nor life, nor angels, nor principalities, nor powers, nor things
present, nor things to come, nor height nor depth, nor any other creature,
shall be able to separate us from the love of God which is in Christ Jesus
our Lord.' And to Him, with our lips now and in our lives day by day,
in our words and works, our faith and practice, let us humbly ascribe
all honour and praise and power and glory for ever and ever."
380
CHAPTER XXV.
THE WILL OF MRS. SIMCOE.
Mrs. Simcoe's will was proved on the 19th of March, 1850. It
was originally made in 1840, and her son, the Rev. H. A. Simcoe, and
the Rev. John Clarke were appointed executors.
The first codicil is dated the 30th of March, 1841, and makes a
new disposition of the land at Dunkeswell Abbey, in the parish of
Dunkeswell.
The second codicil is dated the 9th of October, 1843, anu adds the
name of the late Honourable Sir J. T. Coleridge, afterwards Lord
Coleridge, as an executor in conjunction with her son, Rev. H. A.
Simcoe, and Rev. John Clarke.
The third codicil is dated the ?th of January, 1848, two years
before her death. The Rev. John Clarke having died, she appointed
Francis George Coleridge, son of Sir J. T. Coleridge, to act in con-
junction with the Rev. H. A. Simcoe and Sir J. T. Coleridge as
executors.
The copy of the will is extracted from the Principal Registry of
the Probate, Divorce and Admiralty Division of the High Court of
Justice in the Prerogative Court of Canterbury.
I, ELIZABETH POSTHUMA SIMCOE of Wolford Lodge in the
county of Devon widow do make publish and declare this to be my last
will and testament in writing in manner and form following that is
to say in conformity to the wish of my late deceased husband John
Graves Simcoe expressed in his will and pursuant to and in exercise
and execution of the several powers and authorities to me given or in
me vested either under all or any of the several Indentures of Settlement
executed by us or by my late aunt Margaret Graves widow or under
any other deed settlement will or writing whatsoever or me in any other
manner thereto in anywise enabling I do by this my last will and
testament in writing by me executed in the presence of and attested
by the credible persons whose names are hereto subscribed as witnesses
attesting my execution hereof give devise bequeath direct limit appoint
and dispose of all and every sum and sums of money in whomsoever
vested and whether invested or standing in any of the public stocks or
funds or on mortgage or any other securities or whether arising or
produced by or from the sale of any tenement lands or hereditaments in
such settlement deed will or writing comprised or by any other means
whereof I have any power of disposal unto and amongst my several
daughters by my said husband in manner and in the parts and proportions
following that is to say unto my daughters Eliza Charlotte Henrietta
Maria Caroline and Sophia Jemima so much of the said trust monies
381
DIAKY OF MBS. SIMCOE
respectively as will amount unto and raise the sum of five thousand
pounds for each of them and to my two youngest daughters Katherine
and Ann (the latter of whom was born after the date and execution
of my said husband's Will) so much of the said trust monies respec-
tively as will amount unto and raise the sum of six thousand pounds for
each of them and which said last mentioned sums I do appoint to them
my said two youngest daughters Katherine and Ann to the intent that
all my said daughters may be provided for in equal degree they my said
daughters Eliza Charlotte Henrietta Maria Caroline Sophia Jemima
having received legacies under the will of my late Aunt Margaret
Graves widow and being entitled to other legacies payable at my death
from my late Aunt Sophia Gwillim out of my Herefordshire property
but inasmuch as under my said husband's will the power hereinafter
mentioned of charging the estate with the payment of any provision
for any of my said daughters may be limited and restrained to the sum
of five thousand pounds for any one of them I do by this my said will
direct limit and appoint that my executors hereinafter named shall raise
and levy two several sums of one thousand pounds each in part of and
to make up the said sums of six thousand pounds for each of my said
youngest daughters by and out of the monies which at my death shall
be invested in the funds or on mortgage either in my name or in the
names of the trustees named in the said Indentures of Settlement and
shall pay and apply the same in discharge of so much of the said two
sums of six thousand pounds and I do by this my said will further
direct order limit and appoint that the several trustees in whose names
such several trust monies are or may be vested shall call in such parts
thereof as are in the public funds or are on mortgage and apply the
same agreeably to the intent of this my will in and towards discharge
of the legacies hereby by me given and in case such monies so in the
public funds or on mortgage or other security may not be adequate to
the making up of the whole of the said legacies and provision for my
said several daughters I do by this my said will executed and attested
as aforesaid pursuant to and in exercise of the power and authority
given for that purpose to me in and by the will of my said late husband
and of all and every other power and powers me hereunto in any wise
enabling subject and charge the residuary real estate by his said will
given and devised to and with the payment to my said several daughters
of such proportion of the respective sums of money hereby given or
appointed to them as such trust money shall fall short or be deficient
to make up for the portions or fortunes of my several daughters as
aforesaid and I do by this my said will appoint and charge that such
deficiency shall be made good to my said daughters respectively out
of such residuary real estate I give to my said daughter Eliza my prints
pictures plate books china linen wine horses cows carts carriages house-
hold goods and other furniture bank notes cash in Biddulph's Bank and
lastly in pursuance and in execution and exercise of all and every power
and powers either under my said husband's will or under or by virtue
of any settlement or settlements or in any other manner whatsoever
vested in me I do by this my said will by me executed and attested
as aforesaid give devise bequeath direct order limit appoint and dispose
of all and singular my mesuages tenements farms buildings closes lands
hereditaments and all the rest residue and remainder of my real and
personal estate monies securities for money goods and effects what-
soever wheresoever not hereinbefore given and bequeathed and of which
I have any power of disposal subject to my debts and funeral expenses
382
HER ESTATE IN DUNKESWELL
and also subject to and charged and chargeable with the payment of
the said several portions or fortunes to my said several daughters herein-
before given appointed or provided for them or intended so to be or
such part or parts thereof as the trust monies hereinbefore mentioned
shall fall short of paying and which I will and direct shall in every event
be fully paid and satisfied and also all and every sum and sums of
money trust estate and effects whatsoever in and by the said Indentures
of Settlement or either of them or by my said husband's Will or in any
other manner settled and not by me disposed of as aforesaid unto the
use of my son Henry Addington Simcoe his heirs executors administrators
and assigns to and for his and their own absolute use and benefit and
I do hereby make constitute and appoint my son the said Henry Addington
Simcoe and the Revd John Clarke to be joint EXECUTORS of this my
last will and testament hereby revoking all former and other wills by
me heretofore made and ratifying and confirming this to be my last.
IN WITNESS whereof 1 the said Elizabeth Posthuma Simcoe the testa-
trix have to this my last will and testament set my hand and seal this
eleventh day of September in the year of our Lord one thousand eight
hundred and forty ELIZABETH POSTHUMA SIMCOE (L S) -
SIGNED and declared to be the last will and testament of the within
named Elizabeth Posthuma Simcoe in her presence and at her request
and in the presence of each other have subscribed our names witness
thereto - - JAMES TEMPLE MANSEL Clerk Curate of Dunkeswell
in the county of Devon JOHN BURKE Clerk Vicar of Kilalgan Co
Galway Ireland.
I, ELIZABETH POSTHUMA SIMCOE do hereby publish and declare
this a CODICIL to my last will and testament dated the eleventh day
of September 1840 hereto annexed I give devise and bequeath all my
lands and estate whether freehold, or leasehold situated at Dunkeswell
Abbey in the parish of Dunkeswell unto my daughters Eliza Simcoe and
Caroline Simcoe their heirs executors administrators and assigns as
joint tenants. And I do hereby revoke all and every devise and disposi-
tion of my said lands and estate contained in my said will IN WITNESS
whereof I have hereunto set my hand and seal this thirtieth day of
March in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and forty-one
- E P SIMCOE (L S) - - SIGNED published and declared by the
said Elizabeth Posthuma Simcoe to be a codicil to her last will and
testament in our presence who in her presence and in the presence of
each other have subscribed our names as witnsses thereto - - PHILIP
KRULES - - JOSEPH BURROWS.
THIS IS A SECOND CODICIL to the last will and testament of
me ELIZABETH POSTHUMA SIMCOE of Wolford Lodge in the county
of Devon widow which will bears date the eleventh day of September in
the year one thousand eight hundred and forty. Whereas I am desirous
of naming the Honourable Sir John Taylor Coleridge Knight one of the
Justices of Her Majesty's Court of Queen's Bench an EXECUTOR of my
said will to act in the execution thereof in conjunction with my son
Henry Addington Simcoe and the Reverend John Clarke the executors
therein named I do therefore hereby appoint the said Sir John Taylor
Coleridge one of the EXECUTORS of my said will and I direct that my
said will shall be read and construed as if the name of the said Sir John
Taylor Coleridge had been originally inserted therein together with the
names of the said Henry Addington Simcoe and John Clarke and I
confirm my said will and the codicil thereunto annexed except as afore-
said IN WITNESS whereof I have hereunto set my hand this ninth
383
DIAKY OF MRS. SIMCOE
day of October one thousand eight hundred and forty three E P
SIMCOE SIGNED by the said Elizabeth Posthuma Simcoe as and for
a codicil to her last will and testament in the presence of us present at
the same time who in her presence and at her request have hereunto
subscribed our names as witnesses J D COLERIDGE Exeter College
Oxford FRAS GEO COLERIDGE Ottery >St Mary Solr
THIS IS A THIRD CODICIL to the last will and testament of
me ELIZABETH POSTHUMA SIMCOE of Wolford Lodge in the county
of Devon widow which will bears date the eleventh day of September
in the year one thousand eight hundred and forty Whereas the Reverend
John Clarke one of the executors named in my said will hath lately
departed this life I am desirous of appointing Francis George Coleridge
of Ottery (Saint Mary in the county of Devon Gentleman an EXECUTOR
of my said will to act in the execution of the trusts thereof in conjunction
with my son Henry Addington Simcoe and the Honourable Sir John
Taylor Coleridge respectively named as executors of my said will in and
by my said will and one of the codicils thereto I do therefore by this
third codicil to my said will appoint the said Francis George Coleridge
one of my EXECUTORS and direct that my said will and codicils shall
be read and construed as if the name of the said Francis George Coleridge
had been originally inserted therein together with the executors therein
named In all other respects I ratify and confirm my said will and the
several codicils thereto IN WITNESS whereof I have hereunto set my
hand this seventh day of January one thousand eight hundred and forty-
eight E P SIMCOE : SIGNED by the said Elizabeth Posthuma
Simcoe as and for a codicil to her last will and testament in the presence
of us present at the same time who in her presence and at her request
have hereunto subscribed our names as witnesses CHARLES E BAND
JOSEPH BURROWS
Proved (with three Codicils)
19th March 1850
Fos 24
J J C
239
In order that the will of Mrs. Simcoe may be intelligible to the
reader, the following synopsis has been made.
Testatrix in conformity to the wish of her husband, the late
John Graves Simcoe, expressed in his will and pursuant to certain
settlements executed by the testatrix and her husband or by her late
aunt, Margaret Graves, or under any other deed, settlement, will or
writing, devises and bequeathes : " All and every sum and sums of
money in whomsoever vested and whether invested or standing in
any of the public stocks or funds or on mortgage or any other securi-
ties or whether arising or produced by or from the sale of any tene-
ment, land or hereditaments in such settlement, deed, will or writing
comprised or by any other means whereof I have any power of dis-
posal to the following daughters:
384
A SYNOPSIS OF THE WILL
Eliza
Charlotte So much of said trust
Henrietta Maria moneys as will amo'unt to
Caroline
and raise 5,000 for each.
Sophia Jemima
to the two youngest daughters:
Katherine. ]
Ann (the latter born after I So much f the
date and execution of will mo ^ s ^^ T un V
of John Graves Simcoe). J and raise 6,000 for each.
The testatrix explains her reason for giving the additional 1,000
to her two youngest daughters is by reason of the fact that the six
eldest daughters have received legacies under the will of the testatrix's
late aunt, Margaret Graves, and will also be entitled to other legacies
payable at the death of the testatrix from her late aunt, Sophia
Gwillim, out of the testatrix's Herefordshire property.
Under the will of John Graves Simcoe it is provided that Mrs.
Simcoe was only to charge the residuary real estate of her husband
with payment to her children of such sums as she might think
proper; no sum exceeding 5,000 shall be payable to any one child.
The testatrix directs her executors to raise the two several sums
of 1,000 required to make up the said sums of 6,000 for each of the
said two youngest daughters out of moneys which at the death of
the testatrix shall be invested in funds or on mortgage either in her
name or in the names of trustees named "in the said indenture
of settlement."
In case such moneys in public funds or on mortgage or other
security are not adequate to make up the whole of the said legacies
the testatrix charges her residuary real estate with the payment to
her several daughters of such proportion of the respective sums given
to them as shall fall short or be deficient to make up the full amount
of the legacies bequeathed to her several daughters.
The testatrix further directs that such deficiency shall be made
good to her daughters respectively out of her residuary real estate.
The testatrix gives to her daughter Eliza the following: "My
prints, pictures, plate, books, china, linen, wine, horses, cows, carts,
carriages, household goods and other furniture, bank notes, cash in
Biddulph's Bank."
The testatrix bequeathes all and singular her messuages, tene-
ments, farms, buildings, close?, hereditaments and all the rest and
residue of her real and personal estate, subject to the payment of her
debts and funeral expenses and subject to the payment of the legacies
to her several daughters above mentioned, unto her son, Henry
Addington Simcoe.
25 385
DIARY OF MES. SIMCOE
The testatrix appoints her son, Henry Addington Simcoe, and the
Rev. John Clarke joint executors of her will.
By her first codicil the testatrix devises and bequeathes all her
lands and real estate, whether freehold or leasehold, of Dunkeswell
Abbey in the Parish of Dunkeswell to her daughters Eliza Simcoe
and Caroline Simcoe as joint tenants.
By a second codicil the testatrix appoints Sir John Taylor Cole-
ridge, one of the Justices of her Majesty's Court of Queen's Bench,
executor in conjunction with her son, Henry Addington Simcoe,
and Rev. John Clarke.
By a third codicil the testatrix appoints Francis George Cole-
ridge of Ottery St. Mary in the County of Devon to be one of
her executors to take the place of Reverend John Clarke, who has
departed this life, and to act in conjunction with her son, Henry
Addington Simcoe and Sir John Taylor Coleridge.
Mr.- Walcot, a cousin of Mrs. Simcoe's, died in 1830. He resided
in Oundle, Northamptonshire. At his death he bequeathed to Eliza,
Charlotte, Henrietta, Caroline, Sophia, Katherine and Ann Simcoe
2,000 each and to Mrs. Simcoe 100 and all his lands and houses in
the counties of Norfolk, Huntingdon and Northampton. These
"lands and houses" to be sold and divided "share and share" alike
to the seven daughters of John Graves Simcoe. Mr. Walcot left
his estate of Tichmarsh in Northampton to the Rev. Henry Addington
Simcoe, the only surviving son of General Simcoe.
386
CHAPTER XXVI.
GENERAL SIMCOE'S ESTATE IN CANADA.
There was no large accumulation of wealth in the Simcoe family.
The ancestors of the General were not men endowed with much more
than respectable competences. They were plain living, godly people,
content with their lot, doing their duty in their respective spheres
of life as Christian men and women.
None of the Simcoes in Cheshire had estates, although some few
of them were small land-holders. Those who lived in Northumberland
and Durham were better off, for as rectors and vicars they were in
the possession of "livings" that placed them in comfortable circum-
stances.
Captain John Simcoe, the eon of a Northumberland vicar, had,
through the thrift and saving of some of his ancestors, inherited
enough money to enable him to wed; and this, with some thousands
that his wife was endowed with and his naval pay, kept his home
in Cotterstock in comparative comfort.
So that after the death of Captain Simcoe his widow was in
circumstances that permitted her to leave Cotterstock and take up
house in Exeter, bring up and educate her two surviving sons,
Percy, who was unfortunately drowned at the age of fourteen, and
John Graves, the future Governor of Upper Canada.
There is no trace of the disposition of the estate of Mrs. John
Simcoe. Certain it is that it all came to General Simcoe, so that
when he started life he had a few thousand pounds to his credit
and the advantage of a good education.
During the American campaign he drew liberally upon his own
funds and was thus enabled to secure many necessaries essential to
his comfort which would have been denied him had he to depend
upon his army pay.
His personal expenditure while in command of the Queen's
Rangers was considerable, for he not only outfitted his men but, as
the announcement in Rivington's N. Y. Gazette shows, he paid a
premium for every recruit obtained in New York.
Of course, after his marriage in 1782, he was in better circum-
stances. His wife was an heiress in her own right, inheriting the
wealth of the Gwillims, and it was her money that purchased Wolford
in Devon.
The welfare of the estate was an afribition with Mrs. Simcoe
and large sums were disbursed by her in improvements. The dwelling
was practically rebuilt, in fact what was left of the original build-
ing, built by Peter Geneste, is now in the centre of the ground
floor of the present mansion.
387
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
Many thousands of pounds were expended by Mrs. Simcoe on the
estate between the years 1782 and 1806; and the General also con-
tributed a goodly share towards its upkeep.
But there were many personal calls upon the General's income.
In connection with the military commands in the Western District
his private purse was liberally drawn upon.
The Simcoe correspondence shows that he was anxious that his
family should be provided for after his death. The urgent appeals
he made to the Government of the day to grant him what was his
due and his continued reference to this matter in his personal cor-
respondence, justify the belief that he should have been recouped large
amounts expended by him which could fairly be charged to Govern-
ment account.
When he accepted the post of Lieutenant-Governor of Upper
Canada he had no idea that his private purse would have to be drawn
upon to enable him to keep up his position in Canada as was befitting
the representative of his sovereign.
True, the income as Lieutenant-Governor was 2,000 per annum,
with 'half fees on sales of lands and from the privilege and application
of the Great Seal to divers private and public instruments, but while
he received his pay and part of the fees, there was a large arrearage
at the time of his death.
When Simcoe left the Province all of his accounts were not
adjusted and he had to leave the collection of the arrearage to his
agent, Captain John McGill, who was the Commissary of Stores in his
government.
The General had also 4,77,0 acres of land in the Township of
Yonge, the Johnstown District, and in other parts of the Province,
including the Castle Frank property of 200 acres adjoining York.
This latter property was registered in the name of his son Francis
Gwillim Simcoe, who in April of 1812 fell at the siege of Badajoz.
At intervals he received remittances on account and down to
1802 it amounted to 1,760. John McGill in writing to the General
said in reference to a payment of 873 made before 1800, he was
instructed by Mr. Peter Russell to say that "it was not his
fault that the sum was not more and that if the Attorney-General
(Mr. White) had done his duty the sum for grants ought to have
been from 1,000 to 2,000 annually, but why he was not made do
his duty remains a mystery."
A subsequent return made as late as March, 1806, shows that
an amount of 255 was paid to the General, making in all 2,015.
Mrs. Simcoe made repeated efforts to collect the arrearage, but
records show that she did not receive many further payments. The
lands owned by General Simcoe were sold in later years before Mrs.
Simcoe's death and the amount received was duly transmitted to her.
It is understood that this land brought about $2 an acre.
388
ABOUT YORK NINETY YEARS AGO
Mrs. Simcoe was always interested in hearing of the progress of
York, for she had many friends residing there, the friends of her
younger days in 1792-6, when she lived at Niagara and York.
In a letter dated April 1, 1819, Mr. McGill writes of York:
"This place has increased greatly, both as to buildings and population
since the war. You will hardly believe when I state that two acres
and two-thirds (22-3), divided into fourteen house lots, was sold at
auction a few days ago for eighteen hundred and fifty-five pounds,
currency (Dollar, five shillings)."
This was a great surprise, no doubt, to Mrs. Simcoe and is a
greater surprise to the people of Toronto at the present time. There
is no proof of the location of these lots, but they are said to have been
near the corner of King and Yonge streets. If so, the market price
to-day would be about $2,500,000 ; for land in that vicinity in 1910,
one hundred feet in depth, sold for nearly $10,000 per foot frontage.
Mr. Samuel Smith, who was the Administrator of the Government
in Upper Canada in 1817 and in 1820, writes to Mrs. Simcoe on Oc-
tober 29, 1824, stating that : "The Town of York is increasing fast,
the principal street (King) is about a mile long and the houses for
most of the way tolerably compact. The roads likewise are getting
good so that stages, four-wheel carriages, go from Kingston to Mon-
treal and occasionally from York to Niagara. There are several
steamboats on the lake that ply in different directions, which makes
travelling by water very expeditious," and Mr. Smith adds: "The
Falls of Niagara has bec.ome a fashionable resort, as many as some
hundreds of people are seen there at a time in the summer season."
Mrs. Simcoe kept up her correspondence with Canadian friends
until within a short period of her death. For the late Rev. Dr.
Henry Scadding she had a profound regard ; his father had been the
manager of Wolford and settled in Upper Canada during her hus-
band's term as Lieutenant-Governor.
389
CHAPTER XX VI I.
JOHN BAILEY'S MEMOIRS.
Seldom, very seldom, do we have narratives written under the
conditions in which John Bailey wrote these memoirs. As a rule
servants and retainers, whether employed in the upper or lower duties
of household work either within or without the walls of the family
home, prefer to perform their allotted duties faithfully, without .
indulging in any ambitions of a literary character. So that with the
manifold duties that make up the daily routine of a household work
it is a pleasant surprise to find a narrative from the pen of a man
whose opportunities for education were probably limited to the mas-
tering of the crude training presented by a primitive parish school in
a Devon village.
The writing may not be of a character or interest that would
secure for it a place on library shelves. But, nevertheless, it dis-
plays an ability worthy of those who claim a wider range of intelli-
gence. Great opportunities were not, and could not, be within the
reach of John Bailey, the writer of the unique story entitled "A few
remarks on the lives of General and Mrs. Simcoe from 1802 to 1850.*'
During a visit to Wolford in the summer of 1904 I walked to the
village of Dunkeswell, two miles distant from Wolford, and had an
interview with the son of John Bailey, whose story is here presented.
The son, named William, lived in one of the cottages of the village,
belonging to the estate, and received a pension from Mrs. Simcoe. He
had a fairly good recollection of Mrs. Simcoe, the widow of the
General ; for not only as a lad did he know her on the estate but he
entered service at Wolford in 1850 some months prior to her decease.
Of the Misses Simcoe, her daughters, his memory was excellent, and in
his esteem they were all that women should be "good, kind ladies
who looked after the welfare of everyone, man and woman, young
and old, in Dunkeswell" so said William Bailey, who died in 1908,
aged eighty-seven.
Another cottager, John Corrick, who for nearly sixty years had
been in the employ of the family on the home farm and as under
gardener, also added his meed of praise to the many virtues of Mrs.
Simcoe, the widow of the General. As for "the young ladies at
Wolford" he was unstinted in good words for all that they had done
to promote the prosperity and happiness not only of those employed
on the estate, but also of the tenants of the various farms.
He remembered Mrs. Simcoe and her daughters, for he saw them
daily for many years, and added in an earnest tone that while all were
" so good and charitable to everyone " yet Miss Anne was " terribly
kind," an expression common in some parts of Devonshire, and used
390
HIS SERVICE AT WOLFORD
to illustrate perfection of character and the acme of charity. Cor-
rick died in July, 1904, in his 78th year. Mrs. John Kennaway
Simcoe, "The Lady of the Manor," and friends at Wolford attended
the old man's funeral. As one of the family said, "He was a saint
if ever there was one a dear old man, respected and loved by all,
so good-natured, no one ever spoke a hard word of him.'*
John Bailey was born in Awliscombe, four miles from Dunkeswell
and two from Wolford, and as a lad of twelve he entered the service
of the Simcoe family in 1802, as an attendant on the butler for
one year, then he worked as a groom in the stable for four years,
after which he was promoted to the position of footman and finally
as coachman.
He was a good-looking, bright lad of average height his son
said about five feet, eight inches of a cheerful and obliging disposi-
tion, always ready for the call of his butler, by whose grace he had
received his position. He always had a most profound respect and
reverence for the General, who on one occasion had declared that he
was "a good lad/'
After the death of the General in 1806, Bailey continued in Mrs.
Siincoe's service for two years and in 1808 left Wolford. He con-
cluded that a sea-faring life was better suited for him than household
duties; but he tired of roaming over the ocean and in 1816 returned
to his native heath and was again engaged by Mrs. Simcoe as footman,
a position he held for twenty years and then he stepped into the
coachman's seat and held the reins for another twelve years in all
thirty-seven years of service.
He lived during the last years of his service and his life, at the
Percy Cottages at the foot of Percy Hill, which leads down from
Wolford into Dunkeswell. These dwellings are still inhabited.
Bailey married a tidy Devon maiden and had several children.
All are now dead.
Some years before Mrs. Simcoe's death John Bailey was some-
what broken in health, and she bestowed a pension on him, which
continued to be paid until the day of his death, 1st August, 1855.
If ever a man was faithful to his trust it was John Bailey. His
goodness of character seems to have been exceptional, and his loving
attention to his employers and their interests add to the story he has
written a diary in a general way of the life in the happy home at
Wolford. Bailey's memoirs for so they may be justly called are
worthy of men who occupied a higher sphere in the social scale.
Bailey had received a fair education, was an excellent pupil at
the village school, and so secured a large amount of general knowl-
edge that served him in good stead after he had grown to manhood.
It is most refreshing to read this man's manuscript, and in reading
to remember that his heart and soul were full of more than the
average of kindly thought for those who employed him.
Not only was John Bailey faithful in his work as between master
and servant, but he possessed many attributes that commended him to
391
DIARY OF MES. SIMCOE
the Simcoe family. He was evidently an earnest Christian
lie knew the Good Book from cover to cover. He had a sincere
admiration for his mistress, whom he regarded a a model among
womankind. His whole narrative abounds in admiration for her;
and his devotion to the family seems to be that of one who endeavored
not only to serve them in the duties assigned to him, but to lead the
Christian life that was the distinguishing characteristic of those who
lived at Wolford.
I have given the narrative just as it came from the pen of its
author, adding an occasional note in parenthesis, in the body of the
text, explanatory of the location of the places mentioned. The MSS.
is entitled and inscribed as "A Few Eemarks on the lives of General
and Mrs. Simcoe, by John Bailey, from 1802 to 1850." This title
is followed by a "preface" explaining in a way the nature of the
text of the narrative. Bailey writes of the "first and second editions."
The narrative is really in two parts. The first part includes the
period from 1802-8, and is devoted to "Eemarks on the life of Mrs.
Simcoe by John Bailey." The second part embraces the period
from 1818-50 and this covers "the life of General and Mrs. Simcoe."
The hiatus from 1809-17 is explained by the fact that Bailey was
away at sea during that period.
This preface, moreover, does not foreshadow, as a preface generally
does, the interesting "remarks" concerning those whom he has under-
taken to write about. It reads :
Now in my first and second editions of the lives of General and
Mrs. Simcoe, I have not altogether dwelt on their lives, but some other
people also, and some other things, some things about religious things,
and some things about myself and other people; but my chief subject
is on the lives of General and Mrs. Simcoe. But all the particulars
of the lives of General and Mrs. Simcoe, this is far beyond my knowledge,
but I saw enough of them in my 37 years' service at Wolford Lodge to
make out a small history of them, particularly of Mrs. Simcoe's life, as
I have been so many years with her, and travelled so many thousands
of miles with her.
JOHN BAILEY.
392
CHAPTEE XXVIII.
BAILEY'S OPINION OF THE SIMCOE FAMILY.
Now to speak of Mrs. Simcoe. In her lifetime very few have seen
more of her ways than I myself, living in her service nearly forty
years twelve years as coachman, twenty years as footman and five
years when a boy.
Now in Mrs. Simcoe's lifetime I may very well say she was as
good a mistress as ever ruled a house; her works told that she fol-
lowed the example of good old Joshua, who said, "As for me and my
house, we will serve the Lord." Now we can firmly say that at Wol-
ford Lodge not a family in England was kept more regular at family
worship ; there was family prayer morning and evening, and some part
of the Holy Scriptures read and explained to us. The Sabbath Day
was kept holy, and it was Mrs. Simcoe's rule for all in her house
who were able to go to church. She always showed the example her-
self; nothing scarcely would keep her from church no, not even
sickness, for I have known when she has been very unwell that she
would endeavour to go to church. She would not lose the opportunity,
if possible; she was like Mary, she had chosen that good part which
shall not be taken from her, and it was seldom either wind or weather
would keep her from church, nor the ladies (the daughters of Mrs.
Simcoe), for I have known when the snow has been up level with
the hedges and no horse or carriage able to go, the ladies and ser-
vants all set off, the men in front one after another to tread down the
snow, then the ladies and maid-servants in our tracks. "We had no
cause to think that the deepness of the snow would prevent Mr. Clarke
(the Rector of Clayhidon and Vicar of Dunkeswell) from coming to
church, as I never remember him, not once, for the cause of bad
weather to miss coming.
Now there was once something very remarkable at the time of the
service in Dunkeswell Church. The service was at one o'clock; the
first lesson was 1 Kings xviii., and just as Mr. Clarke was reading the
words in the 44th and 45th verses, "And it came to pass at the seventh
time, that he said, Behold there ariseth a little cloud out of the sea,
like a man's hand." Now it seems this cloud which ariseth out of the
sea is the same thing which I have seen and been very near to, what
we call a waterspout; if a ship runs into it it will sink her, it will
break the spout and down the water will come. "And he said, Go
up, say unto Ahab, Prepare thy chariot and get thee down, that the
rain stop thee not. And it came to pass in the meanwhile that the
heaven was black with clouds and wind, and there was a great rain."
And just at that time it became so dark that we could scarcely see
393
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
a word in our books, and soon the rain came down in torrents ; it was
such heavy rain that when we returned to Wolford the house was
overflowed with water, the gratings and gutters choked, the stable
yard like a river, the water running in at the back door and down
the passage to the front hall and drawing-room, which was covered
with water; the two maids that were at home quite frightened, going
about without stockings or shoes. It was a very remarkable thing,
the first lesson giving us notice of the rain. We soon put away the
carriage and horses, and ran into the house and got off the water.
There is one thing more I shall just mention. I went with Mrs.
Simcoe and Miss Caroline to attend a missionary meeting at Welling-
ton (a market town in Somersetshire, at the foot of the Blackdown
Hills). On our way home it came on to rain very much so that there
was a flood. When we came to Millhayes (a farm in Hemyock
pronounced Hem-y-ock in Devon, five miles from Wellington) the
water was very deep. Mr. Manley, the tenant of the farm, said
it was not safe to go through, as the main stream ran close to the
road, and if I should chance to drive one foot out of the way we might
get into it, and it was more than ten feet deep. Mrs. Simcoe asked
me what was to be done. I told her we could first see the deepness
of the water; so Mr. Manley sent someone through on one of his
horses. The water was up to the horse's .side, so I told Mrs. Simcoe I
would quite trust to our horses. I thought "Venture makes the mer-
chant." Old William Selway, the coachman, was with us, so we
jumped on the dickey and started off, but just as we got about half-
way through poor old Selway was quite frightened ; he said the wheels
were quite under the water, he could not see them. I told him not to
say anything and not to be frightened, so I just gave the horses a flick
with the whip. They gave a plunge or two in the water, and we were
soon out of danger and got safe to land, and soon arrived home with-
out any hurt.
Mrs. Simcoe used often to go on a visit to her son, the Rev. Henry
Addington Simcoe, at Penheale, in Cornwall, five miles from Launces-
ton. I was there with her a great many times; she often took the
favourite old black pony for the purpose of taking her morning and
evening rides, which she very much enjoyed, particularly when the
little children rode with her, one before and one behind; the pony
would go so carefully with them. The poor old pony would take
Mrs. Simcoe so carefully over plank bridges, and would go over rocks
with her like a goat, so that she could venture and feel quite safe
going over the rough rocks at Bude, on the north coast of Cornwall,
and other places near Penheale.
Mrs. Simcoe generally took two trips from home in a year, one to
Penheale, and one up the country to different places, but her favourite
places were North Wales, Godstone (in Surrey, nineteen miles from
London), Herefordshire and Cheltenham. We often had to cross the
old Passage near Bristol (the ferry across the Avon between Somer-
setshire and 'Gloucestershire), so as to go from Somersetshire to Here-
394
MRS. SIMCOE VISITS HER BIRTHPLACE
fordshire; and once when we came to Clifton (a suburb of Bristol)
the news came that the vessel, in crossing the "old passage," was sunk
full of passengers, and that all on board perished. I informed Miss
Ann, as I thought Mrs. Simcoe would not go on; but Miss Ann told
me not to say anything about it to Mrs. Simcoe, as it was not likely
to be the steamer that was lost, as it does not cross the Passage on
Sundays, so it must be a sailing vessel.
Off we started for the "Old Passage," and there we were informed
of all the particulars of the misfortune. As the steamer did not
cross on Sundays, and a great many people were wanting to cross
that day, as Monday was the 1st of September, and there were shooting
parties wanting to cross the Passage on Sunday to be in readiness for
Monday morning, and Monday being also Bristol Fair, there were a
great many jobbers wanting to cross to purchase cattle at the Fair,
so they all hired a sailing vessel to cross. Just as the vessel had
started, four or five more jobbers came in great haste and begged the
captain to take them, but he told them he could not take them, but
would return as quickly as possible and cross again. These men
seemed very sorry to have been one minute too late; they were watch-
ing the vessel crossing, and just as she was about half-way across she
gave a lee lurch, filled with water and went down, and everyone on
board perished. There was one gentleman who had his carriage and
horses and servants on board with him ; this gentleman was found,
about eight days afterwards, on part of his own estate, a great many
miles distant from the place where the vessel sank.
They say there were many thousands of pounds went down in the
vessel, which the dealers had with them to purchase stock at Bristol
Fair. What a dreadful thing for so many of our fellow-creatures to
be taken off so suddenly, and, worst of all, everyone on board was
breaking God's Commandment on the Sabbath Day.
We arrived at Whitchurch, which is a large village in Hereford-
shire, on the River Wye. Mrs. Simcoe and the ladies stayed at Old
Court, the former residence of Col. Gwillim and birthplace of Mrs.
Simcoe, and I at the Crown Inn. I was speaking of the sad mis-
fortune that had happened at the Old Passage (the ferry across the
Avon between Somersetshire and Gloucestershire). The master of
the inn was one of those that came to the Passage to cross, but was one
minute too late. They told me he was then in bed, and he seemed to be
quite a changed man, and he considered he was like a brand plucked
out of the burning. There was a sermon preached at the Forest
Church (in the Forest of Dean, an ancient royal forest between the
estuary of the rivers Severn and Wye, in Gloucestershire) by Mr.
Gurnsey, the minister, on the melancholy occasion.
Mrs. Simcoe stayed at Whitchurch some time ; it had been her
former home, and where most of her friends lay. Old Court is now
a farmhouse, but formerly a grand place as the residence of Col.
Gwillim. The house is something like Penheale. Whitchurch is a
very beautiful place with a handsome little church quite close to the
395
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
beautiful River Wye. I think I can venture to say that the River
Wye is as fine a river as any in England.
From Chepstow, the market town in Monmouthshire, to the town
of Ross, in Herefordshire, is very fine. The beautiful Forest of Dean;
the ruins of Chepstow Castle, built in the eleventh century; the pic-
turesque ruins of Tintern Abbey, built in the eleventh century and
rebuilt in the thirteenth; 'Goodrich Castle, Goodrich Court, and
many other grand places are close by the River Wye. This river
is more than a hundred and thirty miles in length, and is very
fine and beautiful all the way. I have been with Mrs. and Miss Ann
Simcoe on by the river to the mountain (of Plynlymmon, in North
Wales) where it springs. It is seldom that Mrs. Simcoe stays in Here-
fordshire long, only just to pay a short visit to her tenants at Old
Court, on her late father's estate ; then we returned home, and seldom
go from home in the winter.
It is a most extraordinary and providential thing that so many
thousand of miles as I have travelled with Mrs. Simcoe, not one
misfortune or accident ever happened. Nor can we find out for what
reason this great blessing was on us that we should always go out and
come in with safety. I should say the reason was that on Mrs.
Simcoe's leaving home on a journey, at family prayers the protection
was put into the hands of the Almighty; and what can be safer than
that? The 121st Psalm was also read before departure, trusting en-
tirely to the Lord for protection on the journey. Mrs. Simcoe every
day read, or had read to her, some part of the Holy Scripture, and in
it she could plainly see the protection the Lord grants to His people,
and there we can see it if we like to look at it. In the 13th chapter
of Exodus, the 20th, 21st and 22nd verses, we can see the protection
the Lord granted to them in their journey; and again, in the 2nd
chapter of St. Matthew's gospel, in the 8th and 9th verses, what a
prosperous journey to find what so many generations have been look-
ing for so long. It was one of the first discoveries that ever was
made, far greater than the discovery of all the gold mines of Peru
or Mexico. They found the Saviour of the world. Look at the 24th
chapter of St. Luke, verses 15, 30 and 31 ; then look at the 24th chap-
ter of Genesis, verses 10 and 36, and there are many other places' where
we can see that the Lord has prospered His people in their journeys;
and so He prospers Mrs. Simcoe in all her journeys, so that she
always went out and came in without any misfortune or accident
happening. We know that when Mrs. Simcoe is going on a journey
she does not rush into the carriage as a horse rushes into the battle,
without thinking of the danger it is running into. No, she looks be-
fore she leaps, and says, "Lord, hold Thou me up and I shall be
safe."
Mrs. Simcoe certainly had a very great talent given 'her, and she
greatly improved it; she certainly was of a good understanding and
of good judgment, very quick and very clever. She was a very early
riser, seldom in bed after five or six o'clock. In the summer she and
396
BAILEY ON LIFE AT WOLFOKD
her youngest daughter, Miss Ann, always take a ride at six o'clock
in the morning before breakfast, and go four or five miles on the
Black Down Hills, a rising ground on the borders of Devonshire and
Somerset. Mrs. Simcoe was very fond of early riding. When she was
young she has ridden from Wolford Lodge to Clovelly, a village on
the North Devon coast between Bideford and Bude, on horseback,
a distance of forty miles; and when she was on a journey she always
started at six o'clock, and went fifteen or twenty miles before break-
fast. Once she went to a watering-place, and a lady of the place
asked one of the bathing women whether Mrs. Simcoe had arrived or
not. She said she had not heard, but she had seen a lady at the other
end of the beach that morning drawing at six o'clock, and if it was
not Mrs. Simcoe she could not think who else it could be at that early
hour.
General Simcoe, when living, followed the same plan of early ris-
ing. He would very often be either out riding or walking at five or
six o'clock in the morning with Mr. Scadding, planning about plant-
ing the Plantations; and often General and Mrs. Simcoe would be
out in the Canadian snow slides (sleighs) when the snow was deep.
These snow slides do not go heavy and dead as anyone might suppose,
but slip along on the snow, so that a pony could draw it, and General
and Mrs. Simcoe often drove out so, and I formerly went with them.
General Simcoe used to drive these snow slides himself; he brought
them from Canada; the bottom is quite plain and flat, so they do not
sink down into the snow, but slip along very easy. Now as General
and Mrs. Simcoe were both so fond of being out early in the morning,
it seems that Mr. H. A. Simcoe followed their example. I have many
times, when he was visiting at Wolford, been with his hot water to
call him at six o'clock, but when I came to his room he was up and
gone walking, perhaps three or four miles.
There is another thing in which Mr. Simcoe seems to follow the
example of his father. We see the great improvement General Simcoe
made in the parish of Dunkeswell, so there was the very same done by
Mr. Simcoe in the parish of Egloskerry, in Cornwall. Very soon after
Mr. Simcoe was at Penheale, I went there on a visit with Mrs. Simcoe.
I may very well say that the road from Egloskerry to Penheale was
not fit for a cart to go over, and I had to go over it every day in the
carriage, and had trouble enough to keep out of the deep ruts, and as
Penheale was at that time a farmhouse there were no spare bedrooms,
so I had to go five miles with Mrs. Simcoe to Launceston every night.
The hill at Launceston was at that time as steep as the side of a house,
but our horses were strong and staunch. We stayed at Penheale by
day and Launceston by night.
Mrs. Simcoe is going to make great alterations at Penheale, and
also at Egloskerry (five miles from Launceston). I was at Penheale
with Mrs. Simcoe nine different times, and each time found it greatly
improved, as Mr. Simcoe soon had all the house. The rooms at Pen-
heale are certainly very beautiful, the fine wood-carved work I never
397
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
saw the equal, the beautiful cornices and fine ceilings. The roads
are now very good, and there is a nice lodge at the entrance of the
house. The village of Egloskerry is very much improved by many
new houses, and also a nice, large schoolroom, and there is a great im-
provement in the church. It certainly looks very nice, particularly
when lighted up, for it is something remarkable to see a country
church lighted up for evening service, and quite crowded.
Once I was -with Mrs. Simcoe on a visit near Egloskerry ; she was
riding the black pony, and on our way back to Penheale, it being dark,
we saw a very bright light on a Mil. She asked me what light I should
think it was. I told her it was Tremaine Church (six miles from
Launceston and three miles from Egloskerry), lighted up for Wednes-
day evening service. Although we were a long distance from the
church we could see the people in the church, and Mr. Simcoe in the
pulpit, moving to and fro, as we supposed, preaching. (The parishes
of Egloskerry and Tremaine are united.)
Now to turn again to Mrs. Simcoe's travels. Her favourite place
was North Wales ; the scenery there is most beautiful ; the inhabitants
are very civil people; the lofty mountains, fine lakes and waterfalls
present a most delightful appearance.
There were two places in particular which Mrs. Simcoe very much
admired. One was Snowdon, the other the Devil's Bridge (near a
village in Cardiganshire, ten miles from Aberystwith), and the moun-
tain Snowdon is certainly very grand from its great height, and the
Devil's Bridge from its great depth. The Devil's Bridge is a very
curious place. There is a very nice inn near it, and many people stay
there to see the bridge and the waterfall. There are two bridges, one
built over the other, and from the top bridge to the water measures
110 feet. (The bridge spans the narrow gorge of the river Mynoch.)
I went down to the water's edge with Miss Harriet and Miss Ann
Simcoe, for the purpose of taking a sketch of the bridges ; it certainly
is a very frightful place to behold when down by the water.
We had a guide with us, and he told me that he had been down
many a time with gentlemen, and that before they had got half-way
down they would return, afraid to venture any further. I asked the
guide what made them call the bridge by such a curious name. He
told me it was supposed that this name of the Devil's Bridge, or " The
Bridge of the Evil One," was given it because no one could remember
when it was built, neither could they imagine for what purpose the
under bridge was built, and some fancy it was never built by the
hands of man, because they never could find any account or history of
its erection. I fancy myself that it could be plainly seen that the top
bridge was built for the purpose of bringing the road more to a level,
and to make it more convenient for the passengers, for the under
bridge was very low, and I daresay they did not think it worth while
to destroy it, as it did not cause the least inconvenience. Mrs. Simcoe
very much admired this bridge and the waterfall; so she also very
much admired Snowdon. I was on the top of it with Miss Harriet
398
MRS. SIMCOE FOND OF WALES
and Miss Ann Simcoe, but unfortunately there was a fog. There is
a pillar erected on the top built of large, rough stones, and on it there
is fixed a high staff. With great difficulty I climbed up the staff,
merely for curiosity. The pillar is for a sea-mark. When clear, some
parts of Ireland are visible from it.
Beddgelert was another place Mrs. Simcoe was very fond of.
Whilst Mrs. Simcoe was there, Miss Harriet wished to go to Bala
(in Merionethshire, Wales), and I was to go with her; so a fly was
ordered, and we went to Capel Curig, fourteen miles, then to Cerni-
ogge, both in Carnarvonshire, fifteen miles; then to Bala (in Merion-
ethshire), thirteen miles, where we stopped two hours for the horses
to rest ; all these are in North Wales. Miss Harriet Simcoe remained
there. Miss Simcoe then went to Aberhirnaut, a beautiful spot a few
miles from Bala, where Mr. H. Richardson and his wife, who was a
Miss Shu'ldham, of Deerpark, near Honiton, were residing. I was to
return with the fly to Cerniogge, and to take the first coach to
Beddgelert (at the foot of Snowdon, on the borders of Car-
narvonshire and Merionethshire), but there was no coach going
there until the next day at twelve o'clock, and as I thought
Mrs. Simcoe would want me, I started off on foot. It was
then eleven o'clock at night. I had to pass by a forest which
seemed to be very lonesome and dismal, but I was very much
amused by the nightingales and night crows singing so beautifully,
and it sounded so remarkably well in the middle of the night, and I
had also the grand sound of the waterfalls, which were a great way
off ; they could be heard ten or fifteen miles distant roaring down from
the mountains. The road that I was travelling on was one of the
largest and finest in England from London to Holyhead and Dublin :
although so many travel upon it, I did not meet or see man or woman
except the Holyhead mail, which passed at two o'clock, although the
stage is fifteen miles. I arrived at Capel Curig, and stopped to rest
a little while; then off I started again another stage, fourteen miles.
About four or five miles this side of Beddgelert, the village near
Snowdon, there is a fine view of Snowdon and other mountains, which
I thought Mrs. Simcoe would like to see, to take a sketch of them.
Beddgelert is a large village, in a green basin shut in by mountains
and high precipices. It gets its name from the story of Llewellyn,
who came here during the hunting season with his child and his grey-
hound, Gelert. The child, left unprotected in a hut, was attacked by
a wolf. On Lewellyn's return he met Gelert wagging his tail, but
covered with blood. Alarmed, and thinking that the dog had injured
the child, the impetuous prince slew the hound. He entered the hut,
to find the dead body of a wolf lying near his sleeping child, disclos-
ing to him his fatal mistake and the fidelity of Gelert. In grief for
his dog the prince erected a tomb and called the spot Beddgelert, from
Bedd, the grave, and Gelert, the dog.
Although I had walked twenty-nine miles during the night I did
not feel tired, so I informed Mrs. Simcoe of the fine scenery that I had
399
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
passed through. She said she should like to go to see it, but I was to
rest myself for a little while. I did not tell Mrs. Simcoe that I had
been travelling all night, as I thought it might disappoint her of the
ride, as she might think it too much for me ; so I got two ponies, one
for Mrs. Simcoe and one for Miss Ann Simcoe, and after I had rested 1
a little while I informed Mrs. Simcoe that they were ready. So off
we started and got to the place. Mrs. Simcoe was quite delighted
with the scenery, and stopped there a long time drawing and taking
the sketch of it. Then we returned, very much pleased, and although
my walk was forty miles I did not feel tired, but quite delighted.
Close to Beddgelert there is a fine mountain called Moel Hebog,
which Miss Ann Simcoe had a wish to go to the top of, and wished
me to go with her. So off we started ; we had four or five miles to get
to the top by winding round it. There was a fog, but it made it look
a great deal finer, as the fog would clear off, then suddenly the whole
bottom would look beautiful. The village and church of Beddgelert
looked remarkably fine. There is a very deep precipice I should
think eight or nine hundred feet deep which looked rather frightful.
Miss Ann Simcoe seemed to be very much pleased with her walk, so
we went down the mountain and informed Mrs. Simcoe what a pleas-
ant walk we had 'had. We left the delightful village of Beddgelert for
Capel Curig Inn, and stopped there a few days.
There is a mountain near the inn, which Miss Ann Simcoe wished
very much to go to .the top of, so Mrs. Simcoe consented for her to go
and me to go with her. This mountain very much reminded me of the
mountain of Trincutte, one of the Nicobar Islands, off the Malay
Peninsula in the Indian Ocean, which the officers of our ship went up.
The distance straight to the top of it was about two miles, but they
had to go thirty to get to the top, which took them two days. So Miss
Ann Simcoe and I had to go many miles to get to the top of this
mountain. It is most beautiful on the top, and it was a fine clear
day, so that we could see a great distance. We could see the Sugar
Loaf mountain, near Abergavenny, in Monmouthshire, quite plainly,
although sixty miles off, and thirteen lakes Bala Lake, twenty-five
miles distant, quite plain.
After stopping on the mountain for some time viewing the fine
sights, we returned to the inn, and then made our departure from
North Wales for Herefordshire, going through Oswestry (a market
town in Shropshire, fifteen miles from Shrewsbury), the town of
Shropshire, Ludlow (a town twenty-five miles from Shrewsbury),
Leominster and Hereford (the capital of Herefordshire), where we
attended the cathedral services. Then on to Whitchurch, where we
stayed a fortnight. The cholera was raging very bad in Devonshire,
and also at Bristol, and in all England, but there was not a single
ease in North Wales.
Mrs. Simcoe enjoyed herself very much at Old Court, riding on a
pony nearly every day, viewing the fine scenery. Then we left Whit-
church for home, went as far as the town of Ross and stopped the
400
MES. SIMCOE FAVOES CHELTENHAM
night. Mrs. Simcoe wished for me to go by the first coach to get
home as quickly as I possibly could, as she had not sent any letter to
say she was coming home ; so I started by the first coach, and arrived
at Taunton, in Somersetshire, about nine at night. There was no
coach for Honiton, so I walked off for Wolford, then ten o'clock at
night. My journey seemed to me rather dismal. I had not got the
beautiful singing nightingales to amuse me as I had in North Wales.
I cannot say I saw no one on my way from Taunton to Wolford
Lodge, for I fell in with company which I did not very much like
a party of poachers by the Blackdown Plantation, between Wolford
and Taunton, and about ten miles from Honiton; but they made off,
and I got to Wolford quite safe, and arrived about three o'clock in
the morning, after a walk of fourteen miles and a ride of one hundred.
Next day Mrs. and Miss Ann Simcoe arrived, and I never recol-
lect Mrs. Simcoe having been so much pleased with a journey before
as this to North Wales; the fine sights and those high mountains,
which she used to say she had a great deal sooner go to see than any
of the fine buildings or places in London one was the work of man
that can be destroyed by man again, the same as Jerusalem and the
fine temple; this was built by man, and again all destroyed by man;
but the fine mountains of North Wales cannot be destroyed by man.
They are like the hills round Jerusalem, that stand fast forever.
Mrs. Simcoe generally went to Cheltenham (a watering-place in
Gloucestershire, on the Chelten arm of the Severn) once a year in
the season. It is wonderful to see the great improvements there are
in Cheltenham. The first time I went there with Mrs. Simcoe was
in 1824. At that time there was only one church, but in 1841, the
last time I was there with Mrs. and Miss Simcoe and Miss Ann
Simcoe, there were five large, beautiful churches, and the old church
greatly enlarged, with a large new gallery erected all round the
church, and also greatly improved; and it was delightful to see the
fine, large congregations that attend there, and more delightful to
see so many attend the Sacrament. They came at eight o'clock;
sometimes there would be six or eight hundred attend, and again as
many at the forenoon service. It was wonderful to see how many
attended the evening service at six o'clock every seat and aisle and
gallery quite full. A large congregation is the proof of a good
preacher, which was the case at the old church, as Mr. Close is sup-
posed to be as good a preacher as there is in England. He was called
Dean Close, and was a great friend of Mrs. Simcoe, and lived at
Cheltenham. At the other churches in Cheltenham there are very
good preachers.
It is wonderful to see the great improvements that have been
made in Cheltenham since the first time I was there with Mrs. Simcoe
in 1824-^so many fine new streets, squares and terraces, having been
built, and also two very beautiful spas and bath houses, and very fine
hotels and inns. It was formerly the saying that Leamington (on the
river Learn, in Warwickshire) "was the place for the remedy of the
26 401
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
body, and Cheltenham for the remedy of the soul, but I think that
Cheltenham is the place where we may get a remedy for our souls
and bodies ; as the bread and wine so often administered to us in the
Sacrament, which is the sure remedy for the soul, so the Cheltenham
waters are a remedy for the body; but so many thousands of people
get so much benefit by drinking the waters. I think Cheltenham is
as fine a place as any in England, both for spiritual and temporal
things. It is, as we may say, a heaven on earth, for what can be more
like heaven than being in a heavenly place. By such places as this
England receives all its blessing, as the Lord saith, " Him that
honoureth me, will I honour." Every time that I was at Chelten-
ham with Mrs. Simcoe, which was many times, it was quite a bles-
sing to be there, to see the large congregations that attend on the
Sabbath Day at all the churches to praise and glorify the God that
made the heavens and the earth and all that in them is.
Mrs. Simcoe generally stayed at Cheltenham five or six weeks,
and then returned home, generally a great deal better, both in tem-
poral and spiritual things.
402
CHAPTEE XXIX.
THE PASSING OF MRS. SIMCOE.
As Mrs. Simcoe advanced in years, as we might expect, her
strength failed, and at the latter end of her life she did not go far
from home. Sidmouth was the furthest place, and she would only
stay a short time. At home she generally took a small drive, every day
when it was fine, and sometimes she went out in the wheel chair,
which she very much enjoyed. The last time she was ever out she
rook two drives in one day, but she was very unwell ; she then took
to her bed. She was often visited by Mr. Muller, vicar of Dunkes-
well, and also by Mr. H. A. Simcoe, her son; they both gave a very
good account of the state of her soul. She was pressing towards
the mark for the prize of the high calling of God in Christ
Jesus, nothing doubting but that He who had begun a good work in
her would perform it until the day of Jesus Christ. God is faithful
that hath promised, and therefore she rests assured that He will
remember her work of faith and labour of love, and patience of hope
in our Lord Jesus Christ. happy time for those blessed souls who
have fought the good fight and kept the faith. We feel assured that
Mrs. Simcoe is one of this number; although the lamp of life is
nearly extinguished, yet another life is sprung up the light of God's
Holy Spirit, and that will be a light even when walking through the
valley of the shadow of death. It will not be death to the believer,
only the shadow of it, so she need fear no evil, but may say with the
Psalmist, " For thou art with me, thy rod and thy staff they comfort
me." What could she fear, whose soul is anchored upon the Rock
of Ages, who has the God of Jacob for her help, whose hope is in the
Lord her God ? She knows that she is in the hands of a most gracious
and merciful God, and now that her days are almost at an end I
think that I can firmly say that Mrs. Simcoe, now at her last hour,
can look back upon a life well spent, and can say with Hezekiah.
" Remember now, Lord, I beseech thee, how I have walked before
thee in truth, and with a perfect heart, and have done that which is
good in thy. sight." What a happy death. What comfort it must be,
not only to the dying person, but to the living friends and relations
present; and now she may say, as good old Joshua said, "Behold,
this day I am going the way of all the earth."
So her last day came, and she died in a good old age, full of days,
riches and honour. Mrs. Simcoe departed this life at Wolford Lodge,
January 17th, 1850, after forty-four years of widowhood. Her death
will be lamented by many, and she will be missed by many, both at
home and abroad, by the poor and the afflicted, and by the heathen
403
DIAEY OF MES. SIMCOE
in different countries abroad. She promoted the societies for sending
to them Bibles, and missionaries to instruct them.
Now at Mrs. Simcoe's funeral all her six children attended, and
all the clergy of the neighbourhood, and the tenantry, household ser-
vants and workmen. A beautiful escutcheon was placed over the
front door, done by Mr. Ward, of Honiton. The body was taken
from the front door, and the whole funeral procession went off from
the front door, and went slowly round the front of the house and up
the garden walks. I thought to myself how many journeys and to
how many different places I had been with Mrs. Simcoe, and now
going one more for the last to her grave; what a hard stroke! The
funeral service was read by Mr. Muller in the chapel. The body was
then taken to the grave close to General Simcoe's. When it was let
down into the grave I thought what a wonderful thing it was that
I should have been present at General Simcoe's funeral, then only
a boy of fifteen years of age, and now an old man of sixty to be
present at Mrs. Simcoe's funeral forty-four years afterwards. She
was the mother of eleven children nine living when General Simcoe
died. What a striking thing, what a charge to be left with such a
family, and she at that time only little more than forty years of age !
One would scarcely think it to be true, but such was the case.
General Simcoe's funeral was one of the largest that was ever
known in Devonshire, he then being Commander-in-Chief of all the
Western District. So by reason of that a very large body of troops
attended the funeral, Infantry, Cavalry and Artillery, many thou-
sands. As the procession left Exeter, a long train of carriages fol-
lowed and the streets were lined with troops with arms reversed, so
the procession left the city of Exeter for Wolford Lodge. Artillery
were stationed with their guns at Straightway Head (near Escot, in
Devon, owned by Sir John Kennaway), and Fenny Bridges (a hamlet
belonging to the parish of Feniton, four miles from Honiton), and
fired as the procession passed on. The East Devon Yeomanry Cavalry
were stationed at the battery on St. Gyres Hill, close to Wolford.
This regiment was raised by General Simcoe. The second troop was
the Dunkeswell troop, chiefly General Simcoe's tenants. As the funeral
procession passed through Honiton the shops were closed and the
streets were lined with troops with arms reversed. Part of the 3rd
Begiment of Dragoon Guards was in advance of the procession, and
one thing looked very striking, one of the Dragoons led General
Simcoe's charger, a favourite horse, with the General's arms on it.
So the procession arrived at Wolford Lodge Chapel attended by thou-
sands of people. The church field was crowded. The Luppitt Com-
pany of Artillery (Volunteers raised in Luppitt village by General
Simcoe to oppose the expected invasion by Napoleon) was there with
the guns, which were fired when the body was put in the grave, which
shook the very house of Wolford.
But what a difference it will be when this body shall rise again at
the resurrection. What a difference there will be between the sound
404
WHEN BONAPARTE THREATENED ENGLAND
of the great guns and the sound of the mighty trumpet, when the
powers of Heaven shall be shaken; and what a difference there will
be between the tribe of people that was in the church field (although
that was a great number) and the tribe it will be when all the people
that ever were born into this world, from Adam to this time, shall be
assembled, when all who are in their graves shall rise again. And
what another great difference there will be to those who have served
the Lord, and to those who have served Him not. And what a differ-
ence there will be to those on the right hand, and to those on the left.
And what a difference there will be in the places to which they are to
go. To those on the right hand it will be said, " Come, ye blessed
of my Father, inherit the kingdom prepared for you from the foun-
dation of the World," but to those who have not served the Lord it
will be said, "Depart, ye cursed." All of us now living have the
choice, and if we wish to be like those on the right hand, we must
follow the advice of good old Joshua, who said, " As for me and my
house, we will serve the Lord."
Mrs. Simcoe was one who followed that advice in her house. See
what a blessing it was to her to have such a happy death as she seems
to have 'had, how she met her death without fear or amazement. She is
gone, I hope, to a happy place, where the wicked cease from troubling,
and where the weary are at rest. She is gone, and her works do follow
her. The talent that she had given her was improved.
General Simcoe, like his wife, had talent and improved it. He
was a very useful man in the world ; by that he got to such high rank.
How soon he reached the rank of General. See what good he did in
Canada. When he went there as Governor there were no provisions
but what were sent to them from England. But what a great change
there was soon after; instead of our sending provisions to them they
sent them to us, and he made great improvements there while Gov-
ernor, and see, again, how much he did here in England. What
danger the country was then in. The French were then preparing a
very large expedition to invade England, and Devonshire was the place
where it was the intention of Bonaparte to land, very likely at Tor
Bay. The whole of the west of England was put under the care
of General Simcoe; he was Commander-in-Chief. He raised a very
large body of troops, and every man who was able in the West of
England had something to do or perform if the enemy should Iari8.
All the carpenters were ready with their saws and axes to cut down
the trees and lay them across the roads to prevent the enemy from
passing; furze ricks put on the hills to set fire to them if the enemy
did land, to alarm the country. There were camps at different places.
It was supposed that Tor Bay, on the east coast of Devonshire, would
certainly be Bonaparte's landing place, and to London his route, so
that the great road from Exeter to London was General Simcoe's chief
care, to prevent the enemy from passing that way; he had a large
camp on Woodbury Common, six miles from Exeter, of many thou-
sand troops, and also a very strong battery on St. Cyres's Hill, where
405
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
there was plenty of room to work 200 great guns. I should think it
'impossible for an army to pass the bottom through Honiton, as the
guns on that battery would very well carry balls as far as Fenny
Bridges.
So great were the preparations made by General Simcoe in this
part of the country that he left not a stone unturned, all the soldiers
that were under his command in the four counties of Dorsetshire,
Devonshire, Somersetshire and Cornwall were well trained, as the
General often had sham fights. There was one very grand one; there
were four thousand soldiers present, and, I should think, ten thousand
lookers-on. The battle began at Fenny Bridges; the Militia and
Regulars were the French, and the Volunteers, Yeomanry Cavalry
and Volunteer Artillery with their cannon were to be the English.
So the French retreated to Hembury Fort, owned by Admiral Graves,
and on the lawns there was a very sharp attack. It was so sharp that
there was great fear the soldiers would get in earnest, so orders were
given for the Regulars to retreat to Hembury Fort Hill, the site of an
ancient Roman camp and fort, the property of Admiral Graves, where
the battle ended, and the English gained a complete victory. Hem-
bury Fort, three miles from Wolford, was like a large fair with stands.
The "French" encamped on Hembury Fort Hill for the night; the
"tents looked very grand on the hill. After they were pitched, the
evening gun was fired , at nine o'clock for all the soldiers to be in
their tents. I was present and witnessed the whole of it. A few inci-
dents happened. One young lad was very near being killed; he was
close to the muzzle of a cannon when it was fired and the charge
(but it was only powder) went to his head and face, so he was blinded.
'Great praise was due to the officers and soldiers for their soldierlike
manner in the sham fight.
General Simcoe had another very large sham fight soon after this
'at Totnes (in Devonshire, eight miles from Torquay). He generally
had some regular regiments at the sham fights to instruct the Volun-
teers and Militia, so by this means General Simcoe trained the Volun-
. leers to become good soldiers, and fit for an army .to meet the French
when they landed. At Wolford Lodge, General Simcoe was just about
the middle of the Western District, so when there he was at his post,
,and despatches were sent to him every day from the headquarters at
Plymouth. There were, three dragoons at the half-way house, sta-
tioned there to bring the despatches which came from Exeter and
Plymouth. One of the dragoons came over to Wolford with des-
patches at 12 o'clock at night. He came by Buckerall, four miles
from Honiton, and up the Grange road, a private road from' Wql fora 1
to Awliscombe, but made a mistake and came through the Chase and
under Sand Walk. Formerly there was a Canadian wooden bridge
for foot passengers only; the bridge crossed over a deep gully. The
dragoon thought to get his horse over it, so he led it, but in crossing
the horse slipped and fell into the gully from the bridge to the bottom,
so the poor man came to the house and rang the door bell. He said
406
THE VOLUNTEERS OF DEVONSHIRE
he had brought despatches for General Simcoe, but his horse was gone
down. So some men with lights were sent out to see what had become
of the poor horse, and to their great surprise they found the horse in
the gully standing under the bridge where it fell down, although
from the bridge to the bottom was nearly 20 feet, and also rough
stones to fall on, and yet the horse was not hurt at all. They had to
take it down a long way before they could get it up from the gully,
and the horse was able to return to the half-way house again, after
resting and feeding; but it was thought a most wonderful thing that
the horse was not killed on the spot from so great a fall.
The training of the Volunteers was General Simcoe's great care;
he had raised such very large bodies, not a parish in the West of Eng-
land wherein there were not Volunteers. At every town eight or ten
companies of them would meet for six or eight days' training and
exercise; there was nearly a thousand of them met at Honiton for
eight days' training; and those men were from the neighborhood of
Honiton.
There were nearly fifty thousand Volunteers in Devonshire, and
General Simcoe reviewed them all, so the Volunteers were nearly as
good soldiers as there were in the regular regiments. General Simcoe
sometimes had the Honiton Volunteers first and second companies
at Wolford Lodge to exercise and fire, and then would treat them
with a nice dinner, have tables fixed through the avenue for two hun-
dred of them, the band at the front of the house playing some lively
tunes. Sometimes the Volunteers would meet at the Battery on St.
Cyres's Hill and the Luppitt Company of Volunteer Artillery com-
manded by Captain Pierce, of Greenway (a house in Luppitt parish,
three miles from Wolford). On any particular day, such as the
fourth of June, the King's birthday, a royal salute was fired by the
Artillery, the Ensign was hoisted at the flag-staff. This flag-staff
General Simcoe had fixed there when the battery was built, it was
very high, the ensign was very large the St. George's flag it is at
Wolford Lodge at this present time.
Now to proceed with Bonaparte's invading England, which we
know for certain it was his intention to do, as the preparations for
conveying the armies to England were prepared. It was arranged to
convey the armies from France to England in large, flat-bottomed
boats, many hundreds of which were built for the purpose; some of
these boats would carry three or four hundred men, so that five
hundred of these boats would bring over to England at least a hun-
dred and fifty thousand men. It was Bonaparte's plan to come over
by night, and land his troops so as to take England by surprise ; but
as General Simcoe was making such great preparations it was likely
that Bonaparte was aware of it, as there were supposed to be many
French spies in England spying out the country, but if Bonaparte does
come he will come suddenly, like a thief in the night. We may say
now that General Simcoe is ready, let it be what day or what hour;
407
DIABY OF MRS. SIMCOE
if it be at evening, or at midnight, or at the cock-crowing or in the
morning, he will be watching and ready to meet them.
General Simcoe has been so very busy in preparing for the French
and to be ready to give them a meeting, so now he looks at home
at his own parish, Dunkeswell; what great improvements he has been
making there. If anyone could have seen it when he came there
first, and see it now, they would think it was not the same place. Just
look at Blackdown Hills, the high ridge from Luppitt Hill, up a very
steep hill to Broadhembury Hill, near Wolford, not a hedge or tree
was to be seen; no road, only wheel tracks. No road from Wolford
to Dunkeswell, nothing but wheel ruts and not fit for a cart to pass
on it. As for waggons, there was not one in the parish of Dunkeswell.
General Simcoe had the first waggon that was in the parish.
408
CHAPTER XXX.
THE VILLAGE OF DUNKESWELL.
Now to view the village of Dunkeswell; when I came to service
at Wolford Lodge in 1802 there were six old houses in the village,
and the Church, which was so small that only about forty people
could sit down in it, and it was the only place of worship in the parish.
But just see it now in 1850 ! Instead of one little church there are
three fine handsome churches (Luppitt, Dunkeswell and Dunkeswell
Abbey churches), with sittings for nearly a thousand people in them,
and instead of six houses in the village, there are thirty. Again, just
view the Blackdown Hills in 1850, formerly no road, hedge or tree
to be seen, but now many fine plantations, with many thousands of
trees in them, and many thousands have been cut down. All these
plantations were planned by General Simcoe and Mr. John Scadding.
What great good these plantations have been to the neighbourhood
from the timber, and the number of labourers employed about them,
and also the great profit they bring in. And think what great im-
provements General Simcoe made in the house at Wolford, how many
thousands of pounds it cost in building, and fifty men employed daily.
As General Simcoe was a military man he wished all that came
there to come in a military way. All the tradespeople assembled at
the end of the Avenue and fell in there two deep according to their
trades, those of the highest rank in trade going first. When all were
mustered they were marched off to the house with a drum and fife
played before them, then all received their orders and were dismissed.
When they left work all fell in again, and were marched off with drum
and fife.
So much building at Wolford was a great expense, as all the tim-
ber was bought, there not being a tree on the Wolford estate fit for
building, but if there had been, General Simcoe would not have had
a tree cut down by any means; even the fire-wood for the use of the
house was all bought, not a stick was to be cut down. The only timber
at Wolford was the Long Copse, or plantation, so General Simcoe
employed a great many people planting. So very much labour was
going on at Wolford that if anyone wanted work if they went there
they were sure to get it, there were so many new roads, new hedges,
and so much planting of trees. One excellent thing General Simcoe
was going to do, which was to make a new carriage road through the
under sand walk and chase; the stones were drawn to build a bridge
across the gully. This road was meant for an Exeter road through
Buckerall to Fenny Bridges, and would make it near four miles
shorter than going through Honiton, and also save two turnpikes
and many long hills; and it was General Simcoe's plan to make this
409
DIAEY OF MES. SIMCOE
the road from Wolford to Honiton, instead of going through Combe
Baleigh, so as to avoid the very steep hills, for the road from Honiton
to Grange farm is very good and level ; the only hill would be from
Grange to the Chase gate, which is but little, and that little could
have been made better. General Simcoe was going to have another
new road instead of the Dunkeswell road, coming down the Limers
Lane. When coming from Honiton he meant it to go on the old
Taunton road for a little, then to branch off straight to Dunkeswell ;
and it was also General Simcoe's plan for Limers Lane, the road from
Wolford Cross to Wolford, to be made a private carriage drive to
Wolford, and to be the grand entrance to the house.
If it had pleased the Lord that General Simcoe had lived a few
years longer, a very great improvement would have been made at
Wolf ord, and also in the neighbourhood, for we see how much has been
already done, for .he very much liked Wolford, and it certainly is a
very pleasant situation and has a very nice view from the front of
the house, a fine rich vale for twenty miles, the little river Otter
taking its course by Fenny Eidges to Ottery, five miles from Honiton,
then on to Budleigh Salterton, a seaside place on the south Devon
coast ; the beautiful valley from Wolford Lodge to Budleigh Salterton,
which is twenty miles, can all be seen from Wolford Lodge. This
rich tract of land, as rich as any in England, also the beautiful hills
that are in sight from the front of the house, the East and West Hills,
Woodbury Hill, Haldon Hill, ten miles from Exeter; Gittesham,
three miles from Honiton ; Buckerall Knap (" knap " is a local term
for a smallhill or rising ground); some parts of Dartmoor, Bury
Head, Beacon Hill, near Exmouth, -all can be seen from Wolford
Lodge, and also a very fine view of the sea. One can see the ships
Very plainly passing. up and, down the English Channel and going
in and coming out of Tor Bay, Exmouth and Teignmouth Harbours,
which, all. look very pleasant in fine weather.
There was one very great blessing at Wolford Lodge ; it is a very
healthy place, very little sickness ever was there. . Although 'it was
such" a large establishment, particularly, when General Simcoe was.
living, yet not one death took place from the year 1802 until 1846,
when Miss Henrietta Simcoe died, and in 1850 Mrs. Simcoe died;
for although we may live in a healthy place, death will surely come,.
" for since by man came death, by man came also the resurrection
o'f the dead ; for as in Adam all die even so in Christ shall all be made
alive." We see God is all in all, and in him we live and move and
have our being.
Although General Simcoe so much enjoyed "being at Wolford
Lodge, his services were very much. required elsewhere.. He had such
a large body of troops under his command, particularly volunteers
who wanted so much training and reviewing, and he had to watch
the. , movements of Bonaparte's great expedition, and it was not.
known whether he would come or not, all had to be in readiness, for r
General Simcoe knew well th^t Bonaparte was a very covetous man,
41Q
THE ANNIVERSARY OF TRAFALGAR
wanting all the world; and also, like the unjust judge who feared
not God neither regarded man. If he had feared God he would not
have done what he did when he took Spain, making the churches into
'stables for his horses; and again, when he took the large city of
Warsaw (Moscow) he drove out the inhabitants to perish and die
with cold, whilst he and his army lived in it. But Providence would
not permit that he and his army should dwell in the city, for the
^Russians set fire to it and burnt it to ashes, and a great part of the
French army perished from the cold ; the remainder returned to
France. Very likely if he had been permitted to land in England
Jie would have been just as bad to us, but it was supposed if he had
landed in Devonshire that he and all his great army would have been
taken, as General Simcoe had thousands of troops all well trained
and fit for battle; but Devonshire was the strongest part of the king-
dom. It is supposed if Bonaparte had landed at Tor Bay that he
would never have got as far as Exeter. But now came the glorious
news of a great naval victory gained by Lord Nelson at Trafalgar.
This glorious news came to Wolford in the evening; then General
Simcoe sent to Captain Pierce to take the Luppitt Artillery, with
their cannon, to the end of St. Cyres Hill, and there to fire a salute ;
it was then eight o'clock in the evening. The people of Honiton were
rather alarmed at hearing the cannon so very near them ; the guns
were heard very plainly at Axminster and many parts of Devonshire.
General Simcoe gave a very grand dinner party; all the chief
gentry of the neighbourhood were present; the great new room (the.
saloon on the south-west side of the house) was fitted up beauti-
fully more than five hundred lamps were lighted up in the room.
The crown and " G.R." were formed with lamps, as well as many
other devices. The dinner table was sixty feet long. The great room
looked remarkably grand, and a grand party was there; nearly fifty
carriages were in the front park. The front of the house looked very,
grand. The windows were all illuminated, a light in every square of
glass. The cannons were fired in the front -park, and fireworks lei;
off. There was a large bonfire at the Cleve Farm (the -plantation
above Wolford), another at Ben Point (the plantation to -the right
of Wolford), and one on Buckerall Knap, which were all lighted after
dinner was over. A grand ball took place in the evening, and all
passed off with great joy. ' After this the party took their leave. " The
ftext morning all were very busy clearing up and preparing for an4
other ball, which' was to be the young ladies' party, and to take place
very soon. ' The beautiful green at the front of the house was like a
ploughed field from the carriages going over it to turn at the front
door. The ladies' ball took place very soon after this, and was very-
grand. The house was again illuminated, fireworks let off, the cannon
fired in the front park and bonfires as before.
Soon after this second ball General Simcoe "had another very amus-
ing thing done in the great new room. . It was a fair. There were all
sorts of things going on, some crying out "Moore's Almanacks,",
411
DIAEY OF MES. SIMCOE
" Sheet Almanack," some crying " nuts," and crying " crack away,
toss or buy." All these things General Simcoe had done by way of
rejoicing for Lord Nelson's great victory at the battle of Trafalgar.
Soon after this General Simcoe was appointed Commander-in
Chief of the British Forces in India, and had it pleased God that he
should go very likely I should have been one of the party to go with
him to the East Indies, for I was told by Mr. Morgan, the butler,
that if I should like to go I was to ask my parents if they were willing
to let me, and all were agreeable. Great preparations were going
on at Wolford Lodge for the voyage, and large boxes made; but we
see what man appointeth God disappointeth. If General Simcoe
had lived and gone to India, and if it had pleased the Lord for him
to have returned home again safe, he would have been a very great
person in the world. But before his departure to India he was
directed by Government to go to Lisbon, for the purpose of render-
ing all the assistance he could against the French in that country;
but on the voyage to Lisbon General Simcoe was taken alarmingly
ill, and on his arrival there he was advised to return to England again,
which he did, and put into Tor Bay, and then sent to Topsham. I
have heard that the sudden illness of General Simcoe was supposed
to have been caused by the ship he was on board having been newly
painted. I remember one of the servants who went with General
Simcoe said that the paint was the cause of his illness, the ship having
been newly painted ; and we know paint is slow poison, and we might
almost as well eat it as be always smelling it. Mrs. Simcoe was as
much afraid of paint as she was of a plague.
General Simcoe was taken to Archdeacon Moore's house in the
Cathedral Close of Exeter, where he soon breathed his last. The
news soon reached Wolford, and I remember very well that I was
sent very early in the morning, long before daylight, to Mrs. Elliot's
at Egland, with a letter for Mrs. Elliot, as Miss Harriet and Miss
Caroline Simcoe were staying there. When I arrived Miss Harriet
came to her bedroom window and asked me if I had come from Wol-
ford, and if I had heard how General Simcoe was. I told her I was
in hopes he was a great deal better. Great preparations were made
at Wolford for the funeral.
NOTE. Bailey then refers to the mural monument by Flaxman,
erected in the Cathedral, Exeter, England, to the memory of General
Simcoe and his son Francis Gwillim, who was killed at Badajoz and
buried on the field of battle. Then he gives the inscriptions on the
six niches of one of the outer walls of the private chapel at Wolford,
where General Simcoe, his widow and children, except Francis and
the first Katherine, are buried. Those who died and are buried away
from Wolford are remembered in these inscriptions.
He then resumes his narrative:
Now look and see what is inscribed on those six headstones. Just
look at General Simcoe's, what we see on it. "As for me and my
412
BAILEY ON THE SIMCOE CHILDREN
house we will serve the Lord." What a blessing it is for those who
dwell in such a house as this to serve the Lord. It is quite different
to those who dwell in such a house as that of which we read in
Proverbs iii., 33 : " The curse of the Lord is in the house of the
wicked." And again, just see the words on Mrs. Simcoe's headstone :
"The heart of her husband doth safely trust in her; her children
arise up and call her blessed," Proverbs xxi., 11, 28. What a blessing
for a husband to get such a wife, and what a blessing for children to
have such a mother. From the tenth to the thirty-first verses of that
chapter there is not one but is suitable to Mrs. Simcoe.
The next, Mr. Francis Simcoe. What is there more that is re-
quired in a soldier than what we see on his headstone good courage
in battle. We know that is the chief work of a soldier in fighting.
Now the next, Miss Henrietta Simcoe. " My peace I give unto
you." The peace of God, you know, passeth all understanding. We
make our peace with God through Jesus Christ. There is no peace
to the wicked; it is only for the righteous.
Now next to the infant children, Miss Katherine and Mr. John
Simcoe. Those infants, we may feel assured, are in heaven, for
Christ sayeth in St. Mark x., 14 : " For of such is the Kingdom of
God." All their troubles were at an end soon after they began. The
Lord gave them, and the Lord took them again to Himself.
Now next. Miss Charlotte Simcoe, what we see on her headstone:
" Be ye steadfast." Like the church which is built on the rock, the
gates of hell shall not prevail against it. And I do believe that Miss
Charlotte Simcoe was a steadfast member of this church, so we may
feel assured that all her labours were not in vain in the Lord. We
know that all those who were hired in the Lord's vineyard received
what was due to them.
After the death of General Simcoe the establishment at Wolford
was very much lessened. Only seven servants remained. I was one
of the seven, and was to be in the stables as usual, and I had the care
of General Simcoe's charger, a favourite horse, and four beautiful
?onies which Mr. Francis and Mr. Henry A. Simcoe often rode, and
went, with them. They were beautiful ponies, two of them
black and two of them grey; they went like the wind.
I went to service to General Simcoe at the latter end of 1802, and
remained with him until his death. Then I remained with Mrs.
Simcoe two years; then I left, and was away nine years, and in that
time I was in the four quarters of the world. I was in the Baltic
Sea, Gulf of Finland, West Indies, South America, East Indies,
China, Philippine Islands, Cape of Good Hope and the Mediterranean.
I returned in 1816, and went again into Mrs. Simcoe's service, and
remained with her until her death, thirty-two years afterwards; then
I left.
Now during the last thirty-two years of my service with Mrs.
Simcoe I never once knew her to go to any place of amusement, such
as balls, plays or any such things; but very often to missionary meet-
413
DIARY OF MRS. SIMCOE
ings, Bible meetings, Jews' meetings or such places as these, where
good is to be done. She was always ready in a good cause with hand
and heart ready to support it, ready to relieve the poor and dis-
tressed, a soldier or sailor.
It was General Simcoe's intention for his two sons, Mr. Francis
Simcoe and Mr. Henry A. Simcoe, both to be in His Majesty's
service Mr. F. Simcoe to be in the army, and Mr. H. A. Simcoe to
be in the navy; but as Mr. Francis Simcoe was killed in the trench
at the siege of Badajoz in 1812, in the twenty-first year of his age,
lie being the heir and just of age and a large property coming to him>
so by his death the heirship fell to the next son, Mr. H. A. Simcoe.
As Mr. F. G. Simcoe was killed in battle, Mrs. Simcoe would not
consent to Mr. H. A. Simcoe, the only son and heir, going into the
navy, so he became a minister of the Gospel. Mrs. Simcoe lived to that
wonderful age that she saw her children's children, even four genera-;
tions, which very few are permitted to do.
414
CHAPTER XXXI.
INCIDENT AND COMMENT.
As has been stated, John Bailey divided his paper on the Simcoe
family into two parts, covering the period 1802-50. The first part
he devoted mainly to the family life at Wolford from 1802 until
1808. The second part, which is full of incident and comment down
to the passing of Mrs. Simcoe in 1850, he calls " The Second Edition
of the Life of General and Mrs. Simcoe."
Now to proceed with the lives of General and Mrs. Simcoe. By
the help of the Lord I hope to do it, for without the Lord we
can do nothing, and with Him we can do all things.
Now to speak of the greatness and usefulness of General Simcoe
is far beyond my power. I can only mention what I saw in my three
years' service with him. Now of Mrs. Simcoe's life I can give more
particulars. First, I shall mention what I have seen done by General
and Mrs. Simcoe in the parish of Dunkeswell, by planting and build-
ing. Just view all the trees round Wolford, the number of planta-
tions; there is the Beach Plantation, the Roughborough, the Oak.
This last was sown with acorns in my remembrance, and now at this
time has come to fine timber. See the Blackdown and Roughgrey
Plantations near Wolford, the higher and lower sand walks. All
these were planned and planted by 'General Simcoe and Mr. John
Scadding. The Chase, a plantation on the east side of the house at
Wolford, was also sown with acorns, and is at this time very fine
timber. There are also the Cleeve and St. Gyres Plantations. How
many thousands of trees have been lately cut down. Look at the last
sale paper, how many trees were advertised for sale in it. Ask Mr.
Burrows, the estate bailiff, how many thousands of trees he has sold
in the sixteen years that he has been at Wolford, and also the great
quantity of wood. All these trees were planted by General Simcoe.
And again, how much building there has been, how many houses have
been built in the parish of Dunkeswell by General and Mrs. Simcoe. I
will mention them Grange Farms, barns, linhays (a Devonshire
name for outhouses) and stables were all destroyed by fire and rebuilt
by General Simcoe; Wolford itself greatly altered and enlarged, and a
chapel built; Wolford Cottage; the Battery on St. Cyres Hill; the
south aisle of Dunkeswell Church built and seated by Mrs. Simcoe;
West Hill Farm, barns and stables; East Hill Farm, barns and stables
also built by Mrs. Simcoe; Ball Nap Cottage, built by Miss Ann
Simcoe; Southay Farm, barns and stables, built by Mrs. Simcoe;
Blackdown House, coach house and stables, built by Mrs. and the
Misses Simcoe ; W. Selway's, John Tuck's, William Dimond's cottage?,
415
DIAEY OF MRS. SIMCOE
built by Mrs. Simcoe; Parish Clerk Selway's, John Gosling's houses,
built by General Simcoe ; William Row's, William Carter's and James
Cole's cottages, formerly a farmhouse, made into three cottages by
Mrs. Simcoe; the parish house, built by General Simcoe and given
by him for the poor, but now bought from the parish and made into
three cottages by Mrs. Simcoe; Roughgrey Farmhouse, barn and
stables, built by General Simcoe; John Hitchcock's house and home-
stead, built by Mrs. Simcoe; Dunkeswell Abbey School and school
house, built by Miss Caroline Simcoe ; Southay Farmhouse, barns and
stables destroyed by fire and rebuilt by Mrs. Simcoe; Blackdown
House, destroyed by fire and rebuilt by Mrs. Simcoe; Richard
Marshall's cottage, leasehold to Mrs. Simcoe; Levi Richard's cottage,
leasehold to Mrs. Simcoe; Henry Somerset's and John Russell's cot-
tages and blacksmith's shop, leasehold to Mrs. Simcoe; Sarah Cox's
cottage, leasehold to Mrs. Simcoe; and besides all the buildings and
planting, think of the new roads and hedges. Most likely, if General
Sijucoe had not come into the parish, none of this would "have been
done. How thankful we should be to the Lord for permitting such
a person to come amongst us. Was it by chance? No, there is no
chance work with the Lord; it is with Him yea and amen. When
the man was going to Jericho and fell among thieves which wounded
him and left him half dead, it is said by chance there came down
a certain priest that way, and when he saw him he passed by on the
other side. What a thing for a priest to pass ! You would think he
would have been the first to help the poor, suffering man. No, he
was by chance. He was not ordained to assist him. It was the good
Samaritan the Lord ordained. It was not by chance. Most likely
this poor, suffering man was a good man; so the Lord sends a good
man to help him. Most likely he was a chosen man to the Lord.
Like Moses, we know he was chosen. See how wonderfully he was
nursed by Pbaraoh's daughter ; if she had not come down to the river
to wash herself she would not have seen the child; but it does not
say she came down by chance. There was no chance work, it was
by the power of God. Again, in the 21st chapter of Genesis, from
the 12th to the 21st verse, we see no chance work in the deliverance
of Joseph from his brethren. Read the last thirteen chapters of
Genesis and see if there is a word about chance. With God all things
are done by word and power. God said, " Let there be light," and
there was light. By the word of the Lord the heavens and the earth
were made ; not one thing came by chance.
And was it by chance that General and Mrs. Simcoe came into
the parish of Dunkeswell ? No, the Lord ordained it to be so. How
many parts of the Scripture have been fulfilled by their coming. See 1
by the Abbey how the Scripture was fulfilled Isaiah Ixi. : 3, 4, and
many other places in the Bible. Again, how many Scriptures are
fulfilled by Wolford ? Isaiah xli.: 19, 20, where it is said, "I will
plant in the wilderness the cedar, the shittah tree, and the myrtle,
and the oil tree. I will set in the desert the fir tree, and the pine,
416
DUtfKESWELL ABBEY CHURCH
and the box tree together. That they may see and know and consider
and understand together that the hand of the Lord hath done this,
and the Holy One of Israel hath created it." And again, in the 55th
chapter of Isaiah, verses 12, 13, " For ye shall go out with joy and be
led forth with peace; the mountains and the hills shall break forth
before you into singing, and all the trees of the field shall clap their
hands. Instead of the thorn shall come up the fir tree, and it shall
be to the Lord for a name, for an everlasting sign that shall not be
cut off?" What can be plainer of the Scriptures being fulfilled?
And also how plainly the Scriptures were fulfilled in the Abbey. Of
how many different places we see the Lord said, " They shall build
the old wastes, they shall raise up the former desolations, and they
shall repair the waste cities, the desolations of many generations."
We know that the Abbey was formerly a very large place, and who
can tell if it will not become a large place again? We cannot tell
what the Lord may do; the same hand that fed 5,000 people with
five barley loaves and two small fishes can make Dunkeswell Abbey
become a very large place. We can see that it was so formerly by
the old buildings, and why not become so again? How did Chelten-
ham become a large place ? It was only by guidance of pigeons ; those
birds were often seen to come to a spring of water. Pigeons are very
fond of salt, so for that reason they flocked there. The water was
examined and found to be very good mineral water, so people came
from all parts to drink it, and found much benefit ; so Cheltenham is
now become one of the grandest and most fashionable places in Eng-
land. And who can tell if the pigeons may not come and find one of
these springs of water at Dunkeswell Abbey? There is a very good
beginning made at the Abbey, a handsome church and schoolroom
built. We know it was not General Simcoe who built them, but he
made the first beginning. He purchased the Abbey. The temple at
Jerusalem was not built by King David, but he made the preparations
for the work, but his son was to build it. Now it is very likely that
if General Simcoe had not come into the parish of Dunkeswell there
would not have been a.ny more church room than there was before he
came; but as there were so many houses built by General and Mrs.
Simcoe, the church was greatly enlarged, and a new tower built.
Before the church was enlarged the establishment at Wolford Lodge
when General Simcoe was living there took nearly half the room in
the church; but the family was very often away, particularly in the
summer.
At this time I had a great deal of riding about ; very often I had
to go to Honiton two or three times in a day, but there were four fine
little ponies that would go like the wind, and when the family was
at Budleigh Salterton (on the south Devon coast, nine miles from
Wolford), which was generally for two or three months during the
summer, then I was frequently sent there, sometimes two or three
times in a week. I often set off from Wolford at three o'clock in the
morning, and was down there before anyone was up in the house;
27 "" 417
DIARY OF MES. SIMCOE
and I generally had a great many things to take there. General
Simcoe would ask me how I could be there so early from such a long
distance. I was generally back at Wolford by three o'clock in the
afternoon, a 40-mile ride.
Soon after this I took a journey with M. de Luc, a French gentle-
man who was a visitor at Wolford. But before I say anything about
M. de Luc I will endeavour to give a short account of my first go